| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
PS You don't NEED a SuperBoot. A stock boot will last a very long time on a good running Blast. Once you add a backfire or heavy unsupported carb and reliability goes out the window. Whether you buy a SuperBoot or not, carry an extra stock boot "just in case". | ||
| Th3wizard |
My bike is a black 2007, but it was used in the beginner class at Bumpus H-D in Memphis, so literally everything is scratched, and I only have small remnants of the original decals. Foot peg brace is bent, and headlight/windscreen brackets are bent and rusted. This thing hasn't been treated very well. Are th e black plastics valuable if they are covered in scratches? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I couldnt say without looking, but they are still more valuable and desirable (certainly much more than painted plastic). Light scratching is normal with age and miles. Its your call, but black is infinitely more popular and sell well, even badly scratched. If any of the other stock colors are acceptable to you, buy some used plastic or paint some poor condition other color plastics. They can be had VERY cheap. Even though none of my Blasts are black anymore, I still keep a set of black bodywork! | ||
| Ezblast |
You can still buy the plastics new. EZ | ||
| Hevermind |
A few weeks ago my Blast became hard to start, would die at idle, would die while riding. Because the symptoms were consistent with a boot leak, I replaced Das Boot, the intake boot between the carb and the intake manifold pipe, which didn't fix the problem. Took the carb completely off and took it apart and checked the jets. All clean. WTF? Put it all back together. Riding it at this point in my process is strange, it'll start die at idle sometimes within a few seconds, sometimes I can rev it up but then it will completely lose power at the top end and die, but if I keep the throttle pinned open, when it reaches the bottom of the revs it'll suddenly "catch" and start firing again and WOOMP the bike will take off. Okay, so then I figured it must be ignition. The spark plug is new, checked continuity on the spark wire. All good. Bought a new spark wire anyway, just in case. Opened the little cover on the side of the crank case to check the ignition module, it lights up consistently with every fire. No apparent problems with the module. Figuring it must at this point be something electrical or with the safety switches, I disabled the kickstand switch, no effect. (As an aside, I read on here that people usually have to cut and twist the wires for the kickstand switch... that's weird, because I just unplugged mine and it effectively disabled it.) Played with the Neutral switch and the clutch, trying to get a reproducible response. Nothing. Okay, not the switches then as far as I can tell. I followed most of the wiring harness, checking and pushing each connection to make sure it's seated correctly. Nothing amiss. Then I noticed a strange occurrence. I can start the bike and it seems to idle fine. So I figure hey, maybe I'll try to take it up and down the street and see if there is new behavior. I grab the seat and pop the little tab in it's spot in the frame, then seat the pin in its little spring assembly, then push down on the seat to lock it. And the bike dies. WTF? Take the seat off, start the bike, put the seat on, push it down, bike dies. I notice theres wear on the plastic under the seat from rubbing against the battery terminals. So I tried just pushing on the battery, bike dies. Maybe time for a new battery? And if I get one, how do I keep the seat from smashing the battery terminals and ruining the next battery, presuming thats what caused the battery to fail? I have not Ohm'ed the ignition coil yet, maybe I will do that, but at this point its pretty clear cut that the battery or something very close to the battery is causing strange problems. Here is a youtube link to a little video I made to show you what I am talking about. | ||
| John040700 |
I replaced the head with a good used unit when the front engine mount broke and busted out the bolt mounting on the head. Afterwards bike sat for several years (tank was flushed). Took it to a repair shop and after replacing the stock unit with a superboot it will start when cold and run good for a few minutes then start running real rough, backfiring and dying. The carb has been cleaned out twice and tank flushed twice but same problem. Does anyone have any suggestions? 6400 miles. K&N, Vance and Hines. Thanks | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Your battery is either, wrong or installed wrong. Battery cables don't mount like that. | ||
| Hevermind |
John040700, sounds like your ignition module is bad. Open the little cover on the crankcase and watch the light. | ||
| Chipmyers |
I'm with Eric on this one, for what it's worth, something just doesn't look right. Head to good ole walmart and grab a cheap battery. Not the highest quality, but they are cheap. And if the battery is not the problem just return it....   | ||
| Hevermind |
Can one of you guys post a pic of the underside of your seat? I think the PO took some lug bushing thingies off that keep the eat from smashing the battery terminals. The strange thing is sometimes I can reproduce the engine dying by pressing on other parts of the back of the bike not just the battery, but the gist of it is that as soon as you apply weight to the bike it dies. It's so weird I can't narrow down the problem. | ||
| Anonymous |
Hello are there any Beullers in Toledo? I'm headed from Cleveland to Detroit and just blew out a rear wheel bearing. And would like to buy or borrow a rear wheel till I can get new bearings. I have a truck on the way from Detroit, but figured I would post up and see if anyone is close just the same | ||
| Chipmyers |
Looked at the video again and bet ya I know what went wrong. The cables are hooked into the top of the battery and not the sides. That is what looks screwy. I would be willing to guess that the lead plates in the battery have been broken by the seat crunching down onto the terminals. Grab an ohm meter and check to see if the battery does not short out when you push down on the middle. Just a hunch.... Not really. P.S. the battery was missing in mine when I got it, and I did the same thing...... | ||
| Ezblast |
Street_sweeper (user) aka Anonymous - the Anony button is for Buell/EBR staff and Owners and Erik Buell to use. Usually such posts are deleted, but because your's is an emergency in purpose - I'll let it stand - hope that helps. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on September 12, 2015) | ||
