| Author | Message | ||
     Hj5150 |
Greetings everyone! New to this forum, but not to riding. Picked up a P3 for the wife to learn on last night. Going into it, we knew there were some issues, but for the price we felt we couldn't go wrong. I'll list some of the issues, and hopefully some of you gurus can chime in with some solutions. 1. Neutral light remains on whether in gear or not. I'm going to look for a missing wire on the neutral switch? 2. Clutch is VERY touchy. The slightest release of the lever launches the bike. Most likely a cable adjustment? 3. Rubber intake coupler (between carb and intake manifold) is cracked and leaking. I'm thinking that this is related to causing the high idle. When I come off the throttle, it takes about 10 or so seconds for the idle to drop to a proper RPM. I'll replace the coupler? 4. Turn signals don't work. Front ones aren't even connected on the bike (he did include them in a box with the sale) but the rear ones don't function either. I'm thinking fuse, or bad flasher? 5. Both the left and right footrest assemblies are bent in towards the motor case. Yes it's been dropped! It's drive able (drove it 35+ miles home on the highway) but I'm wondering if I can just bend them back out, or do they have to be replaced? Either way, we are excited to get it running properly. Thanks in advance, HJ | ||
| Missionbolts |
1: Light is turned on by a switch located just ahead of the belt drive sprocket. Usually a plastic cover is hiding this switch. Removing the switch requires removing the drive sprocket, but the connector can be dealt with, without messing with the sprocket. It's a single wire that connects to ground. Try disconnecting the wire from the switch to see if that makes the light go out. If the light goes out, then the problem is the switch itself or something wrong inside the tranny. If light stays on, then check for shorts. That wire runs directly to the dash display without any other connections or devices involved. If everything is working like it should, then having that wire disconnected/broken will result in the light never coming on 2: To loosen-up that clutch, there's a in-line adjuster near the cylinder head, Usually covered with a rubber boot. If that adjuster is already as short as it can go, then you need to set the main adjuster back at the clutch. I would recommend a 3/8's socket, gooseneck & long extension to remove the three nuts that hold the left-hand footpeg bracket. This is under the seat, next to the rear shock and inside a very cramped cubbyhole. I've been able to just barely squeeze past the rear shock, but with the right setup it's actually very easy. There's a 4" diameter cover in the rear of the side case, right under that footpeg bracket, held on with three screws. The cover is holding a spring which will fall on the ground, that spring in turn is holding a lock-plate which pulls right out when the cover is off. The lock-plate keeps an adjusting screw from turning. The adjusting screw itself does not move in & out, what it does is to move a barrel nut which bears against a cam-action throw-out bearing. I would try turning the adjuster screw CCW two flats of the lock nut & test the clutch lever throw at that point. I like to set the inline adjuster so it's all the way in, then set the main adjuster for one flat too loose of a throw at the clutch lever. Then use the inline adjuster to take up the rest of the slack This would also be a good time to check the oil level in the tranny. I use a wet-clutch type oil (motorcycle). The engine oil, I use my Jeeps oil supply as it's a bit cheaper. No wet-clutch friction modifier issues for the Blast's engine oil. But you can use the same oil in both sections 3: A temporary 'quick' fix is to remove the intake boot, degrease it with rubbing alcohol/hot water & dish soap(no harsh solvents), then fill in the cracks with RTV silicone. Let that set up & give the entire boot a 2nd coat. Wait a day before re-installing. A more permanent 'quickie' fix is to use a polyurethane such as Lexel by Sashco.com This is a clear window sealer for household repairs, most big box home centers have this 4: Front signal connectors are two separate leads, each with only two wires ending in loose bullet connectors. Just like what is on the light modules. You only need to remove the windshield to get to these. It's not too critical which way you connect those, unless you want to run LED bulbs that do not have a built-in rectifier For testing, I would disconnect the flasher & make sure there's power at one of the pins with the key on. The entire circuit is a generic design. Battery power goes to the flasher unit, then to the turn signal switch. That switch then connects one of the pairs that light up when you use the switch. After the light bulbs, the circuit then returns to the chassis ground via the main wiring harness 5: footpeg