| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
If the caliper isn't leaking, you're probably okay. Pictures would help. The reason you lost brakes is because when the bearing goes, the wheel and rotor wobble. This brake rotor wobble in turn pushes the brake pads back in the caliper, increasing the distance the pads have to travel to contact the rotor. That's why not went from 1/4" to 2" of brake pedal travel. At a standstill though, the brakes will usually return to normal after being hit once or twice. Of course, this extra brake pedal travel on an older brake system can cause master cylinder failure. That's because since the pedal rarely if ever travel that far, that part of the system can corrode. That corrosion ruins the seals. I hope that's not too much information!! | ||
| Anonymous |
Hello bad weather bikers, I am having a random problem with my mostly stock, so far as I know 2001 blast. Occasionally just after start up and letting the bike idle to warm up. I hop on an as I engage the clutch the engine stalls. It's starts a little harder than the first and I try again. And this behavior continues. It seems to run perfect with no load. Idle and revving the throttle sounds no different than when it's running properly. Only difference is when I'm having trouble ANY amount of friction zone stalls the engine. At first this only happened after it sat for hours but today it did it after warm up and no issue riding for a few miles. I hopped off to run an errand and tried to leave after only about 5 minutes or less. Then it started doing it again. Meaning I no longer believe that operating temperature has anything to do with it. The only way I can get it to stop is to hold throttle rev near limit. And repeatedly enter friction zone until I'm rolling fast enough to fully engage the clutch. Then once I bang thru a couple of gears and it goes back to normal. WTF? I've got to the point where I test it using my feet on the ground to try and stall it before I go anywhere, because when it's doing this it gets dicey in traffic. If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them. 2001 buell blast (i picked up with 2900 miles) It now has 3400 or so and this problem appeared in the last 100 or 2 Up until the last fill up I ran 87 only to see the fuel tag on the swing arm while changing out a new set of tires. The last fill up was 93, and I'm about ready to fill up again. It would also blow back through the carb(puff of air on my left pant leg) so I figured it was lean due to bad carb coupler. So I ordered and installed the DC parts boot and for a day or two I thought I had that fixed. But no that has made no difference. I typed this on my phone so if something doesn't quite make sense I'll edit once I get home from work and can use a computer. Thanks | ||
| Street_sweeper |
That is my 2001 with the stalling problem. I had everything typed out and for some reason wouldn't let me post it so I had to hit anonymous. I did want to risk starting all over. | ||
| Ezblast |
hmmm - well since you outed yourself - I'll let it stand - lol - (Message edited by ezblast on July 22, 2015) | ||
| Ezblast |
Try flipping the center diode and deleting the kickstand safety switch by cutting and twisting the wires together. Sounds like it could be a safety switch issue, if you know your intake coupler is good - if not then I would say das boot! EZ | ||
| Jmoe515 |
New Lithium Ion Battery. Way smaller and lighter!  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
As is your wallet!! | ||
| Jmoe515 |
Well worth the $80. I've had to replace two AGM batteries is the last 5 years! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
$80??!!!!!!  I was thinking $200! Same CCA as the stocker? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Not the same CCA. Maybe I'm in the dark on this one, let us know how it works out! | ||
| Jmoe515 |
Nope. 120 CCA. Spins it over just as good as the stocker. Mind you the stock battery is the same one they put in Harleys. Way overkill. I have all LED light too, so don't need as many amps either. | ||
| Buellistic |
Notice one has 7.9Ah and the other has 12Ah, IS THAT CRANKING AMPS ??? Iam Noone | ||
| Ezblast |
My Shorei was only 110 another 80 for the charger though, the charger was important, for battery electronic maintenance - using EBR's patented tech - so the battery won't catch fire - it is 210 cca, Blast stock is 260 cca, mine does well, in the winter time it needs about 3 tries to turn over, but otherwise it does it, each crank stronger than the last - just have to throw it on maintenance for 15 minutes each month to keep it's electronic side at a hundred percent. It's size is a cigarette pack and a half, weight just over a pound, and with the the small space I have between seat and frame - the bottom laying inside the frame, unlike the stock XBS plastic pan that fits outside the bottom of the frame - so it's very tight, but everything fits! And that tiny battery made it all possible and helped keep the weight down to a new low - from 345 to 305 - yes - I am a very happy man in that respect.  As you can see I paired down every pound - eliminating even blinkers, fenders, etc. - the only wild weight I kept was the headlight, but by having the blinkers incorporated, and knowing that the whole system was ultra bright as is the rear XB Lights tail light with incorporated signals. It kinda bugs me - cause if I ditched that headlight in favor of plastic - I'd be close to 300 or go under but then the style would not be the classic cafe that it is, though very new school. The tiny lithium battery was key for making that happen though - a regular battery would have been way to large and heavy to work - it would have went right through my current wiring floor which is ultra thin alum diamond plate - secured with 6 small nuts and bolts and sealed with silicone. To re-enforce it I made the three piece tail one piece by having that all welded together. It is actually way lighter than the stock XBS tail because I did not add all of the rest of the mess, keeping it down to the basics. The whole bike is a lesson for me in minimalism with modern functionality. The original British Cafe sight declared the Blast as America's last hope for a decent true Cafe - I think in this I delivered. Though as always it is still a work in progress - perhaps the Lectron Carb, etc. http://web.archive.org/web/20010302061710/http://www.caferace.com/buell.html EZ (Message edited by ezblast on July 27, 2015) | ||
| Cherrypoptart |
So got the clutch cable fixed without too much trouble (other than the **** arms for the footpegs). But not I've got more problems... First off the gas cap is sticking, which I've researched and decided I'll pony up another $60+ for a new cap and boot. I've got the part number for the cap, P0153.TA. Does anyone know the part number for a new gas tank boot? I can't seem to find it. Second problem is my carb is leaking. There is a small area you can see leaking onto the stock airbox(pic below) and a small bit in the air box itself. I've tried tapping the bowl with the screwdriver, doesn't help. My dad thinks it might be a seal, and I got a rebuild kit with the bike. Thoughts?  | ||
