Author |
Message |
Speedy00
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:12 am: |
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I just want to understand how to, I mean I own it and I dont even know where the oil filter is, is it inturnal or exturnal, im lost where to drain the oil as well, Im just lost, please help |
Xbswede
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:52 am: |
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see link. Its also in your manual. Is this a serious question? https://www.buell.com/om/99480-08Y_en/file-6.asp#h dtopic006398 |
Sruzhyo
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 03:24 am: |
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<sigh> It's like over on the 848 board, a guy talking about how he doesn't know how to lube his chain. No BS, serious thread. Interesting. |
Bcrawf68
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:06 pm: |
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One thing I do is to make sure the sump is completely drained. It takes several side to side efforts to make sure it's drained. That is, drain on the left, drain on the right, go back to left, etc. |
Carbonbigfoot
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:45 pm: |
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How do I lube my chain, anyway? R |
Carbonbigfoot
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:51 pm: |
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Speedy: It's really good that you're taking the initiative and getting rolling with doing your own maintainence. I grew up in an environment where I did all my own wrenching, and realize now how luck I am. Get a book, use your common sense, and ask lots of questions. Good show! R |
Ccryder
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:52 pm: |
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With engine oil, inside the engine ;+} |
Sportster_mann
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 05:18 pm: |
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Changed my oil and filter tonight. Follow the instructions in the owners manual, it's simple enough, it even has the torque settings for the various bolts. One tip though - use a rear stand when draining the oil as the side stand gets in the way ! |
Pariah
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 05:31 pm: |
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Get a book... Zimmerman has a nice one about motorcycle maintenance. That, combined with the Service Manual, should be all you need to get started... good luck! MH |
Speedy00
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 07:11 pm: |
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I really want to say thank you to everyone. Im gettin ready to make a ride i just have to do. Im gonna ride from WA to SC and i have 5 days to do it in. Im going back to iraq again, thats why im gonna do this, also I just want to hear from as many people as i can the different ways of doing things, This will by my first oil change on a bike. Please wish me luck and ill keep everyone up dated thank you for all the help and the funny stuff everyone has said. Thank you again |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 10:00 pm: |
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There are two drain plugs and the filter that will help you make a mess. Definitely do it on a rear stand. Do the right side first, that drain points down and the stream is steady. Do the left side but be ready for the stream to move a foot or more. The left drain points OUT. When you're all done, pour in 3 quarts of Syn3 20W-50 (I use Red Line) and call it a day. Keep your head down over there and come back in one complete piece... breathing and ready to ride. Zack |
Redbuelljunkie
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 10:51 pm: |
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When you're all done, pour in 3 quarts of Syn3 20W-50 (I use Red Line) and call it a day. For best results, pour in 3 quarts of: BEST: A high quality 100% synthetic oil 20W-50 (Red Line, Amsoil, Mobil, etc...) GOOD: A high quality semi-synthetic oil 20W-50 (SYN3 + many others) MINIMUM: A high quality mineral oil 20W-50 (make sure it's changed every 3,000 miles)
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Pa1125r
| Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 11:37 pm: |
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I'm not trying to jack the thread but it sparked a question in my simple mind... Mobil 1 20-50 comes in the V-twin (motorcycle) version and also their regular automotive version. I know with my Hayabusa they said to only use the MX4 (motorcycle) version or you would get clutch slippage. Does the same hold true for the 1125 or can we safely use the much cheaper automotive version in the handy 5 qt jug at Wal-Mart? |
Redbuelljunkie
| Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 12:18 am: |
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In your 1125 the engine oil is also the transmission oil- therefore you never want to use an automotive-grade oil (energy-conserving) because it contains friction modifiers that can cause clutch slip. Make sure you use an oil that is JASO-MA approved for motorcycle wet-clutch applications. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 04:49 am: |
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You bike only takes 3 quarts of oil. Get a motorcycle-specific oil that is safe for wet clutches. The $10 or $15 you will save at Walmart isn't worth the risk. I used the wrong type of primary oil in my XB and I can tell you, your clutch isn't something you want soaking in the wrong fluid. |
Pa1125r
| Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 11:40 pm: |
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Thanks Red and Fres. That was what I expected to hear. I put Syn3 in for the first oil change and will probably try the Mobil 1 V-twin the next time to see how it does. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 01:10 am: |
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+1 on the Mobil 1 V-Twin. It scored highly in the Amsoil Motorcycle oil tests and is relatively easy to obtain (compared to Amsoil). |
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