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Buellzilla
| Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 09:30 pm: |
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I think manufacturers intentionally avoid making things easily accessible and maintainable with simple tools. They want you to go the dealer. You either have to spend 5 grand on tools or give up and take it to the dealer. I found that a ratchet with a long extension and a swivel socket or universal at the end works well for loosening up the footpeg support bracket, also helpfull is to loosen the nuts but not remove them entirely, since it's hard put them back on. I'm sorry this doesn't help you much now. Did you have any problem loosening the Torx screws? |
Shotgun
| Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 09:44 pm: |
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Yeah, first time around I stripped the torx screws and had to replace them. Now I'm extra careful. I haven't read all the Blast topics but was wondering about popcorn backfire when backing off from high speed down to low and using the engine for some of the braking. Feels like poor breathing. I washed the filter in my wife's dishwasher (took 3 empty rinses to get rid of the fuel/oil smell) and the bike ran like a demon for about 50 miles afterward, then began popping and snorting but only when backing off the throttle. Now I put a new factory filter on, but it still feels choked for air. Saw a note that said to change out pilot jet for next larger. Does HD sell jets or do you have to go outside? Hoping to get on the list for the "DoubleBlast" Firebolt but want to ride one first. Anybody heard when the first ones will hit the showrooms? |
Biggums
| Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 10:23 pm: |
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And I bitch at the cold when I ride my Blast in the 50 degree southern California fall here. I put the Vance Hines on my Calif. 2002 Blast. Have not rejetted yet. Its not popping or back firing while throtteling off. Do you all think rejetting is still necessary? |
Blake
| Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 11:45 pm: |
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Shotgun: Popping on decel is possibly due to exhaust header/cyl head seal leak. Pilot jets are available from Buell/HD. You might want to richen up the idle circuit to if you can. |
Buellzilla
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 06:27 am: |
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Mine did the popcorn thing after replacing the stock exhaust with the V&H. I've been waiting for Force Motor Products to come out with their ForceWinder air intake for the Blast, but it seems they hit a snag or gave up, I don't know. I wanted to do the rejetting after the ForceWinder install. I don't mind the popping. If I remember right, February, 2002 is the projected data for the Firebolt to hit showrooms. It's getting warmer over here in Vermont, supposed to break 50 today or tomorrow, Yippee! |
Biggums
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 09:03 am: |
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I called Force in Lake Havasue and emailed about the unit to no avail. Can you easily adapt one of the ones made for the big Buells? |
Arbalest
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 10:08 am: |
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Someone mentioned a 17" wheel option for the Blast. Lack of 17" wheels is the reason I bought a used FT500 instead of a Blast. Is this real, or just a rumor to get me all worked up? |
Xgecko
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 04:34 pm: |
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Arbalest actually the Crossroads site has photos of 17"er on the Blast A swingarm stretch is needed though it is wide enough for the stock twin buell wheels both front and rear. Chain conversion is also needed but if you are going to stretch the swingarm that's not a big deal. Biggums No you can't just mod a twin's forcewinder it would really be in the way (remember the carb faces backwards). From the last letter I got from Johnny Lightning they were modifing the intake to come out under the Carb...I think still forward. |
Arbalest
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 07:14 pm: |
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Xgecko, the problem with the swingarm stretch option, is that you are hanging more mass at a greater distance from the swingarm pivot. The suspension is non-adjustable. That cannot be a good combination. I just want Buell to offer a proper 17" wheel option. |
Jeffw
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 09:24 pm: |
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Xgecko and all, I normally just lurk, but wanted to add something to the discussion. I have a 2001 Blast (P-3) with a Forcewinder intake on it. Had it a year last month, and it now has about 4000 miles on it. The Forcewinder looks awesome, has been on it since new, but isn't the ideal situation. However; until something better comes along I think I'll stick with it. It does force the right knee out at about a 30 degree angle, and don't dare try to grip the tank tightly with your knees upon rapid acceleration! I did have to fabricate two brackets to support the carb, or otherwise the only thing joining it to the engine is the rubber hose. I attached one support to one of the mounting bolts at the coil, and another one down to the motor where the old plastic airbox had mounted. I then used the intake mounting bolts to attach them at the carb. This was also a pain due to the shape of the