| Author | Message | ||
     Chief_ten_bears |
long day yesterday... first up, installing new tires. i ordered a pair of Shinko's in the factory stock sizing. Shinko SR568 for the rear and SR740 for the front  using my bike stands, up goes the buell and off come the wheels. taking the wheels off is very straightforward as per the service manual   to break the bead, i used a combination of large c clamps and a series of 2x4's under the edge of my deck, like a large lever, to push down on the bead. the front bead broke easy. the back one? damn near impossible. i was ready to hacksaw the tire off... but i eventually got it. using several tire irons and rim protectors, as well as plenty of lube, i got the tires off. once off, i gave the rims a quick wipe down/clean    installation went ok. both new tires went on ok. to set the bead, i set my compressor at about 80 psi, and removed the shraeder valve and just put the air nozzle into the valve directly. front tire took a few tries to pop, rear tire set first time round. i used a bit of soapy water to lube the bead to help it set. both tires installed. also, for the rear, because of the big horkin drive pully, i removed the brake rotor on the opposite side so i would have much more room with the tire irons. i reinstalled the rotor when complete as per the manual (threadlocker, star pattern to torque)  wheels back on. i cleaned the axle's, and used some antiseize on each axle as well before sliding back into the wheels  i needed new brakes for the front, so i ordered up a pair of EBC organic kevlar pads. i prefer organic for everyday all purpose riding. sintered are nice and do provide that instant 2 finger stop, but i prefer the linear feeling of organics, again for every day riding. plus, you can get them wet and still stop. installation was easy, slide them in each side of the caliper, and just make sure the top clip is aligned in the top of the caliper, i had to remove the caliper again to fix the clip  thats where i called it quits yesterday. it got up to about 14 C yesterday, and i could hear countless motorcycles all day in the background, it was our first official day this year weather wise and everyone was out. but, i can only do so much in the day and i knew today was supposed to be even nicer, so i got up early this morning, watched my PVR'd Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix, then headed back outside to finish the bike. today i didn't have to much further to go. first up was installing the footpeg frame brackets, i had removed them to respray  then it was getting everything back installed on the bike. airbox, reattach carb with new gasket, new sparkplug, some dielectric grease in the wire, stuff like that. also installed a new regulator since i did the stator   finally, with everything on, i filled up the bike with some fresh 20W50. i remounted the gas tank, connected the plumbing, and was ready to start the bike   the bike came to life instantly, with nary a burble or hesitation, nothing. just instant life, and i don't think i've ever heard it idle so nicely. i let it warm up for a bit, and got down and started looking for leaks. none. excellent. got out the multimeter to check the battery. at idle a full 14.5 V. perfect. suited up and went for a shakedown ride. no issues. so i went out for my first ride of the year, it was 16 C today and it felt great to be back on the road. the Buell runs like a top.   i've still got some more things to do, minor stuff. i have to install my newly implemented breather catch can, as well as the fuel breather tube, i still want to bleed the brakes, and maybe even spray the frame still, maybe on a rainy day when i can let the bike sit | ||
| Chief_ten_bears |
for a breather oil catch can, i've used a basic fuel filter last year, tested "my design" out per say, cobbled it together with some 3/8 hose and a breather filter i had laying around. it works well, but i wanted something a bit nicer and finished  so i made this. it's a small bottle, with a 3/8 tee in the cap. i sprayed it with plasti dip for a finish, and tried to make a little window along one side so i can see the inside. to drain, you would just unscrew the bottle from the cap which would still be mounted to the bike with the hose/filter, and screw the bottle back on etc   while i had the plasti dip out, i decided to also spray my helmet. it's a snell rated HJC, and 3 years old now. i'll have to replace it in a couple more years, but its still a really good helmet and i wanted to change it up a bit from this:  to this:   | ||
| Chief_ten_bears |
bled both front and rear brakes today. old fluid was pretty brown compared to fresh dot 4  | ||
| Patches |
Chief_ten_bears, Glad to hear you got it running again. Bike looks good. | ||
| Marksblast |
