| Author | Message | ||
     07xb12ss |
ive had a CR for over a year and just bought a R, i just went to the dealer and bought some oil filters and they were $20 a pop, if i recall correctly they used to be $16.... am i wrong? or did harley jack up the prices? not home to check my receipts so i thought i would ask | ||
| Danxb9r |
Wouldn't suprise me they need to make up for the bottom line some how with the 1125's going so cheap. We need an aftermarket company to start making these. $20 bux is nuts! | ||
| 1324 |
Bought mine for $20 yesterday, too. They wouldn't budge on the "they used to be $16, is this the best you can do?" line. Not worth the hassle for $4, but I'll probably buy a bunch the next time I order online. | ||
| Fmaxwell |
If you change your oil at 2000 mile intervals, then that works out to one cent per mile. I'd like to see an aftermarket company offer one because it would be likely to be superior in filtering as well as cheaper. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I wonder if they're common to any other Rotax engines? This K&N for an Rotax-engined Aprilia looks similar. O.D. is correct, but it's about 3/4" too short: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod= KN-152 | ||
| 1324 |
That would be great if an aftermarket filter exists. I'd be amazed if Rotax had their own built for this engine. I wish Purolator or Wix had a cross reference page on their sites... Might be worth a few phone calls to see if we can save a few bucks and possibly get something for many years down the road with greater availability. | ||
| 46champ |
Just went and looked on the American sport bike site Al just has the OEM for $20 guess nothing else is out their yet. | ||
| Chadhargis |
If it takes the same filter as a Aprilia, then I'm better you could get it from Amsoil. | ||
| Hughlysses |
K&N actually has a listing for it, but it's wrong. The P/N they list is the same as the XB filter. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Oh man! $20 every 12400 miles is terribly brutal. Expensive for an oil filter? Sure. Going to matter in the long run? Not really. If you kept the bike for 100k miles you would need 8 oil filters. That is $160. ac | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Prices on HD products have gone thu the roof, i write the crash est at the dealership, some sheet metal parts have nearly doubled reacently. i was amazed when i found out a rear turn signal for a rocker(ugly pos) is over $200! when i first started working on HD's i was amazed how cheap parts were compared to jap parts i had been buying,i think those days are over. too bad my pay won't keep pace | ||
| Avc8130 |
They need to raise piece part price so more bikes get insurance totaled so the owners have to buy NEW bikes off the packed showroom floors. ac | ||
| 1324 |
I contacted Purolator over the weekend to see if they had a cross reference in their system based on dimensions and the Rotax numbers. No dice. They mentioned they'd send the request to their engineering department...OE for now it seems. | ||
| Cafefun |
20 bucks is really high for an oil filter IMO I thought my kawasaki was bad at 13. It was always my understanding Buell parts where cheap but that's not what I;m seeing | ||
| Petereid |
Why would anyone change their oil but leave in a dirty filter? I was surprised to see that in the manual. | ||
| Ron_luning |
If you change you're oil filter every 12.4K miles, you're engine will likely not make 100K miles without problems (if it makes it at all). Some people that have owned their bikes for long enough to change the oil have pulled the filter out after 3K miles to find collapsed fins and a high density of shit in the filter. | ||
| Avc8130 |
If the oil filter has capacity to handle 12400 miles worth of wear particles and contamination changing it earlier would simply be spending more money. This is becoming more and more common. ac | ||
| Avc8130 |
Ron, Why would Buell specify a change interval that does not provide decent service life? Especially on an engine that they provide a 2 year UNLIMITED mileage warranty on? With this warranty it would behoove them to tell you to change the oil AND filter every 2k miles if it would reduce warranty claims. ac | ||
| Fmaxwell |
Why would anyone change their oil but leave in a dirty filter? I was surprised to see that in the manual. Obviously there is an optimum point to change any oil filter, but a filter generally flows best when it's new and filters best after it has collected some detritus from the oil. As filters clog, they size of the particles that can pass through them decreases. I can't speak to the design of the Buell filters, but changing filters too often can actually increase the average size and total number of particles suspended in the oil. Please note that I am not taking any position on whether the factory service interval is optimal -- I really don't know. | ||
| 1324 |
