| Author | Message | ||
     Sl33py |
Sorry to double post (also in oil change tools thread), but at wits end and hope someone can help before i get up early (in a few hours) and try to finish before going to work... rain or no rain i want to ride tomorrow! I'm tired, and can't understand what i'm missing... Must be a complete noob mistake. it's not my first time (on MC's) but geesh... Drained the oil - 17mm socket for L side, 6mm allen for R side. golden - no problems. filling back up it overfills *just* over 2qts. OK, no biggie - checked level and yep it's over full. I popped the R side drain since it was easier - barely a dribble comes out of it! (plug/cap was off) So i pulled it down from the PB stand, straddled and leaned it to the R pretty far - a bit more dribble then nothing but drip drip. I am 99% sure from reading the manual that they share the oil - why isn't the oil getting into the R side? Engine is/was cold, but even sitting 30+ min later it's still not seeming to get into R side. Help!? WTF am i doing wrong? I'll check in the AM so hopefully can get it finished and Ride to work! Thanks!!! | ||
| Hughlysses |
Did you change the filter? I'd imagine a good bit of oil comes out when you pull that. If you didn't that may explain why it's overfilling. | ||
| Parrick |
Drain what you need to drain from the left side plug. That is the oil reservoir plug. The oil will get to the right side after the engine is started. It looks kind of like a standard engine setup but it is actually a dry sump design with the sump reservoir attached to the bottom of the engine. That's why the oil check/change procedure is so weird. So...drain left. Refill to proper approximate cold check level. Throw a quart in your pack. Ride to work. Watch for oil light flashes, especially during braking. Add a bit if the light blinks. Do a proper hot check procedure after work. -Pat | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
If you changed the filter your bike should take almost 3 qts. you need to run the bike after you fill it up with oil before you check the oil. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Oil changes on these bikes are so messed up. It took mine 3 full qts just to get anything to register on the stick, and another 1/8 of a qt to get it come up into the "safe" zone. | ||
| Packdog |
Xl1200r - Yikes! Were you checking the oil while the bike was on the side stand? 3 qts just seems like a lot. You're right though, the whole oil check/change on these bikes is really screw-ball. | ||
| Sl33py |
I did the 20-30 miles flush per the hybrid MotoMan (WOT/off, but kept under 6k)rec. Did not change the filter this time, will do that next time. So starting the bike will "pull" the oil into the R side? I thought about doing that, but didn't want to try it without suggestion to do so. A bit paranoid w/ the new bike... Yeah I've done my own oil/plugs/maint. on my XR650L for years - this is definitely different! Pat - What's the proper cold check level? It only says hot check instructions when i read through them. May have missed something obviously. Thanks for everyone help! I'm going to wait for any final suggestions while i get ready and then go fiddle w/ it a bit. If i can get it sorted, i'm riding to work!  | ||
| Xl1200r |
Pack - nope, it was upright. I tried both the cold and hot check, though I'll go out in garage and recheck it now after I've put some miles on it and see where it's at. *edit - well I just did a cold check and it's just a smidge over the full mark. Not enough for me to worry about. I'll do a hot check on it when I get a chance and see where that is. Next time I'll just do three quarts and see where it's at. (Message edited by xl1200r on October 23, 2009) | ||
| Daggar |
Three quarts is all you need, if you change the filter too. You have to do a hot check after an oil change, or adding any oil. The procedure for checking the oil is in the manual that came with your bike. It's also linked to on the front page of this forum. You have to follow the procedure exactly to get a proper reading. | ||
| P_squared |
If you didn't replace the filter, I wouldn't worry overly much about it "only taking 2 qts." before it overfills. Do the cold/hot level checks EXACTLY as written & you should be fine. '08 Procedures: Perform engine oil COLD CHECK as follows: NOTE: For an accurate cold check, you must wait a minimum of four hours after the motorcycle has been run. 1. See Figure 1. Loosen the dipstick. 2. Hold the motorcycle upright for one minute. 3. While continuing to hold the motorcycle upright, remove and wipe off the dipstick. 4. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely. 5. See Figure 2. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. (0.1 L) increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. If oil was added, proceed to the Oil Level Hot Check procedure. Perform engine oil HOT CHECK as follows: 1. Ride motorcycle for approximately 10 minutes. Ride at least 5 miles (8 kilometers) to ensure the oil is hot and the engine is at normal operating temperature. Readings taken with colder oil could lead to an overfull engine condition. 2. Stand the motorcycle upright (not leaning on sidestand) on a firm level surface. An uneven surface will produce a false oil reading. 3. Idle the motorcycle for three minutes. Shut off the motorcycle. 4. See Figure 1. Loosen the dipstick. 5. Wait for 3-4 minutes after shutdown (with vehicle still upright) before reading the oil level, or false readings may result. 6. Unscrew and remove dipstick from oil filler hole. Wipe dipstick clean. 7. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely. 8. See Figure 2. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX (measured after performing steps 1 through 7) is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. (0.1 L) increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. Confirm oil level by repeating steps 1 through 8. '09 Procedures: Perform engine oil level COLD CHECK as follows: NOTE: For an accurate cold check, you must wait a minimum of four hours after the motorcycle has been run. See Filler Plug/Dipstick Location. Loosen the dipstick. Hold the motorcycle upright for one minute. While continuing to hold the motorcycle upright, remove and wipe off the dipstick. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely. See Filler Plug/Dipstick Location. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. 