| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Kat... the manual has the full procedure for adjusting the clutch. It is a ball and ramp mechanism, self adjusting, so I am not sure your traditional approach to clutch adjustment will work on this engine. It could also be your sidestand or clutch cutout switch. Try excercising the clutch in neutral with the engine running, and see if anything changes. | ||
| Buellkat |
Well Guys.......Bad NEWS....sorta I tried warming it up, shifting into 2nd, my bike lunged and died, try again, and belt breaks!! I did change the rear tire prior to stator work. Could I have had the belt too tight?? and that was the problem all along?? Or do I have another issue to figure out?? WOW TIA Kat | ||
| Ezblast |
Putting the belt on is easy - constant tension - inspect your pulleys - I suspect you passed a rock type that broke the belt - check to see that the gears on the pulleys are ok - the belt is made to go before they do, but better safe than sorry - do the clutch adjustment again, with the primary totally loose on the adjustment, per the steps in the manual adjust it at both points, then do your primary. Definately sounds like your clutch isn't adjusted right. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Swampy |
BUELLKAT, The rear wheel isn't froze up or the rear brake locked up is it? I am assuming that you have been moving the bike around in the garage? You're in Newago? I'm in St Johns. Time to ride. You buying parts from Sandys? | ||
| Darthane |
Kat, you most likely need to fiddle with the ball and ramp adjustment for the clutch. The cable adjustment is for fine tuning. I had the same problem on my Firebolt AND Blast the last time I removed the covers for each, which was less than a month ago...although the Firebolt wouldn't stall, it just WENT (frightening, let me tell you). Take off the footpeg mount and remove the clutch inspection cover. Pull the spring and the hex bolt that the spring attaches to off. There's a threaded rod there that the hex bolt slides over to keep it from turning. Using a flat-balde screw driver, turn it two flats counterclockwise (I sure hope I'm remembering that right!), and try again. Once you've got it so that the clutch fully disengages using that screw, you can perform the clutch cable adjustment to fine tune it to your liking. I spent twenty minutes dicking around with it on my Firebolt before I got it back to where I want it, on the Blast I actually gave up (with the footpeg removal it's much more a pain in the ••• than the Firebolt) since I decided I was pulling the cover again and it's been sitting since then. ...you'll need a new belt first, though! | ||
| Buellkat |
Thank you TY TY Darthane, I never put the footpeg mount back on! It being the pleasure that it is....It makes good sense about turning that screw, I thought about it as I was disassembling everything how would it (the screw) be in the same position as PREvious, but one forgets as they REassemble. Belt ordered, will make adjustments. Have a great weekend!! BUELL On!!!! Kat | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think the procedure on my Cyclone is to loosen all the cable adjustments till its very slack, fully pull and release the clutch lever three times, turn the screw until it lightly bottoms, then back it off a quarter turn. Then reinstall the nut, and adjust the cable length until there is just a hair of play in the cable. Every time I do it from memory, it turns out OK. Every time I crack the manual and do it, it works great. YMMV. | ||
| Swampy |
Kat, have you checked to see if the ball is still in the holder? If that became displaced that would cause the clutch not to disengage. | ||
| Darthane |
Any word, Kat? Back on the road yet? | ||
| Buellkat |
I am NOT back on the road yet, well not on the blast, Ebay has a belt I plan on bidding on, ends tomorrow, so hopefully next week. Will update the crew. TY all for your help thusfar  | ||
| Buellkat |
Finally I have the new belt! I have tried to get that sucker on there and no luck. I have put the axle back in and have tried to spin the belt onto the rear sprocket but it is just too tight. When I replaced the rear tire earlier this season I had no problem, But perhaps it was a little stretched after 5k (hehe) much obliged, Kat So any hints or help?? we are having the most beautiful weather here in Michigan and I have not been able to ride my little buell all summer...its killing me...(pout) | ||
| Swampy |
Does the tire spin without the belt on? From your earlier posts you are not dealing with a brake caliper freeze up or a bearing issue are you? With the transmission in Nuetral does the front pulley turn? put the belt on the inside of the rear sprocket first, then put the belt on the front sprocket then start the belt on the rear sprocket only on one side then turn the wheel to roll the the belt on the pulley. Yes the weather is great for riding. I rode from Carson City to Silver Lake, up the lake shore to Ludington then to Baldwin through Newago to Stanton and back last Saturday Good Luck! | ||
| Buellkat |
TY Swampy, I have already done exactly what you described and it just seems to twist towards the wheel. As I rotate the wheel (and everything is rotating...front sprocket, wheel, etc) the belt seems to twist inward. I fed the belt on the front sprocket, fed the grooves of the belt onto the rear pulley at the front, near swingarm, and rotate the wheel towards me, and it just tugs and twists inwards like its too short, rather than feeding itself onto the pulley. | ||
| Darthane |
Kat, roll it forward...I know it doesn't seem like it would make a difference, but I found it was much easier to go in the belt travel direction than the opposite. Where in MI are you from, Kat? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You did get the right belt? The 139 tooth belt, not the 135 tooth belt from the recall. | ||
| Buellkat |
Ok I have lived and I have learned.....the belt is from Ebay and it is a 2000,my piglet is 2001. I will just order from Chi Harley and then do the adjustment to the clutch and update all of you here. I counted the teeth on new belt, old belt has 3 more. Dammit anyways....always next year!! Thanks to all of you who have helped so far. Buell On Kat | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
Okay, so I'm finally getting back to fixing my bike (I had freaking appendicitis so I kinda got out of it for a couple weeks!) how I've drilled the clutch bolts out and have the cover off, but I cannot get the clutch to come free. I've tried loosening it and trying to get it off but nothing. I also tried loosening the bolt where the cable bolts into the primary, and that's off but still no luck. Do I even have to do this to get the primary off? I'm ordering a service manual as soon as I get this figured out so I don't have to run back and forth to get parts every day. Any ideas? | ||