brackets are hard to find. I would cut the welds on the inner plate & remove that, bend the outer section back into shape. Then bend a nice piece of steel tube to fit inside & weld it up full length. Probly redhot-hammer the sheet metal down flat to the tubing as I weld. Then call it a 'custom upgrade' Only complication will be the rear brake bracket & lever mount. This part of your project will be the most interesting. Just bend them out and see how that holds up. Improve more later as needed. But I would expect those brackets to be weaker than new By the way, all of the dash lights are LED's soldered onto a circuit board. So there shouldn't be any reason to change those out(hopefully...) And the speedometer gets it's signal from a hall-effect sensor mounted right on the tranny, above the drive sprocket. In case you were wondering at why there isn't a speedo cable running down the front forks | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Clutch might be normal. It is a very grabby clutch. Most footpegs are bent in from just one drop. Straight ones are hard to find. Easy to get used to. Gasoline is a solvent and it is really difficult to get a good seal when used near carbs or intakes. Everything must be completely dry. Trying to fix a bad boot should be a last resort. Replace asap. Plug the turn signals in as they generally won’t work if disconnected. You won’t get anywhere unless all 4 are hooked up and the bulbs are good. Don’t use or substitute LEDs until you have them working. It might be possible that somebody bypassed the neutral light (to stay on) to bypass the safety switches. Unusual, but it would work. If that’s the case, once you get it fixed, it might shut down on you when letting out the clutch or putting it in gear or even shut down during running down the road. Most of that just supplements above. Make sure you get it running before you start changing or modifying anything. Welcome! It’s a bullet proof little bike once you get it sorted out. | ||
| Hj5150 |
Thanks for the replies. I started to dive into this last night. I got the clutch adjusted properly. Thank you Missionbolts for the tip. In the process though, at the end, I actually snapped the drive belt. Lucky it happened in the garage rather than on the highway while taking it home on the first night. The blinkers. Hmmmm. I think I'm gonna have my work cut out for me. The front signals are not hooked up. In fact, the only wires that are showing on the front (with a connector that's not connected to anything) go to ground according to my meter. I see no other wires except a couple that have the cut off (they too go to ground according to the meter). I checked the rear signal lights with a 12v source separately, and they are not burned out, so that's one good thing. The flasher assy clicks ever so slightly when turning the key on. I can feel it with my hand while touching it when turning on the key. So, I'm still not sure if the flasher works or not, but it does get power. Gearheaderiko, thanks for the tip regarding needing 4 signals hooked up to operate. My quest now is to find the hot? wires for the front turn signals to allow further testing. I did order the rubber coupler last night at the dealership. I guess I need to get a new belt too. If anyone has a good source for an affordable new drive belt, I'm all ears. Thanks again for all the assistance. I'll keep ya posted. | ||
| Hj5150 |
Update: After some extensive wire tracing, I was able to get the turn signals to work. It took some splicing of a couple of wires (2 were cut off), and a shorting of the flasher pins to check and activate the signals, but they work. Yes the flasher is bad and will need replacing but that's an easy fix. Next up is the neutral light fix, and the intake manifold when the parts come in. | ||
| Hj5150 |
Got the neutral Light to work! :-) First attempt was to test by removing the wire from the switch. Failure. . . couldn't get it off without removing the pulley, and didn't have a box wrench large enough to do the job. However, I did notice that the physical switch was loose within the housing, so I carefully snugged it up a bit with a screwdriver as I couldn't get a socket on it with the pulley installed. Next I traced the wire to the fuse box and noticed that one of the diodes was plugged in the wrong way! Wallah, problem solved! :-) | ||
| Missionbolts |
Nice! I probly would've spent a day before getting that diode sorted. If only all the fixes were that easy | ||
| Hj5150 |
Replaced the flasher with a "Novita Hazard Warning Flasher EP36" from AutoZone. It was $12.00 and works like a champ. I got a call from the HD dealership that my parts were in so tonight I'll get them. One is the rubber intake manifold coupler which I hope will remedy my idle issue. When I come off the throttle, it takes about 10 or so seconds for the idle to drop to a proper RPM. |
