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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through June 10, 2009 » Heavy Throttle Springs « Previous Next »

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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 07:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone else notice how stiff the throttle springs on the 1125r are?

I'd not really paid much attention to it until I started riding on the track a lot, and now my throttle hand suffers an enormous amount of blistering at the top of the palm right below the fingers.

I've tried several pairs of gloves -- it's basically just a "wear" thing from being on and off the gas so much.

So, I'm looking for a way to lighten this without risking some other damage to the bike. The main concern being the springs are stiff because of the mechanical linkage into the air intake or something like that and shouldn't be lightened.

Go grab the throttle of several other makes of bikes to see what I mean. Relatively, the controls on the 1125r are pretty stiff.
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Bcrawf68
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, the throttle return spring is a little heavy. I use a cramp buster to help out. You can probably get one at your local shop or here: http://www.crampbuster.com/
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 08:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hmm, three things to look at:
1) Lube your cables.
2) Lube the t-body linkages.
3) Make sure the breather hose on the right side of the airbox is sticking up at least a 1/4", otherwise it can rub on the linkage.

Later
Neil S.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The throttle is push-pull.
You are racing, right? Have a dead-man switch?
Remove or disable the spring, you don't need it.
The big one on the right side.

Haven't tried it, just guessing...

Z
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R2s
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya, the throttle is stiffer than my duc. I noticed it right off. I might put a helper spring to help reduce the pull.Its not friction. you would'nt feel that at a set position.

(Message edited by r2s on June 02, 2009)
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Spectrum
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Throttle pull gets a lot easier once de-noided.
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 08:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> Throttle pull gets a lot easier once de-noided.

How much of a difference does it make? Is it dramatic or subtle?

I actually had the 'noid kick in a couple of weeks ago. At Cresson, a local track with more high speed sweepers than tight turns, I came out of a turn called Big Ben full throttle in third and the bike just gasped and died. Caught me totally off guard.

So, I've been thinking about the de-noiding, anyway.

I would like about half of the total throttle spring tension -- does denoiding make that much difference?

Have any opinions on the definitive documentation of the de-noid procedure here?
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Spectrum
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 08:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is a significant difference. In my opinion it does reduce the tension by at least 50%, but that's personal feel, not scientific. Take the air box off and just unhook the cable from the noid to the throttle linkage to test.

I had a hard time figuring out exactly what to tie off to lock the throttle bodies from the instruction I found here. Maybe someone else could provide better pictures and instructions.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Remove the airbox, the remove the base plate.
The base is held in place by a large grommet around the throttle bodies.
The baro-sensor has a tab that is stuck in the rear part of the base and there is a cable-guide that needs to be freed up.
You can see everything once the base is off. Go slow and feel your way.

I left the 'noid in place, but removed its cable.

The throttle cams to tie together are on the rear body, left side.
A piece of tie-wire will do, I used a 4" zip-tie.

If you hold the butterfly on the front body and turn the throttle, you'll see the 2 cams to tie together.

I didn't realize you still had it connected.
Disconnecting it will definitely reduce the pull.

Z
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Ccryder
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had to borrow this pict from "Puzzled". Best shot I have seen.

Tie-Noid


Neil S.
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