| Author | Message | ||
     Arillius13 |
So with all this talk of Interex's bike and Baggermikes bike having massive issues I decided to look at mine today. Ive just ridden it, havent checked the valves or error codes since ive put miles on it. So I start the bike in diagnostic mode and boom, I have 2 error codes in there: COMM ERROR U0001 and FUEL PR SYS ERR P0087. I dont remember seeing those when I first got the bike in end of december. I now have 182 miles on it. On another note. With those codes being there I decided to take a look at the valves so I tore all the airbox crap off. It looked really clean, no oil or dirt/sand in the box or on the filter, so I pull the filter off and open up the throttle bottles to take a look. I see my valves and they are black. Carbon build up or whatever, I have no idea. They look kinda like what Interex had posted only my intake ports or whatever are alot cleaner, but my valves are coated black sticky gooey lookin crap. Im at a loss on what to do at this time. I dont want to get stuck taking it to the dealer right now. Any idea why valves with only 182 miles on them would look like this? Or what those error codes are? The bike runs ok it seems, but its hard to tell from only 182 miles and the super cold weather we have here since I have to ride extra careful due to weather and break in. | ||
| Donutclub |
Were your last couple of rides fairly short? It sounds like it's running rich, which would be the case when it's cold. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Or your oil is overfilled and you're sumping oil and/or vapor into the intake. +1 on the short rides - if you've only got 182 miles on the bike and have taken more than four or five rides...you've been taking short rides. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I had both those error codes a couple of months ago, they have cleared themselves over time. I have a hunch the pressure code comes from trying to start the engine before the little red light on the dash goes out. When new, the 1125 motor is quite tight and until the valves and rings seat, she's gonna be hard to start. My valves were blackened too, but I can see brass on almost half. Be patient and don't touch the gas until she's warmed up - ie CT quits flashing. If she starts then quits, wait a few seconds and hit the button again. I flooded mine twice, trying to get her to start. Check your oil level, try to make your break-in rides fairly long so the fluids circulate and move the dirt. At 182 miles, I would strongly recommend changing your oil now AND at the 600 mile first service. I dumped mine at 500 and 620, at 500 it was ugly, wished I had dumped it earlier. Oil at 620 was very nice and clear. Make sure the air filter is completely sealed, the intakes are big enough to suck in large birds, and sand. Enjoy the ride Z (Message edited by zac4mac on February 23, 2008) | ||
| Interex2050 |
Mark, I would wait until they are done with mine, and we have a clear cause to the valve deposits... Also keep a watch over the valves, for example check them after a longer ride. I agree about the warm-up, let her warm up till she is within operating temperature. As well as waiting for the red light to go off and not touching the throttle. Make sure you are using good gas, i.e. Chevron. And if they do not clear up, when you take it in there will be a procedure/solution to the valve deposit issue. (that way you do not have to be a second guineas pig) Best, Peter | ||
| Arillius13 |
As far as distance of rides go, Id say its a 40 mile a time average. Just all depends on how cold it gets at the time. Its been below zero for about 2 months straight now. Make long rides hard to get in here. I changed my oil at 100 miles, used 3 quarts, everything checked ok. Oil was a soupy brown looking color. Im going to change it again today I think. As far as discharge into the airbox, dont think its that really, my airbox is dry and rather clean like I said above. No oil no dirt, and no debris. So I know the airbox is sealed. No open spots on either side and the rubber is all the way down in the area its supposed to go into. I always let it warm up until well after the CT stops blinking, and never start it before all the lights turn off. Its same process as with my XB so I'm used to waiting to start it. I never rev the engine or move the bike or anything before 151 degrees or whatever it stops blinking at, so it being cold is not an issue. Peter, I think ill go with your advice and see what pans out with your situation before I take it into the dealer or anything about the valves. Maybe ill get lucky and the codes will go away like Zac's did. I'll just have to wait and see if it all clears up...Thanks.. | ||
| Interex2050 |
Mark, I hope it all works out. Best, Peter | ||
| Sheridan_bueller |
I think there is just a bit of leakage going on in the new engines, (normal). My first oil change @200 miles reeked of gasoline. Second @600 actually smelled like oil and was quite clean compared to the first. Valves are bright and brassy now, they were carboned up around the seats before the full break in. JJ | ||
| Spatten1 |
