Author |
Message |
Kevin_stevens
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 08:09 pm: |
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Ok, good news is a search on "resistor" pops up all sorts of useful information on de-noiding your bike. However, I've already done that. I've also de-mirrored my CR, which of course also means I've de-signaled the front. I got some very nice LEDs to replace, but I get the intermittent fast-flash, and I'd like to ballast them out or replace the flasher relay with a timed one. So, nobody seems to have a flasher relay for the 1125s... next step, resistors. I couldn't find any information, so I kind of did a guesstimate using a standard 1156 incandescent bulb specs. That pointed me to a 6 ohm resistor needed at the spec 12.6 volts to emulate the bulb, which seemed to fit in/around the value of the ones available on eBay for Japanese bikes. Stopped at Frys, got a 6ohm 25watt resistor. Unplugged the new signals, rear fast flashes. Plugged in the resistor, it gets nice and warm so it's "resisting", but flash rate wasn't slowed at all. That kind of surprised me, even if the value wasn't exact I thought it would be in the ballpark and I'd get a response that I could adjust from. Now I'm back to "stuck". Suggestions? KeS |
J_copeland
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 08:23 pm: |
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http://www.customled.com/products/flasher_relay/fl asher_relay.htm Not sure,but check this out. |
Kevin_stevens
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 08:36 pm: |
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If someone could describe where the flasher relay is located in the 1125, I'd already have used one. Unfortunately, just buying a relay is rarely successful, you have to actually plug it into the wiring harness. KeS |
Fmaxwell
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 08:37 pm: |
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Kevin, Provide 12V to the mirror turn signals and measure the current going into them. +12V ----(ammeter) ------ (signal) ------ GND resistance = voltage/current Here's a great online Ohm's Law calculator: http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp That tells you the ESR (equivalent series resistance) of the stock turn signals. Now do the same thing with the new ones. You will probably see a higher resistance. Therefore, you need a resistor in parallel with the new signals to bring the resistance down (lower resistance = higher current). And here's how you determine resistance in parallel:
You can avoid the pain of doing the math by just plugging in the numbers for the desired total (ESR measured for original signals) and the ESR measured for the new signals here: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm Hope that helps. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 08:49 pm: |
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American Sport Bike has a flasher that works for the LEDs. Plug it in and forget about it. |
Kevin_stevens
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 09:26 pm: |
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I know how to do the math, I guess I need the measurement off the originals. I'll pursue that, was hoping someone knew it. Froggy - No, they don't. Sorry to be brusque, but people keep referring me to American Sport Bike to a product that specifically says it is for the XBs and NOT for the 1125s. KeS |
Fmaxwell
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 09:33 pm: |
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"I know how to do the math..." No offense intended. Maybe it will help someone who does not. |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 10:11 pm: |
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The flasher we sell is not used on the 1125..the flash rate function is controlled from the instrument cluster on the 1125 series bike, not a separate flasher. Al |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 10:23 pm: |
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First time I have heard it didn't work. Thanks for clearing that up. |
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