intake, but I ground down an allen wrench to fit. I made them out of aluminum strip, and made them flexible to withstand the vibration. So far, they are holding up fine, and are polished with Mothers polish. I wish I knew more about computers (part of the reason I just lurk), so that I could get some photos to post. I have also installed a Vance and Hines exhaust and a jet kit, along with Crossroads handlebars and rearsets and a few other goodies. I would love to move the rev limiter up a few hundred RPM (heeding Arrons warnings - of course), as I hit it easily in the first three gears now. I think the Nallin kit would be a lot of fun if I could sort out the ignition! I'm not much better with mechanical things than I am with computers, but have been having a lot of fun learning with the P-3! BTW Xgecko, do I understand it right. Is the cost of the Nallin kit the $500.00 for parts etc., the $200.00 for the recommended cams, the $500.00 for the head work, and any necessary installation and tuning? It looks well thought out, and with Arrons help I'm sure it's first rate in the performance arena! It would be fun to surprise some of the sport bike riders with what a lowly 500 single can really do - lol. Later Jeff Woodward |
Biggums
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 11:41 pm: |
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I just got in the mail the new BRAG magazine which is sent to new Buell owners from Buell. They have a shot at the salt flats of 4 of the buell brains standing by a Blast with a 113 mph record for a push rod single. The got 115 plus on another run. Kinda cool! |
Prof_Stack
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 11:42 pm: |
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Speaking as Jeff did of the "lowly 500 single" in his understatement above, the new FUELL magazine arrived today and had news of the Blast breaking two land speed records on the Bonneville salt flats. Aaron should comment on all of this, I think. So the Blast did 113 mph. That's amazing. Not that I'll ever attempt it (did do 92 briefly last summer) but it does say good things about the motor. So Aaron, what really happened? Prof |
Buellzilla
| Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 06:56 am: |
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Jeffw, sounds like you've got just about every addon available for the Blast and the most expensive stuff at that! Do you like the riding position now, I mean is it comfortable? Does it handle and accelerate better? It's pretty easy to insert a picture. First try to reduce the size of the picture on your hard drive by reducing the size, color depth or increasing the Jpeg compression. Try to get it down under 40K. Then when you're composing your post enter the following on a new line: \image{Text description} The text description will appear when a viewer runs their mouse pointer over the photo. When you click on the Post button a dialog box will appear prompting you to provide the location of the image on your computer. After you've found it and hit next or OK. The image will upload from you computer and appear in your post. Check out the "BBS Formatting" in the navigation tree to the left for more info. I'm looking forward to a nice long ride today. Temp is supposed to be 60º here in Burlington, VT. Probably the last day I'll see it that high until next spring. |
Jeffw
| Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 10:25 pm: |
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Buellzilla, You are correct, I have spent a small fortune on the bike, but it is worth it so far. I was a big fan of the British singles of the 60's and 70's, and rather than have to deal with restoration and/or maintanence of a classic I have been waiting for something like the Blast to come along for a long time. I was especially happy happy that it is American made and more so that it is a Buell. As to the riding position, that's very subjective. I'm sure Xgecko has an opinion too, as his set up is similar. It is definitely different than stock, but not as radical as some other sport bikes. I find it a lot of fun for running around town, but where I live in Florida there aren't a lot of curves. I used to ride a lot years ago, but have been without a bike for the last 11 or 12 years. I'm not exactly a sport rider or racer, but I really feel the bike handles well. A young friend of my son in laws is a 600 Japanese sport bike rider, and pretty good, I think. He was over making fun of the bike one day until I talked him into riding it. He was gone way longer than I expected, and when he came back he had a grin from ear to ear, and said that the Blast was one of the most fun bikes he had ever ridden. He was really surprised! I usually ride straight roads, and regularly commute to work (usually no more than one or two days a week). My commute is 150 miles round trip, and at the end of the day I sometimes wish I still had the stock bars! I find that about 200 miles a day is my limit with the current set up. I'm not as young as I used to be. I do like the set up for my commute, as the quick reflexs come in handy in rush hour traffic. I do about 40 of my 75 miles each way on a very busy portion of I-95 between Fort Lauderdale, Florida and West Palm Beach. It's kind of nuts sometimes, but I have a lot of faith in the bike. As to the acceleration question, yes it is very much faster. It's too fast for it's own ignition system, and I routinely hit the rev limiter in the first three gears. According to the speedo I have also hit 100 MPH, which I couldn't do before the changes. It was on a slight downhill (very slight in South Florida), with a mild tail wind. On the same section, before the changes, I wasn't pulling over 85 or 90MPH before. I ride the bike hard, and it has never been babied, but it has never let me down. I haven't had any of the problems mentioned on the board (poor Sarodude!), and I have gotten on good terms with my dealers Blast mechanic who has been great. I am really excited about the Nallin kit, and will give it some serious thought if I can find or figure out an ignition system to go with it. The bottom line is that the bike is a lot of fun, and it has exceeded my expectations in every way. I hope you enjoy your bike as much as I do mine. As to the pictures, I'll recruit my son in law. I think he has a digital camera, and maybe he can help get some photos on the board. Sorry about using so much band width, but I hope you find the info useful. |
