| Author | Message | ||
     Ridenusa4l |
Well i was on my way home from a GREAT ride threw the twisties in northern AZ, getting a feel for my newly tuned suspension. So on my way home about 3miles from home, i was crusin down the freeway about 85-95mph, when BANG,HREGFKEJRHGVD!!, SCREECH, and i looked in my mirrors and wat do i see, NOTHING BUT BLACK AND WHITE SMOKE!!! I couldnt even see the cars behind me!! so i pulled to the side of the road, to scope it out. When i got home EVERYTHING behind me on the bike was DRENCHED in oil, so i cleaned it off, and the dealer came and picked it up. So we'll see wat happens... I personally think it was the oil pump, because it was dripping off the cover, also a head gasket because there was oil dripping down the jugs....Owell thats wat the warranties for, hopefully it gets resolved fast, because i start college in Aug and its gonna be my only means of transportation down there...  Jake BTW- The bike is COMPLETELY stock, with just a K&N, and the 05z flash... (Message edited by ridenusa4l on July 11, 2009) | ||
| Zac4mac |
OUCH You've been taking good care of it from what you've posted. Hope there's no prob getting it fixed. Zack | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
THANX ZAC!! Jake | ||
| Clbofaz |
Wow, that bites. If you end up needing a rental car PM me and I can share my Enterprise corporate discount code with you, unless you have the extended warranty. It's helped me more than once! | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
THANX CHRIS!!!! i have a truck right now, but if i dnt have my bike by aug 20th, then ill definetly take u up on that, THANX ALOT!!! Jake BTW i dnt have the extended warranty ...yet.. | ||
| Xnoahx |
Maybe in the future when the bike is making strange noises, take it easy. You might be back on the road by september as it stands since you are probably going to need a new motor. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
ouchy | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
WHAT OIL WERE YOU RUNNING? | ||
| Pariah |
Yes, Jake, indeed, what's with your oil... inquiring minds want to know! BTW, sorry for the situation and hope you get it resolved right quick! | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
i was running the HD syn, u know the same one that took out Zac's cam...NEVER AGAIN!!! amzoil here i come... xnoahx, i babied it the whole way home, im just glad it went REALLY close to home, instead of out in the boonies... Jake | ||
| Xb984r |
"i was running the HD syn, u know the same one that took out Zac's cam...NEVER AGAIN!!! amzoil here i come... " I am going to go out on a limb and say that the HD syn had nothing to do with your problem nor would Amsoil have prevented it. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
yeah i know, but after the research ive done, i just dnt trust it...im just anxious to see wat the culprit was... Jake | ||
| Robr |
I sincerely doubt it was the oil. | ||
| Skylerxb12r |
"i was running the HD syn, u know the same one that took out Zac's cam...NEVER AGAIN!!! amzoil here i come... " Well THERE'S your problem! You should try running NEW oil. I never recommend used oil, especially if it has been in an engine with a part failure.  Seriously though i can't imagine the oil being the culprit here. If SYN3 were the cause we would have seen a lot more than just a handful of failures. As a matter of fact the fact that you are running SYN3 probably helps you in this case since it's what is recommended in the manual. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
haha i knew i shouldnt of run used oil but i figured since it was synthetic it could take it hahaha lol.. thats the only reason i run it, is in case stuff like this happens, thats just one less thing they can say to try and stiff me(although i have complete faith that neither BMC or my dealer would do that to me) Jake | ||
| Court |
It wasn't the oil. Should be no problem getting it fixed pronto. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
Yeah i REALLY hope so, because im already going threw withdraws...and i feel almost like im on house arrest because i live in the middly of no where, and i dont feel like driving my truck, just in case it takes a crap on me too, im just glad my job is a mile away lol. THANX Jake | ||
| Puredrive |
Court It wasn't the oil. Should be no problem getting it fixed pronto. 20W-50 on these engines seems a bit thick IMO. Most other water cooled V-twins use 10w-40 or a 15w-50. | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
we run 15/50 MOTUL 300V..... RUNS AND SOUNDS GREAT!! i would not use amsoil...just my $.02 JT | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Most other water cooled V-twins use 10w-40 or a 15w-50. 15W-50 and 20W-50 are both 50 weight oil- that means at operating temp they are both 50 weight. The winter (W) number refers to the oil's viscosity at it's lowest tested pour point, which in Amsoil's case is minus 58 degrees F. That means both oils are the same except down to -58F the 15W is a 15 weight oil, and the 20W is a 20 weight oil. The higher the ambient temperature, the higher the viscosity you want in order to maintain sheer stability and load-bearing capacity. That means using the heaviest weight oil approved by the manufacturer- which in Buell's case means a 50 weight oil. Therefore 50 weight oil (15W or 20W- it really makes no difference) is the best weight oil to use in a Buell unless you live somewhere that never gets hot (or for winter riding), in which case the 40 weight oil may be more appropriate. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
