| Author | Message | ||
     Xbswede |
Starting this Friday night I will be tearing into my baby to do the valve clearance check/adjustment and spark plug change. I have read Zack's posts several times and reviewed the service manual. Seems pretty straight forward. I guess I will soon find out and either report back  Or  and ask for input. | ||
| Hogs |
PLEase take lots of Pictures thanks | ||
| Pizzaboy |
im about a week behind you, buddy~! my dealership called today to tell me that the parts are in for the service. ill be picking them up shortly then digging in! i got new valve cover gaskets, exhaust gaskets and spark plugs. im looking forward to the fun!! | ||
| Cataract2 |
I'm right behind you also. Now, if CO would quit trying to have FL weather. I could get those last 700 miles. | ||
| Ccryder |
Mine is getting done as we speak. Time, back and money . I don't have the time, my back could not take it, so I just pony up with the $'s. Have fun I'll think about you when I'm riding this weekend........... | ||
| Zac4mac |
OT - Ryan, we switched weather with Seattle, too cold for Florida... 49 *F right now. We are almost double the rain we usually get.  Z | ||
| Xbswede |
Ccryder- I have time no and money and I am very familiar with mechanic work so it should be fairly easy for me. I hope. Cataract - We have had 106 degree weather here so I decided to do my valve job at 12221 miles instead of the 12400. I do not do well in heat. By Monday it should be back down to high 80's low 90's which I can just manage. Actually this weekend its dropping to the low 90's I will post up some pictures and any issue I run into. I plan on spending 4-5 hours working on it tonight after work in the late evening when it starts to cool down and then hopefully finish Saturday evening. I really don't see this taking me more then 6-8 hours unless I run into issues. | ||
| Ccryder |
Please don't get me wrong, I can do the mechanical work and have the tools, space, and lifts. I've reviewed it in the SM and have the mechanical ability but, I know what my back will do after 6 hours of bending, squating, lifting. It's not worth the pain and possible permanent damage to my back to save a few $'s (even some bigger $'s). BTW, if you do have to make a change in the clearances, where are you going to get the shims? Just more food for thought. TIme2Work (to pay for my valve check/ adjustment) | ||
| Doerman |
FYI: A trained tech will take about 7 hours to do it. When I had mine done at the dealership, it took the tech 10 hours since it was only the second bike he had done. He (the tech) is pretty meticulous though. | ||
| Xbswede |
Ccryder- I will get my Shims from Latus and yes I understand about the back. Trust me if I had the available funds I would have them do it. "A trained tech will take 7 hours" We will see. It was just my opinion based on the work that needs to be done. I could be way off but I really don't think so considering I have been estimating jobs for the last 15 years. | ||
| Pizzaboy |
I don't know what your talking about ccryder; saying I'm going to have downtime where I can't ride! I've still got my s2!! I always have atleast 1 buell in working condition! | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Also, what if you go in there and find some pitted cams or something else amiss? If it is at the dealership, all is well for the warranty work. If you are in your garage, what then? | ||
| Xbswede |
Fresno your always so positive, love it. .LOL Just got home and will be starting in on the project within the next hour. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Just being realistic...this exact thing happened to Zac and would have happened to me as well. I hope it works out of course, but stuff happens. | ||
| Naiguy |
my dealer quoted me 700 clams for the service is that right? | ||
| Ccryder |
I think the flat rate is 5-6 hours. Throw in a few gaskets, plugs it all adds up. Last time mine was $450-$500 including tax. | ||
| Xbswede |
Well I started at 7:00 PM and worked until 12:30 am. (5.5 hours). I am pooped and exhausted from the heat its still 75 degrees outside. I wasted bit of time getting the rear end of the bike secured since I didn't have a wheel choke. I also struggled with the rear rocker cover for some reason. It was a real PITA to get back on. So now I am going to bed and will finish the rest some time this weekend. So all I have left to do is to: Install airbox base plate, filter and airbox. Install Exhaust. Install Pod covers. My intake was at .007"-.008" and my Exhaust was at .01" - .011". No pitting. I will post some pictures after I get them of my camera. Spark plugs had some wear but had nice color. Good night | ||
| Ccryder |
Aron: You da Man!!! Glad you didn't find any issues. If you are pooped (at 20 years younger than me) then I would probably be in REAL agony. Do you have any suggestions on what you would have done different or what would make it easier? I know Zac and others gained some real insight after their 1st valve check experience. Time to pick mine up. Neil S. | ||
| Borrowedbike |
Damm Aron, I was expecting you at breakfast this morning! Slacker. | ||
