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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through July 21, 2009 » How do i change the oil in my bike, « Previous Next »

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Speedy00
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just want to understand how to, I mean I own it and I dont even know where the oil filter is, is it inturnal or exturnal, im lost where to drain the oil as well, Im just lost, please help
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Xbswede
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

see link. Its also in your manual. Is this a serious question?
https://www.buell.com/om/99480-08Y_en/file-6.asp#h dtopic006398
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Sruzhyo
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 03:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

<sigh>

It's like over on the 848 board, a guy talking about how he doesn't know how to lube his chain. No BS, serious thread.

Interesting.
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Bcrawf68
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One thing I do is to make sure the sump is completely drained. It takes several side to side efforts to make sure it's drained. That is, drain on the left, drain on the right, go back to left, etc.
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Carbonbigfoot
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How do I lube my chain, anyway?

R
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Carbonbigfoot
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Speedy:

It's really good that you're taking the initiative and getting rolling with doing your own maintainence. I grew up in an environment where I did all my own wrenching, and realize now how luck I am. Get a book, use your common sense, and ask lots of questions.

Good show!

R
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Ccryder
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With engine oil, inside the engine ;+}
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Sportster_mann
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Changed my oil and filter tonight.

Follow the instructions in the owners manual, it's simple enough, it even has the torque settings for the various bolts.

One tip though - use a rear stand when draining the oil as the side stand gets in the way !
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Pariah
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Get a book... Zimmerman has a nice one about motorcycle maintenance. That, combined with the Service Manual, should be all you need to get started... good luck!

MH
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Speedy00
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I really want to say thank you to everyone. Im gettin ready to make a ride i just have to do. Im gonna ride from WA to SC and i have 5 days to do it in. Im going back to iraq again, thats why im gonna do this, also I just want to hear from as many people as i can the different ways of doing things, This will by my first oil change on a bike. Please wish me luck and ill keep everyone up dated thank you for all the help and the funny stuff everyone has said. Thank you again
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There are two drain plugs and the filter that will help you make a mess.
Definitely do it on a rear stand.

Do the right side first, that drain points down and the stream is steady.
Do the left side but be ready for the stream to move a foot or more.

The left drain points OUT.

When you're all done, pour in 3 quarts of Syn3 20W-50 (I use Red Line) and call it a day.

Keep your head down over there and come back in one complete piece... breathing and ready to ride.

Zack
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Redbuelljunkie
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you're all done, pour in 3 quarts of Syn3 20W-50 (I use Red Line) and call it a day.

For best results, pour in 3 quarts of:

BEST: A high quality 100% synthetic oil 20W-50 (Red Line, Amsoil, Mobil, etc...)

GOOD: A high quality semi-synthetic oil 20W-50 (SYN3 + many others)

MINIMUM: A high quality mineral oil 20W-50 (make sure it's changed every 3,000 miles)


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Pa1125r
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not trying to jack the thread but it sparked a question in my simple mind... Mobil 1 20-50 comes in the V-twin (motorcycle) version and also their regular automotive version. I know with my Hayabusa they said to only use the MX4 (motorcycle) version or you would get clutch slippage. Does the same hold true for the 1125 or can we safely use the much cheaper automotive version in the handy 5 qt jug at Wal-Mart?
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Redbuelljunkie
Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In your 1125 the engine oil is also the transmission oil- therefore you never want to use an automotive-grade oil (energy-conserving) because it contains friction modifiers that can cause clutch slip. Make sure you use an oil that is JASO-MA approved for motorcycle wet-clutch applications.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 04:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You bike only takes 3 quarts of oil. Get a motorcycle-specific oil that is safe for wet clutches. The $10 or $15 you will save at Walmart isn't worth the risk. I used the wrong type of primary oil in my XB and I can tell you, your clutch isn't something you want soaking in the wrong fluid.
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Pa1125r
Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 11:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Red and Fres. That was what I expected to hear. I put Syn3 in for the first oil change and will probably try the Mobil 1 V-twin the next time to see how it does.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on the Mobil 1 V-Twin. It scored highly in the Amsoil Motorcycle oil tests and is relatively easy to obtain (compared to Amsoil).
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