| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej |
Excellent news Aaron, thanks.  One of three things if my suspicions are correct. | ||
| Blastin |
All of us faithful Blastards will patiently await what wisdom our "King Blastard" will bestow up us. Put ~100 miles on the new gasket(paper  ) last night and no leaks yet. Started off with some grub , and then all I had to do was watch Mikej almost take out a possom and then see the darn thing try to take it's chances with me. Got a little cold, ok pretty cold on the hands and legs, but it was a good ride anyway. Got to see a huge shooting star, could have possibly been a meteorite, streak across the sky. Went home and took a 15 minute HOT shower to warm up, and fell asleep reading a good detective book. Pretty good night. Only could have been better if my wife wasn't working nights. Jerry (wonderinghowtoexplainittothewife) | ||
| Englishman |
Hey there, Just picked up a Blast for the girlfriend. I have noticed a 'clunk' sound when the bike is warming up on high idle, the 'clunk' seems to slow the RPM down briefly, is this common, or should I pull the primary off to see if there's a dead mouse in there or something? | ||
| Dojodog |
Englishman - the bike has a rep for 'clunking' when you drop from nuetral to first until it's broken in (~1,000 miles in my case), and when shifting from first to second (my bike still does it after ~2,500 miles). I think it's got something to do with the shape of the clutch (though as I keep pointing out, I'm NOT a mechanic). There are several messages in the archives about reducing/eliminating the problem when upshifting to second - in my case, I throw the shift lever 'forward' instead of up/back and almost never hear a 'clunk' anymore. Good luck with the new ride. Skip | ||
| Mother_Big |
sounds like the autoenrichener trying to shut down, but not doing it? does it ever go off high idle after it warms up? | ||
| Jimalexander |
Englishman, I have a similar intermittent clunking exactly as you describe it but more at lower idle at rest with clutch pulled in as well as out. If I'm not mistaken you are describing this condition as happening at rest while waiting for the motor to warm up and the idle to drop down. Something just seems to engage and disengage while momentarily dropping the revs. It happens on the primary chain side of motor. I couldn't get it to happen for 3 different mechanics who spent some very focused time waiting to experience it. If you get to the bottom of this please make a post or email me direct at tsu9332@yahoo.com. I'm off warranty and bummed out about this as I don't want to have the motor taken apart without some indication of what to look for. Jim. | ||
| Englishman |
I'm used to the clunky transmission, my main ride is an old 4 speed shovelhead. Yes, just when it's warming up, usually when it's on the prop stand, and not every time. Occasionally, it's so violent, it sounds like the bike will stall. The idle does eventually come down from lawnmower territory. If I had to guess, I'd say it sounded like a transient spark, igniting the mixture WAY early and trying to send the engine backwards, but I have no evidence to base that on, if it was something mechanically amiss, it seems like it would come to light during regular operation. Only 650 miles on the bike. | ||
| Jimalexander |
Englishman, my current thinking is that it is a fuel dentonation issue and now that I've heard your guess I am actually feeling better about it. Thanks, Jim. | ||
| Prof_Stack |
So Aaron is privy to inside information on the rocker box problems? ! Sounds to me like a general recall is coming for all Blasts to get the rocker box gasket inspected and replaced as needed. Maybe that would explain why mine was covered with no cost even though my bike was 6 weeks out of warranty. And if not, wassup Aaron? | ||
| Aaron |
Aw, now don't go reading more into what I said than what I said. | ||
| Phillyblast |
darn, I was hoping Aaron had some inside stuff on a kick-a** setup from Nallin coming out for the Blast!(tm). Maybe call it the SWLSR kit? | ||
| Mikej |
If he says what he said when he said it then did we hear what we heard or hear what we wanted to hear when he said what we thought he said when he said what he said. I don't think I'm awake yet. | ||
| Jimalexander |
Just had the sprocket recall done by dealer. The origional owner hadn't had it done. I heard the primary chain whine as soon as the dealer started it up. Formally there was no whine but I just wanted to get the bike home so I didn't make an issue out of it. If they knew any better they would have backed off the tensioner bolt a few flats and gotten rid of the whine. I don't have a manual but I have read on an old post that the adjuster bolt is located under the left hand engine case and this is the bolt that needs to be backed off a bit. If it's that easy then I'd like to back it off a few flats to get rid of the whine. Has anyone done this? Also, now an excessive whirring noise is coming from the rear sprocket that definitely wasn't there before. Is this because it's an new belt and the whirring will subside once it gets broken in? Any help will be much appreciated. Jim. | ||
| Aaron |
Jim, The factory sticks a little spacer on there to pre-set the chain tension. According to the book, you remove the spacer and then torque the adjuster to a specific number when you do the first primary chain adjustment, then tighten the lock nut. My manual is out in the shop, I'll get back to you with the torque. It's pretty light but I don't remember the exact number. Yes, the belts run tight and can make a little noise. It may go away, I dunno. Hey, if you could get your hands on that old sprocket and belt, I'd make it worth your while. The dealer throws them away. AW | ||
| Jimalexander |
Aaron, the post I'm referring to said 24inch pounds torque for the adjuster nut but I don't know where it's located. I will call the service department tomorrow to see if I can get the origional sprocket and belt back from them and I'll let you know. With 200 miles on the bike my gut feeling was to let well enough alone and not do the recall. I hope the noise goes away, it's even overpowering the "box of rocks" engine noise at present. Are you a dealer in the Southwest somewhere like Arizona? I'll be out this winter and wouldn't mind having someone who actually knows and cares about this bike go over it. Thanks much for your input, Jim. | ||
