Author |
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Ace117
| Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 10:00 pm: |
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Trying to Spread the word Myself and George Dan over on FB (hes also on EBR forum as gdisaac07 http://ebrforum.com/member.php?1288-gdisaac07) we have been in the works with L.A. Sleeve working a deal to start getting cylinders sleeved for our bikes. I have 40 cylinders along with new connecting rods and pistons which I ame selling as complete kits. We have got the ball rolling but need to send in all the cylinders in order to get it done, there is a kick start up ( https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ebr-1190rx-sx-c ylinder-sleeving-kit#/backers ) to fund the project. My FB is below. Check out the FB post for more info. I have been in contact with George Dan about sending all the cylinders to L.A. Sleeves to get sleeved. George got word back from L.A. Sleeve and we are a go to have the cylinders done. From the looks of it EBR was already in the works with them but it fell apart once they shut down. The sleeves will basically be the OEM fix EBR had in the works. I will be be sending off the cylinders and shipping everything as a kit those who partake. This is a great opportunity to reestablish relationship ruined by the EBR receivership. From George Dan: I talked with Dave. He is 100% leaning towards going with the spun-cast ductile. He says it's extremely strong, and he'd be comfortable with thicknesses as small as 1.50mm wall thickness. For reference, the stock aluminum sleeves in the 1190 are 3.48mm, and the 1125 has 4.5. By that, he thinks we could get 1340cc out of the motor with just boring and sleeves. That being said, we're going to stick with the stock 3.48mm sleeves and make them out of spun-cast ductile iron. This will make them bomb proof. It means we can run the engine at full attack on a race track without worrying about the engine blowing up. This is an OEM design essentially. The only downside to going with ductile over aluminum is that the cylinders will run slightly hotter. Aluminum is a better heat conductor than ductile iron. But the stock cooling system is sized for it. Cylinder set pricing: $900 for complete set of 2 stock cylinders, 2 rods, 2 pistons, and wrist pins/circlips $1500 for complete set of 2 upgraded cylinders, 2 rods, 2 pistons, and wrist pins/circlips. I will need 10 paid pre-orders in order to be able to do the sleeving. The reason for 10 is because I only have 10 complete sets. I will have 1 new cylinder and 1 new piston left over, 9 used cylinders, 8 rod sets, 1 lonely Rod and 4 new 1125 cylinders. The sets will be race-ready and the cylinder cracking issues will be 100% a thing of the past. |
Buelliedan
| Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 05:35 pm: |
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why do you need new connecting rods and pistons? |
Buelliedan
| Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2018 - 01:32 pm: |
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Anybody else find it really strange that the OP will not answer my question? |
Shoggin
| Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2018 - 03:30 pm: |
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I wouldn't think conspiracy theory quite yet. It may be a 'might as well swap them' or maybe it's an upgrade to titanium RS rods or something? |
Shoggin
| Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2018 - 03:31 pm: |
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But your question is valid. |
Ace117
| Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2018 - 06:37 pm: |
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You dont need new rods or pistons. That option is for those that want to rebuild their motor or repair it. If you have high miles and get your cylinders done and keep your old worn pistins with rings its your call. There is an option to just send in your own cylinders for resleeve, its $700 for both cylinders. Short of designing new cylinder castings this is a solution to our cylinder instability issues. So has anyone looked at the indegogo link at all? L.A. Sleeve has some already sleeves cylinders in house from when they were working with EBR. Im trying to get a price on them, but to move forward and get this started they require a min of 40 units to resleeve. I dont have $$$$$ to just pay for it or else I would. The attempt here is to kickstart the operation and create an option for those in the future. 1190 or 1125 or big bore kits for those who want them. People always say “some one should do this or that” well here we are, im doing something about it. If you want to partake and help out THANK YOU! If you dont well then dont theres nothing wrong with that. Just keep in mind that as these bikes age and parts become scarce, having an option to keep them running will be worth its weight in gold. |
Buelliedan
| Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2018 - 01:15 pm: |
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thanks for answering. I understand the need for new rings but new rods and pistons was what i was asking about. Especially new rods. |
Stevel
| Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2018 - 03:25 pm: |
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If any of you do change pistons and rods, the crank will have to be balanced. The best bet for that will be Marine Crankshaft in San Diego. They have lots of Buell Rotax experience. |
Buelliedan
| Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2018 - 04:09 pm: |
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the crank would only need to be balanced if the weight of the rods and/or pistons changes. It would need to be trued however if you change rods. (Message edited by buelliedan on April 19, 2018) |
Buelliedan
| Posted on Monday, April 23, 2018 - 09:57 am: |
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I just learned that I was mistaken. No truing would be needed as these rods can be removed without splitting the crank. |
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