| Author | Message | ||
     Luisemilio25r |
Well my left rear wheel bearing is in pieces and the dealer does not have a slot available until the 24th. And I spoke to the parts dept and they don't have the bearings in stock and can't order them until service dept sees the bike to diagnostic it. So I'm looking at a down time of around 3 weeks. It should be covered by the warranty. Also the seals for the bearings are orange. Would any of you recommend me getting my own parts and doing the repairs my self? Is it easy or do you need any special tools to drive the bearing out/in the wheel? Thanks. Any info would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
Also by any chance would any of you guys have the interchange part number for the wheel bearings? thanks | ||
| Ron_luning |
You should go to another dealer if one is within a reasonable distance. Three weeks is way too long for a simple warranty repair. The service manager himself should stay after work to give your bike a quick look so they can order the parts. Have a wheel bearing go out on a new car and see if it takes 2 weeks to get it even looked at. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Luis- According to another thread, the 1125 uses the same bearings as the XBs. Rear bearings are 6006-2RS (30 x 55 x 13) sealed ball bearings. You can get them at any industrial bearing supplier. Koyo and SKF are good brands. The latest Buell OEM bearings are made by KBC and have black seals. You do need special tools to remove the old bearings and it's best to have special tools to install them. An incorrect installation will cause them to fail prematurely. If you can't find a dealer to fit you in, any independent bike shop should be able to install them without a problem. | ||
| 1_mike |
What Hugh said... Cheaper and most likely a better quality. Mike | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
Wow that was fast! Thank you very much I knew Badweb would not disappoint. Do you need a press and adapters to remove/replace the bearings? | ||
| Hughlysses |
You don't have to have a press, but there are some special tools involved. Here's some info recently posted by Al Lighton of American Sport Bike in the BB&D forum regarding bearings and replacement (Ulys have had quite a few bearing failures which resulted in this post): ---------------------- Posted on Tuesday, June 30, 2009 - 10:30 pm: I have spoken with folks at Buell that are quite knowledgeable on all of this, and can provide the following info. 1) The original FAG bearings (black) [comment- used on early XB's] were replaced by NTN bearings that had better seals and less hygroscopic grease. The new KBC bearings have yet again better (stiffer) seals and still better grease. They also have a better lines of communication into the bearing supplier themselves. Bottom line, the change to the bearing isn't just some cost cutting move..they ARE better. 2) The design of the wheel shoulders and internal spacer tube are such that in the worst case tolerance stackup of NEW wheels, bearings, and spacer tubes, the inner race on the bearing OPPOSITE the caliper/rotor will be seated against the inner spacer with just less than 0.5mm clearance between the rear wheel shoulder and the outer race, and just less than 0.25mm on the front wheel. All of this assumes that the bearings are installed correctly (rotor side bearing seated in wheel, spacer installed, opposite bearing installed until inner race seats against spacer tube). What this means is that IF the bearings are installed correctly, AND the spacer tube is not damaged, overtorquing the axle slightly shouldn't cause an inelastic deformation of the spacer tube. If Mongo gets a hold of it and gets brutal with the breaker bar during installation, all bets are off. 3) The bearing installation tool is designed to push on BOTH the inner and outer races in a plane. During installation of the opposite rotor side bearing, if the installation forces are applied to EITHER, but not both, of the races, you can potentially damage that bearing. If you use the old "socket on the outer race with a hammer" method, you'll probably ruin that, and possibly both bearings. You'll likely coin the bearing races, and might damage the spacer, if you seat the outer race against the wheel shoulder on that side. And regardless of the potential bearing damage, if you walk that bearing in which is easy to do with the hammer method, your interference fit of the outer race into the wheel may be compromised. Buell doesn't utilize thermal methods (i.e., hot wheel, cold bearing) for installation, they rely on process control and proper tooling. 4) When a bearing goes more than a little bad, it is possible and likely that the end of the spacer tube can be damaged. In this case, the margins afforded by the design as described in 2) above can be affected. Some bearing removal tools can also damage the ends of the spacer. So inspect that spacer tube with each bearing change. 5) Related to 4, future service manuals may provide for an inspection dimension on that spacer tube. But it isn't there now, so here are the nominals: Rear Spacer Tube: 202.8 +/- 0.05 mm, 7.984 +/- 0.002 inch Front Spacer Tube: 107.9 +/- 0.05mm, 4.248 +/- 0.002 inch Hopefully this is helpful info. Al | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
Thank you to all the info guys. So let me see I I got this right: If you press it in with some kind of tool that is flush with the inner and outer race of the bearing, and you press it down to the right depth on the wheel, then the install should be ok. Right? Or is not that simple? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Basically. Be sure and install the brake rotor side bearing first as Al notes above. Press in bearing until it bottoms in the wheel recess. Turn the wheel over, insert spacer, press in other bearing until inner race contacts spacer. If you're gonna do it yourself, you can buy a blind bearing puller kit at Harbor Freight for about $35 to remove the old bearings, and a bearing driver kit for about $10 or up to insert the new bearings. Several of us Uly riders have had good results by leaving the new bearings in the freezer for an hour or two and warming up the wheel with a hair dryer or heat gun. The bearings can easily be tapped into place using that technique. | ||
| Xbswede |
Luisemilio25r- sorry to hear that its such a pain to get a simple wheel bearing warranty work done. I would definitely be looking for another dealer if thats an option. You shouldn't have to take this on yourself but I think if I was told 3 weeks I would be doing it myself. I just had my right side bearing go out yesterday on my way home. I pulled my wheel and delivered it to latus today and got a call 1.5 hrs later that its already done and ready for me to pick and all done under warranty. | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
Wow that is service. I even asked if they could at least order the bearing in advance so when I took it for diagnose they would at least have the parts ready. They said that they couldn't do it. | ||
| Dirty_john |
when thinking about refitting wheel bearings put them in a tied off freezer bag and into the deep freeze overnight. in this way the outer brg races will contract a little and make fitting easier, a bearing fitting tool from any motor factor is cheap and then you've got it for the next time the bearings fail |