| Phillyblast |
Geez, Aaron, you're already planning for next year?  | ||
| Prof_Stack |
At the 500 mile service, my Buell tech tightened the primary chain as per spec, but it was WAY TOO TIGHT. Noisy whine! Now I take care of it myself and keep it on the loose side of tight. I do it mostly by ear since there is no visual way of knowing when it is correct. For those who heard about HD dirt-tracker (Blast and Rotax) Jennifer Snyder and her awful accident a week ago: Today I stopped at the hospital here in Seattle where she is healing. She and her mom are hopeful of leaving Seattle Tuesday and continuing the rehab in Dallas, nearer to their Texas home. Nice young lady. I wish her the best. Prof | ||
| Aaron |
  Anyone want to buy some slightly used Blast parts? They set a world record at Bonneville! Seriously, this will be easy to fix. Today I cleaned all the shrapnel out of the motor, including the oil pump and all the oil passages. Just gotta get a new top end, and it's already in the works. Moral of the story: use a rev limiter, particularly if you plan to se the motor up to be peaky and ride it on a slippery surface. It'll spin the tire and over-rev in a heartbeat without one. AW | ||
| Aaron |
Jim, it's located under the primary, on the left side. It'll be obvious to you. | ||
| Xgecko |
I simplified my life and glued a velcro strap to the top lid of my 3 drawer toolbox. Now the Blast Manual lives in the toolbox that comes out for motorcycle work (this would be a differant than my camera repair toolbox or the other box that catches all the other tools not related to engine or camera work). I'm currently rebuilding my "Mechanical" toolbox as my previous one was stolen shortly after I sold my last project car (66 Mustang). I subscribe to the 1 tool a pay period method of replacement/buying. | ||
| Ccryder |
AW: Just a little sand blasting and a Bear-tex pad would clean that up in a year or 2(compression may suffer)! Good to hear that the lower end faired better. BTW: Where did you post the Blast's dyno chart? Neil S. | ||
| Aaron |
Hey Neil, Yeah, that would be my only concern, reduced compression  I posted it on the GDB, here it is again.  Nallin Racing 3-9/16 bolt-on big bore kit (510cc), Nallin Racing stage 2 head work, secret cams, ignition is an old FXR module I had sitting in a box in the back room (1 window on the timing cup effectively doubles the rev limit), mild, pump gas compatible compression (10.7:1). This package is totally streetable except for the exhaust. It really makes the bike a whole lot more fun to ride. The straight pipe makes this one peaky, you could add a muffler and even out the power quite a bit with only a small loss of peak hp. I reccomend using a real ignition module with a rev limiter to avoid what happened to us, just keep in mind that if it's made for a twin, it's rev limit will be double whatever the setting is. AW | ||
| Sarodude |
Aaron- I haven't run any numbers 'cause I've been too lazy to go pull out the Blast service manual... How well does that poweband work with the Blast gear ratios? Not the final drive but the gear spacing... BTW, I noticed you were looking for an old sprocket / belt set. If Loli's bike hasn't been swapped out yet (pretty sure it has) I'll send you her's. -Saro | ||
| Aaron |
Saro, Well, that powerband is a tad peaky due to the pipe. It's okay for land speed racing, though, if you shift it at the power peak you fall to about the torque peak. Unfortunately there's no tach on the bike so it's a little tough to tell where that is. I'd want a little broader powerband for a street bike, you don't want to go revving the thing to 7500rpm all the time. The old 73 tooth rear pulley is not safe on the street, I'd pull it off of any 2000 model. Plus the bike is much more pleasant to ride with the 80 tooth setup. But having the 73T gives me another gearing option for the salt flats. AW | ||
| Mavinwy |
http://www.ventura-hsi.com/fitments/display_picture.asp?fitment_id=528 As found on another board. Anyone tried one of these critters? Looks like it may fix the grab handle problem as well. Jim | ||
| Jimalexander |
My sort of local dealer is sending me a 2001 service manual, they didn't have a 2000 in stock which is my bikes year. I hope it's the same as the 2000. Does anyone know if both manuals are the same and that I can use the 2001? I can call them back tomorrow and cancel the order if it's the wrong manual. Anyone have a stock boat anchor exhaust for sale cheap? Jim. | ||
| Jimalexander |
Aaron, I called my dealer and they wouldn't give me the 73 tooth sprocket and belt. They said they send all recall items directly back to Buell. I found the primary chain tension bolt, I think. It has two places, top and bottom to put open end wrenches on and partially exposed bolt threads in the middle. Is this it? I couldn't seperate the nuts so I quit before I made things worse. Jim | ||
| Jonnyz |
Hello, I'd just like to post a quick message of introduction. I'm a new Blast owner, Just got it last sat, but not real new to motorcycles. I've been riding on and off the last 6 or so years. Having lurked here for the last few weeks, I'd like to say thanks to the group for the wealth of info here. I do have one question for the group. Those of you who have changed out the stock handlebars, to clip-ons or superbike style, did you need to replace the cables with shorter ones? Or do they just tuck behind the fairing? Thanks Jonathan Zaborsky | ||
| Xgecko |
cut all the zip ties that are on the cables and then re tie them afterwards. it isn't neccessary but it makes life easier to fit eveything in. | ||
| Jimalexander |
Hey folks, anyone in the Philadelphia area want a great deal on a 2000 Blast with 200 miles on it? $2999.00. It's yellow and inspected and ready to go. Jim Alexander 610 667 5376. |