Buell, like other manufacturers (ahem, Ducati), try to balance a proper maintenance schedule with low maintenance costs. The more oil changes required, the higher the cost to own and operate. For many motorcyclists, the machine is a toy. Most would rather spend as little as possible. I'd put money on the line that someone at Buell/Rotax did some fancy mathematics to determine the schedule. Of course, none of us on this thread really know how it was determined. Speaking only for myself, I change the oil and filter on my bikes each spring - regardless of how many winter miles I've put on. Although I may not ride the full 12.4k miles, I'll still change the filter next spring. Of course, this is my opinion only so YMMV. Filters do filter better when they are 'clogged'. On an air filter, that is fine since you'll only limit air intake. On an oil filter, I'd personally prefer a minimal pressure drop (no clogging) to maintain optimal oil flow across the filter. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Now, wouldn't it make more sense to change it every winter? That way you get the combustion contaminants out for when you plan on storing the bike longest? ac | ||
| Fmaxwell |
Buell, like other manufacturers (ahem, Ducati), try to balance a proper maintenance schedule with low maintenance costs. The more oil changes required, the higher the cost to own and operate. What most manufacturers focus on is the service interval, because that's what riders focus on, not whether a 6K mile service was $25 more or less. Most owners are going to take the bike to the dealer and pay a couple of hundred dollars for routine, scheduled maintenance. Speaking only for myself, I change the oil and filter on my bikes each spring - regardless of how many winter miles I've put on. Change that to a fall schedule. One of the reasons for changing the oil at the end of the riding season is so that combustion byproducts in the oil, like sulphuric acid, can't etch the crankshaft journals, bearings, etc. during storage. On an oil filter, I'd personally prefer a minimal pressure drop (no clogging) to maintain optimal oil flow across the filter. I don't know if better filtration and less flow is preferable to worse filtration and more flow in this application. It is science and engineering and lacking the test data, not an area where I'm comfortable recommending that one adhere to a different maintenance schedule than that recommended. | ||
| Ron_luning |
Maybe someone that claims a dirty filter performs better can explain the source of that information. Do the smaller openings that capture the smaller particles not exist until the large openings have been filled? Common sense suggests that a brand new filter has the maximum ability to trap particles, and that this capability cannot increase over time as the filter accumulates particles. It would be interesting if someone can provide a reliable reference that says otherwise, or can at least explain it in their own words to disprove intuition. | ||
| Fmaxwell |
Do the smaller openings that capture the smaller particles not exist until the large openings have been filled? Maybe your small particles aren't as clever as mine, but on my bike, small particles figure out how to go through larger openings in a new filter. Think of it this way: Suppose you have a bag with a bunch of random-shape holes that are just over 1/2" in their biggest dimension. You pour in a bunch of BBs. They almost all fall through. Now you pour in a bunch of half-inch marbles. They don't get through. Now pour the BBs in again. Many of them are trapped. Now pour a gallon of water into the bag. Now go put some dry shoes and socks on. Clearer? (Message edited by fmaxwell on October 27, 2009) | ||
| Moosestang |
There has to be a motor that uses the same size filter. Rotax isn't making filters. There are cars that use this same type of filter, just need to find one that fits. | ||
| Ron_luning |
Fmaxwell, thanks. I'll have to look more into this. | ||
| Avc8130 |
This sure seems like a lot of work to save $5. ac | ||
| Dirty_john |
I change oil and filters every 1500 miles, over here in uk the oil filter is about £10, thats about 17 dollars at the current rate, I intend to e:mail the Rotax factory direct and see if one of their wholesalers in Europe can sell me about 20 filters | ||
| Rencrn8 |
I am surprised no one has mentioned this. I have 6 on order from my local rep. http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid= 2529 | ||
| Sofauxboho |
Huh! Great info Rencrn8. If that information is correct, then it's the same filter used on the Rotax twin Can-Am Spyder and some current Aprillia RSVR and releated bikes. (See more info in first link below.) http://www.af1racing.com/store/scripts/prodView.as p?idproduct=7770 Looks like they can be had for $25 shipped for two, or $41.50 shipped for 4. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ewItem&item=380171982782 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ewItem&item=150383739086 I don't have any of my OEM filters with me at work, but those pics look similar to what I remember. Can anyone confirm? Personally, I think I'll spend the extra $10 every year or so and maintain a relationship with my local dealer, but it's nice to have the mystery solved and have options / backup. |
