| Author | Message | ||
     Jeffh |
A question regarding the updated 2001 and newer shift linkage used on tubers.. I put the 2001 style shift linkage on my '97 M2 2 seasons ago. I know Buell updated the linkage since then - but what does the update consist of? I know you need to change the angle of the part attached to the shaft entering the trans. Is the updated connecting link assembly from Buell a longer aluminum piece? Or just a longer threaded end? Of course, local dealers are of no help with stuff like this.. A point in the right direction in the KV, a direct reply, or an e-mail would be appreciated.. | ||
| Mikej |
Jeffh, I think it had to do with reducing the amount of felt pressure to shift, so it changed the angle of the arm on the shifter-shaft, that then necessitated a change in the length of the connecting shaft to the foot lever. If you can get just the centerlink that should be all you need (if I understand the change correctly). Mine shifts just fine with the older version of the newer style of shifter, I didn't care for the overhead crane-arm shifter assembly. | ||
| Cowboy |
Att: Buellskinner,You might try looking at the ground. as in my case a better ground was required. not a sputter in last 15000 mi.It worked for me | ||
| Reepicheep |
Jeff, I did the same thing you are doing, got the updated shifter, but not the updated updated shifter :/ Anyway, I was able to cobble together a nice clean fix with off the shelf hardware parts (if you have a good hardware store)... As I recall it was just one of those long nuts (like an inch long) and a short piece of threaded rod. It just extends that center vertical portion. I would post a picture, but I pulled the whole thing and put on a Banke shifter. Bill | ||
| Mark_In_Ireland |
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10458&item=2408783035&rd=1 I thought the race headers were 2.5" diameter...is this the genuine item? | ||
| Josh |
60 Millimeters = 2.362205 Inches, maybe he's refering to the primaries as 2"? All we need is a pic to know for sure. | ||
| Dynarider |
Dont forget the European bound bikes have different sized pipes to begin with. I cant recall if they are larger or smaller. But 1 time I went thru the factory & all of the euro bikes were I believe a smaller size header pipe. This was on the tube frames, I dont know if the same holds true for the XB's. Most likely if their pipes were smaller than it stands to reason that the race header would be slightly smaller than the US version as well. | ||
| Buelliedan |
If anybody is looking for a nice S2 for a steal check this out!!! http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/0/6/44062106.htm | ||
| Rex |
Dave...great job on putting the history site together...Another history segment one of these days is the early days of Buell and Harley with all of us guys...Pacbog, Bad weather bikers, sacborg, american thunderbike club, ASBN, etc. etc....back when the S-1 and M-2's were beginning and the two or three homecomings we all went to. thanks, REX | ||
| Scottatatc |
Remember the Weather Report from ATC. It's back and online. Also check out the older Weather Reports in PDF format. http://www.americanthunderbike.org/atcezine/feb_2002/archived_magazines.html Enjoy, Scott Berry Director of ATC | ||
| Davegess |
Rex, great idea, that would be a good story, Buells on line right back to the days of the old compuserve forums. any volunteers to put an outline together, gather some stories form people, maybe some archived posts etc? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Blake and the rest of you Texans,that S-2 on Cycletrader is a rockin' good deal,ya better buy it,NOW!!! | ||
| Blake |
That is a smokin' deal! | ||
| Reepicheep |
A buddy of mine has a 72 volkswagon Westfalia van and I mentioned to him a while back that his engine is very much like my Sportster engine (something I learned here). So naturally, when it started running funny, he brought it over and it sits in the garage now. I am looking over detailed technical manuals, and much to my amazement, I am discovering the Sportster engine does not suck! Imagine that! Even though they share very similiar architectures, I ran across probably a half dozen significant ways the the Bug engine (which I had venerated from my youth as the pinaccle of simplicity and design elegance) is inferior to my sportster engine. The lack of self adjusting valves was the really suprising one. Not to mention performance, the HP and Torque we get out of even a stock Buell twin is probably double the stock VW. Anyway, it is gradually dawning on me that Buells decision to keep the basic architecture of the sportster engine, but work out the bugs, was something very significant, and (to me anyway) very important. If they can pull it off, make that basic engine reliable and make decent power, they have done something really special. But that would be on topic, and I have an off topic question planned for this post  So any VW experts out there that want to lend me a hand? we have a really weird circumstance. This is an alternator model engine. When running normally, it runs OK (maybe good for a bug, but it would be embarassing for my buell). When running at high RPM's with the headlights on, it cuts out until the rpms drop nearly back to zero. If the headlights stay off, it runs fine at all speeds. I suspected voltage regulator (as it manages the greatest load at high RPM's with headlights on (I think)), but I threw a meter on the circuit (via the cigarrete lighter socket) while it was dying, and voltage did not appear to change significantly. Is it a weak alternator, just not able to keep up? The battery held a charge over 6 months of non running, and the thing fires up every time like clockwork. I got a o-scope and most tools, so I can check things out easily enough. | ||
| Mikej |
