| Author | Message | ||
     Slickshoes19 |
I took my bike in to get fixed on Monday and it turns out I stripped the oil plug. The mechanic said he tried rethreading it but it didn't work. He then told me I have 2 options: Buy a 200$ tap it kit or replace the engine case (with labor would be "thousands"). Has anyone had this problem and fixed it? Also of note, the mechanic said they don't make heli-coils or self-tapping screws that big. Thanks for any suggestions. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
Damn. That sucks. Is the mechanic of which you speak the dealer? Here's a couple of "farm" type solutions http://www.shawplugs.com/?gclid=COCfw5mhnpwCFQUhnA od9REXdA http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_plugs_oversize_ repair.htm Not too sure that they don't make tap kits that are less that $200..... The first link I would consider as a field expedient repair, not really permanent. The second, should be good to go. Just get the right size and rock and roll. Get one with a magnet. R | ||
| Avc8130 |
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html These guys seem to make thread repair kits that get quite large. ac Edit: They even have a whole line devoted to drain plugs! http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html (Message edited by avc8130 on August 12, 2009) (Message edited by avc8130 on August 12, 2009) | ||
| Slickshoes19 |
Thanks for the advice. I guess my (buell dealer) mechanic is doing one of the best options. I learned he ordered the timesert kit already and it should be here next week. He sounded optimistic but at the same time said "if I don't drill the hole out perfectly straight before putting the timesert in it won't work.". Gulp, that's not what I wanted to hear! Carbon, thanks for the links, i'll let my dealer know about them. | ||
| Avc8130 |
He can use a tapping block to keep his hole straight. A GOOD mechanic will have no issues with this. ac | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
i haven't changed my own oil on this bike yet just how big is the plug? | ||
| Slojon |
There is a nifty tool which helps to prevent this from happening. it is called a torque wrench. Used in conjunction with specifications available, the problem will not occur. Education is amazing, couple of ways to learn.... | ||
| Slickshoes19 |
Haha, the ironic part is I used a torque wrench set to the factory specified settings. In the 6-8 oil changes I've done on my bikes the last couple of years I've never used one but my buddy said I definitely should start. This is not to say his advice was not good (on the contrary!) but I went out and bought a cheap torque wrench not thinking it'd make a difference. My mechanic told me this was my downfall as I was using too large and too cheap of a wrench. He went on to say it probably put closer to 30 or 40 lbspsi than the 15 the manual says. He then showed me all of the wrenches he had and how much they were. At that point it just felt like salt on the wound. I spent 25$ on mine. | ||
| Icontender |
I did this to my bike because buell gave me the wrong specs in the manual. My dealer fixed it buy using a timing insert which is a steel thread insert that is much stronger than what came on the bike. It cost me about $150 I think. | ||
| Slypiranna |
If said "mechanic" cannot voice a positive in drilling/tapping/repairing said stripped hole... Request another that will AND has experience with said/similar repair/experience... DO NOT RELY ON A NEWBIE UNLESS the Dealer WILL back he/she up with a solve. This is perhaps one of the simplest of repairs to any "mechanic", let alone a dealer tech. Most Lawnmower repair mechanics have no problem with this one. (Message edited by slypiranna on August 12, 2009) | ||
| Slickshoes19 |
I'm going to call the dealer and mention the tapping block to him even though he probably knows about it. He's one of two buell certified mechanics at the shop and he's worked on my bikes for the last couple years. Perhaps he was just trying to keep the responsibility off of himself/the dealer should he unexpectedly fail. Thanks for putting how easy this should be in perspective. In my head it seemed like stripping the oil plug must be a pretty common occurrence that warranted a fairly simple solution. | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
Sounds like a job for a machinist and not an unsure mechanic. A machinist would most likely drill and tap the next size up and make or buy a custom drain screw. No big deal if your case has enough meat to enlarge. edit to add: bring it down here and I'll do it for free if I can ride it  (Message edited by johnnymceldoo on August 12, 2009) | ||
| R2s |
Sounds like what they call in the automotive world a helicoil. It comes in a kit. You drill it out slightly larger, tap the hole and screw it in with a special tool. The hardened steel coil is thread shaped on both sides. Then you break of this tab that is used to drive it in. I've installed a bunch of them over the years to repair striped holes in aluminum heads and cases. It needs to be drilled strait so it will seal properly, and the motor will need to be flushed. Also how do you know that the dealer mechanic didn't strip it. That's probably why he had to baffle you with the B.S. about (Oh! my real expensive tools. It must have been you that did it.) Even the lamest Chinese P.O.S. torque wrench couldn't be off so much that it was double the setting. Maybe 10%, but 200%. Not even. No way. It's not the cost of your tools that make the mechanic. | ||
| Tpoppa |
Timeserts are definetely the way to go. The kits aren't cheap, but they are a permanent fix. I just had to use a Timesert to repair stripped spark plug threads on my XB9SX (previous owner cross threaded the rear plug and it eventually blew out of the head!!). I did the work myself and it's working great! If you don't want to take on this job, and your dealer isn't inspiring confidence...call around to some private shops. Guys working on older machines have probably done this before. I would insist on a Timesert. I wouldn't use a heli-coil for this type of repair. (Message edited by tpoppa on August 14, 2009) | ||
| Slickshoes19 |
My dealer received the timesert and put it in but it is still leaking. The mechanic told me there wasn't anything else they could do besides replace the engine case. I thought the timeserts were quite easy to insert according to many people on badweb. Should I just take the bike back, pay the ridiculous amount of money for a leaky bike, and just keep track of the oil level every day? I have a year old bike that I'm going to be paying for for the next 5 years and it leaks oil simply because I over-torqued the oil nut. I'm absolutely astonished that this was the best that the dealer could do. I would assume that this is a fairly common occurrence on motorcycles. Anyone have any thoughts on what I should do? | ||
| Avc8130 |
Where does it leak from? Around he threads of the timesert? Maybe they should have used some thread sealant on those threads. If it leaks around the drain bolt, maybe the washer needs to be replaced. Get more info. ac | ||
| Chadhargis |
The timesert won't leak if it's installed correctly. When I did mine on the Ulysses, I used some sealer on the timesert threads and I always used thread sealer on the drain bolt. | ||
| Crowley |
A timesert is more suitable than a Helicoil in this application. I've fitted a few in my time (mainly for mates who don't use a torque wrench  ) and none have leaked and indeed, won't if fitted correctly. Sounds like the 'Tech' who fitted your has wrecked your crankcases. | ||
| Chadhargis |
I have a torque wrench, but the spec was wrong in the Ulysses manual. Now I've got back to the "feel" method with the oil drain plugs. It's never let me down before. |
