| Author | Message | ||
     Eagle1 |
I'm not talking about taking off like a bat out of hell right after you fire her up, but taking it off and keeping it under the 5K rev limit till the CT hits 150. I make a lot of short trips, and it's getting to the point of annoyance having to sit and wait for 150 every time What do you guys think? | ||
| 1_mike |
Sure...just take it easy. I leave my driveway before the readout goes into the "drive" mode. The engine readouts don't come on for about another roughly a mile, depending on the ambient temp. I just keep it below 3000rpm...which is easy to do in the area around my house. Mike | ||
| Cataract2 |
You can go to 6K until the flashing Cold disappears. After that, just play. | ||
| Brapbrapbrap |
nope | ||
| Xl1200r |
Interesting. I always wait... maybe i don't need to? | ||
| Buellrcr |
no you should wait till the bike gets up to temp. it will keep the motor from leaking,oil from gaskets, lets the coolant start circulateing | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Don't know if it's mandatory, but I had good luck mechanically with 2 Buells approaching total 40,000 miles. It is a good practice and the motor generally comes up to temperature if I put on my gear s-l-o-w. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I know it does your spark pugs a big favor. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
I just start slow, but I do live in a warm climate... I did find on a couple of occasions that there is a soft rev limiter at 7500 RPM until the "cold" flashing stops... R | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
"I just start slow, but I do live in a warm climate... I did find on a couple of occasions that there is a soft rev limiter at 7500 RPM until the "cold" flashing stops... " I always thought that was mis firing from the motor being cold | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Seems pretty easy to start the bike FIRST and gear up rather than the other way around. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Seems pretty easy to start the bike FIRST and gear up rather than the other way around. This is how I've done it with every bike I've owned. I don't usually wait more than a minute or so after I'm suited up (depending on how much suiting is needed). I'll just continue to wait. It can't be a bad habit. | ||
| Ccryder |
I start mine when I get out to it and then gear up. If it's not above 172 deg then I take it kinda easy. Except for COLD mornings, I'm over the 172deg in less than a mile. Even doing this is generous. The Engineers I'm sure have done their jobs and all the thermal expansion of materials have been calculated so that minimum warm up is required. | ||
| Chevca |
I always let it warm up before I take off, or at least get on it. Keep in my mind this is a little engine that's doing a lot of work making the power it does. I mean my Camaro which makes a little more the twice the power and its roughly 5 times the size. So if you do run it hard cold, I think your taking a big risk. | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Any engine needs good oil flow. It takes a few seconds to get good pressure throughout the entire engine. Cold oil is much thicker then warmed up oil. You want it to thin out and give your bearings a good layer to ride on. Best rule of thumb is let her idle for a minute, then take it easy until warmed up. Once warm, beat the piss out of her :-) | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Cold oil is much thicker then warmed up oil. You want it to thin out and give your bearings a good layer to ride on. Actually, multi-grade oils are the exact opposite- for example a 20W-50 oil has: SAE 20 weight thickness when cold (W=winter) SAE 50 weight thickness at operating temperature This allows the oil to be thinner during start-up, which flows easily and reaches internal parts quicker. As the engine heats, the viscosity improving additives cause the oil to thicken- and higher viscosity oil has a higher load-carrying capacity. A cold engine needs lube quickly (thin oil), and a hot engine needs high load capacity and sheer strength (thick oil). Therefore, it is not smart to start a cold engine and then put excessive load on it until it reaches operating temperature. | ||
| Socoken |
I know thats how the oil ratings work, but Im not sure I agree with your statement. If you bought two quarts of oil, put one in your fridge or freezer and the other under a heat lamp, and poured them out, Im betting the cold one does not out flow the warm one. Viscosity is a liquids ability to resist flow, but I think the 20 or 50 ratings are on a scale, not directly comparable. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
So should we change our oil when its cold? This contradicts a very well accepted tip on oil changes | ||
| Osup |
Just start her, wait a minute or two and ride her easy. After a few miles, you're good to go. Common sense really. | ||
| Marcodesade |
Can we get an anony, or at least an actual tech, to weigh in here please? Obviously you don't want to WOT as soon as you turn the key, but is a minute or so sufficient? Or do we need to wait for the temp to show? | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I think it's even beyond the temperature gauge to show a normal reading as that only measures coolant temperature. The critical thing is getting the oil properly heated before starting the abuse. It takes longer to heat oil versus coolant. I have no scientific data, but a couple minutes of riding after reaching proper coolant temperature seems adequate. | ||