Phillyblast
| Posted on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 10:27 am: |
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Jeff, courtesy of Aaron: try a Crane HI4E ignition. adjustable rev limiter. Crane has some info on their web site about it at http://www.cranecams.com/motorcycle99/evohi4e.htm |
Aaron
| Posted on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 03:15 pm: |
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Yes, one approach to the ignition system is to wire in a module that's made for a twin. The issue is that since the stock timing cup has only one window, the module will be fooled into thinking the engine is turning only 1/2 the rpm that it actually is. So if, for example, the module's rev limit is set for 6000rpm, the actual rev limit will be 12000rpm. This is not good, particularly of you've got a powerful, peaky engine on a semi slippery surface. Also, the curve will come in at half the speed the module designer intended. So to make this work, find a module that allows a very low rev limiter setting (since you need to set it at 50% of reality) as well as a pretty aggressive curve. The Crane HI4E is one module I found that meets both of these criteria. Another approach is to use a twin module like this, but carve another window into your timing cup such that you generate a wasted spark out in the middle of the exhaust stroke. Now the module sees the correct ratio of pulses to rpm and the rev limit doesn't need to be set at 1/2 and normal curves are fine. Also, as a plus, a tach made for a twin will read the correct rpm. Essentially it makes the ignition into a dual fire. A word of warning: the stock valvetrain will likely float at around 7000rpm. I'd definitely beef it up. Good luck, AW |
Blastin
| Posted on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 03:54 pm: |
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Would beefing it up mean using the Nallin head with the higher quality, larger valves? O.K. all you boat anchorless Blastards out there, time to speak up about your exhausts.(or is that speak up OVER your exhausts? ) Eventhough it is 65 degrees and sunny out today, I'm starting to gather up my information and funds for putting on a new pipe this winter. What jet sizes did you use? Does the needle jet need to be messed with? Etc, Etc. Give me the long, boring details. Here is my criteria for a new pipe: 1. It must increase performance The rest is all relative to me. All of the aftermarket pipes are all in the same price range. So price is relative, unless I come across a really good deal. How is the quality and durability on all of the aftermarket pipes that you guys and gals are currently using? The stock pipe my be huge and heavy, but it is built like a brick sh**house. I don't care about if it is louder or not, just as long as it has that sweet thumper sound. Looks don't matter as long it increases performance. I am partial to black pipes, but then again I'm after performance here. So let me here it. Jerry P.S. I am going to be doing the Nallin head in the future. Probably the big-bore kit with new cams as well in the farther out future. I want to see the look on those Harley guys when I leave them behind in the dust at stop lights. Just gotta work on getting the funds together. (Oh yeah, and trying to convince my wife ) |
Blastin
| Posted on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 03:59 pm: |
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DOh (in my best Homer Simpson voice), just realized I placed that post in the wrong place. Before that Administrator guy comes and finds me, post your comments in the Blast Exhaust section. Thanks Jerry |
Aaron
| Posted on Saturday, November 17, 2001 - 12:42 am: |
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Beefing up the valvetrain mostly means heavier valve springs. Lightening various valvetrain components doesn't hurt, either. Also, I should point out that since a module made for a twin has a 50% view of the engine's rpm, the amount of delay it inserts between seeing pickup pulse and interrupting the coil primary current will be twice as long as it should be, hence with no readjustment the timing will be too retarded. You'll need to move the timing plate quite a bit. 'Course, you had to put a new one in anyway to replace the all-in-the-nosecone stock module/plate, so the fact that you have to readjust it is a given. AW |
Phillyblast
| Posted on Saturday, November 17, 2001 - 01:57 pm: |
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Am I correct in assuming that if plan b: notching the timing cup to show the module the correct # of pulses - is taken, the ignition timing wil not be too retarded, only the rider? One other thing (running "suck squeeze bang blow" thru my head) the notch in the timing cup should be directly opposite the existing one to make this work? Having a working tach seems like a good thing. |
