| Author | Message | ||
     Geforce |
Has anyone ceramic coated theirs yet? I went to town on mine today with some 3M metal polish that I use on my Grand National's ceramic parts and they really shined up nice. I even took it out afterwards and rode the bike through the country for about 80 miles and they still look great. I took some pictures and uploaded them to my flickr photos. Here's the link. www.flickr.com/photos/Orion328/ Just click on the Buell 1125r folder to the right. I know a lot of folks wrap their headers but I want to try and stay away from that, it traps a lot of moisture and I just don't like it too much. I don't see why these cannot be blasted and ceramic coated then polished nicely. Just an idea, lemme know what ya think. | ||
| Andella |
They look great. How much elbow grease is required for that shine and what exactly is the product name? (Message edited by andella on August 16, 2008) | ||
| Krassh |
I put ceramic coated headers on mine. Here is the thread. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/366543.html?1212001269 Just to let you know it did not change the problem I was having with boiling fuel/frame getting hot. Also if you do not mind spending the extra money I would think about ordering the '09 header with relocated 02 sensor bungs and getting them coated. | ||
| Geforce |
I grabbed it at NAPA the other day when I was on my way home from work. It's made by 3M. "Chrome and Metal Polish" Part Number - 051131 Removes surface rust, oxidation, corrosion and tarnish from chrome, stainless steel and other metals. Basicly I took a red shop rag *nice and clean* and applied a hefty chunk with my finger and smeared it around, let it sit a minute then I did the ole rub until your finger goes numb routine for a while. I got smart and wrapped the rag around the back side of the pipe and started alternating pulls back and forth and I got them done much faster. You can get the rag around all the way up to the collectors and then even near the head just keep swapping hands and you'll be done in no time. All in all I spent maybe an hour, if you go straight into it without using your finger you might get it done faster. Or use a dremel with a soft attachment? I'm gonna call my buddy back home that did all my ceramic coating and see if he wants to knock these out for me. I'll see if he can do black, but with the D&D exhaust on the way I may want to stick with a silver color. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Silver will reduce temps more than black when having them coated. | ||
| Court |
>>>>Silver will reduce temps more than black when having them coated. Oooops. You sure about that?  | ||
| Spectrum |
Silver will reduce temps more than black when having them coated. If your talking about heat from light such as the sun, this is true as the color black tends to absorb light/heat while white tends to reflect it. Not sure of this is true in the case of exhaust systems. | ||
| Nxtr |
I think that the heat issue could be solved by simply installing one of these http://www.aerogel.com/products/pdf/Pyrogel_6671_D S.pdf to the underside of the stock heat shield. Link to home page http://www.aerogel.com/ JMO, This would dramatically reduce temps, boiling fuel, and possible leg burns... V/R, Nick | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
As it was explained to me by the coating specialist the silver colors reflect heat while the dark colors absorb them. It's only a 100-200 degree difference in surface temp, but it's a difference. Of course, he could have been feeding me a line of crap- but it made sense to me. | ||
| Black_snowman |
Radiant heat is infrared light. So some of the heat can be reflected by a shiny surface. Most of the heat from exhaust is going to be conductive heat, which is motion. It's stopped by an insulating material. Jet-Hot told me the Extreme Sterling was the best option because it has both the reflective and insulating properties to make it the best heat reducer. They quoted me $250 to do both headers and the muffler in it. I'm seriously considering doing it this weather. | ||
| Nxtr |
I still think the aerogel 6mm insulating mat may just do the trick... V/R, Nick | ||
| Court |
>>>>As it was explained to me by the coating specialist the silver colors reflect heat while the dark colors absorb them. That is 100% correct . . . you just left the Thermodynamics class too quickly. Go back and ask him what black and white do with heat once they GET hot. . . . black gives up heat much faster. Guess what process you are engaged in when you are trying to dissipate heat from a surface? | ||
| Ponti1 |
black gives up heat much faster Interesting. Did not know this...I actually thought the heat shield on the '08 1125R was done in "horrid" silver specifically because it was more effective than "oh so elegant" black. | ||
| Zac4mac |
That's why my rear-pipe heat-shield stays cool enough to touch usually(at idle it gets pretty hot). The outer surface is black, to dissipate any heat it gets, faster, and look good. The pipe-side is mirror polished silver to reflect as much heat from the pipes and engine instead of absorbing it. Thermo was cool... Z | ||
| Jlnance |
You have to be careful here. Black is the most effective color for radiating heat. Mirror polished is the least effective. A black header is going to be cooler than a while/silver/polished header because it is radiating more heat away. But that heat is radiating onto your leg. That may not be the effect you are going for. | ||
| Zac4mac |
The idea IS to radiate on the outer surface. The mirror on the inside keeps it from absorbing the heat, then it can dump the little it gets so the surface is cooler... it works as long as there's some airflow. Basically, you are filling a bucket with a hole in it. If the hole at the top is small(mirrored hot side) and the hole at the bottom is large(black outside), you never fill the bucket(burn yourself). | ||
| Jlnance |
Zac, sorry, I wasn't directing that post at you. I think your idea is brilliant. Does the effectiveness diminish as carbon builds up on the inside? |
