Author |
Message |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 12:08 pm: |
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I saw an 08R with the CR high bars on it. Who else has done this? What is needed for this mod? I'd like to be able to switch between stock and high for track/trips. |
Ridenusa4l
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 12:25 pm: |
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pm teach Jake |
Tbenson
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 01:23 pm: |
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Teach at Western Reserve in Mentor, OH. |
Toona
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 01:26 pm: |
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This is an email reply I got from Jim/Teach asking him the same question: Basically, what we recommend now is to change over everything to he CR set-up. You would need the acc bars, upper triple clamp, handlebar clamp, acc brake and clutch line, CR ignition switch, gas cap, seat lock (if you don't want to have two sets of keys), and you have to extend the wiring to the handlebar switches. I modified the CR top triple to keep the ignition switch in the same location as the R, but since you are machining into the triple clamp I would not suggest this. (Message edited by Toona on October 27, 2009) |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 01:48 pm: |
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I saw Teach's bike. It looks very nice. He also showed me the LSL conversion. Functionally it's the same, but didn't look quite as nice IMO. |
Aeholton
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 03:18 pm: |
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Can't understand why no one as made some bars like the Helibars in the picture below. I sent an email to Precision Engineering to see if this is do-able. I've actually considered buying spare handle bars and taking them to a machine shop to have them cut and then a piece of stainless plate material welded to the 2 pieces to raise them up. An inch up and an inch back would probably be ideal.
(Message edited by aeholton on October 27, 2009) |
Whynot
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 06:31 pm: |
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Yes! |
Toona
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 07:39 pm: |
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Aww geeez....Now you got me thinkin....... That is SOOOO DOABLE... Plus, you won't get into having to change the ign/fork lock tumbler. Depending on how much of an offset, you might not have to change throttle cables or front brake line. It could be done with a solid rod. Is the OEM clip on diameter 7/8"? I'll know tomorrow It was mentioned elsewhere that the heated grip needs to have 2 holes drilled to mount the left grip, does the offset clip on have to be hollow for the heated grips or can it be solid? I guess the offset clip on would have to have at least a 1"-2" deep recess on the end for bar end mirror mounting. I'm thinking solid rod = same as bar end weights.... |
Aeholton
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:30 pm: |
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I wouldn't mind if I had to purchase CR brake line, clutch line and throttle cables. Someone just provide the bars! Part #'s for the high bar version: H1531.1AT Front brake line N0103.1AT Clutch line N0307.1AT Throttle cable N0308.1AT Throttle cable (can't remember which is push and which is pull, but you would need both) |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:37 pm: |
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Are those 2009 or 2010 part numbers? |
Aeholton
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:41 pm: |
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Those are the individual part #'s from the 09 high bar kit. So...they should be the 2010 part #'s. |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:45 pm: |
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Apparently the 2010 throttle cables may be different. ac |
Aeholton
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:49 pm: |
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I just thought the 2010 throttle cables were the longer type. Anyway, this is where I got the part #'s: http://www.anti-spam.org/1125CR%20Handlebars.pdf |
Bettybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:52 pm: |
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I bought the Convertibar kit http://www.convertibars.com and they work great on my 1125. I rerouted the throttle cables (I bought some from the CR high bar kit but didn't use them) installed a longer brake hose from Speigler and rerouted the clutch hose. |
Aeholton
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:57 pm: |
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Bettybuell could you post a picture? Just thought if someone made the bars like the picture of the helibars above, it would be a much cleaner solution. |
Srlorg
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 09:15 pm: |
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I just finished taking a CR top tree and measuring it with my cmm and cnc milling it to accept an ignition holder that will allow use of the ignition switch from the r. I took pictures and will post later tonight. It wasnt bad except for splicing an extra 4" on all the wires. The cr high bars fit perfectly and do not interfere with the r fairing. Very satisfied with the result. Would have been nice to have engineering drawings of the top tree but I now have the dimensions if anyone wants to try it. |
Fmaxwell
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 09:48 pm: |
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Regarding the '09 high bars vs. the '10 high bars, check my thread here, with pictures, showing the cable routing differences and explaining the cable differences: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/507789.html?1256634085 Short version: The '09 cables have a tight bend where they enter the throttle assembly, which I believe leads to a stiffer-than-desirable throttle action (too much friction). Make sure you KNOW what cables you want and the routing before buying anything. |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 09:51 pm: |
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Fmaxwell, Your thread is the reason I keep asking for 2010 part numbers! ac |
Srlorg
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 12:36 am: |
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Heres some pics of the CR top tree modification to my 08 1125r. First, I machined a block of aluminum with two posts the diameter and spacing of the forks. They are 2.5" high. This makes it a lot easier to hold the part. Then I measured the R tree with my CMM and gathered all the dimensional information. Then I wrote a program to cut the old ignition mount off of the CR tree, drill and tap the right ignition switch mount hole and machine the two bungs off. Then I made the ignition mount with a pocket that fits with a press fit into the rectangular space made by removing the CR tree ignition mount as well as the recess in the top of the CR tree. This part also has the left tapped hole for the ignition mount. I also drilled three holes and tapped for 10/24 to attach the key mount into the triple tree. The alu plate I used for this was anodized so I used a grainer for the top and bottom finish and tried to match it on the edges with a flap wheel. Then splicing all the wires and new cables and denoiding. You could use the R top tree and make some handlebar risers but this seemed like more fun since its asymmetrical. If anyone wants to do it this way I can send a cad file with all the critical dims.