Aaron
| Posted on Saturday, November 17, 2001 - 02:14 pm: |
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Philly: that's correct, for the most part the timing will be roughly the same. But remember, you're talking about a new pickup plate if you change the ignition module, which you have to do to defeat the rev limiter. So you really need to set the timing over again anyway. All it really means is that the correct setting is more likely to be out in the middle of the adjustment range if you do the two-notch trick. I wouldn't put the new notch directly opposite, that would put the wasted spark in the early stages of overlap, where it could potentially disrupt the incoming intake charge (as it can do on the rear cyl of a dual-fire twin). I'd go for a little earlier, do it in the middle of the exhaust stroke. Disclaimer: I haven't tried this trick, it just seems like it would work. I have, however, installed a module made for a twin along with a standard pickup plate (32400-83A if memory serves) to defeat the stock rev limiter. Defeated it a little too well! FYI, a twin's timing cup has the windows in totally the wrong place to be used in a Blast. But the Blast pickup plate/sensor (with integrated module) has a standard orientation with respect to it's mounting holes, so a plate made for a twin slides right in and works with the stock Blast cup just fine. AW |
Prof_Stack
| Posted on Sunday, November 18, 2001 - 07:18 pm: |
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Cool and sunny Seattle today. 120 miles, 72 mpg. More leaves and some slicker roads in more wooded areas. Rode with a bud riding his Honda Ascot thumper. We had fun hitting the curves. Similar gearing made the Blast and Ascot pretty close in performance. But I sure don't like that funky square headlamp. More and more I like the concept of the "cow catcher" exhaust all underneath with a large volume. But isn't there any way to get more midrange power out of it? Any thoughts? |
Crazymike
| Posted on Sunday, November 18, 2001 - 11:52 pm: |
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Prof, Ya thought about finding an extra stocker and modifying it. Maybe cut a 6" square in the top and pack or block off some of the chambers. |
Prof_Stack
| Posted on Monday, November 19, 2001 - 01:29 pm: |
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Crazymike, actually, I DO have an extra stock exhaust from my Feb accident. It was scratched but otherwise is fine. Surgery on it? Sounds promising. Any schematics available on the innards? Packing it might be do-able. Thanks. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, November 19, 2001 - 06:28 pm: |
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ATT: BLASTERS FYI:!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Was at the DRAGS yesterday where a couple of BLAST's were running. One BLAST quit running and would not start?????? There is a bolt on the left side of engine that holds a bracket which in turn holds the air box and rear of the carb(the bolt fell off)........ The hose clamp holds the neoprne adapter to the intake manifold was not tight enough and the carb came off the intake manifold............... BETTER CHECK YOURS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or orange{Hardley}-Harley P.S. CAN HARDLEY WAIT TO RIDE THE NEW TWO BLAST (ie: FIREBOLT)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, November 19, 2001 - 06:30 pm: |
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ATT: BLASTERS FYI:!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Was at the DRAGS yesterday where a couple of BLAST's were running. One BLAST quit running and would not start?????? There is a bolt on the left side of engine that holds a bracket which in turn holds the air box and rear of the carb(the bolt fell off)........ The hose clamp holds the neoprne adapter to the intake manifold was not tight enough and the carb came off the intake manifold............... BETTER CHECK YOURS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley P.S. CAN HARDLEY WAIT TO RIDE THE NEW TWO BLAST (ie: FIREBOLT)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Crazymike
| Posted on Monday, November 19, 2001 - 11:09 pm: |
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Curiosity biting hard tonight. Why does the Blast have such a large carb? Could throttle response and mileage be improved by using something around 32-35mm? The 40mm on my old Ascot was only good if you were turning 6-8k. The Blast doesn't have a 4 valve high lift ohc. Why is it carbed like one? |
Blake
| Posted on Tuesday, November 20, 2001 - 12:27 am: |
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CV carb design effectively renders the big carb into a small carb as required. |
Bkbelew
| Posted on Tuesday, November 20, 2001 - 09:45 am: |
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hey, 2 months ago i bought a 2002 Buell Blast,, and i have already put 2500 miles on it, and exceeded the checkup,,,, i changed the oil, but i need to know how to change the transmission fluid and adjust the clutch,,,, can anyone help me?? The dealer charges way to much to do it. Brandon |
Mikej
| Posted on Tuesday, November 20, 2001 - 10:22 am: |
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Brandon, If you are going to work on your own bike, the best investment you can make at this time is to buy the service manual. In your owner's manual there should be a checklist of things to do at various service intervals. The service manual will walk you thru the various steps. |
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