My first oil change @200 miles reeked of gasoline. That would concern me. I don't think oil protects metal to metal surfaces when diluted with gasoline. How is gas getting in the oil? That is crazy. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Sheridan, did your bike flood a few times? Could that cause some gas to run past the rings and into the crank case? | ||
| Sheridan_bueller |
Spatten, I'm quite sure it was just the new engine not being seated and broke in at that point. I always smell the oil in my vehicles when I check them. Weird. When I noted the gassy smell in my bike, I changed the oil. Syn3. Haven't had any smells other than the oil smells since. This took place at about 150 odo miles so I was far from broke in. Had filters and Syn3 waiting at home for such an occasion. I have flooded it a couple times after having run the battery down by leaving my key on and playing with the ODIS. I'm sure this was the cause. This was the first oil that came with the bike so it was time to change it anyway. No gassy problem smells in my oil since, almost 2000 miles now and running better than ever. JJ | ||
| Doerman |
Just a comment and it is not to be a smart a$$ or anything. For me, this is the first motorcycle I have owned where I can actually visually inspect the top side of the intake valves. I would not know what a healthy intake area should look like or should not. Is too much being made out of something as a result of being able to look in there? A wisp of oil mist seeping in through unseated (break in) stem seals might be a natural process? My ignorant $.02..... Asbjorn | ||
| Zac4mac |
I was thinking the very same thing, not 15 minutes ago, Asbjorn. I remember taking a dremel to the passages in my Sportster's heads many years ago. Primitive flow job that worked well. I could tell where I'd been, the whole thing was black when I started. When I look down Loretta's throats, I see pretty clean intake valve passages. Z Oh, BTW, put on some glasses, open the butterflies WFO, then hit the starter. heheheheheheheeh - I'm still grinnin | ||
| Cataract2 |
Hey Zack, chance you can get a vid of that? | ||
| Jos51700 |
You're going to get more oil blowby, overfull or not, until the rings are seated, as that's where most of your blowby comes from. From blowby comes carbon build up on valves. This is why you're breaking it in, remember? -and- These are not slow-speed motors. You're going to have some intake reversion, carbon build-up in various spots, etc, until you begin regularly riding these bikes at the pace they were designed for. A slow-speed motor this is not. I can't believe you're so worried about these things already. How do you plan to relax and enjoy the bike? Do you really expect Buell to sell something with so many issues? | ||
| Sheridan_bueller |
I'm thinking that most of us are still thinking XB...I know I am but getting over it. Been finding out 5000 RPMs just putting around is a good thing. Reprogramming me brain. Trying to use ethernet when I need a pic box....... JJ | ||
| Ratbuell |
Valves get dirty. Nobody aside from a mechanic ever really sees them though - very few intake ports are so well done as to allow you to practically reach in and touch the stem. Relaaaxxxx  | ||
| Cataract2 |
I would not know what a healthy intake area should look like or should not. Is too much being made out of something as a result of being able to look in there? A wisp of oil mist seeping in through unseated (break in) stem seals might be a natural process? You know, that is a very good point. | ||
| Baggermike |
Hey Guys they removed the trouble codes and have taken a few rides and no more error codes which is a good thing bike is running awesome and the charging system is holding its own but was told this bike would drain the battery with the high beams on in traffic, I left today and it was reading at the battery 12.3 volts and I was riding in light traffic and was 12.4 volts when I got home so I know the bike is good so far and need to take a long ride to see if the voltage drops down from the engine get hot. I heard Buell is working on a better charging system so lets wait and see. Mike | ||
| Cataract2 |
Mike, where'd you hear that about Buell and the charging system? That's good news if it's true. As such, it will mean I'll be more up to buying one in June. | ||
| Blake |
"was told this bike would drain the battery with the high beams on in traffic" I strongly doubt that. Then again, who sits in traffic for hours on end with the high beams on? | ||
| Baggermike |
Yes Blake that is what I was told, and that is an extra 70 watts because the low beams stay on, I can not believe that they would make the charging system this weak and someone on here said they were going to make the cooling fans to shut off to save power, how crazy is that. Buell CS told me what do you expect it is a race bike? that was news to me I thought it was a riders bike for the street made from the rider on down, now I can not use my heated gear. I also heard that they are working on a fix for a weak charging system, and the acc outlet shuts down if the battery drops to low so they had to know the charging system was weak to do this. I will be doing more testing as I got a volt meter coming and an amp gauge so time will tell, I have no trouble codes so everything is working like it should and will do some all around riding with the high beams on and see if it is true. All that I want is to be able to ride with my high beams on and a heated jacket liner and do not think that is to much to ask. Mike | ||
