| Author | Message | ||
     Bobup |
So if you have been reading my postings about my dead battery issue, this is the latest outcome. BMC replaced my ECM...still no explanation as to what they found. It has been 4 days since the ECM was put on the bike and the servicing dealership has been monitoring the battery level each morning, keeping the ignition in the "locked" position. The bike fired up with no problem this morning. I have picked it up this afternoon and am hopeful that this issue is now a "dead" issue (pun intended).... now maybe I can get some decent riding in since the weather is finally warming up! bob | ||
| C4bird |
Bob, I just got mine back this evening, like you, the dealer found nothing (although they didn't replace anything). I just remembered a small item that may be of some bearing. Both times my battery died, I had gone into the diagnostic mode twice, without starting the bike. Only a power cycle each time (exiting diagnostic mode by turning off the key). Not sure if it's related, but it's the only two times I have done it, and the battery was dead shortly after having done it. Just a theory... I won't have any time to test it out until later this week, but may be something to look into. I would imagine, if it is related, there would be a constant draw almost immediately. If anyone has the time to test this, let us know.  -Nate | ||
| Zac4mac |
So far(knock, knock, knock) I have had zero electrical issues. I did install a Kuryakyn voltmeter. Peace of mind is priceless. Z | ||
| Bearly |
Mine went dead once when I was out of town for six days. One thing that I observed was problem with the Security System. This really isn't good data but I will mention it. I had the Security System set to "ASK", so I was getting the 4:00 minute countdown. Just ONCE, I happen to come back to the bike some 20 minutes later and I noticed that the display was on and the timer was still up showing 0:00. This happened after my battery had gone dead and I had taken the bike to the Dealer. That MIGHT have been the issue with my serial number 142. Just a thought. | ||
| Chevycummins |
When I got my bike the battery was almost dead. It bearly had enough power to crank it over. It also would set a communications error and the gagues would not work then. I charged the battery and then it seemed ok. After I shut it off one time I was still out in my garage and noticed the fuel pump came on and went back off by itself. About 5 min later it did it again. The key was not in the ignition. A couple of days ago it did it again 3 times after the bike was off. The fuel pump relay is commanded on by the ecm. If the fuel pump is going on then the ecm is also on. I think my battery problem is related to this. The ecm does not go to "sleep" everytime the bike is shut off and that will use power. Keep an eye on your bikes after they are shut off. My bike will not do it every time that I know of. | ||
| Socoken |
I too had my security system set to ask and discovered the display panel still lit the next day. I had mine on the tender at the time, so no big deal. But if I hadnt, I bet I would have had a dead battery. | ||
| Crowley |
My 1125 has turned its fuel pump on when the ign was off. Apparently a design feature to prevent vapour lock - so I'm told by a tech in the UK. I'd love to know if the ECU update download is an effort to prevent this. Every one seems very secretive about what it does.  (Message edited by crowley on April 17, 2008) | ||
| Donutclub |
I suited up for a ride today, and guess what.....a dead battery. Consequently, I just performed the first service on the bike a week ago and I haven't ridden the bike since. I too went into the diagnostic mode to reset the service counter. Hmm, we may be onto something. | ||
| C4bird |
I'll be doing some diagnostic mode testing tomorrow. Will keep everyone updated on what I find. | ||
| Bobup |
I have not set up the security at all...nor have I been playing with the diagnostics mode...just for your info collecting I have parked it tonight and it will sit until Monday morning w/out a tender. Hopefully it will fire right up. 1st weekend after getting it back after 2 weeks in the shop and I am going backpacking with my youngest son and our Scout Troop....seems like I will never get to ride it on the weekends...the following weekend is an anniversary getaway with my better half (she won't ride)....LOL...gotta keep her happy too ! maybe some weekend in May???? time will tell (Message edited by bobup on April 18, 2008) (Message edited by bobup on April 18, 2008) | ||
| Court |
The download (should be available about Monday) addresses the cumulative improvements found as a result of data gathered from real owners bikes on real roads. I'm not sure anyone is really being secret. But, in all candor, most folks are not asking for an explanation they are asking for a discussion about "why did you do this and why didn't you do that?". I've been trying to extract from Ford, for the last 6 months, why the ECM on the Lincoln Navigator is programed to speed up when the cruise control is activated and you lift your foot from the accelerator. It's damn disconcerting, many say a potential safety issue . . but nonetheless if you want to see "secretive" I'd suggest you call Ford. The Buell folks have not only been prompt (particularly given the time it takes to gain the required regulatory approval in a number of various countries that MUST be in place, properly executed and approved prior to release) and responsive. Some avid and enthusiastic Buell engineers / riders have worked very hard. It's a "good thing". Court | ||
| Ponti1 |
Is the download a recommended change for all 1125R owners, or to correct things for those with symptoms? I had two error codes with about 100 miles showing on the odometer, but nothing since. She seems to be fine, so I am hesitant to request the update unless it is factory recommended for everyone... | ||
| Court |
More information will be forthcoming. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Okay...Is there at least an estimated date for the information to be released? EDIT: Sorry, don't mean to be a pain in the a$$. I just don't do well with tidbits of information!  (Message edited by ponti1 on April 18, 2008) | ||
| Chevycummins |
I had a reprogram done to my bike last time it was in. I always ask questions on everything they do. The dealer did not know what the reprograms do. I asked them if they could find out for me and they said that Buell really does not tell them. From a tech point of view how do I know if this reprogram will fix the customer's complaint? At least when I do a reprogram on my GM customer cars I know what it is for. | ||
| Court |
Monday. ESTIMATED . . . being the operative word. | ||
| C4bird |