| Xbswede |
I guess I could off. My wife got up at 3:00 to get ready for work and ended up waking me up. But I promptly fell back to sleep at 4:00 am and am now wide awake again at 8:00. LOL. Ccryder- I would defiantly not do this again in 90 + degrees. Dirt and sweat just sucks. A wheel Choke is a must I ended up running tie downs from my passenger pegs to my four wheeler which provided a 450 lb anchor. But I wasn't smart enough to do this right off the bat and caused my bike to lean over on to my Quad. Thankfully my garage is packed so tightly with crap that there wasn't really any place for it to fall. No damage except my cheap 3rd eye bar end mirror breaking as it supported itself against my quad. What I learned is I need to get some pointers on how to do the rear rocker cover. The manual is real vague and I tried with the engine up, rotated down, half way in-between and just could not find a good spot to easily pull the cover out and even worse putting it back in. I must have struggled for a good 30 -40 minutes trying to put that one cover on and keeping the gasket in place. I also learned if you are able to man handle your idler pulley a little you can do this with out loosen the rear axle. The headers do not need to be removed. I just had to remove my Exhaust and mid pipe. the D&D probably saved me another 20-30 minutes because it takes 5 minutes to remove. I spent very little time reading the manual while doing the work because I already new everything g I had to loosen or removed from reading it ahead of time about 1/2 dozen times plus posts from Zack which are great by the way. I really like the fact that Buell made all the Torx screws the same size. Really saved time and i never bothered marking them all. You really cant put the wrong bolt back in with Buells design. I really appreciated it even with the engine bolts. All the electrical connectors are different so it makes it easy as well. Wit ha little better planning cooler weather and some tips on the rear rocker cover I might be able to shave off an hour. but that's going at a fast pace with no breaks or distractions form kids or wife. One of the reasons why I also decided to do this late at night. | ||
| Xbswede |
Idler removed for belt slack  Right side  Front Cams  Rear Cams  Plugs out of spec by .002"  | ||
| Blackflash |
Those plugs are shot. look how oval they are at the tip in pic. They are probably .015 -.020 out | ||
| Blackflash |
Very rich too.Might want to back off on the fuel.Mine were lighter at 12k .I run 6%sometimes 7% when cooler temps on a stock R with osb tuner. | ||
| Xbswede |
Blackflash- Pictures can be misleading. The widest spot measures .037". Max shoud be .035". I disagree about it being rich. Plugs are difficult to read unless you kill your motor at speed and cost to a stop and pull the plug. Soot will build up quickly in stop and go traffic and long ideling. My dyno time shows that my afr is at 14 at cruise and 13 at WOT. | ||
| Blackflash |
sounds good .Im trying to find a picture of what the shims look like and what they cost.And if the camshaft timing can be checked when the shim check is done. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Looks a bit fat, but if you're running strong... My plugs were much lighter, tan with a hint of red. Right before the 04z flash and Loretta was running like a popcorn machine. Fire-faces look good and clean tho. They are ovalled, worn out, just like mine were. I seem to remember wiggling the rear cover a bunch and somewhere along the line it snicked into place. I forgot to torque down the rear cover and after about 15 miles, it let go. OOooookey mess everywhere. I loosened it, wiggled it, tapped it back in place and torqued it down. Nary a drip since. Congratulations! We are a small group  BTW, you can get the shims at any HD shop, they are the same ones the V-Rod uses. The gaskets are very thick and should be good thru several services. Z | ||
| Xbswede |
Zack I dynoed at 143 RWHP and had a 13 AFR at WOT and a 14 in the mid range so I don't really want to remove fuel. Plus My bike runs really cool at 164F - 196F depending on if its stop and go and how hot. Oh and my bike is all put together and started right up. hopefully I don't spring a leak I checked every bolt twice I think. LOL it was late though. | ||
| Xbswede |
Zack I knew it was the same as the V-rod. I have to do it next. But I am practiced up now and think the V-rod will be much easier. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Then I expect my plugs should look darker this time, as Loretta's running as good as ever. I tend to ride her at similar rpm as when I'd ride my Firebolt. Just with a LOT more on top. I'm tuning slowly, shooting for easy, comfortable, smooth from idle to 5-6 k rpm. Then strong and aggressive above that and at high TPS. I like being able to run 17-18mph at 2k rpm in 3rd gear. So do my neighbors. | ||
| Ccryder |
I found my first set of plugs and if your's are out by .002", then mine were out by .020". They are very worn compared to your's. Yep a good reason to change them at 12k intervals. Neil S. |
