| Author | Message | ||
     Pinkpank |
Wow - TWO quarts low?!? That is the FULL capacity of the Blast's frame oil storeage, isn't it? ;-0 Tapping - you mean beyond the normal tapping that all these H-D motors tend to do? Adam, we are about the same height and inseam (but I'm getting thicker, now at 215 lb). How do you do 300 miles? I cringe after 30! Wonder if your dealer forgot to top off oil? I've seen all kinds of follies like this now, and would not put it past any dealer to miss something like this. Maybe you should buy the extended warranty NOW before taking the bike in? Oliver '00 Red one-lung Buell | ||
| Sarodude |
Regarding Adam's post and a personal observation: Has anyone noticed if the Blast ignition fires if there's low oil pressure - like if the oil light is on? Haven't paid close attention but it seems to always wait till the oil light JUST goes off before mine fires (uh, fired). Just a thought... -Saro | ||
| Ezblast |
I live in SF-CA and three times my service dealership has blown it - Dudley Perkins. The first time was shame on me - I should have checked the air in the tires the next day instead the day after 10lbs bk tire low plus fog and no sun at 640 am equals a low speed drop in a corner. The second and third time at the next service($50. more than anyplace else) they didn't tighten the clutch inspection plate and for the bikes first time it leaked a giant puddle over night. They picked it back up - took 5 hours to fix their mistake - putting deep scratchs in the left swing arm in the process. I picked the bike up - get 3 blocks and the foot shift lever swings towards the ground - I carefully shift into 1st and head back too have it tightened. With black prints every where I leave again. Next time I'll try Oakland and try to find a dealership that cares about its workmanship; I have many projects insore for this bike and have alredy started collecting parts but sad to say I'll have to look elsewhere to have these mod.s done. - I'm sure others have'nt had this kind of treatment, but I've learned my lesson - name means nothing -actions all. | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Hi Ya'll, Had a near FUBAR with the Blast last week. The problem though was of my own creation. I thought that as light weight as the carb was that there was no need to get in a hurry to design a carb support when I put the dirt track type air cleaner on. This was a major mistake as the rubber boot split going down the road, thus creating a very lean condition. I shut down the bike immediately and was able to do a temporary road fix with a racer tape patch until I could get into the next town. There I purchased a peice of hose and fashioned a new boot. There was no performance lose so I think that I avoided any damage. The moral to this tale is DON'T RUN YOUR BLAST WITHOUT SOME TYPE OF CARB SUPPORT. Thank the GOOD LORD I got extremely lucky. BTW I have fashioned a temporary support until I can design one that is better looking. Changing the plug, Although there is a torque spec on installing the plug I believe Pinkpank is correct that a slight turn past bottomed is sufficient. In addition though I us a small addition of antiseize compond when installing mine due to the aluminum head. This helps to prevent it trying to weld itself to the threads and thus damaging the threads. Adam, Try as I might I can't give you a good answer. The possibilities could be though: 1. Dealer did not fill properly at last service. 2. Some of the Buells have an increased oil consumption at higher RPMs. Mine does not seem to have this problem, but I've heard of it elsewhere on the board. I tend to check my oil level everytime I fuel my bike. I use about 1/4-1/2 quart every 2500 miles, but I plan to change my oil in that period of time so this amount of cunsumption is OK by me. A thorough look see of the bike is in order though as the quicker you deal with new noises the less the cost of repair, usually. Ray | ||
| Topcat |
Ray, Every screw,bolt and nut has a torque spec. this is to help prevent breakage/damage. compared to steel threads (sparkplugs), aluminum threads (heads) are very soft and fairly easily stripped. what You and Oliver said about sparkplugs is OK in a pinch, but really should be torqued. I've been a CNC Machinist for almost 30 yrs. about 20 yrs. in the aerospace field. most aluminum aircraft parts use helicoils to strengthen the threads. Motorcycles don't because it is time consuming/expensive. after Harley changed from iron heads to aluminum heads I helped a few friends helicoil repair their heads because they tightened them like they had their ironheads. This requires the use of a Bridgeport Mill for drilling and retapping. not the best way to spend an afternoon. I learned from their mistakes(the best/cheapest way to learn) and always torque to specs when possible. All always check your oil after someone changes it. to err is human. check it when you pick it up at the dealer. if it's full when your Blast! is cold it is overfilled! The oil level has to be checked when the engine is warm. like Ray says check it at fillup, it just takes a few seconds and the bike is warm. getting warranty work on an engine ran without oil would be difficult at best. TC | ||