| Slypiranna |
Just a thought here...majority that post about the black soot on the intake valve are low mile, low TEMP climate condition...starting 95%+ in open loop...and or rich condition/below ct temp threshold...more often than those of us in the south and possibly riding less per starting cycles? First of all, if you look at the injector...it targets that zone with liquid fuel...being the engine is new, cold...and in cold climates...therefore...might not be ridden very long to really get hot and stay hot for long periods of time...LIKE HOURS OR HUNDREDS OF MILES between shutoff/cooldown to ambient cycles and so fourth and on and on with the wonder and other possibilities...YOU WILL EXPERIENCE CARBON BUILDUP BEHIND THE VALVE UNDER THESE CONDITIONS. At least thats been my experience with gasoline. Old school phrase of the day...blow the carbon outta er! Remember that...granny. | ||
| Baggermike |
cataract it was posted on here or was told by the tech at the shop that worked on it not sure with all the info that is being exchanged on here, I do know there is a guy that I can send my stator, rotor, and voltage regulator to and he can get the bike to put out more juice, I just got a catalog from Dennis Kirk and had his name on the upgraded stators for the jap bikes and think he charges around 100.00 to rewire it, it looks like the stator is easy to get to so I would not worry about it. I am waiting to see if the rumor is true and then maybe have it worked on if it is not true, we will know by then and will have it done for the fall, I am not sure? I have a blast as a spare bike because I do not like cars so I am hopping it up and putting 90% dirt and 10% street tires and metal studs from aerostich for next winter, and it heats all my heated gear real good. so I will just take the 1125 off the road for the winter. Mike | ||
| Blake |
Mike, I don't doubt that you were told that little bit of mythology. I doubt the mythology or more specifically the conclusions you seem to be drawing from it. No bike likely generates much electricity sitting at an idle in traffic, which is all that one should take from the statement you heard. Once up to operating RPM the 1125R generator specs speak for themselves, no? 432W @ 7000 rpm | ||
| Baggermike |
Blake I came back from a ride and took my volt meter to the battery and it read 13.9 volts at idle and as I increased the rpms the voltage got lower. I find this very weird and I think it is suppose to be the other way around. Blake I believe in nothing that I hear and half of what I see. And what I see does not make thence. Mike | ||
| Ratbuell |
How about a quick fix of turning the low beams off when you run the high beams? <ducking> | ||
| Baggermike |
I had asked this question a while ago as to why buell did have the high beams on with the low beams and was told for cornering in the dark. I have yet to drive with my high beams on and was riding today and when I did put them on riding on the highway the amber light would go out on my volt meter and was just a test. I was using my 90 watt heated jacket liner and did not have my high beams on or have used my high beams at anytime but to do the test. Using just my heated jacket is just 20 more watts then using the high beams. Mike | ||
| Blake |
Mike, "I think it is suppose to be the other way around" I'd be very careful about making any assumptions respecting the charging scheme employed by the 1125R. For one thing, I'm not at all confident that the output of the 1125R's charging system is perfect DC. It will most assuredly exhibit some sort of alternating waveform attributes. This characteristic makes it very difficult, impossible really, to obtain accurate voltage measurements using a simple DV voltage meter. When the engine revs, the waveform will change in frequency and that may very well be causing your volt-meter to sense a lower DC voltage. If I were you, I'd just ride the bike. It's working fine and keeping the battery charged, yes? | ||
| Blake |
For another thing, it might make perfect sense to increase voltage for low current scenarios like at idle. Total power going to charge the battery and run the electrics equals voltage times current, so a higher voltage but at a lower current would provide more power just when it is needed, yes? Then when the engine speeds up and the generator is capable of producing more current, the voltage is reduced; maybe it's plausible? I'm totally guessing and have absolutely no idea if that scenario is actually in play with the 1125R's charging system. I'm just proposing it to show that there are probably a ton of possible explanations we may not imagine that easily explain the behavior we might at first find perplexing. Yes? (Message edited by Blake on February 28, 2008) |