| Ezblast  |
Check the online manual with a link in this Knowledge vault - that would help you a lot! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
OOOOOOH KV stands for knowledge vault....I knew I was missing something somewhere. Thanks EZ! Just so you know, you're my blasting hero.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
bmhd: Sounds like you are way to far into this. You didnt actually mean "drilled" did you? Get the manual, count the # of bolts to make sure they are all out. You'll need to follow a special torque sequence on installation too (get manual). Do not try and disassemble the clutch (impossible with cover on but!?). Do not pry cover off unless you know how. Tapping with a plastic or rubber mallet to free it. 14 allen bolts must be removed in addition to the 3 torx holding the clutch inspection cover.Follow the manual on removing the clutch release mechanism. | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
I mean drilled, whoever drained the primary and put new fluid in before I had the bike rounded the torx bolts. all the allen bolts are off, the clutch inspection cover is off too. It seems to me that the primary will never come off with the clutch cable still attached to it all, and I don't have the shop manual yet to figure out how to release it...the online manual has one section (this one that I need) that it says the PDF is damaged, so I have to retry that. | ||
| Naustin |
BMHD: Good luck Dude. I keep imagining a big ••• patch of quick sand with an arm stickin out it it. I sure hope that isn't your arm...  | ||
| Buellkat  |
This is not a difficult process....besides needing a manual for the specs on torque and proper reassembly. But most of the removal process is common sense, look at the bolts holding the primary cover on, loosen the cable through the inspection cover. I am not trying to be negative, but I am female and mechanically inclined, and I did this without any real hassles. If one finds this all difficult, perhaps one should not do it themselves. Just my 2 cents and HO. | ||
| Ezblast |
The pdf files are fine - having checked them regularly - save as sugested and they will work interactively. (I just checked them to make sure - lol - section 6a has your info - you can click it directly to view it as well) GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on December 15, 2004) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you remove the nut in the middle of the clutch release mechanism? The ramp assembly must be removed to remove cover: Remove spring and hex lockplate from adjusting screw. Turn adjusting screw clockwise until you can unscrew nut from the adj screw.Remove cable end from slot in coupling. Remove coupling and ramp assembly. After doing this the manual says to remove all the allen bolts which secure the cover to the engine. | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
EZ: Yeah, your PDFs are fine, I was getting them from the FastBlast site on yahoo, when you said they were on yahoo I thought they were the same thing. BuellKat: You're absolutely right, it isn't a difficult process, as long as things like...torx screws aren't round. That adds some trouble. Unfortunately, I also don't have x-ray vision, or a service manual yet (not yet on the service manual, probably never on the x-ray vision) So it's sort of difficult to see what things are attached where inside the case. Now that I have those snazzy PDFs from EZ I'm expecting it to go a lot smoother. I certainly hope it does, I like having these retarded problems no more than you like reading about them, I can assure you. Don't take any of that the wrong way, I'm just laying it out for you. I think that was like.... .03 or .04 cents but ...oh well. Ride safe, and tell me someday where being female comes into it...? Gearhead: Thanks, I haven't had time to look at the PDFs, but that lets me know where I was missing. I thought the cable had to be taken off before you did anything else...gracias! | ||
| Ezblast |
Take your time and you'll be fine - double check and follow the manual - heck the trickiest part is the shaft seal - some put it on before - others after, flat side out - if you have a real steady hand, before is easier - lol - but the seals are cheap and to save yourself a trip to the stealership get two - in case the first one fubars on you - lol - I actually went through three - sigh - but in the end I took the cover off put the seal on then, then with a steady hand I eyeballed the shaft through the cover and brought the shaft straight through with minimum scraping of the seal, then socket tapped it gently to make sure it was still flush with the cover. Good luck! GT - GBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
Burnmyheartdown, simply......... alot of chicks DO NOT work on bikes.....thats all. Glad you have the files to help !!! Buell On | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
That's true, I guess I forget that sometimes. I first met my girlfriend when she was leaving her auto class, haha, so I forget that the whole gender thing is an issue with that. EZ: thanks for the tip. I'm putting together a list of all I'll need to put it back together so I can order it from dave all at once, rather than going back and forth between local vegas dealers.....I swear, being young and riding a buell, they look at you like an alien when you ask for something...*sigh* | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't think its just the young - if you talk to less than the parts manager - Garret at DP's in SF-CA - any mention of a Buell part without a part number will get you little more than blank stares and and puzzled expressions as they look through a Buell parts book - my wife's getting me M2 levors (black) for both bikes - to help finish the current looks of the bikes - I wrote down on a note exactly what to ask for - with no part numbers - my wife says they didn't know what I was talking about - I call Garret - read the note - he knows exactly what I'm talking about and there are 2 sets on hand - I say cool - set them aside and then have the wife ask for Garret - lol - and life goes on - its always the hard way with DP and they are Buell friendly - its just that there is a rather large city HD population and for every 50 HD in the shop there may be 1 Buell, so even their Buell mech has too much HD time on his hands - lol - they sell every Buell they get on the floor - and still they just can't see Buells as growing in comparision with their booming HD market - but they recognize that times are changing and they sell all their Buells, and their Buell mech - Mike knows his stuff - so they are trying - but they got a long way to go to match the really good Buell dealers, still there is positive effort - lol - I sure wish I didn't know what you where talking about. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