| Blastin |
Hey all my fellow Blastards, I'm back from Cancun. Tropical Storm "Chantal" dropped in to say hello on Tuesday but she left behind several inches of rain. She wouldn't take them back either. Other than that no mishaps. I have found a new back up job though. It was like a thumper paradise. Every pizza, taco, burger, etc delivery service was done with an air cooled thumper, most were 125-350cc. So if you like traffic jamming on some thumpers , hot weather, and can speak some Spanish there's a job waiting for you. Actually over the course of a week I only saw 1 inline 4 and and 3- 2 cylinder bikes. The thumper is definetly king down there. Now I get to break in the Pirelli's before homecoming, if I could just shake this chest cold thing that I picked up it would make it a lot more fun.  So who is coming to Homecoming? Jerry | ||
| Buellersdayoff |
EzBlast, I've had the same experience with Dudley Perkins. Not only did they not order a part they needed to repair an EPA warrantee problem until they had the bike (diagnosed 3 weeks earlier), but kept it over a week until I demanded they fedex the part. Then they "re-performed" the 1,000 mile checkup without checking and tried to charge me for it. Now I get a call from the service guy telling me I have to come in to sign another warrantee form for the EPA work done because they forgot to have me sign it two weeks ago. I told him he can wait until I need service again, then I'll come in and sign it...you said it, name is just a name, actions speak louder. | ||
| Sarodude |
Just curious... Does anyone else find the amount of play in the throttle linkage annoying? Both my wife's and my own Blasts have really sloppy feel there. Gotta dial out most of that... -Saro | ||
| Pinkpank |
Ray and TC, I really don't think we have an argument - torquing is best, indeed. Luckily, spark plugs have little crush washers and hence you get good "feedback" as it tightens, and 11+ years of owing aluminum machinery have taught me to a) always tighten carefully and b) always start to thread manually to avoid cross-threading. You know the old adage - if you have to force it, it isn't right! But I'd use my torque wrench if I had it handy and/or could get it in there easily. You guys with the dealer stories are scarying me into doing my OWN 1000 mile service. Heck, I suppose just leaving it alone might be less dangerous than having mechanics touch it. The shop that has my Suzuki now has already pulverized $300 to find out that the carbs were already clean (doh - I told them I cleaned the carbs and they were fine) and that the valves were fine (of course, they forgot to order a valve cover gasket, so it's apart until unknown date and my buyer is waiting). AFTER doing all that he looked at the air cleaner and now thinks that the disintegrated air cleaner might be causing the bike not to take the gas properly. Why do I have the sinking feeling that I will be losing $500 and the bike will still run no better than it did before?!? Sigh. Oliver | ||
| Pinkpank |
Oh, almost forgot - does every Blast make that fast "squeak squeak squeak squeak" as you let out the clutch when taking off from a dead stop?!? I thought it was the rear tire chirping with every piston power stroke (explaining the short tire life), but it seems to be eminating from the belt since it even did it in the rain the other day. It sounds like the belt is squeaking against the rear pulley. I've never owned a belt-drive before, so I thought this might be normal. Not?!? TIA Oliver | ||
| Tashben |
My husband just finished the 1000 mile maintenance check on my Blast, swapped out the exhaust for a Vance & Hines (looks good and sounds gutsy) and took those hokey Buell/Blast decals off. Oliver, I had a high-pitched squeaking when the bike was cold, I think it was the rear brake. I haven't noticed in past couple of days though. Last week drive the Blast from SFO arear to Carson City, NV. Took almost all 2 lane roads unless forced to use the freeway. Got the bike up to 95 mph on HWY 4, but started to scare myself and backed-off. Went over 500 miles -- my first real trip. I love the ride and the bike seams very responsive. Any of you that have installed a windshield, I'd like to know if really helps with the wind. I wear an open-faced helmet with safety sunglasses, but thought the windshield would provide more protection. Enjoy the RIDE!!! | ||
| Buellersdayoff |
