| Author |
Message |
    
Nxtr
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2008 - 07:45 pm: | 
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Kttemplar, Where is the connector for the Buell noid-E? Do I have to pull the airbox?
TIA,
V/R,
Nick |
Kttemplar
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2008 - 07:58 pm: |
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Well, technically, you do not have to remove the airbox to get at the solenoid plug, but you can not remove the solenoid, solenoid cable, or lock the throttle without removing the airbox cover and inner airbox. You can unplug the solenoid and plug in the "noid-e", but you will not realize the true potential of the modification without removing at least the solenoid cable and might as well remove the solenoid while there. Locking the throttle linkage is also important, since it can move independently from the throttle. What this means is that if you do not lock the throttle, then it can move on its own and potentially close the throttle or vary the throttle position independently of where you have the throttle on the handle bar. The plug itself is under the seat toward the rear of the airbox cover on the left side. The solenoid is under the air box on the right side and the cable is routed underneath the front of the airbox and connects to the throttle linkage on the left side of the rear throttle body.
Mike
(Message edited by kttemplar on July 03, 2008)
(Message edited by kttemplar on July 03, 2008) |
Kttemplar
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2008 - 11:51 am: |
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Here is a picture under the seat of the 1125R. The plug for the solenoid is circled in yellow. The solenoid is removed and the Buell part is installed.
Mike |
Kttemplar
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2008 - 12:12 pm: |
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Here is a picture of the throttle linkage locked to the solenoid linkage. Remember that I am not a Buell mechanic or a mechanic of any sort and this is just an example of something I have done to my bike. I am providing it so others can make their own decision on what they would like to do with their bikes, based on what I have done. The first picture has the rear throttle linkage circled in yellow and the second picture is a close-up of the linkage with the cable tie on it, circled in yellow.
I used a stainless steel cable tie from Home Depot to lock the linkages together (Commercial Electric, 798-645, 6-inch Stainless Steel Cable Ties). I used to have a Nylon Cable tie, but I changed it out because the stainless steel is more resistant to weather and heat. The Nylon zip ties are good to 185 F, unless you have the high-heat zip ties, and the Stainless Steel is good to 572 F. The Nylon is easier to work with and should probably work with no problem, but it was bothering me, so I changed it out. If you plan to lock the throttles, only use the stainless steel if you can get it on there really tight. If it is not tight enough, it can vibrate loose and move between the throttle linkage and throttle stop, a possible safety hazard.
Mike
(Message edited by kttemplar on July 05, 2008)
(Message edited by kttemplar on July 05, 2008) |
Ccryder
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 12:32 am: |
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Sorry but with those shots it's REAL hard to even see where the cable tie is located. Better camera, cleaner lens or something. Thx for trying.
Neil S. |
Kttemplar
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 08:55 am: |
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Maybe this will help. If not, then I don't know what else to do. If I take the bike apart again I will try to take some more pictures, but I do not think that I will be doing that any time soon.
Mike
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Jpfive
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 10:16 am: |
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Nicely annotated photo, Mike. Actually looking at the rear throttle body, with photo in hand, should clear things up.
Thanks!
Jack |
Trw
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 10:31 am: |
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Do ya'll think it is necessary to lock the linkages together? |
Jpfive
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 11:22 am: |
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Yes. Montgomery Markel recommends it strongly, and provides clear illustration of the procedure in his install guide. He also makes himself available, via email or phone, for help with the install.
Jack |
Trw
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 04:06 pm: |
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Thanks Jack I bought the $6 Buell part.
I will be pulling things back off to lock them together. |
Nxtr
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 05:18 pm: |
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Why is it necessary to lock the linkage, if you leave the solenoid connected and everything in place, while just connecting the Buell part to the wiring harness? It was my understanding that this is the way the Buell part was to be used for track days and such. It was just the secondary benefit of not having the solenoid operate if you were to use the Buell part during normal operation street riding. This would save the users the hassles of tearing into their bike and potentially voiding warranty and possibly messing up anything else. I am sure if the dealers are installing this part they are not taking off or disconnecting the solenoid, then again maybe they are. Anyone have any dealer input on this?
V/R,
Nick |
Usmoto
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 08:43 pm: |
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I've been reading all of the threads on various problems and fixes so forgive me if I missed something. What does locking these two linkages do? Thanks in advance for info. |
Black_snowman
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 10:21 pm: |
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What locking the linkage does is prevent any outside force from separating the operation of the butterflies from the throttle control. It PROBABLY won't come up, but it's better to be safe than sorry. |
Hitman44139
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 10:57 pm: |
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This may help ....... just found it.
http://www.markelengineering.com/Markel_8B11NE_ins tall_instructions_revised06162008.pdf |
Sycojomo
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2008 - 12:24 pm: |
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I wonder, will installing the Buell part and then removing the solenoid from the bike void the warranty?