| Sportshaft |
one should never start a motor and not let it get up to full operating temp as combustion causes moisture to build up in the oil and over time this literally waters it down one of the worst things you can do is start your bike for a minute to show your buddy what your bike sounds like, so when you get your bike up to temp the heat helps dispose of the moisture.As for starting warm up i run it while i'm gearing up for a couple minutes and then run easy at 3500rpm till temp comes to normal,common sense really. jc | ||
| Pizzaboy |
jeez eagle; my bike takes less than one mile before its above 150 degrees CT; which is less than 3 minutes from firing it up. ... do you really drive your bike less than 1 mile or 3 minutes from your home? if you do, you probably dont need a bike; your feet will do the trick A LOT cheaper than a >1 year old 1125r!!!! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Mornings are warming here, but still, it's 7:45 am and 50 degrees. Since I got the 09 IC for Loretta and all I get is a flashing "cold", I usually go into DiagMode, then start. In DM, I can watch the CT rise(Celsius) while I gear up. I rarely pull out before OpTemp is reached. Z | ||
| Ccryder |
Wow Peter, that's the first time I've heard it explained that way!! Is that something like water getting lighter when it freezes??? Anyway, I would like to see some documentation on your theory. Later Neil S, | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Not to confuse the topic- engines should be warm before use, but oil changes can be done either warm or cold. Warm and cold oil changes have pros and cons: Cold oil is in the pan, ready to drain Warm oil suspends impurities better Cold oil drains more completely (localized in tank) Warm oil drains less completely (dispersed in engine) Cold oil won't burn you Warming oil can be tricky- too hot can cause discomfort One must keep in mind the definition of "cold" and "hot" when discussing oil: Cold generally refers to ambient temperature- as a rule, this means room temperature (or garage temperature) and usually ranges from 65-75 degrees. Warm oil does not flow any better than the "W" weight- a 20W-50 has a minimum viscosity of 20, and a maximum of 50. Hot means operating temperature- and for oil viscosity rating the standard is 210 degrees F. It is easy to confuse "cold" with an oil's "W" rating, or lowest pour point. For example, Amsoil synthetic oils are designed to retain their minimum viscosity down to around -59F. So, in theory you could do an oil change at minus 59 degrees with Amsoil 20W-50 and it would flow like a 20 weight oil. If you change it at 75 degrees- it's still 20 weight. If you warm it, it will thicken to between a 20 and 50 weight. So, the differences between a cold or warm oil change are nominal. Oil change temperature really boils down to personal preference- both are acceptable and get the job done. The important things to remember are to change the oil regularly, and warm the engine before riding. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Is that something like water getting lighter when it freezes??? Ice floats because it becomes less dense when it freezes. Oil gets thinner and loses viscosity as it heats unless it has viscosity improving additives (VI). Synthetic base stock oils with premium performance additives (VI, antiwear agents, rust inhibitors, detergents, acid neutralizers, dispersants and friction modifiers) make modern oils truly amazing- but all oils eventually break down, and when they do they turn into sludge. | ||
| Skipthedog |
If the manufacturer has gone to the trouble of adding a start up program to the bike then why not stick with it. You know it makes sense, same as riding the bike the last 10 miles a little bit restrained to let it cool down. Oxidation of your oil is the killer. Buell's fan running after shut down is trying to stop same. | ||
| Brapbrapbrap |
I don't think I would enjoy riding as much as I do if I thought about all this so much. I just start it and go. | ||
| Pariah |
I wait... I mean, it's my baby we're talking about here, right? Actually, as Neil hinted, by the time I've finished putting my helmet and gloves on, it's practically at 150 in any case. Seems to warm up faster with the latest reflash (on the '08s), could be my imagination. | ||
| Socoken |
Some of you must wear five pairs of gloves and four helmets. I mean, I can start my bike, go inside and hit the garage door button, walk back out, put my gloves and my lid on, and the temp gauge will still be under 120. Ive always believed that riding or driving cold oil, before the oil really sealed the cylinders, allowed more corrosive agents from combustion past the rings and into the oil. Also, If the oil is warm, then you know all of the different bearings/journals/seals/gaskets are at operating temperature and within spec of where they are designed to take abuse. But, Sir Erik himself said they run the fans a lot because they might be a bit overprotective of the new engines. Waiting till 150 might be a bit overprotective too, but I always wait till 130 or better. | ||
| Pariah |
I think the difference is I'm in Texas and you're in Wisconsin... but, it's true... I do wear a lot of gear (pantyhose, lingerie, bulletproof groin cup, and helmet & gloves). | ||
| Ccryder |
 TOO MUCH INFO!!!!!!!!!! | ||
| Socoken |
Well, you know what they say..... ATGATT on a whole new level! |
