| Author | Message | ||
     Fj1200 |
Looking for a new front brake rotor, the current one is mega warped. Are used rotors worth the trouble or just go aftermarket? Which aftermarket options have a good track record? Thanks, | ||
| Predius |
I fit up an EBC rotor to my 08 Uly along with the latest style mount hardware, so far it's survived racing at COTA. I tried fitting a 5mm finned EBR rotor but it just fouls on the inside of my ZTL1 caliper, I expect the ZTL2 has a bit more room and it'd work fine with it. | ||
| Fj1200 |
Thanks, | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
Did you remove and clean the hardware on your rotor? Place the rotor on a flat surface to check for flatness? Not denying that you have a warped rotor but the design of the xb rotor makes it very rare to actually have one get warped. Its typically the rotor binding in the hardware that is supposed to allow it to float, that people mistake for warping. The only ones I've ever seen truly warped came from actual racebikes and factory test mules. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I have a straight used rotor with plenty of life left in it. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Pulsing can also come from pad compound - depending what pads you have, they can leave deposits on the rotor, especially if you keep your hand clamped on the lever while you're at a stop. It can literally cook pad material onto the rotor, giving you the stop-release-stop-release feeling. FWIW, a warped rotor will actually cause the hand lever to move in and out as the warp passes through the caliper, and pushes the pads out as it goes by. My money is on pad deposits. Get a roloc disc and buzz down the faces, clean with brake cleaner, and see how it does (if you don't have a roloc, use some 500 or 800 grit sandpaper). And, once you stop, release the front brake and hold the bike in place with your rear brake. I always sit at traffic lights in first, clutch in, off the front brake, right foot on the rear brake, left foot on the ground. Ready to go if something happens behind me....but no pad-bake up front. |
