| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toYTwg2XR-0 EZ | ||
| No_rice |
i can try the air idle screw at 2 easy enough. did just have the plug out to check all that the other day. it is definitely firing because its pretty white... even with all the cranking over and not starting... its not caramel colored. which would mean lean... im assuming you mean the diaphragm on the vacuum piston? yes i mean it backfires at idle, but shows no sign of a problem if i was to actually go ride it. or even give it a little throttle. then it seems to run just fine with no noticable problems or backfires. i tried adjusting the enricher as show in the video a day or 2 ago. can not get that thing to turn... afraid if i apply much more pressure things are going to start breaking... i was looking at swapping the enricher from one of my other blasts, but havent exactly come across an easy way to reset the tps if i was to do that yet. | ||
| Ezblast |
Try some WD40 to set in, then dry off and then try - mine was very resistant as well - and I thought much the same that it would break - but instead it gave in. EZ | ||
| Cherrypoptart |
Was going to ride to work the other day, started up the blast, went to put it into first gear, and snap...the clutch cable snapped. At least it happened in the lot and not on the road though. But anyways, I've been looking online, and this is the best replacement I've found so far... http://www.barnettclutches.com/2010/buell/0/0/2005 -buell-blast.html But I'd like to not have to spend $60 plus shipping...are there any cheaper alternatives from say another make/model of bike that i could use? Mine is a 2005 if that matters. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Barnett is probably the last clutch cable you'll ever have to buy for your Blast. Buy it! | ||
| Cherrypoptart |
I found this slightly cheaper on Amazon, and honestly the main reason I want to get in on Amazon is because I can get it quicker through Amazon prime. Would this fit my bike? It only lists through as fitting through model year 2002 (again mine is 2005) http://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Black-Vinyl-Clutch-1 01-31-10002HE/dp/B000GV8JXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid =1435706953&sr=8-1&keywords=barnett+clutch+cable+b uell+blast | ||
| Ezblast |
No - no adjustment EZ | ||
| Odd |
Is there a way to lower a blast? | ||
| Marksblast |
I am wondering about rpm’s. I have adjusted the idle speed screw to where it should be. Idle mix at 2 1/2 turns out. My rpm’s are lower on start up. According to my TTO tach. At 1400 rpm’s. And I record this. Then after a ride. Or at stop lights. It idles around 1900 rpm’s. If I lower the idle speed screw. It has a hard time staying on start up. I’m only adjusting the idle speed screw from about 2 o’clock to 4 o’clock. So not a lot. Also, I’m not sure I am getting the best gas mileage. After 2 tanks. About 35 mpg. That is also in the city. Stop and go traffic. This being said. Today was my very first highway drive on the bike. RPM range seems to normal as per a buell blast rpm chart I pulled from the net. All though at about 60-65 mph I hit 8 - 9000 rpm’s for a short short time. On down hills. **Is that normal? Upon returning home. Engine rpm’s running around 2000 rpm’s. But I worked out my litres/100 kms. mpg. I got 4 litres per 100 kms. Or 57.5 miles per gallon. After all that and my mods. That is pretty Fantastic according to the forums. **Do I even want to care about what the tach is telling me? ; -). I’m running a 48/180. From 46/180 for the past few months. Premium gas. I think the bike runs fantastic. As new as I am to it. Great throttle response, Lots of power. No strange sounds that I am aware of. Still more throttle room at my highest speed for the first day. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sure you can lower a Blast, fairly easily. What are you trying to accomplish by lowering? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Okay, you've got a bunch of issues: Blast rev limit is set at 6500rpms. Valve float happens at 6800 rpms. I've heard people run stock up to 7200 rmps racing, I doubt you could go much more than that and not incite damage, so 8000-9000 rpms is highly improbable with an un modified Blast (8000 rpm is about 45 mph in first gear or about 85 mph in 4th gear and well past 100 mph in 5th). That being said, I don't think your 1400 - 1900 rpms are reliable numbers. So trying to diagnose a problem based on those numbers isn't wise. If true, it sounds like a bad or disconnected auto enrichener and a leaking carb boot. Not the only possibilities, but most plausible with what I've read. | ||
| Odd |
The girl that wants one has really short legs and can only tippy toe a blast with the low seat and boots on. I would need 1 to 2 inchs. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I would consider shaving the seat and a minor shock mount modification. Neither is that difficult. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 It's top mounting point of the rear shock that needs to be modified. Not hard to do and welding isn't required. 1/4" at the shock mount = 1" height at the rear wheel. So you don't have to go far to get your desired result. The above pic is showing the modification to use a longer shock in the rear. Your modification would be less involved. | ||
| Marksblast |
Thanks eriko. I'm not sure that I am concerned with the idle rpm/s. As much. I record the sound daily. And am trying to match it to other 1000rpm idles that I hear. Example ratblastard. Maybe the Tao Tach just is not working right? My highway ride, and reaching 8-9000 rpm's at some points, for short periods. That worry's me, now. Do I start with finding out if the auto-enricher is bad or off. How would I know that? What damage could I have done? Any other things to check. I have watched Jetlee's auto enricher video. I see how it works. But how would one know, It's not working? The carb boot is barely 300 kms old. It is dan's superboot. I did buy a spare from him as well. One can click on 'marksblast' to see all my mods. thanks | ||
| Odd |
