| Author | Message | ||
     Kevin_stevens |
Ok! Picked up my 2009 1125CR today and having mixed results. I love the suspension on this bike. First place I went directly from the dealer was a race shop I use, and we set up the suspension to 35mm front/30mm rear sag, with damping settings per the manual. I was amazed that I was able to get settings for my 240lb ass without having to re-spring the bike. And stiction was virtually non-existent - 3mm front and 4mm rear. Awesome! I have to play around a bit more with the damping settings, but there's plenty of range to get where I need to be. Stock, this bike's suspension is better than the Racetech/Ohlins on my ZX-14. And you can get to the shock preload!!! I'm keeping the revs below 6k as recommended, but giving the bike a thorough mix of rpms and throttle settings. Fueling in general seems very good (but see below). Problems/concerns: 1. Can't get the gas cap open with either key, jiggle as I may. Dealer warned that keys can be "sticky" when new, but both of mine work fine in ignition and seat, and won't open the gas cap no matter what I do. As it stands I'm only going to enjoy this bike for fewer than 200 miles! Is there a magic sequence I'm missing? 2. Tach needle goes crazy at 4800-5000 rpm under neutral throttle, as when on the freeway. Any gear, so it's about 60 in fourth, 68-70 in fifth. Outside this zone it goes back to rock steady. All the search references I see to buzzy needles are at high rpm/acceleration, like 8500 (haven't even been there, still breaking in). Very annoying - known issue? (Update: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/458663.html seems to refer to this at other speeds. Is it worth even bringing this up with the dealer? Will it damage the tach over time? My bike will see this rpm condition a LOT.) 3. A couple of times I've been doing moderately fast roll-ons in second gear (merging ahead on a ramp, leaving a light to get in front of another car and change lanes, etc.), when abruptly the engine has cut out like it hit a rev limiter. This would be at 6K rpm or a bit lower. My reaction has been to let off the gas, and when I apply throttle again the engine is fine. It's not electrical, the engine doesn't die and the Instrument panel doesn't go out, but it's abrupt like hitting a limiter. Is this the dreaded solenoid "hesitation" as seen here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/414007.html ?? I personally would describe this as more than a mere hesitation! Bike doesn't seem to stutter or hesitate at all at less than full roll-on. It's only happened a couple of times (say 20%) and I'm not yet sure of the reproducibility. This is all with the engine fully warm. 4. Can't get the mirrors aligned usefully. After adjusting the lever clamps down somewhat, I can get the mirrors at the right level, but in particular the left one won't adjust out far enough. Is there really NO possible adjustment of the stem or body at all, just the mirror itself?? Thanks very much for assistance. I know it must be tiresome to see repeat posts from newbies, so I do try to do my homework and search for issues before asking. KeS | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Update: Got the gas cap working! Both keys actually fit fine. The issue was that the lock is actually pulling the cap down to form a seal, and mine needs downward pressure to take the load off and avoid having to turn the key way too hard. Glad that one's fixed - at least I can run the bike this weekend! KeS | ||
| Bigblock |
I haven't heard of the solenoid shutting it down in 2nd gear, but I would de-noid it immediately, see if it works. At least you know it won't haunt you in 3rd gear and if it still does it, you have eliminated that possibility. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Ok, I'm going to assume that I can't count to three, and that's actually what I was experiencing. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/436455.html I've dealt with a lot of the Japanese bikes with solenoid-actuated exhaust valves, and none of them have been anywhere near this - extreme. So I thought this must have been something else. Terminator plug, here I come! KeS | ||
| Vtwinbuell |
Here is a good denoid thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/490767.html | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Gracias, that one has better pictures. So, day old bike, start ripping it apart!  KeS | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Congrats on your new ride! Sounds like your getting the bugs worked out!! Once those bugs are gone I think you will find nothing but a ....... Perma-grin :-) -Robert www.xblights.com | ||
| Hellgate |
Spray a little WD40 in the key slot, it will help. The tach needle vibes like crazy, I just ignore it. The suspension is very nice isn't it? Much better than Japanese set ups, even though it is Japanese - go figure... I love the adjustability. | ||
| Jsg4dfan |
I rode my CR home yesterday as well, and I share many of your observations. I only felt the 'noid once. Otherwise, I felt it fuels quite well, and certainly has major steam. It has none of the harshness or buzz that I experienced when I demo'd an '08 R model last year, and is far happier below 4,000 rpm. I didn't notice any tach flutter. As for the mirrors, I found that at first they provided an excellent view of my knees. Once home, I rotated the lever clamps, and found that the clutch side contacted the flyscreen after dropping it approximately 1.5 degrees, so I resorted to loosening the bar clamp and rotating the handlebars upward very slightly. The only remaining obstacle now is that the brake side is blocked from much rotation by the throttle cables. The throttle housing is pinned to the bars, so I may be slotting the hole in the bars soon. It may seem extreme, but these little things can make a bigger difference than you might think in comfort level. The mirror glass seems to be the only thing that's adjustable. After futzing with them for a while, I discovered that the glass will move more than you think, but it's a bit difficult because the pivot is VERY tight. Pushing on one side while pulling on the other is helpful, and I found the force required to be very much into the "this d@mned thing is about to break" range. They're muuuuuuch better now. So far, I love this bike! | ||