Oliver, I have the same squeaking, and I've attributed it to the belt drive against the pulley as well. Doesn't seem to harm anything and it only really sqeaks when I let the clutch out slooowly. Brendan | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Oliver, I don't seem to understand why some people seem to think that that if someone has an opinion about a subject that differs from their own that this requires argument. The purpose of this thread is to help each other out and to tell others of our experience(s). Oh well I'm going to continue until someone tells me to shutup and leave. Sure hope this doesn't happen though. I stand by MY opinion that I can safely tighten a spark plug without the aid of a torque wrench. I've changed hundreds and never used a torque wrench and NEVER damaged a head (aluminum or not). BUT I agree with TC that there are many if not most of the screws, bolts & nuts on the Blast that need to be religiously tightened to proper specs for proper operation. In fact I use a torque wrench religiously on mine. 'Dirt Track' aircleaner version "B" I finished the next version of my aircleaner mod tonight and love it. Cost for version "B" less than $70 and about 10 hours fabrication work. Is now tucked in tighter and angled down to get it out of the way of my leg. This one does include a carb support (I learned my lesson ) attaches to the left hand stock airbox bolt on the motor so that the carb moves with the motor not against. Will post pics when I get them probably next week. I think this one is a keeper. Ray | ||
| Aaron |
Ray: shut up and leave. JUST KIDDING!!! Don't take this stuff too seriously. AW | ||
| Court |
>>>I have the same squeaking, and I've attributed it to the belt drive against the pulley Interesting....and all this time I was blaming age. THANKS ! Court | ||
| Jimalexander |
Does anyone have any idea what going on with my transmission? I'll do my best to describe it. My 2000 Blast has 150 miles on it and when it's running with the clutch in and in first gear at idle, something in the transmission seems to grab and engage making the engine falter and try to cut off. When driving very low speed in first the same engaging momentarily disrupts the normal process and there is a clunking and the bike hestitates momentarily until it disengages. It is an intermittant thing. I thought I'd ask you all before I take it to a dealer. Thanks, Jim. | ||
| Blake |
Jim: If it were me, I'd take it to a good dealer! Sounds like you may have loose parts in your primary. BTW, it's best to hit neutral and avoid sitting for any length (like at a long traffic light...) with the clutch disengaged. Aslo keep in mind that driving too slowly in any gear will cause surging. You may need to feather the clutch at very low speeds in first gear (keep the revs up to a decent level). Also, check the basics... Make sure your clutch lever has proper freeplay and is completely pulled in (lever should touch handgrip) when actuated at length as you describe. Still, I'd definitely take it to a good dealer if it sounds like loose parts. It is under warranty right? | ||
| Jimalexander |
To Blake, thanks for your input. No warranty, paid $3200.00 for it from a guy whose wife didn't like the clutch. The clutch is strong and when I test rode it no issues came up. Anyway I can make the noise occur by letting in and out the clutch lever while going slow in first gear so at least the dealer's service people can hear it. Jim | ||
| Buellersdayoff |
Jim, The warrantee is transferable, go to your local dealer and fill out the paperwork. It seems like all the blast's have one issue or another, so having it under warrantee for the full year (I'm assuming the 150 miles isn't over a year) will definitely reduce some of your headaches. Brendan | ||
| Sarodude |
It's been exactly a month since my Blast swallowed a valve and trashed its entire top end. I still have no bike. I don't think the dealer is particualrly interested in fixing my bike... I'm about to call 'em up and tell 'em to drop off a crate full of parts on my doorstep so I can finish the job while I'm still young enough to comprehend what fun is... -Saro | ||
| Topcat |
Ray & Pinkpant, arguing? I thought we were discussing. I guess I need to learn how to put those little smiley faces in my posts. Whimsical, You said you were quoted $369.95 for Purple Blast! body parts. I checked with Jim's H-D/Buell in St.Petersburg,Fl. today and they said any color body parts are about $130. per set. I'll be picking up a set of black ones that I purchased on Aug. 8th next week from Fletcher's H-D/Buell. tail fairing $46.80 fuelcell cover $50.20 frt fender $18.60. I'll check with them as per current prices if you'd like. TC | ||
| Pinkpank |
TC and Ray, I should have written "we don't really have a disagreement". ;-) Typing is so "cold", you can't tell how it's meant. I apologize. I was just trying to say that nobody is wrong here, and that tightening the spark plug with or without torque wrench has it's place (I use it when I have it handy). Good to know mine isn't the only one "sqeaking". Mine does it ALL the time when starting from a stop, though. I do release the clutch with low RPMs, though - a habit that has made my automotive clutches last well over 100k miles (rev matching when shifting combines with near-idle gentle take-offs). It's probably the very lazy power-stroke speed on this Thumper at low RPMs that I'm not used to and I should be "feathering" the clutch more. But that feels like I'm going to wear the