Author |
Message |
Blastjedi
| Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2016 - 02:13 pm: |
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Also, I forgot to mention one little detail... When I bought the bike two years ago, the auto enricher was unplugged and the idle speed screw was backed out completely so the butterfly was fully shut at idle. There were a ton of issues with the bike at the time, so I never paid much attention to the hard start while hot problem. But I think it started after I corrected the idle speed screw and connected the AE back into the harness. Thinking that the AE was the problem, I converted a spare one I had to a manual one and the issue starting while hot issue persisted. Not sure what the previous owner was doing. But that's one thing that I found odd when I first bought the bike. Anyhow like I said she starts a heck of a lot easier now, with the idle mix screw backed out to nearly 4 turns. Thanks! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, September 09, 2016 - 03:55 am: |
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Go to a 46 primary jet. EZ |
Scottvan
| Posted on Friday, September 09, 2016 - 10:26 am: |
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Das Super Boot still available? Ordered 27443-00Y from New Castle but would like to finalize this issue... Thanks! Scott 2007 Blast |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2016 - 03:23 am: |
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Yes - but dan is trying to fill a ton of back orders as well, so you can contact him but his reply will be a soon as can thing - it's one guy doing a lot of things! EZ |
Jetlee
| Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2016 - 12:07 am: |
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Keep it interesting? How's this for "interesting"?
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2016 - 11:22 am: |
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Thatsa nice!! I don't remember the oil lines going underneath the swingarm. Is that custom or just my poor memory? |
Jetlee
| Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2016 - 10:42 pm: |
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It's an 03 swingarm. It's the only year they went this way. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2016 - 11:23 pm: |
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My bike from PA showed today!!! Wahoo!!!
The red bike will be finished first though - Maul, and it will go to my nephew, and the PA bike will be the new daily rider replacing Starkiller. Projects are always fun! EZ |
Blueblast
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 11:33 pm: |
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Midlifeblaster
| Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2016 - 10:39 pm: |
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Newbie w/electrical ? At the age of 42, I just got my first bike a -new to me- 2009 Blast. Unfortunately, I am not mechanically or electrically inclined and hoping someone might be able to offer advice. I mounted a pair of fog lights on the bike and would like to find a clean and safe way to provide them w/switched power. in addition to the lights I also bought a handlebar mounted rocker switch and an in-line fuse. The fuse block has a 7.5 accessory fuse. Is that the most logical place to draw from and how do I do that? I enjoy this forum and many cool mod ideas! Thanks in advance - Ted D |
Court
| Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2016 - 10:48 pm: |
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Ted: Welcome and we're darn glad to have you here. I know about nothing, in terms of tech info, about the Blast. But . . . I have good news. We've a crowd of whiz bang tech folks who can get you fixed up pronto. Glad to have you here and please . . always. . . . feel free to bring any and all questions. Let me get one of the Blast guys . . .they'll be right here. :-) Court |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2016 - 11:44 pm: |
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Thanks Court! Your best bet is to use a relay to power the lights. The lights are connected to the relay and the switch just powers the relay on and off. The relay will take the brunt of the abuse as a switch and 7.5 amp fuse probably won't cut it. Sorry, all my info is still packed away. Relays are cheap. |
Torquehd
| Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2016 - 11:22 pm: |
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Oreilly's or autozone will typically carry a foglight wiring kit that consists of a switch, wires, and the vital relay, some connectors, and they're usually pretty cheap, $10 or $15 IIRC. Edit, and as the previous poster mentioned, a fuse! All wiring should be fused as close to the power source (positive terminal) as possible! (Message edited by torquehd on October 01, 2016) |
Th3wizard
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2016 - 11:20 am: |
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For a clutch adjustment can I follow the service manual verbatim, or are there any tips that work better? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2016 - 06:25 pm: |
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Follow the manual. It will never go the same way twice, so don't sweat it! |
Th3wizard
| Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2016 - 12:34 am: |
