| Author | Message | ||
     Marcodesade |
Could I get an armchair diagnosis before I send my bike to the shop? I tried searching but there were SOOOOO many threads and the several I looked at said nothing of symptoms. I should start by saying my bike is an 08 (June, IIRC) and has always displayed the low-battery light within a few seconds of hitting the kill switch. Getting the 09 cluster did nothing to help. Other than that, though, I haven't had any recent problems with the charging system. However, a few days ago, I turned the key on, hit the ignition, and went to start it. Nothing happened --- dead silence. I have to be honest, at the time I thought maybe I hit the starter before the "boot-up" sequence was finished; I'm still not sure. But I turned the key off, turned it back on, and just for a moment the cluster read "SYSTEM VOLTAGE" or something close to that. It went away in a second or two and the bike started right up. Then, a day or two later, I started it up on a cold (~55 F) morning and, although it fired right up, the cluster and headlights went completely dark for maybe two seconds (much longer than the usual "only while it cranks" wait for the headlights). Once the bike warmed up, I saw that the AVERAGE MPG number had reset, which I took to mean that power to the cluster had indeed been interrupted. Finally, at the very end of my commute home from work today --- 15 miles on the freeway with the first half lane-splitting between 20 and 40 MPH and the last half running (*cough*) not less than the speed limit --- the battery light came on as I exited the freeway. It stayed on while I waited for the light to turn green, disappeared under acceleration, and returned anytime I held the clutch in for more than a second or otherwise ran at idle. When I got home Diagnostic Mode showed a code of U0001 COMM ERROR and a battery voltage of just 10.5 (normal for my bike is in the neighborhood of 12.4). Does this sound like the stator or something else? | ||
| Dnlink |
I had a similar problem with the system voltage display and it turned out to be a loose battery clamp. | ||
| Crogers72 |
That voltage seems low (assuming the gauge is reading correctly). Normal for mine is anywhere from 13 to 14.4 V while riding. Sounds like it could be a regulator or stator. I'd take it to the dealer and have them check the charging system. I just priced the regulator the other day and I think it retails for around $135 - stator was something ridiculous (like over $700!!!). | ||
| Parrick |
When my stator went out there was nothing intermittent about it. One minute good and then next minute just running on battery. That oddball electrical stuff seems to usually be a ground issue. I would check all the ground locations and clean the contacts up. That's just a thought based on other posts I have read here and other automotive experience. I have no experience with grounding issues with the 1125 and I don't know where the grounding locations are. | ||
| Marcodesade |
Thanks for all the help guys. The bike spent the night on the battery tender per instructions from the shop --- appparently the charging test requires a full charge. I'm taking it in today. Just out of curiosity, what are the usual symptoms of a failed stator? And *idiot alert* what exactly IS a stator? I have to admit I'd never even seen the word until I joined the forum here. | ||
| Zac4mac |
An Alternator has two parts - A ROTOR that rotates, a mass of metal with magnets glued to it. The STATOR is the Stationary part and is a mile or two of wire wrapped in coils. Physics - a conductor moving thru a magnetic field will induce electron flow... <generalization> An alternator puts out a steady voltage with current increasing with rpm. A generator puts out a steady current with voltage increasing with rpm. Zack | ||
| Ccryder |
1) Check battery bolts. Make sure they are clamping the leads. 2) Check ground cable under the seat 3) Check positive cable at starter relay. 4) Get a battery tender and give it 24hrs. What other accy are you running? That can make all the difference in the world. Had one 1125r rider that added 55w hi and low beam bulbs and ran the battery down REAL quick, when he didn't pop the fuse! | ||
| Parrick |
Honestly, I forget what exactly caught my attention when the stator failed. It was either a battery light or message on the cluster or combination of the two. I believe there was a message stating "system voltage" or something similar. I know I had a pretty good idea that I was running on battery alone so I headed straight home. But as far as the running of the bike you would never know something was wrong until you ran out of battery. | ||
| Marcodesade |
Thanks guys. Zac, I now know exactly what we're talking about, from playing with slot cars in my youth. Magnets were on the outside and the coils rotated IIRC (I was 9 at the time), but an electric motor and an alternator are nearly the same beast. And now for the really embarrassing part --- even if it does amount to very good news. As I disconnected the battery tender, I noticed the negative battery bolt was just a little wobbly. Any looser, and I wouldn't have bothered taking the bike in. Any tighter, and I wouldn't have mentioned it to the tech. Long story short: tests indicate charging system is working properly. It was a loose battery connection. Thanks again for all the help. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Didn't mean to sound patronizing. Sorry if I came across that way. You asked what a stator was...  Glad all's well. Z | ||
| Ccryder |
Nothing to be embarassed about, that's why I mentioned it. I had mine loosen up few weeks ago so that's why I alwyas mention it. | ||
| Marcodesade |
Zac: I wasn't being sarcastic --- your description really reminded me of my days playing with slot cars, and that was the visual I needed to get it. The only difference was that on the cars the stationary part of the motor was the magnets (mounted to the chassis) and the coils were mounted on a spinning hub. It's been a long time since I had a physics class, but my recollection is that just as "a conductor moving thru a magnetic field will induce electron flow," introducing current (i.e. electron flow) will cause the conductor to move. The former is a generator, the latter a motor. |
