| Author |
Message |
    
Vincent
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 10:39 pm: | 
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i do not believe you will see much gain sheridan. The whole reason this thread was started was because mine was hanging up causing my WOT to max out at 80% instead of 100%, so unless yours is hanging up, then I wouldn't expect much of a HP gain. |
Dtx
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 10:43 pm: |
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Good point JJ. But XB9 stated it seemed to smooth out the rougher spots in the lower RPM range.
Not sure if I am going to disconnect mine yet. If anything, it will at least make the throttle lighter and easier to rotate. |
Nickcaro
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 10:49 pm: |
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anyone get any pictures of this cable procedure? |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 10:49 pm: |
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I also was having trouble with my throttle hanging up and removed the cable yesterday and now I know when I give it full throttle it is full throttle,
the noise I got is from taking the inner air box off and the plastic piece that goes around the gas filler.
sounds awesome when I give it a good twist but have not raced the bike yet so do not know if I gained power,
I plan on going to the dealership on the 26 and hope to get it on a dyno and then see how much power it is putting out.
Mike |
Slypiranna
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 10:58 pm: |
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...minimal performance gains (noid) but a gain is still a gain and to answer that question, there feels to be a slight gain. Haven't dyno'd yet...finishing the pipe before I do. I will be doing baseline comparisons on all mods.
This noid mod should help out more in tuning once we have a programmer...I think 1125-r.com has one about ready for release.
My rev limiter by the way still works and in my opinion again, this little gadget is just there to meet epa noise requirements.
Bad to the bone exhaust is kinda taking most of my time but the resistor is one on priority list.
Concerning the airbox inlet...poor design UNLESS you are at speed. In town/slow riding, mostly hot air enters from the radiators right into the intake track...just look at your ambient temp as that is where that sensor is located, right at the inlet.
When I say poor design...well, they were limited to the design and NOISE restraints so it is understandable...but correctable non the less.
The area of the intake is correctly sized for the intake as designed...just too hot for me to leave as is.
By now, I think most know that a cold air intake system picks up a noticable difference in performance. It is also true that for every degree difference in intake air temp, egt's follow suit. So, new air intake system is also in the works and far simpler than the stock assembly to service.
All items will be completed within four weeks time...that is the deadline.
I will post pics, dyno numbers and final results by then.
Thanks Buell for a bike that can use the little things like these to keep some of us outta trouble! 
Peace out, mm |
Bigblock
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 11:25 pm: |
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Well, what I'm really wondering, is does it help fuel mileage? I am getting a lousy 30 to 32 mpg, and I just paid like $4.11 a gallon today, the only thing I miss about my M2 is getting 45-50 mpg.
I would be more than willing to pull the cable and/or the inner airbox if it will give me an mpg gain...
I am uhconcerned about noise and improved mpg is effectively improved emmissions (less in, less out...) |
Slypiranna
| | Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 11:31 pm: |
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No gain in mpg. |
Sheridan_bueller
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 02:07 am: |
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Thanks for the info, Gents.
JJ |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:09 am: |
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Bigblock I was riding the highway and I had it in instant MPG mode and I was getting 42 to 45 MPG,
if you get right in the right place besides a truck or behind you can get allot more,
if I was running out of gas I would get in the zone right behind the truck and it almost will pull you along and will get allot better gas mileage,
I do not do this anymore, and do not advise anyone to do so, but it is nice to be going fast with no wind and no wind noise,
I think if you had a CB radio and was in contact with the driver and he knew you were back there then maybe I would try this,
I use to do it when young and my eyes would be on the brake lights of the truck and I ready to brake,
I am curios to how many MPG I would get doing this?
Now riding around town I get bad gas mileage because I am riding it like it is wants to be ridden,
the price to pay to have fun.
Mike |
Dtx
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 05:50 pm: |
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How do you get the air box base off?
On the XB's I just took the 4 screws out and then pulled it up over the rubber velocity stack.
The 1125R seems to be a bit different since the velocity stacks are not rubber. How do you get the base out and over the stacks?
Thanks! |
Krassh
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 06:03 pm: |
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Take the front screws out after the inner cover is removed. Very carefully start working it up. Remember yo have the rubber grommet, the breather hose, an electrical/fuel? part and a wiring harness that will all hang up removing the lower airbox plate. Also there is the duct work in the front that goes to the pods. |
Dtx
| | Posted on Monday, April 21, 2008 - 09:48 pm: |
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Krassh (and all):
I haven't attempted this yet, but going off of memory does the air box base even fit over those enormous throttle body stacks? I wasn't sure if you have to take off the velocity stacks or not. You make it sound like the base will slip right over the stacks once the rubber seal is separated (much like on the XB's).
While on the topic, has anybody else disconnected the solenoid with favorable results? |
Krassh
| | Posted on Monday, April 21, 2008 - 09:56 pm: |
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There is no velocity stack at least nothing that needs to be removed there is a rubber piece that goes between the throttle bodies and the airbox baseplate. I used to get a dead spot (best I can explain it) somewhere around 4K to 4.5K. Also throttle off idle and down low was not very smooth. Seems much smoother since and have not had that stutter or dead spot again. |
Dtx
| | Posted on Monday, April 21, 2008 - 10:00 pm: |
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Cool...thanks.
I'll probably make this change sometime this week. If that stutter/dead spot at 4K disappears then it is well worth it. |
Dalton_gang
| | Posted on Monday, April 21, 2008 - 10:18 pm: |
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After I disconnected mine I noticed that the bike wouldn`t pull 2nd gear wheelies on it`s own. I was having to pull on the bars to get them up. I have since hooked the cable back up and the bike still won`t pull them up with out help (usually).
I`m starting to think that it is the warmer temps and my suspension settings that are resulting in my lack of lift at 6500 rpm in 2nd.
I didn`t think that disconnecting the cable made much difference but the next time that I have the airbox opened up I think that I will disconnect it again and try it for a while. |
Mquack996
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 10:59 am: |
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DTX
When you remove your airbox be careful with the fuel rail attached to the back of the box, next to the map sensor. Just lift it out of it resting place. Also when putting the base plate back on, put the rubber on the base plate first. Make sure your IAC (hose is on the right side of the airbox)hose is set to 10-11mm above your airbox. If it rubs on your throttle linkage and your butterflies will not open all the way. Not sure if matters if you disconnect the solenoid or not. Also after installation of the base plate, check the throttle butterflies to make sure they open fully. Go to WOT in a fast and slow motion. if they open all the way your good to go.
P.S. the front snorkel needs to come off(under front fairing) and it is kind of pain to put it back on, just wiggle it a bit you'll know when it is in place. |
Nickcaro
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 11:23 am: |
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anyone ever get any photos of this?
I went looking in there and nothing made sense to me, so I left everything alone.... |
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