| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Yeah - but don't recommend trash for the masses because your too cheap to get decent tires. EZ | ||
| Copper1 |
Oh boy, looks like I sparked the ERR of EZ! You make suggestions all day long, good for you, after all you are the king of the blasters...big wicked give a shit. | ||
| Ezblast |
Ohhhhhh big bad dis!!!! Me feel all heart broken - flake off douche canoe. Erik and I have been helping Blastards for over a decade - you come here and offer your opinion as if you're doing folks a favor - save your wad sparky for someone who cares for what you have to say. Anyone can hold an opinion, and espousing it is fine, but holding it up as better than - is not. EZ | ||
| Brettj |
I have a 2003 blast. Recently after starting the bike and letting the clutch go in (N). The idle will slow and the engine will quit. Slightly increasing RPM for several minutes. I am able to get on the bike and ride with no issues. If I increase the RPM to quickly the engine will also quite on me. Is this a DAS BOOT issue? Im first planning to increasing the idle speed before I replace any parts. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
As you surmised, the rubber intake boot would be the first thing to check. Beyond that, is your bike stock? Any (any) modifications (that you know of)? | ||
| Cherrypoptart |
Again, I realize that the Pirellis are better. They were my initial choice, but seeing as how I am on a pretty tight budget that savings makes a big difference. I have read enough good reviews on the Shinkos to warrant giving them a try. I just want to be sure I get the right size before I buy them. I rode all last summer with Dunlops, so like I said, I'm sure that any tire would be better that that. I'm not a hard rider, I don't plan to push the tire to its limits. As long as it rides ok and is better than what I have on I'll be happy. When I have a little more money to spare, then I'll get the Pirellis. | ||
| Ezblast |
The Shinkos are better than the Dunlops, but that is not a great brag - lol - that said - they have improved their rubber and tread patterns but they still have some consistency issues - keep an eye on their air pressure and wear patterns and adjust accordingly. If you are doing a lot of miles in a day, give em time to cool off. For the everyday - aka - not over 200 miles in a day - they would be fine. Thats the info I got researching them when they announced their upgrading of their product last year. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/406 2/780858.html?1457680028 We shall miss him, even when we bumped heads in arguments, I always respected his side - even disagreeing. He was a kind man who only wanted to help, and he always tried to only put his best foot forward. A very long time Buell fan and rider - he shall be missed. RIP Laf/Buellistic EZ | ||
| Daddyblaize |
http://wh.gov/iGHaK a petition to legalize lane splitting | ||
| Styxnpicks |
Blast is dead 60psi cold compression test | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Rings or valves? | ||
| Styxnpicks |
havnt tore into it yet. I suspect i burnt the exhaust valve. high comp + too much advance + lean = not good things. from what little i can see through the spark plug hole the bore and piston look ok | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Oil test. Put oil in the cylinder (thick oil-1/2 a shot) if compression immediately goes up to normal=bad rings. If it stays the same-bad valves (usually-could also be a bad head gasket or worse on a highly abused engine). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Year and mileage of engine would also indicate if a full top end is needed. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
it only goes up 2psi with oil. only has about 2500-3000 miles on the build. bike never ran right on the fresh build and was running lean for a while with a cracked boot. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Then it's not the rings. Better to know that now before tear down. Keep us posted, thanks. | ||
| Rocketrick |
Hello I'm new to your forum, I have been riding many years. I just purchased my first Blast, and have been trying to find a pro series exhaust. any one know where I could find one? new or used.Thanks | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Search the Badweb classifieds, post a "wanted" ad, watch ebay. The Pro Series is my favourite exhaust, but their longevity is not good and have been discontinued for years. I haven't seen a new one in a long time, used do come around occasionally and they are repairable if not to badly abused. A great exhaust if you're not going to do more mods than the Buell Pro Series cams (Andrews B50's). Beyond that they are too restrictive. You're better off going with the Jardine or the recently (and cheaper) discontinued V & H (which I'm sure will be around for a little while). Next step is to get a Jardine or V & H head pipe and make your own exhaust. | ||
| Rocketrick |
Thanks Gearheaderiko, I got off my wallet and bought a vance and hines on clearance. I just finished resealing the top end and am starting the rear suspension quest. I am considering altering the swingarm to get some belt adjustment or fabricating a belt tensioner. I noticed some models of Buell's have a idler pulley, do those models have ribing on the outside of there belts? thanks any one who might have usefull info. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
There isn't any reason to add adjustment or a belt tensioner unless you're going to raise the suspension, a lot (which would be bad). It uses a ribbed belt, so a tensioner isn't a good idea anyway. | ||
| Rocketrick |
Gearheaderiko, I didn't want to raise it much, just trying to get a real shock under it with out spending several hundred dollars for a adjustable shock. I'm still weighing my options, being that even a slight shock length increase really alters the belt tension is why I was considering a tensioner. I did notice some Buell's have some sort of idler\tensioner doesn't these model have a ribbed belt? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
They don't use a ribbed belt. For your purpose you'll be fine. The stock shock mounts are easily modified for a slightly longer shock and there are some that come close to the Blasts length (have you read the suspension section?). Raise the rear up too much and you'll destroy any gains you might get from a better shock. Take measurements off stock parts to compare. If you're not going any higher than stock fully extended you'll be fine. The Blast doesn't have anywhere near the power you would need to slip a belt. Several hundred dollars is a bargain for what you should pay for a "real" shock! | ||
| Rocketrick |
Thanks Gearheaderiko,Iguess I'm too old several hundred dollars is a lot to me. I am just a old retired flat track racer, I dreamed of using some of my old dirt track parts, I have a beautiful set of ceriani road race forks I was considering using but they are about 1.5-2.0 inches longer. will check the suspension section here Thanks again Rick | ||
| Muddhorn |
Looking for buell mechanic in south jersey. I live near cherry hill NJ, 08034. Anybody, can't fix hard shift between 1 and 2 gear, and hard to find neutral. Checked pins, detent clip, adj pawl. Need HELP. GARY . 609-706-6382 | ||
| Muddhorn |
Anyone out know if sportster primary will fit buell blast. OR looking for blast primary cover with opening to see and check primary fluid and chain tensioner. My 06 doesn't have it | ||
| Ezblast |
No inspection cover - picture please! EZ | ||
| Muddhorn |
After reading several points on this forum. Are people referring to the Cover to adjust clutch as inspection cover ? | ||
| Patches |
have you tried clutch cable adjustment? | ||
| Ezblast |
yes. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You'll learn to live without an inspection cover. The chain isn't that hard to adjust and stays adjusted for a long time (unless you abuse it). If the fluid doesn't leak, there's no reason to worry about it. The clutch adjustment/inspection cover is for checking fluid level. XB primary cover fits. But seriously, you don't need one as annoying as it seems in the beginning. Actually, the "by ear" method is more accurate than feeling/seeing through an inspection hole. You can never be really sure you have the tight or loose spot in the chain. |