RBJ- GREAT info, i did not that before, very insightful  Also to add insult to injury i just realized all of this happened on our 1 year anniversary , also the bike had just under 11,000mi. like 10,952 if i remember correctly... Jake | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
WHAT OIL WERE YOU BURNING? There. Fixed it for you.  | ||
| Doctorneon |
I have worked on engines for many years now, and have never seen any engine failure due to the type of oil being used. ONLY THE LACK OF OIL. just my three cents worth(inflation don't you know). After all oil is a slippery subject. PS; sorry to hear about the problem, please let us know what the outcome is. | ||
| Unibear12r |
Actually 20w-50 is a 20 weight oil and 15w-50 is a 15 weight oil. They have added polymers that thicken with increased temps. These polymers wear out over time reducing the oil weight at higher temps. Run long enough or under hard enough stress a 20-50 oil will be little more than a straight 20 weight or 20-30. There are two (at least, perhaps more now) different classes of polymers used. One class gets the oil from the base stock up to 30 weight and the other works to the 40 or 50 range. The polymers that maintain the 40 to 50 range wear out far faster than the 30 weight class so by the time most people change their oil it's down from a 20-50 to a 20-40 or even 20-30. Around 2000 GM started putting in their owners manuals that they would revoke warranties for damaged engines with multi-weight oils over 30 weight in them due to the unreliable nature of the heavy class of polymers. GM is the only auto maker I've heard of to threaten to revoke warranties or claim posible engine damage tho. (Message edited by unibear12r on July 02, 2009) (Message edited by unibear12r on July 02, 2009) | ||
| Pariah |
I made the mistake of getting Motul Twin Syn 20W-50, thinking it was a full synthetic. It's not, it's a blend. It's going directly to the city's oil disposal site. So I'm now going with Redline 20W50 Motorcycle Oil... if anybody knows this is wrong for the 1125R, please let me know...  | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Comparing multi-grade mineral oil to 100% synthetic oil is an apples to oranges argument. Because pure synthetic oils are created in a lab and are engineered on the molecular level, the manufacturer has the ability to design the lubricant to perform to their desired specifications (basically boutique oil). Mineral oil became multi-grade when polymers were added to it to keep its straight-weight properties from thinning when the oil heated up. These "viscosity modifiers" are extremely important to mineral oils- without them the oil doesn't flow well when cold and loses viscosity rapidly when it gets hot. How the polymers work is the molecular strands are coiled up and allow the base oil to flow freely when the temperature is low (the corresponding W number), and the strands unwind and help keep the base oil from thinning below the desired weight (the actual weight, or straight-weight number) as the oil heats up. The top-line synthetic oils, like Amsoil, are chemically engineered using the best synthetic Group IV PAO base oils into what is essentially a straight-weight oil. The difference between the mineral and synthetic oil properties is that, by design, the synthetic oil has ability to flow more freely at lower temperature than the mineral oil does- without modifiers. The result is (for example) a 20W-50 synthetic oil is actually a straight 50 weight oil that has the ability to flow as freely as a 20 weight oil at low temperature. A comparable multi-vis mineral oil is actually thinning and thickening (from the polymers) in order to maintain its viscous properties. This chemical change causes stress and the polymers eventually wear out, causing the mineral oil's operating viscosity to decrease rapidly. The 20W-50 synthetic oil is pretty much a straight 50 weight oil that flows really well when cold. It lasts much longer than mineral oil, and is superior in all aspects. Yes, synthetics do have polymer additives, but they have a much easier job to do because the base oil has superior properties to the mineral oils. So, I would define a 20W-50 mineral oil as a 20 weight oil that has additives that "thicken" it to 50 weight at operating temperature, and a 20W-50 synthetic oil as a 50 weight oil that has the flow characteristics of a 20 weight oil at it's lowest pour point (-58F for Amsoil). | ||
| Zac4mac |
I have no problem with Red Line. I put Red Line 10W-40 in last fall, just changed the oil - RL 20W-50 for the warm months ahead. If I lived in any further South, I'd probably run their 20W-60. The ONLY reason I quit using Syn3 was a lack of viscosity options. Zack | ||
| Badlionsfan |
Who here knew that synthetic oil is actually mineral based, just refined further. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
Well i found out what happened everybody... When i was riding the valve broke off, and fell into the cylinder, where it proceeded to put a hole into the piston, then it went through the piston into the bottom end, where it took out the rod bearings, and basically the whole bottom end!! Bright side- it is completely covered under my warranty, and i will have my engine in about 10 days , and up in running within about 2weeks The dealer has NO IDEA what caused it to happened...i have a few theories: 1. The CR recall that involved the cam chain(yes i have an R), because unless someone can point it out to me, i believe that there is NO difference between the R and CR engines. 2. bad cam timing(although i have NEVER messed with it, it has the o5z flash) 3. or it could have just been a faulty part? any other ideas will be greatly appriciated.. and of course PICS(btw sorry for quality, cell phone pics)...     btw- the dealer doesn't know where the top of the valve went lol... Thanx Jake | ||
| Oddball |
ouch |