did you have any problem with the belt tension after the moving the shock? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Odd, If you're just lowering the bike an inch, maybe 2 tops with the shock, it will be just like a heavy rider riding the bike, you won't have a problem. If the rider IS heavy, then you don't want to go more than an inch on using the shock. Take some height out of modifying the seat first. That won't impact any functions. Then go from there. | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Eric, What do you recommend for an after market shock for a 2009 Blast with a 170 LB rider? Kenny G | ||
| Odd |
she is maybe 110. I might have to find her another blast the one I just got is a 2000 never dropped or used for rider edge. I know it will be dropped by her.I feel bad tossing a good blast down the road. | ||
| Odd |
Alright it's hers, after I fix the three oil leaks.Anyone have a good way to remove paper gaskets? | ||
| Millotorres27 |
It's been about a month since I've been able to ride my Buell. I went out of town for a couple of weeks and when I came back the battery was dead. So I recharged it and it started right up. However only road it for a couple of days before I ran into some trouble. It would continue to start up but while in neutral (or even 1st) I would rev it and once it passed about 1,500 rpm it would die out. So I took it to a friends shop who's been working on it since. However while it sat in my friends driveway for a few days I decided to change out the stock handlebars to some lower profile bars. Keep in mind, prior to changing the handlebars it would start right up it just wouldn't be able to get too much throttle (at least not enough to ride). So I changed the handlebars and with the new ones on I clicked the starter switch and nothing. Not even a click on the starter. Nothing zip. It's as if the starter switch was disconnected completely. Now back to the acceleration problem when I opened up the carb and cleaned it, it wasn't even that dirty but one of the gaskets was broken in half. Could that have caused the lack of acceleration and made it die out everytime I gave it too much gas? Now back to the starter. My buddy mechanic is saying that it has nothing to do with my starter switch he said I probably need a starter rebuild kit. Either that or connect the starter button directly to the ignition and battery. So does any of this sound right? I desperately need my bike running again and am very frustrated and can't keep spending money on things that aren't causing the problem. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!! | ||
| Ezblast |
Starter is fine, Try charging the battery again, then check and see if it is holding a charge - it may not be - motorcycle batteries usually last only a year or two or three - rarely more. Deal with getting it started, stop messing with so much stuff at once. Make sure intake coupler is good as well. Odd - I used a3m product - attaches to a drill and gently buffs the gasket off - use a really light touch though - you don't want an uneven surface. Thanks Eriko nice pick a copy needs to go in the suspension section - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on July 08, 2015) | ||
| Odd |
Thanks EZ I will try that.Thanks also Eriko the picture was very helpful! | ||
| Tarpot |
Am I missing something? Has somebody actually found a shock to replace the stock Showa? Even with the slight mod to the mounting bracket? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That would be correct. It wasnt that there wasn't a possible shock out there, it was just finding the one with a close enough spring rate and travel, that wasn't off some rare motorcycle! There are a few possibilities now  Running under $100 on eBay, sometimes half that!! | ||
| Ezblast |
Actually there are several inexpensive choices - http://buellridersonline.com/forum/showthread.php? t=6490 A little light reading to go with the above. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Blast spring rate stock is 800lbs - better is 900 to 1000 - depending on how heavy you are. Also Blast shock length is 10.65 inches eye to eye - so something close to that is preferable, though ErikO's mod can handle differences - lol - a good option needing only some extra washers to mount it squarely - 10 washers in all - 5 top, 5 bottom - http://www.ebay.com/itm/DNM-280mm-MT-BAG-Rear-Moto rbike-Shock-MK-AR-Chinese-Thumpster-PIT-PRO-Bike-/ 261371151724?hash=item3cdaef456c or http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIT-BIKE-SHOCK-DNM-REAR-28 0MM-REMOTE-RES-ADJUSTABLE-/390820243438?hash=item5 afeb3a7ee EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, interesting reading, but I can't start reading at 2011 to see how it all turns out! Lol! I'm sure all the bad information gets corrected in the end. I know EZ and Jet-Lee wouldn't let bad info stand uncorrected!! that's basically an FYI. Start at the most recent posts and work backwards, if you want the right information! | ||
| Th3wizard |
Sorry to change the subject, but I'm having a problem. Yesterday while riding something started squeaking. My rear wheel began to wobble and it felt like something was dragging on the tire when decelerating, so much so that it would skid and hop a few times when coming to a stop. My rear brake pedal had previously been very stiff and had little travel, I didn't think anything of it as this is my first vehicle. At some point yesterday my rear brake stopped working and my pedal could travel an inch or 2 before stopping when before it would only depress about a 1/4 inch. So now my pedal can be fully depressed but applies no pressure to the brake. It's not dragging on the rotor because I can push it up my driveway in neutral. After searching on here I found a few pictures of bad bearings that looks exactly like mine, they all had an ugly orange/brown splatter around where the bearing had blown. I can't find anything on the brakes though. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? | ||
| Th3wizard |
Today I put the bike on the rear stand. The rear wheel easily wobbles so I know that bearings are a must have. But when I was riding yesterday I was a few miles from home so I kept riding, not knowing what damage I was causing. Well today I looked and saw that the rotor had dug a groove into the caliper, and the caliper is a tad loose. My question is whether the caliper is safe to use or if I need a new one? |