- Josiah |
Stewadi
| | Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 12:45 pm: |
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Anybody have a .PDF copy of the instructions that come with the Buell part they could post or send me?
Thanks |
Fresnobuell
| | Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 01:45 pm: |
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I wonder, will installing the Buell part and then removing the solenoid from the bike void the warranty?
Doesn't the Buell part allow one to leave the solenoid in place and just neuter its function? |
Kttemplar
| | Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 01:59 pm: |
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The Buell part does not come with instructions. It just comes in a little bag with the part number on it. At least mine did.
Mike |
Jotrevza
| | Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 08:24 pm: |
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Hi Kttemplar,
Mike, what exactly is this "Buell part" that plugs into the chassis side of the harness? Is it just a plug, or a glorified jumper, resistor, etc.? Do you still happen to have the part number handy from the bag it came in?
If my low end surging problem doesn't go away after the reflash, I may just go ahead with the "noid" fix! It sounds like it's helping out several people with this common problem.....
Thanx, Tracy |
Kttemplar
| | Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 09:15 pm: |
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Tracy,
The Buell part is basically just an end plug, that plugs into the same place that the solenoid plugs into. A little farther up on this thread there is a picture with the buell part plugged in. It is the lighter grey male piece plugged into the black female plug. If you look earlier in the thread, I posted pictures of the part and the part number. It is in the -archived through July 3rd- section on this thread, toward the bottom. The part number is also mentioned throughout this thread.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/373799.html?1215128346
Mike
(Message edited by kttemplar on July 12, 2008) |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 11:40 pm: |
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AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!
If you work on this, don't do the boneheaded thing I just did.
I was removing my lower airbox, and it was fighting back. I couldn't see what was holding it back, and in the course of tugging at it a bit to figure out what was restraining it, I found out the hard way. There is a little tongue on the fuel rail, and a little slot on the lower airbox cover. If you don't push that tongue out of that slot as you are lifting the airbox, it doesn't take much force to snap the fuel clip.
Airbox slot:
Fuel Rail, with the tongue and broken part circled
This bike was supposed to take me to Laguna Seca this week..That isn't likely to happen, need to figure out how to get another bike roadworthy by then. My S3 can probably get me there.
Al |
Jpfive
| | Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 11:45 pm: |
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Ouch, I know that feeling. I did the same thing on my Caponord the first time I removed the inner air box on it. You should get your part faster than it took mine to come from Italy...
Jack |
Kttemplar
| | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 12:12 am: |
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Al,
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I hate when I am working on my vehicle and do more damage than what I was trying to fix in the first place. I have spent quite a bit of money on heli-coils and bolt removers. Not to mention the copious amounts of money I have spent on RTV and epoxy. Hope you are up and running again soon.
Mike |
Kttemplar
| | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 12:16 am: |
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Al,
That piece that is broken looks like it may be a standard 90 degree fuel fitting. you may be able to get one at an auto parts store. Just a thought. Of course all I can see is what is in the picture and not what is beneath it on th left side.
Mike |
Fresnobuell
| | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 01:00 am: |
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I thought someone posted that the solenoid was keeping the butterflies at 80% max opening (even when not activated.) Anyone with experience a) know if that is even possible and b) would disconnecting the cable eliminate this possibility? |
Krassh
| | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 02:03 am: |
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Did a similar goof on my Electra Glide. Was trying to run the wires from my Bluetooth module from the rear to the front fairing and did not feel like taking the tank off (plus stupid me did not realize it was a quick disconnect) and lifted it to high and snapped the fuel line off at the Throttle body (which was also a quick disconnect duh!) Oh well lucky my dealer had one in stock. Must happen a lot I am guessing. Worst thing about this is I actually had the service manual for the Electra Glide but was to lazy to read it. |
Ccryder
| | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 09:56 am: |
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My ST13 has a formed tube between the upper and lower tank. Yep, 2nd time I raised the tank (just a little too far) I tore that tube. I now have a spare, just in case I get hit with the "Oh sh!t" stick again.
Al, when you find one I'll also take one. (just in case)
Neil S. |
Spudman1125r
| | Posted on Sunday, November 08, 2009 - 11:35 am: |
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Al -
I just wanted to send you a big "THANKS" for the tip. I did the "denoid" procedure yesterday and it went flawlessly, but I am 110% sure that without your tip and photos...I would have snapped that part right off. It's guys like you that make this forum so damn useful! |
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