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I got back to my apartment today and a man came over to me asking about the bike. He thought it was a cool bike and said he liked the way it sounded as I rode up. So he asks if it is for sale, and I tell him I'm always taking offers. He said anywhere between $1500 and $2500 depending on how it rides. Naturally, I allowed the prospective buyer to test drive my bike. The first thing this man did was pop the clutch, lose grip on the left handlebar, and pull the throttle all the way open trying to keep himself up with one hand on the bars. So he runs right into the side of a truck at what I assume was the top speed of 1st gear. Left fork severely bent, right fork is not attached to the bike, engine is sitting on the ground, belt snapped, ignition crushed to plastic dust, speedo crushed, frame bent, fuel tank punctured, do not remove bracket broke. There may be more damage, I couldn't bare to look any longer. The man got up after cradling his nuts and hobbles back to his apartment. Truck owner calls police, but no report can be made because the accident happened on private property. So my bike is broken beyond my financial abilities, I owe money to the truck owner because my bike hit it, and the prospective buyer is nowhere to be found. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2016 - 11:59 pm: |
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Worst case scenario ; ( Sorry you had to learn the hard way. Have cash in hand before any stranger test rides your bike and make sure they can actually ride first. Lots of people will try and con their way into riding your bike, saying they want to buy it is the popular way. It's just like lending out money: if you can't afford to lose it, don't do it. Again, I'm real sorry this happened to you. You can get some of your money back by parting it out. Don't forget the title with frame number is worth money too, just don't "salvage title" the bike (I'd be interested when the time comes). |
Bilito
| Posted on Sunday, October 09, 2016 - 09:22 pm: |
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Can you rebuild or repair the rear brake master cylinder on a Blast? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, October 09, 2016 - 10:49 pm: |
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H0040.F is the repair kit. I don't know if it's still available. My guess is yes, but where?! So that's a yes, depending what's wrong with it and if the rebuild kit is still available. No doubt individual seals can be matched up. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, October 10, 2016 - 04:24 am: |
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Should check frame bending - forks, tree, and front of frame bent on my T-bone bike totalled - saved parts off of it, or parts of parts - lol - but still that bike was no longer usable - a very sad thing indeed! EZ |
Bilito
| Posted on Monday, October 10, 2016 - 06:35 am: |
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Thank you for the info, is there a picture showing the exploded cylinder and disassembly instructions. The bike sat unused for over a year and then when I went to use it the rear brake was bad. I tried bleeding it to no avail, I suspect a seal is bad. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, October 10, 2016 - 10:02 pm: |
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http://buellmods.com Everything you need is there: repair manual & parts book. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, October 10, 2016 - 10:05 pm: |
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PS 99.99% of all years Blast parts are interchangeable. 2000 & 2001 saw the most changes-which were few. |
Bilito
| Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 02:47 pm: |
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Wow that manual is great thank you. Ok when I took the bike out of the shed, after sitting for a year, a little fresh gas and it fired right up, went to take a ride, front brake works great, rear brake, nothing, just went to the floor, no resistance, nothing, tried to bleed it with some fresh dot 4, nothing, did not even pump fluid out when pedal pushed, what do you folks think is the problem?? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 09:56 pm: |
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I would gravity bleed the system, for a few hours. Then see if anything moves (like the rear caliper). Remove the Blake line off the master and see if it pumps out fluid. If not, you know it's bad. If this bike was north, water could have frozen in the line and damaged a seal. Since this appears to be a southern beach bike, neglect and salt air could have caused serious corrosion. When that happens and you then push the pedal "to the floor" on the master, you can damage the seals. It's not a complex system, so the problem shouldn't be hard to find. You might find a complete rear brake set up cheap on eBay! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2016 - 08:23 pm: |
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Maul - starting to look like Maul! - lol
EZ |
Th3wizard
| Posted on Monday, October 17, 2016 - 08:20 pm: |
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The only part of my frame that bent was the triangular part at the front, so that is straightened out now. I will be replacing forks, engine mounts, speedo, fuel tank, and key ignition. Everything else appears to be unharmed. I will be keeping the blast after all!! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, October 17, 2016 - 10:17 pm: |
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That's good news. It did not sound good from your. 'Accident report'! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 01:54 am: |
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Rearsets started -
EZ |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2016 - 02:09 am: |
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EZ |
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