Author |
Message |
Lovedabueller
| Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 11:31 pm: |
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ok. so after finally learning how to get to diag mode. i have some questions.... 1. what is iac system error p0506 2. what is act int sys error p---- 3. what is clutch state? 4. map kpa? 5. iac steps? 6. f adapt fuel 93.5 r adapt fuel 100.0, is this normal??? where can i find the definitions for all this stuff? thank you as i know this has probably been discussed and if you dont want to answer point me in the right direction at least. keith |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 11:36 pm: |
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Someone has been playing with the diagnostic mode without the proper service and diagnostic manuals
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D_adams
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 02:13 am: |
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1. P0506 DTC (diagnostic trouble code) is triggered when the PCM (powertrain control module) detects an engine idle speed that is lower than the desired (pre-programmed) RPM. 2. ---ACT INT SYS ERR--- equals active intake system error. search for the solenoid removal process and get the $6 plug from your dealer. basically, take that part OFF the bike, it's somewhat dangerous in the wrong conditions. 3. this is the state the clutch is in, clutch state should be 0(zero) when released and 1(one) when pulled in. (i think) 4. too complicated for a quick explanation. go here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor 5. idle air control steps, again, complicated. go here. http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/papers/747iac.txt 6. yep, just your ecm learning what it needs, based on all the info from above electronics/sensors. it all depends on where you are and the conditions there. mine is currently at 110 front and 100 rear. The search function is your friend, google is even better. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 08:27 am: |
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Just to add: 3) This is what tells the ECM to feather the throttle a little automatically when you start to release the clutch. 4) This basically is measuring atmoshperic pressure in the manifold. Denser air (like in cold weather or low altitudes) would have the ECM add fuel. Thinner air (in hot weather or high alt) would take away fuel. |
Lovedabueller
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 08:36 am: |
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so how can question #1 be fixed? |
D_adams
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 09:12 am: |
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Mmmmmm, not 100% sure, haven't actually looked at the elec manual for that error. Just a guess, it's the IAC control sticking or partially blocked, or possibly an air leak around the manifold. |
Jersey_thunder
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 09:15 am: |
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Take it to a mechanic that knows buells..,this is not a bike to learn on!!! Based on your questions please don't take this the wrong way...don't touch it |
Lovedabueller
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 10:16 am: |
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Jersey- thanks for the advise, i would like to say a couple of things, i am a very mechanically inclined person, i am no stranger to motors etc. just new to the self diagnostics, when i ride the bike it feels great, idles smooth, and seems to be good. my questions are just to see what is the norm on this bike and learn a little bit about it. for example #2 its reading that cause i pulled the noid. so that can be an easy fix. does the service manual go over these things and what are the normal ranges. like the MAP sensor will the service manual tell me the normal pressure range? but really i am thinking about taking it to a mechanic. but I NEED TO LEARN TOO. ya know what i mean? |
Carbonbigfoot
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 10:37 am: |
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Take it to your dealer and have him clear the codes, then see if they come back. I had some odd low fuel pressure code a while back, and it's never reappeared. Might be nothing. Oh, and +1 on ditching the solenoid. R |
D_adams
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 12:57 pm: |
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Yes, the electrical manual goes over the codes. It shows a flow chart on diagnosis to troubleshoot problems for each code. Yes, it shows the correct ranges or things to look for on the sensors, etc. The only thing you probably can't get is the breakout box from H-D. It's just a tool for doing electrical stuff without disconnecting anything from the bike. If you know what you're doing, then you don't absolutely have to have it, but it does make the job easier. Taking it to the dealer for warranty work is one thing. Knowing what's wrong and being able to help is something else. Not all techs know EVERYTHING about your bike, so the more you know, the better off you are. My best customers (years ago when I wrenched on bikes for a living) were the ones who actually knew what was going on with their bikes. They were the ones who rode it day in and day out. Little quirks or w/e that I would never see, they did. I got more repeat business from them than anyone else. Knowing what was wrong and being able to quickly fix it made a huge difference to them and if I could get them out the door and back on the road quicker, they remembered that later and thus, I got another referral for a job well done. |
Jersey_thunder
| Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 08:49 pm: |
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I NEED TO LEARN TOO. ya know what i mean? |
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