| Author | Message | |||
     Marksblast |
Thank you so so much for Everyone's help this year. Much appreciated. I love my ride... Merry Xmas/Happy Holidays. Safe Travels.   | |||
| Ezblast |
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays! EZ | |||
| Ezblast |
Owner's Manual
EZ | |||
| Jon_webb |
hi my blast died after 99miles on a 100mile ride narrowed problem down to stator (one wire grounded coming from stator) can't find stator with short wiring harness (29967-89b)will the stator with long tail work (29967-89).Much rather ride em than fix em. thanks Jon | |||
| Ezblast |
Yes - would be my guess - though a wire reroute may be needed or shortened. EZ | |||
| Jon_webb |
well it looks like everyone agrees so I'll order the part and let you know how it turns out, any special way to shorten the wire or will cutting out a chunk and using butt connectors to put the end back on ok? thanks jon | |||
| Ezblast |
Wait and see - may just need to reroute the wires coming out - no big deal. EZ | |||
| Slowride |
I picked up a 2009 blast w/1700 miles on it that had been sitting for almost a year from a friend. The bike looks good, but it wouldn't run for more than the time it took to idle due to the bad gas. I took the tank and carb off to clean and drain and saw that the clutch side engine mounting bolt was sheared off in the head. I am assuming that this could mean the large rubber mount is bad and caused the bolt to shear? Also, can I take the head off the engine with out dropping the motor? I'd like to take the head in to have the bolt removed. I just don't trust myself to extract the bolt and not screw up the head. | |||
| Ezblast |
Doesn't have to be a total drop, but still need a jack's support. EZ | |||
| Slowride |
Thanks EZ. That is what I was thinking as well. So, drop the exhaust and then support the engine with a jack and start disassembling the head. Sound right? | |||
| Ezblast |
Severely loosen the Stabilizer bolts - center and the two side - that will allow a drop for enough clearance to get the bolts needed. EZ | |||
| Slowride |
Thank you EZ. I kind of wish I had a service manual for the blast. Thanks Micah | |||
| Th3wizard |
Buellmods.com This website has a PDF service manual for just about every year model. (Message edited by th3wizard on January 30, 2016) | |||
| Ezblast |
   Live link at top of page. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on January 31, 2016) | |||
| Slowride |
Success I picked up some cheap Harbor Freight left handed drill bits and drilled the bolt out until the bit caught and backed out the broken bolt. Sounds like I need a trip to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts. I found the engine mounting link on the head was Kaput! the rubber was reamed out in the link closest to the head. For a bike with 1700 miles, this thing looks like it had a hard engine life. Probably engine idle for long periods. | |||
| Ezblast |
Ahhhh - a RE bike. EZ | |||
| Slowride |
Anyone know where I can get the tie bar links for the blast? | |||
| Ezblast |
HD? | |||
| Slowride |
Yep, they had them for $31 each. | |||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: You probably already know that "i" am selling my 1997 S3T, so here goes on the my BLAST ... It has to go too !!! Have the parts(some extras)to put it back together which would make a good project ... If you or any BLASTers are interested just PM me your phone number, will call back ... | |||
| Ezblast |
Sad to hear - are you giving up riding? That would indeed be sad to hear! EZ | |||
| Swampy |
Hey guys...just checking in! Slowride...try...to get the factory bolts and washers. They are supposed to be some mysteriously hardened bolt from the factory and is the only thing that works. But before you do that check the hole that the bolt goes into, screw the bolt in a little way and see if the bolt wiggles in the hole. If the bolt is loose the bolt will break again. I have 2 Blasts and have done lots of engine mounting bolts. The fix is if the hole is large causing the bolt to wiggle, install heli-coils. After I installed heli-coils I have had zero problems with the bolt breaking. I have outlined the procedure in the knowledge vault...somewhere | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Hey Swampy!! I still have your box of miscellaneous "parts" and it always makes me smile when I run across it! | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
For anybody looking for a windshield: https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/182043386460 Needs the brackets, but it only needs 2 and they are easy to make! IT's SOLD!! That was a serious bargain!! (It wasn't mine, FYI.) (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on March 08, 2016) | |||
| Cherrypoptart |
Getting close to riding season here is Wisconsin, and with that comes getting the Blast ready to ride. I'm putting new tires on her this spring, and after doing some research on this forum I think I'm gonna try out the Shinko SR568R/SR567F set, seeing as how I can get them for under $100. Just checking to be sure before I order them, the 110/70-16 and 140/70-16 will fit on my stock blast with no modifications, correct? | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
I do not know if the 140 Shinko fits BUT, you get what you pay for. Shinko's will wear out in half the time either due to "normal" wear or a severely poor wear pattern. Pony up and get some Pirellis. ST66 for the rear if you want mileage. Diablo if you want performance. Get the stickiest front you can get, which would be the MT 75 in the stock size or the slightly smaller Diablo in the size you mentioned. Your choice depending on ride preference. Shinko's are good for getting a tire on a bike you never ride or are going to sell. Pirelli's aren't that expensive (cheap really) and good tires can save your life, especially the front tire on a Blast. It's not worth it skimping on tires. Seriously, your life may depend on it. | |||
| Copper1 |
I have shinkos on both my blast and on my Electra Glide, they wear excellent and have what I consider great grip. I know that other guys ride these blasts aggressively, but for what and how I ride I ll keep my shinkos. If you plan on racing or sport riding maybe shinko is not the tire for you. | |||
| Cherrypoptart |
What size do you have on Copper1? I don't ride very aggressively, primarily use is a commuter bike. I know that Pirellis are better, but since I can get both Shinkos for the price of just the rear Pirelli and I have read enough good reviews about them I'm gonna give the Shinko a try. Better than the Dunlops I have on currently. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, I guess you will bet your life on it. I can't even imagine Shinko's on an electraglide. You must not go very far, because I couldn't get more than 5000 miles out of a front or a rear. The rear was bald, the front so unevenly worn it was trash, besides the fact it was the worst handling front tire I've ever had on any bike. Anything is better than Dunlops on the Blast. Aggressive riding or not, when you grab the front brake on a Blast, you want the best front tire you can get, the front tire is everything on the Blast. I don't really care what you run on the rear. It will wear quickly or it won't and sliding the rear around is fun-Dunlops were great for that. You might think I'm really beating this to death, but spend your money (extra $30 for a good front?) or invest in extra insurance. $30 or $50,000 in hospital bills, your choice.  | |||
| Copper1 |
Well here in Florida, I have never experienced a problem. I ride my buell as a commuter bike and the tires wear well. I have yet to have any problem with them. I don't know your experience, but I m happy with these tires. I m no expert on about anything, but you buy what you like, I ll buy what I like. |