Well, just got done doing about an hour of voltage and draw testing on the bike, and think I may have stumbled across something. Hopefully someone smarter than me can give some insite Tried several different things, most of which showed nothing. Here is most of the important items: -Key in "off" or "Lock", kill switch run or off, draw is .0154 Amps -Key in "P", kill switch run or off, draw is 2.00 Amps -Key in "on", kill switch off (after draw spike of around 11.0 or so Amps) draw is 7.43 Amps -Key in "on", kill switch run, (After draw spike of 11.6 or so Amps) draw is 7.67 Amps Tried my theory of going in and out of Diagnostic Mode and found nothing as far as a Amperage draw change (with the key off), but I did happen upon what may be the cause (this is where the "smarter than I" person comes in ) If you turn the key on (remember base key off amperage draw of .0154 Amps) and off, Base Key off Amperage draw stays the same, if you don't change anything else. But if you turn the key on, switch the kill switch to run (assuming is was in off) and turn the key back off, the base draw with key off becomes .14 Amps. The bike was not started during this (maybe different if it has been started, not sure). I repeated this several times, going back and forth (not starting the bike). If you turn the key off with the kill switch back in the off position, base draw goes back to .0154 Amps. If anyone can try and duplicate, please try and let us know. I am not all that savy with the abilities for a motorcycle battery to handle draw, could a .14 Amp draw on the battery kill it in 4-5 days? I know that a .5 Amp draw on a car battery will kill it in a couple weeks (learned this from a crappy alarm I installed a few years back). Could this be the cause? | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Nate (C4bird), I do believe you have something here as it states right in the owners manual to shut the bike off from running with the kill switch, not the key. Then turn the key off. I originally thought it was to keep the ECM input fresh right to the last split second, but maybe there's more to it. Good job my friend. I have not had any troubles but that is what I do. By the book. Bob | ||
| Reepicheep |
14 days from completely full to a completely discharged battery. (thats an educated guess, but probably not a bad one). | ||
| Sleez |
at .14 amp draw, you would get approx. 85.7 hrs of capacity on the spec 12 amp/hr battery in an 1125. at 2.00 amp draw, you would get approx. 6 hrs of capacity. i say approx. because starting voltage,temp and amp rate can have a big effect. i have done extensive calcs in the past when i worked for GM in the EV program. (Message edited by sleez on April 18, 2008) | ||
| Chevycummins |
Sleez, were those calculations for a 100% charged battery, or a 80% charged battery like GM usually uses? | ||
| Sleez |
i just used the capacity rating which is usually given as the C/1 with a fully charged battery, not overly scientific but why i stated approx. GM usually assumed an 80% discharge level from full voltage to increase battery life. (lead acid) different for the Nickel Metal Hydride of course. so they rated the amp/hour rating based on that 80% discharge level, not an 80% starting voltage. | ||
| Bobup |
mine was dead in 5 days | ||
| Chevycummins |
C4bird, I just was looking in my 1125R electrical book and it looks like the kill switch only has power in the on position of the key switch. Thats strange that the position of the kill switch makes a difference on the voltage draw when the key is turned off. | ||
| C4bird |
Thanks Bob, glad I at least found something. Nearly an hour of messing with it without anything sure was starting to get frustrating. Thanks Sleez! At 87 Hours battery life, then the battery would easily be dead in the 4-5 days my bike sat both times. I always shut the bike off with the kill switch, then turn the key off. Both times it died I was messing with diagnostic mode, so I probably messed with the kill switch as well during that time, and just happened to leave it on run when I turned the key off. Now I'm wondering if everyone's bike does this, or is it just a select few.  | ||
| C4bird |
Chevycummins, If you switch the kill switch back and forth between run and off with the key off, it doesn't make a difference, stays at .0154 Amps. It's only when you have it in the run position and key on, then turn key off keeping the kill switch in the run position that it registers a difference. Maybe something with the ECM, or a solenoid that is being powered and stays that way?  | ||
| Bobup |
I have NEVER (well OK, maybe once or twice) used the kill switch to shut it off......maybe I will have to start using it...I will know more next Monday morning if it cranks fast...or slow....or not at all. I also have NEVER used the kill switch on my XB.... (Message edited by bobup on April 18, 2008) | ||
| Doerman |
Hmm... very interesting findings. I never used to bother with the kill switch. When I got the 1125R it was also a first for me to read a motorcycle owner's manual from cover to cover. During that read I picked up on the fact that they specifically stated to use the kill switch first and then turn the key off. I have been doing that on my eleven ever since I got it. For whatever it is worth, I've had no battery discharge problems on mine during 4 months and 5K miles. The longest it has sat still is 6 days. | ||
| Jackbequick |
I always use the engine kill switch, it is a habit and I don't even think about it. Not to preach, but I occasionally get to give advice to newish riders and always tell them to use the kill button to stop the motor. When they ask why they should do that I tell them that a time will come when they will want to stop the engine quickly and on almost instinctive or without thinking about it basis. And that they are practicing for that event and embedding the process into their brains. I say that with a straight face too. When have I ever needed to use a kill switch on a moving motorcycle? Never. Once, seated on the bike, I lost my balance and fell over in the garage and I stopped the engine without thinking about it. Another time, I had worked on something on a friends bike and had unknowingly snagged a throttle cable housing on the edge of (instead of seated down in) an adjuster. It started and up as a runaway and I killed it. But it is a good habit if you think about the things that can go wrong. I'll bet nearly all of us have used it quickly or wanted to use it quickly at least more than once. Jack | ||
| Reepicheep |
Wow... stock battery is only 12 Amp Hours? I thought they would do better then that. I could get that much with 12 AA NiMh rechargables. They wouldn't have the cranking amps though... Excellent info! That could explain the odd and seemingly random 4 day shelf life of some 1125's. |