| Street_sweeper |
Thanks EZ, not sure why my phone wasn't allowing me to post under my name earlier, but it is now. I would like to think it had to do with all the water. | ||
| Chipmyers |
No prob.. Under the seat  | ||
| Chipmyers |
Let me try this again. Picture of under the seat.  | ||
| Street_sweeper |
Welp, finally got my bike straightened out. And made it back to GR just in time for cake and sing a long for my Sister's birthday. But not before I picked up a proper rain suit. Jacket, Pants, Gloves and Gators. I guess being cold and wet for 7hrs in North West Ohio will do that to you. Not sure how long wheel bearings generally last on these bikes, I put new tires on 2000 miles ago, and figured it didn't need it then, what with only 3400 miles total at the time. Now with a blown out bearing at 5300. I can't think of any reason why you wouldn't change the bearings ANY time the wheels come off. Seriously at 9 bucks a bearing... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well...your profile says "Honda Elite", so I don't know!!!:-| Earlier models had more failures. Overzealous washing can ruin bearings, especially if done when the bike has sat for a long time (like all winter). The Blast wheels are on the soft side (some years seemingly softer), so changing the bearings every time you change a tire could wear the hub out. Bearings can last a very long time, quality replacement should last forever!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Hevermind, sounds like a loose wire, possibly internal battery break, bad safety switch. All could be triggered by a shift in the bikes position. | ||
| Hevermind |
Gearheaderiko, i got a new batt and it's still doing the same thing! The symptoms are: it's hard to start, but it will idle for a while, then if I get on the bike to take it down the street it revs up but loses power like either at the top of the rev or once I let off the throttle. It pretty much dies at the top and all I hear is compression on the way down. When I stop, it's hard to start again but it'll start. Tonight I rode up and down the street a couple of times with it dying but watching the ignition module and the lights flashing even when there's power loss. Red light means spark, right? I looked in a service manual I found online and I can't find anything in it about the ignition module so I'm at my wits end with this thing. I don't want to give up on it but I cannot figure out what's wrong with the bike. It will start and even take off with the kickstand down or unplugged so I don't think it's the kickstand switch. How can I tell if it's some other safety switch? And how can I diagnose another part of the electrical system? I don't know what to do. | ||
| Th3wizard |
Unplugging the kickstand switch is not the same as cutting and twisting wires. When the kickstand is up it pushes a button that completes the circuit. Un plugging it is basically the same as having the stand down, the circuit is not complete. | ||
| Ezblast |
Hev - your battery is hooked up wrong - see Chip's pick. EZ | ||
| Hevermind |
Wizard - if I put it in gear the bike will take off with the kickstand safety plugged in and the kickstand down. Same as if I unplug it, it will also take off. Which if I understand correctly it's not supposed to do right? Like if I put it in gear with the kickstand down (or unplugged for that matter) and release the clutch to get the bike moving, the safety system if working correctly should kill the engine. Right? Which means the kickstand safety is not functioning correctly. Meaning it's not the switch itself but something higher up the chain in the electrical system. Ez - that battery is Harley part number 65948-00A which is the correct part number for the bike supposedly and it lacks the ability to connect the cables to the sides or top of the terminals. With that battery I can't mount the cables any other way than the way you see. Also, I figured out its not the battery. I bought a battery from a shop nearby and charged it and tried the bike with it and it's having the same problems, hard to start, dies at the top of the rev, etc. so I don't think it's the batt it's gotta be some kind of short. (Message edited by Hevermind on September 15, 2015) | ||
| Th3wizard |
EZ I have been trying to find a new headlight and haven't seen anything I like, except for the red one you had back in 2005 and 2006. Could you please tell me where to find it? Or if you aren't using it can I buy yours? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/238530.html | ||
| Ezblast |
They are on Ebay for like 40 bucks. The battery is to be connected on the side terminals, not the top, and all hd batteries now are suposed to be closed gel type - to prevent fires - at least 260 amps - factory is 310. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Streetfighter +headlights+-+bright&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p 2045573.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.XStreetfighter+h eadlights.TRS0&_nkw=Streetfighter+headlights&_saca t=0 EZ | ||
| Cherrypoptart |
Another month, another thing that needs work on my Blast... My rear brake is no longer working. There is no resistance on the brake lever when I press it, pump it a few times, nothing happens. Should I try bleeding the rear brake? | ||
| Ezblast |
A 10 year old bike. Try bleeding. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Perhaps time to reconsider Shinko tires - especially with the rubber upgrade two years ago and the now excellent reviews they are getting - http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/20389/i/shink o-sr568r-rear-scooter-tire and this video - https://www.facebook.com/Legendarymotorcycle/video s/1067406533270933/ EZ | ||
| Th3wizard |
I've read that our battery is the same as the v-rod and that it can more than handle powering lights while starting the Blast. When I try to start my bike the lights get very dim/flicker off while it is cranking. It never starts up though, and I just replaced the boot and can feel good suction leading into the carb. Is this a battery problem? Battery is 9 years old. (Message edited by th3wizard on September 22, 2015) | ||
| Chipmyers |
These are what we have on our blast. Don't really ride aggressively and the ONE time I have been caught in the rain they certainly did not inspire the confidence in me to try that,but they did OK. 3500 miles or so and seem to be holding up fine. 1 size wider in the rear, 1 size taller in front works well as suggested. If you are canyon carving they are probably not your first choice, but for my wife scooting around and I enjoying the country roads a bit faster,more than adequate. |