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Avc8130
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 08:15 am: |
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WOW! Great job. You should sell that service (since you already have the programs and a NICE fixture). You certainly went above and beyond "1-piece" efforts. ac |
Whynot
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 10:14 am: |
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I'd be interested in the off-set clipons per aeholton's and toona's posts. Seems the simplest and helps keep the "R" in 1125R. Just a rise of 3/4" or 1" would do it for me (I had a Ducati 907 with 3/4" risers -- made all the diff.) Alternately, I might just pull 3/4" of padding out of the seat, "dished' effect like a Sargent seat. One advantage obviously of going to the CR triple clamp is then you can experiment with bars -- clubmans, flat bars, cafe, etc., different height and sweep and colors for that matter. |
Aeholton
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 10:31 am: |
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Whynot, I'm with you. Don't mind changing cables if needed, but would like to stick with the stock triple clamp. |
Whynot
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 11:33 am: |
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Aeholton, let us know what you hear from Precision, then maybe we could start a thread asking for interest (like the Woodcraft rearset thread). Toona, same goes for you! Let us know if you think you might tool up for this. I was also thinking about Gen-Mar, but it looks like they do mostly spacers and extensions, not whole bars. -Kurt |
Srlorg
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 11:52 am: |
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I did a mod to my XB9r handlebars that involved machining two .375 stainless plates and shrink fitting and rewelding the stock bars into them. Pretty simple. Thought about doing it for the 1125 but didnt want to repeat. I also have the cad file for this mod somewhere.
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Aeholton
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 01:46 pm: |
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That is quite a step up and back. I'm thinking more like only about an inch, but the same idea. |
Aeholton
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:10 pm: |
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Called added a set of handlebars to my seat pin order at American Sport Bike. I guess I will give modifying a shot. Haven't heard anything back since I emailed Precision Engineering. |
Whynot
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:21 pm: |
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I was also thinking of "dog bone" risers (speaking of H-D). Could work with pinch bolts, but welded would be better, like Srlorg's custom XB9r risers. |
Teach
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 05:51 pm: |
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I did this last fall. You have several options. You can use the CR Triple clamp as is and use the stock CR ignition switch location. The ignition switch will be angled under the fairing. You will end up with two sets of keys, one for ignition and the other for the gas cap and the pillion seat cover. On my bike, I modified the stock CR triple clamp to keep the ignition switch close to the stock location. You can also use LSL kit for the Firebolt. We use that one at our dealership. (Message edited by teach on October 28, 2009) |
Vosnick52
| Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 11:07 pm: |
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I just received my high bar kit for the CR. Now I have to find time to put it on. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 10:59 pm: |
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You can also go this route: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/354781.html Plus you get adjustability in many directions that switching bars will not give you. |
Big_mike
| Posted on Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 11:40 am: |
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I like the offset bars, although wondering why no more offset than what is pictured? These are a big compromise for me...not as value added as I would like to see more offset than that. Maybe contoured with the upper tree would help the offset distance? Anyone else have the same idea or thought? |