| Author | Message | ||
     Th3wizard |
This is the 3rd battery I've gotten from the HD dealership, they said they can't give me any more free replacements. I will try unbolting for a week | ||
| Wheelman |
I would check to see if there is a draw on the battery when the switch is off. A multimeter could indicate a potential or a plain old bulb might indicate an open circuit. | ||
| Wheelman |
Been reading the manual -- great manual considering only 23,000 bikes were produced. Hey, would it be wrong for me to say that the Blast shift from 1st to neutral to second and back is rough? Since I do not like the sound of gear dogs grinding, here's what I have been doing: From a stop in neutral: punch the shift lever down into 1st quickly -- not too hard -- but with authority. A audible "clunk" is heard, which may be better than a "grind." To avoid the loud "clunk," shift into 1st just before the machine comes to a stop, then hold the clutch in while waiting for the light to change. Holding it in does no harm that I know of. Shifting from 1st to second: Do it at a low engine rpm and again with authority to avoid the grind. For a rolling stop or even from a complete stop: You don't need to go down to 1st. As long as you don't expect a quick start with a short clutch slide, second works fine if you let the clutch slide until the machine gains enough speed to let it out completely. As far as I know, sliding a oil clutch doesn't do harm to the plates, if not excessive. Any thoughts on sliding the clutch from a start in second? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
1st to 2nd is crunchy. You're mostly right, but my 1st to 2nd shift is between 30-40mph!!. But with practice and a proper clutch adjustment, the problems go away. A shifter pawl adjustment makes a huge difference. Authority is a good word as opposed to "jamming" it. Again, most of what you wrote is true or helpful. | ||
| Jetlee |
I prefer the phrase "stomp it into gear".  | ||
| Rocketrick |
Hey every body good morning from Rocket rick, IT's Sunday morning and snowing so hard here in northern Michigan that I can't see across the street. Any way I was wondering which tube frame people were using for there Blast engines? Is there a particular Buell tube frame that it almost bolts in or is there a lot of fabricating to be done? Thanks Rick | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, I never paid much attention to what the Tuber Blasts needed to mount the engine. XB's are much easier to bolt up, better motorcycle and safer. (Blow a Blast engine in the tuber frame and you lose the rear suspension-seen it!!) I have posted Tuber Blast pictures, but I don't think they're good enough for your use. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
.....and realistically, it's not like there are a whole bunch of Tuber Blasts around either. | ||
| Ezblast |
XB frame is pretty straight forward. EZ | ||
| Terrisdigital |
hey all, wanted to know if anyone has ever lifted a blast, longer fork tubes maybe even longer rear shock? I Have a 03 p3 that I want to do this to | ||
| Swthompson79 |
I just bought a 2010 Blast. The exhaust is completely corroded. Are there any exhaust systems out there that will fit? For whatever reason 2010 isn't listed on many vendor sites. Thanks! | ||
| Ronbob43 |
I thought the 2010s were all coffee tables. | ||
| Ronbob43 |
I thought the 2010s were all coffee tables. | ||
| Swthompson79 |
I thought so too. 2010 is what's on the title. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
2010 is the last year. All Blasts are virtually identical. If it fits one, it fits all, with very rare exceptions (usually parts you're not going to need). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Raising the rear of a Blast is problematic. The belt will become too loose. You can stiffen it up to the max height without a problem. You can raise it up so it rides normally in the stock range and ad an idler pulley or belt tensioner for full shock extension. But since it's a ribbed belt, it's unwise to have contact with the belt consistently. Franks forking can probably get you longer tubes for the front. | ||
| Kwkride |
Mine is also a 2010. Harley killed off Buell in 2009, but the still needed training bikes for Riders Edge. They kept producing the Blast for 2010, but it was not marketed as a Buell anymore. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think every Buell I have is titled as a Harley  | ||
| Jetlee |
Someone registered not long ago on the other forum with a lifted Blast. He swapped out the tall suspension bits for stock parts. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
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| Rocketrick |
Good morning from northern Michigan. My son came up for the holiday and showed me how to down load pictures, so here is how I rolled it out for now. I really want to do a lot more soon. thanks gear head & Ez blast for the info it runs very well and out runs both my sons Blast's easily with just tuning. I am still looking for cam shafts and suspension mods? going riding thanks Rocketrick. | ||
| Rocketrick |
So maybe I can get this picture to load Rocketricks Buell Blast | ||
| Rocketrick |
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| Gearheaderiko |
Cam shafts are Andrews B50's, the only cams that will run with a stock engine (only a cam change). Better cams need engine mods. The front suspension can be shimmed and heavier weight fork oil added. That's basic. Beyond that, you can buy better springs and valves. It gets pricy. You can shim the rear shock spring (only needs about 1/4"-1/2" shim depending on your weight). Beyond that is shock replacement. We successfully raced a Blast with just the basic suspension mods. You need to measure "SAG" for it to be done properly-not hard-just you, a tape measure and a helper. | ||
| Rocketrick |
Thanks I already shimmed the front springs I made some nice ones of aluminum 1.125 long. They seem perfect, I have about .75 to 1.0 inches of sag when i'm on machine and dive on braking is greatly reduced. I did find a brand new set of B70 cams for two hundred, there in the box but no info on what else I may need, also are they usable on the street? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Washers and PVC can be used for shimming. Doesn't need to be fancy. B70's need better valve springs and modified guides. Beehive springs are the way to go and stock valve guides can be ground down for the extra clearance need for added lift of the B70s. They are totally streetable. Since you'll have the head off, this would be a good time to go to a 10.5:1 piston. Big bore kits have come down in price, $300, so that might be a quick and easy way to go. But just buying a .010 over piston is cheaper, but not by much (including boring, honing, rings and gaskets). However, if you can find the complete front cylinder top end, including cams, off an XB9, THAT is the way to go!! Or I can think of many more ways to spend your go fast money  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Are the cams off eBay or from a regular 'store'? | ||
| Jetlee |
If you use AV&V Beehive springs AND their retainers, you can use the B70's without modifying the guides. I ran 551's with stock guides and no issues. B70's are .530 lift and 551's are...well...551 The key is the beehive springs AND retainers. The springs bind lower and the retainers are lower profile than stock. http://www.zippersperformance.com/avv-ev-tc-beehiv e-valve-springs.html I was using the 515-360 spinning 8k rpm's with the 551 cams. 7500rpm was still making power at rev limiter. Power dropped quick after 7800rpm, hence the 8k limiter. This was on stock valves and guides. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Very interesting! I guess I'm behind the curve now. The retainers are the key. Without them, you won't have the clearance. And beehives are the way to go. Conventional "performance" springs beat the valve train to death. The problem I always had was just trying to buy 2 springs!! They are usually packaged for twins (4) and they never wanted to sell just 2. | ||
| Jetlee |
Not to mention that non-beehives require modification of the rocker box for clearance. When Revolution Performance was selling the AV&V's, they sold me just 2.  |