| Ezblast |
Need new bowl gasket/o-ring. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! And please, please, please, dont take the carb apart to "give it a good cleaning" just because you have the parts kit. No good often comes from this and its usually followed by "now my Blast wont run right". | ||
| Th3wizard |
Hey all, I think I may need some help. I took the rear wheel off to change the bearings and something doesn't seem right. I'm by no means a mechanic so any input would be greatly appreciated. I followed the service manual to get the wheel off, but it didn't mention anything between the left and right spacer. There is a long piece of metal tubing that is the same diameter as the inner bearing race. I tried several times to upload pictures but I keep getting an error message. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That piece goes inside the wheel hub. It keeps the bearings spaced apart or they would be damaged when tightening down the axle nut. | ||
| Th3wizard |
Is it supposed to go in before the bearings? The axle is the only thing holding it in place, otherwise it falls down inside the hollow part of the rim. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, It is supposed to go in before the bearings. You shouldn't have a problem with it falling inside the hub once the bearings are in. | ||
| Ezblast |
Tree fast handling Blasts!  EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 who's who? | ||
| Ezblast |
The Blast on the left is Vader - mine - with it's world of mods. The center Blast is Rat Blastard - owned by Lee - is fuel injected with all XB9 components, and a duplicate of the Force exhaust. The Blast on the right is Revan - owned by Nick - head and piston matched, and using max thin gaskets for a 10 plus comp. and a custom exhaust. He is still a bit new to the game and has a stock ignition, but is looking to get the C5 ignition. All three bikes though - as you can tell - have a world of modifications happening on them. Nick - since he does a lot of night time riding, being in the military - has the brightest LED system you can imagine - and still he is thinking of going to two solid bars of LEDS - lol - definite Dark side folk - they would make you proud. EZ | ||
| Th3wizard |
I haven't had much time to mess with my bike, but after a month I finally got the rear wheel bearings replaced and the Axel nut torqued down. I rode around the neighborhood yesterday and it began sputtering like the gas was running out. I had a half tank, but switched to reserve in case I had counted milage wrong. Still wouldn't start up. Just cranks and cranks. I'm going to attribute it to das boot. It's a 2007 with original boot from factory. After parking in the garage for an hour or so I noticed a bit of oil on the floor. I followed it to the bottom of the exhaust, and up to a large bolt that was slowly dripping oil. It's one of the large bolts on the underside of the crankcase(?). I've tried to find pictures but I think I was searching for the wrong thing. It's right below the shifter lever, near where the clutch cable enters the motor. It screws up through the bottom of the motor. On my bike the bolt appears to be screwed out halfway, but has a nut and washer pressed against the bottom of the motor. I noticed 3 of these bolts, one towards the front, one in the middle (I think this one is leaking), and one towards the back. The front and back are screwed in all the way and don't have a nut or washer. Anyway, I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with this or knows what to do. The cable itself had some oil residue, but not nearly as fresh as the dripping nut. I will try to provide pictures, I just have to figure out how to reduce resolution. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That's the primary chain adjustment nut and bolt. It's not a drain plug (but it will drain out if you remove the bolt). DO NOT attempt to stop the leak by tightening it up. The nut, which is a "jam nut", should be tight, but cranking down on it will strip the threads and you'll need a repair  It's possible the chain case (or transmission or primary) is leaking elsewhere and dripping off the lowest point. Very frequently it leaks where the clutch cable goes in to the primary chain case cover, ESPECIALLY if the bike has been sitting for a while. Clean up the oil and see where it leaks from. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'd also check your safety switches. But first Id see if you have spark while it cranks over. No spark indicates an ignition problem, which in the Blast is often a bad safety switch. | ||
| Th3wizard |
Visible hole in the boot, so I'm not going to try to start it until the new one arrives. The oil is indeed leaking from where clutch cable enters gear cover by the foot peg. Does anyone know of a step by step guide for fixing this? Or a link to download the service manual? | ||
| Ezblast |
Try tightening it a quarter turn at most, but do not over tighten, they can get loose from vibration. EZ | ||
| Th3wizard |
Oil leak is fixed, new air filter installed, now I just need a boot. I saw Dan's boot on eBay, but is there a way to buy it without using eBay? I sent Dan a message, but I can't figure out how the message system for badweb works. I'm planning on buying some plasti dip spray cans and giving my bike a whole new suit. Has anyone used plasti dip on their bikes? I was wondering if I need to prep the surface or if cleaning the dirt off is good enough. And should I remove the Blast decals or just spray over them? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Open Dans profile (Thumpe) and click on the send a message link. If you actually have black plastics in good or better condition, save them and buy some used plastic in another color, cheap. Black is the holy grail of colors and to ruin a good set by painting them would be a huge waste of money, especially if you plan to ever sell your bike. Remove the stickers with a hair dryer. Easy. Plasti-dip works as does plastic paint or all material paint. I would clean them well and not sand them. (results may vary. Not everyone can achieve the same result as talent varies) Do a paint search here and read what others have done. Again, painting good black bodywork is like throwing money away and if yellow, red, orange, white, purple or blue is more to your liking, you'll easily find someone to trade your black bodywork with and it will look much nicer. Consider just painting your gas tank without the cover on. Also a non destructive change in major looks can be achieved with decals. |