| Geforce |
Buzzing tach needle is very common. The best way to figure out if it is just vibration is to place you finger on the center of the IC and see if it is reduced. You could place some sort of rubber material behind it, I took my IC off before the last track to try and see if I could rig something up but I will have to get some sort of rubber material that is just right. Honestly it hasn't been much of a concern for me to mark it as a priority. Good luck! | ||
| Bartimus |
Can i get a little more explanation of this solenoid? what it's purpose is? Is it used to close the throttle? If so, why? | ||
| Daggar |
Solenoid is for EPA noise regulations. Remove it and get the resistor plug. LOTS of info in the archives. (Message edited by daggar on October 23, 2009) | ||
| Oldog |
Bart the noid is a sound control device used to pass the epa sound test, as I understand it, the noid is activated at high throttle openings in 3rd gear, mid rpm, | ||
| Bigblock |
the noid closes the throttle. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
I've dealt with a lot of the Japanese bikes with solenoid-actuated exhaust valves, and none of them have been anywhere near this - extreme. It's not an exhaust valve. It mechanically closes the throttles! Slams em shut at that certain condition to eek past the EPA noise test that says WOT @ XXX Rpms.... Rob | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
I didn't mean "exhaust valve" as in the cylinder head. A lot of the Japanese bikes have similar controls for noise/EPA purposes, like the Suzuki SET system. Flapper or butterfly valve in the intake or exhaust path, motor/solenoid driven, ECU controlled. Some are actually useful, some are minor annoyances; I've never had one that made the bike feel like it hit a brick wall before, so I thought I was dealing with something different. KeS | ||
| Ratbuell |
For side to side mirror adjustment, loosen the torx screw at the base, where it attaches to the handlebar. Rotate the base to a median position you like, tighten the bolt, adjust the mirror lens. | ||
| Bartimus |
thanks for the info guys, so I guess removal is a "must do" when you pick up an 1125, eh? I remember the 1125R I demoed, did that, fell flat on it's face when I pinned the throttle after rounding a corner. freaked me out, i thought it was just the demo bike had something wrong with it... | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
For side to side mirror adjustment, loosen the torx screw at the base, where it attaches to the handlebar. Rotate the base to a median position you like, tighten the bolt, adjust the mirror lens. Seriously?!?! That's *awesome*, if I can rotate the base fifteen degrees, I'll bet the mirrors work perfectly! I didn't try to loosen them because it didn't look like there was any adjustment there, just removal. Will try tomorrow and report! KeS | ||
| Cafefun |
Whats the proper way to set front and rear sag? this bike is the first one I really want to get set up well. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
There are several good threads on here, search on suspension setup and you'll hit them. Basically, get all the weight off the front end (tire in air), measure total fork tube exposed. Put the rider on the bike, lift UP on the front end and let it return, measure tube again. Push DOWN on the front end and let it return, measure tube again. Difference in those two is stiction, less is better. Take the average of the two and subtract from the first number, that's your average sag. You want around 1/3 of your total travel to be used in sag, so adjust preload at top of forks to get 35-40mm sag. Same thing with the rear but measure vertically from the axle to a convenient point on the body - the reflector works ok on a stock bike. Preload is adjusted under the rider seat, 30-35mm this time. KeS | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
I'm thrilled, I was able to get the mirrors exactly where I need them! Not much adjustability, but I don't need much. New farkles: the Buell soft saddlebags and the comfort seat. I'm ready for my trip to Ensenada in a couple of weeks! KeS | ||
| Icontender |
I just picked my CR as well. I only have 26 miles on it though. I believe this was the same biked I demoed over a month ago. When I demoed the bike (1125r and 1125cr) I did notice the throttle cut off when I did a 1/2 - 3/4 throttle twist. It happened a few times. This hasn't happen with my bike but then again its only 26 miles old. As far as the break in I am going past 6k and trying not to maintain constant RPM speed. I need to change the oil now since its passed 20 miles. The 1125cr bike makes my xb12ss feel like a cruiser bike. http://www.logicminds.biz/pictures/sale/1125cr.jpg | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Followup: 1) The speedo vibe has gone away for now. It could have been that one of the clutch/brake hoses was touching the flyscreen before I adjusted everything; it could just be the engine breaking in. At this point I'll wait until 1K miles or so before reassessing. 2) I get to go to 7.5K now! What I really notice about the breakin is that the transmission is smoothing out very nicely. 3) Ok, this frigging solenoid has to go!! 4) Clutch engagement is way the heck out there. I like that it's light and short, but my stubby little fingers wish I could get it closer in to the bar. Already at max adjustment on the lever, is there another "gross" adjustment anywhere? Brake lever is fine at 3 or so. 5) Is there a different throttle cam available, maybe as a performance part? I don't want/need a real quarter turn throttle, but this one is a long way around. KeS | ||
| Sknight |
I haven't tried it on my 1125R yet but an R1 throttle tube fixed my Hayabusa perfectly. It was just enough to reach WOT without changing my hand. |