"So naturally, when it started running funny, he brought it over and it sits in the garage now. " I hate it when that happens. Have you taken it out on a road test? Does it have power with the headlights off? If so, while running at speed, turn the headlights on and see what happens. It sounds like you are running it stationary and there may be enough power to run the engine but not drive the van. Also, at night, in a dark garage, have him run the engine while you look at the engine bay, then have him rev the engine in neutral up to mid-rpm's and then turn on the headlights. You're looking for arcing and such. I've seen and heard of other VW's with bad spark arcing. You might go ahead and pull the alternator off and take it in to have it load tested. Also check the grounds on the battery, the other ends of the battery cables, and the engine grounding, and the light grounding. Could also be a weak short in the lighting circuit. With everything turned off, are you recording any current through the battery? Does/is the battery maintaining a charge? Try unplugging the headlights behind their bulbs, then turn on the headlight switch and see if the engine still runs poorly, the rest of the lights should still work but the main power drains will be taken out of the test. Just some ideas that I've done and heard of in the past off the top of my head. I'm VW rusty, sorry. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks Mike. I will try those. The vehicle is moving when we see the problem, we have not gotten it to fail stationary, though now that I think about it, I ought to try that (duh!). The battery maintains a charge, headlights stay bright even when vehicle is dying. I will look for arcing, the wiring in there is a jury-rigged mess, so that is a definate possibility. | ||
| Sarodude |
Bill- FYI, a 72 Type 2 (bus, camper, whatever) uses a type 4 engine - not the type 1 "bug" engine. This was considerably improved - though many people in the US have snubbed it in favor of cheaper, more familiar type 1 stuff. -Saro | ||
| Tavs |
Hey Saro, It was nice meeting you and Loli last night. I took off after a bit (I guess I can only take so many chromed out bikes). I'll see you guys around again, I'm sure. Tavs | ||
| Josh |
Reepicheep, Does that model have a stand-alone voltage regulator? or one built into the alternator? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Right Saro... the original engine in there was fuel injected, but that was all pulled and gutted by a previous owner. It is carb'd now. (sound familiar? how many first year fuelie Buells went this route?) It is believed the rest of the engine is original, but who knows. The voltage regulator is on the firewall, not attached to the alternator. I pulled it and made sure it had a good ground, (just like I would first do for voltage regulator issues with my Cyclone), but that did not help. Bill "trying desperately to continue to pretend this is on topic before a moderator catches me" Kilgallon | ||
| Blake |
Bill, Check the simple stuff first. Sounds like plug wires could be the culprit. Check distributor and rotor. If they have not been changed in a while, that is a good place to start. Blake (drove a ten year old orange 1970 VW Squareback in HS) | ||
| Sarodude |
Oh, one more off topic VW thing for Bill.... There were some rev limiting ignition rotors made. Don't know if they came standard on any model - don't know if they were Bosch or what. I know they existed. Rev too high, they'd stop the spark. Maybe he's got one that's going bad. A bad spring and it'd start cutting revs way early. -Saro | ||
| Bigj |
Here's a good lookin' Buell for sale. http://catalog.ascycles.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=644102 | ||
| Ray_Maines |
"Call for price" I'd like to know what that price is. | ||
| Dblhaulxb9s |
Hey, I am new to the board and was wondering what you guys thought about tires for an XB9S. I burned through my d207's in under 2000 miles. Is that about right, and what do you suggest for the most wear and the best stickyness. I live in Colorado so roads aren't always dry or clean. Thanks, Morgan | ||
| Firemanjim |
Anybody out there with Mikuni experience?I am running into problems with my Mikuni on turbo bike.It carburates well until full thottle/high rpm/boost then goes way lean.Double checked fuel regulator etc and upped main jet --multiple times--I am at a size 45 jet drill,whatever that is.Does anyone have experience with needles and the nozzle(?) that the needle fits in.Could I just need a bigger nozzle/more tapered needle?Pounding my head against wall here.Thanks, FMJ. | ||
| Vmebarry |
firemanjim, You are over-running the set-up. Try adding another carb, and the boost will run cleanly throughout the range. Or get a big SnS, or 44mm flat slide. If that is what you are already running, I punt! Barry | ||
| Blake |
Dbl Haul, Check the reviews and comments in the Knowledge Vault - Wheels, Tires, Brakes Subtopic You must be riding pretty hard. Way to go. And welcome to BadWeB. Be sure to check out the New Messages Utility for optimum browsing of the board. | ||
| Mark_In_Ireland |
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10458&item=2408783035&rd=1 What bike were they bought for? I thought the race headers were 2 1/2" in diameter. I have a S1 lightning and standard headers on mine are 2". Regards, Mark Reply:- They're for a '99 M2 & they're from the Buell race / rip off kit. I got the measurements with verniers. I'm keeping the can don't need the pipes. Would these pipes fit a 1998 S1 Lightning? Would the smaller header diameter be a big restriction on the ability of my motor which is being rebuilt as I type to attain 100rwhp? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Nope,just a 42,but I have been told by Aerocharger and another turbo guy that the CV carb works better and will make more power,so I am looking into that.But that will take time and while I am at it I would like to fiddle some more with Mikuni. |
