| Author | Message | ||
     Muddhorn |
I've adjusted and checked everything by the book. Getting ready to try it again, step by step. | ||
| Ezblast |
The book is to tight for the primary - instead of 5 flats out, do 25 flats out, For the clutch - start with cable adjusted loose, the get to clutch adjustment at clutch and very very very soft bottom the just past 1/4 turn out - done. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think 25 flats is too excessive (that's 3+ turns) or subjective. Depending on mileage and abuse, chain stretch is going to vary greatly. Cold or hot adjustment will also change adjustment tolerances. The most accurate way is the the above adjustment (12 flats, 18 flats or 25 flats) and then the "by ear" method. It does take some practice, but certainly well worth it. True, it's also subjective, but if you start with a baseline (12,18,25) and compare the final adjustment with where you started, you'll at least have a clue with how close you are. I've just noticed over the years where the recommended adjustment gets looser and I think that corresponds to the bikes getting older and some with lots more mileage. | ||
| Wheelman |
I adjusted mine per the manual on a low mileage (2500 miles) Blast and have not noticed any out of ordinary noise. Btw, my first post, so hello and thanks for all the interesting thumper material to read. I have learned a lot. I got this 2003 Blast about 4 months ago and have been working it into better condition. As the previous owner's story goes, it had been stored in a steel shipping container for about 12 years and so I first noticed it was in good condition for its age (aside from certain abuses of the original rider). Apparently during its life in the container, the gas valve was left in the on position, so gradually, as gas evaporated from the carb bowl, more would trickle in, leaving the heavier components of the fuel while the lighter molecules went away. Lss, gummy mess. I tried to soak the old carb out but had no success and needed to get it running so I bought a new one. This worked pretty well except for a occasional sputter or cough and sometimes a stall at low rpms and cool engine temps. I figured the low jet was a 40 but upon inspection found a 42 same as the original. Then turned out the screw to 2 1/2 and the sputter went away and runs much better on the low rpms. Idle went a little higher though. On the test ride, I opened up the throttle all the way and noticed no problems with the 170 main jet that came with it. So here is a summary of what I found (screw settings were known to be factory since both old and new carbs had to be drilled and plugs removed to get at the screws): Original carb: 42 - 170, idle screw 1 1/4 out. New carb: 42 - 170, idle screw 1 3/4 turns out (recently adjusted to 2 1/2 turns out). (These are my current settings on an unmodified stock bike). Hey, did I read correctly that most or all HD's are now being built with this CV carb on them? | ||
| Ezblast |
Not really - if no noise then it's fine. If noise go in a few flats - my way works - too many people hesitant and end up still to tight. I really don't want to keep replacing tensioners, better loose than tight. Only way it's too loose is when it starts making noise, and then you just go back a few flats. Too tight always causes issues - pass. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
All* carbureted air cooled Harleys in the last 25 years or so use the CV carb. The blast carb has a Throttle position sensor (TPS) and auto enrichener (electric choke) and no accelerator pump. It is essentially the same carb otherwise, but they dont swap as an exact replacement. They use all the same parts besides the aforementioned 3. * there are some exceptions but they are not worth mentioning. Your primary chain will be too tight. You won't get the box of rocks noise, but likely a whirring. | ||
| Wheelman |
Gearhead, Hmmm. Come to think I did hear a "whir - whir - whir . . ." with the clutch in and slowing down, but thought it was the Dunlops (no need for the Dunlop warning, I got the message). I'll try another turn or two out and will see if this sound lessens. Thanks for the response, I'll let you know my results in a few days. Seems like there are a lot of these Blasts around still with low mileage. I wonder how many were made? Oh and say, when I drained the primary, I found a red fluid of kind of thin viscosity like automatic transmission fluid. Does this sound like the original primary lube or might it be a replacement done before I got the bike? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Approx 22,785 Blasts made!! Try the "by ear" method. About midway between whir and rattle! If it's still red, then it's probably been changed. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Where in Orange County were you? | ||
| Wheelman |
My family lived in Midway City and I attended Westminster High School. Huntington Beach is about 8 miles west down Beach Blvd. I had a Yamaha 250 then. Don't even recall what became of it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