0.1 L increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. If oil was added, proceed to the Oil Level Hot Check procedure. Buell 1125R/CR OIL LEVEL HOT CHECK Perform engine oil level HOT CHECK as follows: Ride motorcycle for approximately 10 minutes. Ride at least 5 miles (8 kilometers) to verify the oil is hot and the engine is at normal operating temperature. Readings taken with colder oil could lead to an overfull engine condition. Stand the motorcycle upright (not leaning on sidestand) on a firm level surface. An uneven surface will produce a false oil reading. Idle the motorcycle for three minutes. Shut off the motorcycle. See Filler Plug/Dipstick Location. Loosen the dipstick. Wait for 3-4 minutes after shutdown (with vehicle still upright) before reading the oil level, or false readings may result. Unscrew and remove dipstick from oil filler hole. Wipe dipstick clean. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely. See Oil Dipstick Proper Operating Range. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX (measured after performing steps 1 through 7) is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. 0.1 L increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. Confirm oil level by repeating steps 1 through 8. NOTE: If the oil level is at (or above) the OVERFULL mark, drain oil at 6.8 fl. oz. 0.2 L increments until the oil level is between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick. Repeat steps 1 though 8 to confirm proper level. 9. Hand tighten dipstick into oil filler hole. Check the "Corrected oil level verification process for 2008 Buell 1125R" sticky at the top of the 1125R board, it contains the above info as well as graphics. | ||
| Parrick |
I was just looking at the owner's manual oil change procedure and I think there is a typo in there. It has the left plug listed as "Crankcase oil drain" and the right plug listed as "Engine oil drain". That looks backward to me. From what I have seen and observed I would have to say that the left side is the oil sump reservoir. Right side looks like the crankcase drain. I have never gotten more than a little oil out of the right side which would be consistent with the crankcase drain on a dry sump setup. | ||
| Freezerburn840 |
I have done 2 oil changes on my cr which has 3300 on it now. It has taken 3 quarts both times and maybe a couple oz.'s extra. step 1. I just warm up the bike to operating temp. and give it a couple revs at idle. Then turn it off. step 2. Drain left side next to filter kick stand down. step3. Then drain right side using tilt method. step 4. Then I replace the oil filter. Then fill up with 3 quarts exactly. step 5. Start her up at operating temp give her a few revs. Let idle for a couple minutes shut her down and check oil. If oil is not reading. Throw a couple oz.'s more in. I have been getting good results at oil readings so far. I do agree the oil change on this bike is weird and getting a consistant reading is interesting. | ||
| Xnoahx |
Well Buell knew the check procedure was screwy and added a sight glass for 2010, who knows if those actually made it out there though. | ||
| Sl33py |
Thanks Guys! I did my first oil change at about 30 mi. Did some commutes (suck w/ trying to vary RPMs), and a fun ride today w/ a buddy on his VFR. Semi-dry the first half and got to really work the new bike out. Twisty's are simply amazing. Power for days at any RPM. Loved it! Then it got wet and I've already commuted in the rain, so nothing new, but still impressed with the Corsa's wet traction. Back to the oil change - it's a PITA! I'm doing one more tonight (just hit 200mi) - already drained (per your instructions above - thx!), refilled, ran to temp and checked. How much should i guesstimate i'll need w/o filter change? I did 2 1/2 quarts to start and still don't see it on the stick after warming the bike up. Do i really need to go do 5 miles to make sure it registers correctly? My commute (in the am if i ride) is about 25 mi, so don't want to go that far if it's low... And "upright" - is my PB stand OK? It's level, but a bit high in the back - will that matter? Thanks!! | ||
| 1324 |
I'm glad I found this thread. I just did my first oil change on my 09 R over the weekend and had some interesting results. The 2.7 qt capacity listed in the manual left me scratching my head. I added 2.75 qt and went for a short ride. Did the hot check when I got home and found that the oil BARELY registered on the dipstick. Looks like it's going to need the full 3 qts. | ||
| Sl33py |
1324 - I'm glad this helped someone else! Did you change your filter as well? i'm trying to dial in on the amt needed w/o changing the filter - 2.5 so far isn't touching, and now the bike has cooled off (overnight). So i'll warm 'er up and check again then add a bit more at a time. A pain, but this bike is definitely worth it! So anyone who has done it - oil amt w/o filter? thx! | ||
| 1324 |
Yes, I did a filter change. I let mine cool overnight so I'm going to check after work and add whatever is necessary. 3 full qts would be ideal since I am anal and don't like keeping oil containers with odd amounts of oil in them...makes budgeting oil for the next change more involving (yeah, yeah, say what you want - I can take it, lol). Now, anything over 3 qts will mean I need another trip to the stealership...  | ||
| Chessm |
just did my 1125cr's oil yesterday. Followed the instructions to the t and it took exactly 2.7 liters | ||
| Ekruizenga |
All the times I have done it seemed to work out to: With oil filter - 3 quarts Without filter - 2.5-2.75 You do need the bike completely level both front to back and side to side. I have to roll my back tire onto a 3/8" piece of plywood because my garage floor slants toward the drive way. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Would it be reasonable to just ignore the right side drain? In a dry sump engine there shouldn't be more than a couple of ounces, if that. Then it would basically be like a standard wet-sump oil change. KeS | ||
| 1324 |
I added the oil last night. Sure enough, the full three quarts were just what the Dr. ordered. Oil level is right at the full mark when hot and checked per the manual. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Hmm. I just changed mine and 3 quarts wasn't even showing on the dipstick. It ended up wanting... exactly 3 liters. Interestingly, that's 3.3 quarts. Possible there's a documentation confusion? |