clutch lining prematurely, so it's counter-intuitive and I think I'll abuse the belt and tire instead, given a choice. And with a cool 500 clutch engagements on an average evening ride (a light or stopsign every block!), that sounds like I'll be replacing the clutch before I get too many miles on the bike anyway. (Coincidentally, my Suzuki's clutch cable frayed and broke every 3000 miles - wish this bike had a hydraulic clutch!). Jim, I get a weird "clunking" when I sit in first gear with the clutch out, and sometimes it even "crunches" all by itself while sitting like the clutch isn't fully disengaged or slightly "dragging" (like a slowly rotating gear clanking against another stationary one). Hence I don't sit like that and almost ALWAYS wait in neutral. It takes a bit more work to keep this ancient Harley tranny moderately quiet (I don't think it'll ever be like a Honda tranny), and I have to make a conscious effort to downshift while still moving slightly, rev-match, get in neutral at the light, and pull the clutch 3 seconds before I re-engage first all whilst watching the opposing light for yellow. I can understand why some folks tire of that quickly and buy a Helix instead. ;-0 Me, I'm hooked on the feeling of that BIG piston popping up and down. ;-) Oliver | ||
| Whimsical |
Hey TC, If you have time, please check your dealership for the pricing on the grape body parts. I had to check at 2 dealers just to make sure and they both gave me that price of $370. Thanks! Tashben, I got the Windshield and I love it! Before....I felt like the wind was going to push me backward off the bike and the windshield definitely lessens this feeling. Rosa | ||
| Jimalexander |
Oliver, thanks, your post make me feel better, I thought something was wrong. I'm new to this bike and my experience is mostly with Brit bikes I rode in the late 60's and 70's. The BSA Victor 441 thumper I owned sure didn't shake like the Blast at idle or make weird sounds when at idle with the clutch lever pulled in, but I'm grateful to Eric Buell and Harley for producing this bike! This particular bike shifts well up and down without matching revs unless I choose to. Soon as I get it inspected and get the sprocket recall taken care of I can get some quality ride time in. | ||
| Pinkpank |
Jim, Well, I hope that's all it is - typical noise. If not, we BOTH might have lemons. ;-0 I certainly pay attention, and I often notice the "clanking" in the tranny when I stop in gear with the clutch in (i.e. if I know the light is about to turn). Guess they are "character" noises. I hope. ;-) Oliver | ||
| Prof_Stack |
There are lots of "character" noises in this Thumper. Even though I've mastered quiet shifting, the tranny still seems to occasionally reset itself with a type of clunk. The belt squeaking on the plastic cover of the pulley is annoying so I try to use less throttle and a more even clutch release. But all of that is small potatoes to the fun I have when riding the Blast. However, my HS teaching duties have taken over too much of my riding time. Maybe the next Powerball lottery will free me of all that. | ||
| Tashben |
Rosa, Thanks for the input on the windshield. I have a "makeshift" one on right now and I'll see if it makes a difference this weekend. | ||
| Crazymike |
Parked the Blast today, buying for sale signs tommorow. It leaks, rattles, knocks, looses parts, and sucks oil through the carb at freeway speeds. Almost got run over today when the tranny hung up going from 2nd to 1st. I ride 80-100 miles round trip to work. Have had 2 other bikes previously. Put 47,000 miles on the first, 60,000 miles on the other. After 4 months and 5000 miles on the Blast I can truthfully say this is the worst bike I've ever owned. I didn't expect it to be perfect, no bike is. I won't bore you with details, you can read the bio. Ya'll wave when ya pass me on the freeway, I'll be in the blue Toyota p/u. The Blast was the only thing in my price range. Ride carefully now. | ||
| Jimalexander |
Crazymike, Sorry to hear of your bad experience with the Blast. I was going to wait for the bike to be in production for a few years and see how reliable and problem free or problematic it was but found one with 131 miles for $3200 and decided to take a chance. It will take a while for me to decide if it's a keeper and I hope it will be but if not I'll go back to the tried and true Ninja 250. (I can swallow my pride easily at my age.) Cheap at 2999.00 list price for a 2002. I had one and it will do the ton, is super reliable and fun, and with a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket will commute as well. Jim. | ||
| Prof_Stack |
Crazymike - too bad about your experience. 80 to 100 miles roundtrip might have been too much to ask of this Thumper. I'd probably go with a twin for that kind of commuting. I'm still convinced that HD/Buell used the Blast not only to get new riders but to have us test/prove the design in preparation for the Firebolt motor. Mine has 5,000 miles and I'll take it in for scheduled maintenance soon. Still stock. |