My wife attended Westminster!! Class of '67 I think!! I left the OC 3.5 years ago. | ||
| Tnthumper |
I could have sworn I posted my dyno numbers on here way back when. Can't find the post if I did. Oh well. Anyways, my blast just got an engine teardown and all new gaskets and other rings. Back up and running strong as ever. First time my 05 has been apart like this. | ||
| Wheelman |
Gearhead, I left OC in '76 and went to the Midwest. As I recall, it was a wild place to live, probably still is. My sis, Class of '70, got a "Leo" at Westminster. She, a sociologist, once said, due to our situation, I would likely have trouble with authorities. She was not wrong. I recall getting drunk once at a football game and telling our principal that it was "great to be a Lion" (which is what he always said). That was fun. That lion statue seemed to be an object that could not be resisted. One evening, I guess as a homage to similar acts by previous classes, my buddy Jeff and I dismasted it from atop of the library. It made a racket and we ran like scared rabbits. Jeff remains a Yamaha man. Back then we drove 350s. I had a old R2. One day we noticed we were all wearing white tee shirts, and jokingly started referring to ourselves as the white-tee-shirt gang. Those were good times in OC. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Lol!! Thanks for the story! | ||
| Wheelman |
OK so, because of warnings (see above) about maybe the manual's spec of 4 1/2 flats out might be too tight, I backed off the primary chain adjuster screw one turn out from the previous 4 1/2 flats, for a total of 1 3/4 turns (or 10 1/2 flats). Listening carefully, I did not notice any difference in whining or whirring noises so I think the noise I hear is all tire noise. For the course threads of the adjusting screw, which are 1/2-inch 13 pitch, each turn out loosens the chain guide 0.078 inches, which seems like a lot. I will leave it at 10 1/2 flats for now and see if all is good. This is on a low mileage Blast approx. 2500 miles. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think that's good. Your top speed will suffer if it's too tight. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - it will still wear the tensioner - why I say go loose as possible, saves time going back in later. Why I recommend so many flats out - if you don't hear a sound that far out - then you have no worries, if you do then you just go in a few flats in till sound is gone. Too tight messes up a lot of things, least of which is your top end. EZ | ||
| Wheelman |
Thanks EZ and Gearhead, It makes a big difference to be able to benefit from those who are much more familiar with the Blast and are willing to share their knowledge and experience. I'll be reading and will maybe have comments at a later date. The Blast is running good now. Next I'll be getting rid of those Dunlops (the back seems about worn out now) and put some of the scooter tires on it. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
intake valve wasnt sealing. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yup! Who did your head? EZ | ||
| Styxnpicks |
NRHS circa 2009ish going to hammer for a refresh | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Beehive or traditional valve springs? Beehives are much more gentle and don't tend to wear or break stuff prematurely. If you have a choice, then go beehive (my .02). | ||
| Styxnpicks |
they are beehives. | ||
| Cherrypoptart |
I've tried searching for this type of problem on a blast or any other bike and I haven't found much, so thought I'd ask here. So I finally got my new tires installed the other day, and since getting it back I've noticed a knocking type noise coming from the rear wheel area, which sounds kind of like something plastic catching every time the wheel rotates. This occurs just when rolling the bike, the bike doesn't need to be running. I have checked and I can't seem to find anywhere on the belt guard or anything that would be catching. Could it maybe the something with the belt/sprocket? What are your thoughts? | ||
| Ezblast |
Make sure wheels torqued to proper torque - too tight and wheel bearings go south. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The belt can also make noise. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - but unless they did it, they should always check the torque on the wheels to prevent bearing damage. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I wasn't disagreeing, I was just adding to! | ||
| Th3wizard |
My battery dies in a couple of days without ever putting the key in the ignition. Literally the most baffling thing I have ever encountered. I'm selling the blast soon, so I probably won't fix this, but I'd still like to have some input on what the cause could be. (Message edited by Th3wizard on May 02, 2016) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bad battery? Does it happen if you unbolt the battery for a week? |