I have just finished putting in Dan’s Full Intake Kit to my 2009 blast. Idle speed, mix screws. See my profile for Mods done. Very Happy! Now, I am about to undertake Adjusting the Primary. The Blast has only 1800 kms (1100 miles). Harley did not take out the Spacer at it’s first service at 1000 kms. 1 - Now: I loosened the Jam Nut. And pulled out the spacer. Adjusted the Chain Limiting Screw to the Manual 24in.lbs. Then backed off ( it says) 4 1/2 flats. But I when with 14 as per what someone on the forum said. That worked. It was about a ‘hair’ further / looser than the Spacer was. Sounded good. But NO I had to go back and Tinker with the sound method. 2 - I loosened the Jam Nut. MAYBE to much? And started on the Chain limiting. I think I went to tight/ Idle slowed, and it started smoking. (Looked like it was coming from the Catch Can)? Why smoke? I stopped and went back in the house. 3 - I came back Tried again. Loosened Jam Nut. Got the Rattle to go away. I’m pretty sure the Whirling sound too. And back to the, about 3/8th space as before. I guess my question is. Can you loosen the Jam Nut too much? Should I have loosened it at all? Then it gets tightened to Manual Says. 20 ft.lbs. sounds like a lot.. That’s what it says. Did I mess anything up. Why did I get smoke?? First real test with my new Torque wrench ; -). When I go for a ride. Are there signs, that something is wrong or bad? That’s my story. Any comments? Or not. Thanks… ps. Thanks Chieftenbears for the show. Being a Photographer and Not mechanically inclined. That was really good. And EZ, Swampy, & Eriko for Forum Notes… | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Honestly, I have a GREAT torque wrench, and it did me no good with the Blast's chain. Best thing I've done (and do) is get the bike warmed up - loosen jam nut (fairly loose, actually) - turn bolt in until the whirring starts, then back it out about 18 flats. Honestly, I can't get it to "change" sounds going looser...it sounds like a "box of rocks" from one flat looser than "whirring" all the way until the bolt is about to drop out of the primary case. So I do the "turn in until whirring" starts and then back out 18 flats. It's worked very well for me. I should mention that I have a brand new tensioner shoe and hardware in there (since about 2,500 miles ago) - and a new clutch, etc. Same "box of rocks" sound right from "not whirring", so I've never been able to use the "loosen until you get the box of rocks and then tighten just until that sound goes away" method. | ||
| Ezblast |
If too loose you'll hear a rattling/box of rocks sound, once you hear it, you tighten back up till just when the sound disappears for the most part - slight noise ok - lock it - your done. EZ | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Yeah, EZ....never been able to do that...ever. I can take the bolt all the way out (yes, I've had that mess happen) without a change to the sound. I have the rattling/box of rocks'ish sound from all the way tight...just one flat out from the whirring....to where the bolt is ready to fall out. I just want Marksblast to understand that it may be the case that he doesn't get a change of sound on the loose end. If so, going in till you get the whirring, then out 18 flats or so, will probably get him close. | ||
| Marksblast |
I will have to read both comments in detail later. As I have company for the Easter weekend. And eat much chocolate ; -). I hear the sounds and I have audio recorded my blast start ups every week, since I have owned the beautiful beast. Nine months. I worried about the smoke, I saw. I'll play till I get it right. Just don't want to damage anything ; -). You guys are the best... Happy Easter! | ||
| Ezblast |
Vince - if that is the case - then it is simple - torque to stats then go 21 to 23 flats out, lock up and enjoy. Just means your chain's natural tension is just right. So set it loose how I told above and forget about it - lol EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Happy Easter folks! EZ | ||
| Patches |
Happy Easter EZ and everyone else. | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Happy Easter to all....it was a blessed day. | ||
| Marksblast |
Update to my Primary adjustment. I tweaked it a bit and had it running between sounds. Rocks and Whine. And read everybody's instructions on all forums. Still worked out to be about 3/8ths between bolts. Torque to 24 in/lbs. And 14 flats out. Thats 2 full turns and a flat. Went riding. Idle seems a little slow to me. Then it stalled. What now. Started and down hill a bit home. Test in the garage and it stalled. Quit for the night. After much thought. Turned out, after all my putting around. I ran out of Gas ; -) Dummy. So I put it on 'reserve' and she ran.... Off to the gas station. No worries. Still seems a bit of a slow idle. But it's going. I'm not going to play with that for a while. Till I go for a bigger ride. Does that Jam Nut really need to be torqued at 20 ft/lbs? My Idle Mix is at 2 1/2 turns. Maybe I need to make it a touch more? Turn my idle screw in a touch? Last dumb question. Should one run the reserve gas out. Once in a while? Thanks all. Your the best. All ways. | ||
| Vicenzajay |
Couple of thoughts: I don't have a deep well socket for the jam nut - so I use a 7/8" wrench and just tighten it down snug (not too tight). Slow idle - usually occurs from slightly too rich condition OR just needs idle adjusted. It's the screw on the throttle quadrant (easier to just show you vice describe it). Clockwise to raise idle (adjust when warm). Correct idle should be 1300'ish rpm. You've probably already posted this somewhere - are you running a stock airbox configuration? What is your jetting? Even stock, a 45 jet and 2.5 turns out should get you in the ballpark. If you've done EZ's mod, then a 46 jet and 2 2/3 turns out on the screw will be better. On the chain - can you go out a few more flats and still not get the rocks? If so, I'd do that (loosen a bit more than 14 flats out from your torque setting). Bravo on getting both sounds, etc. I'd just go back out to the "rocks" and then in just until that sound eases. Hope that helps. | ||
| Marksblast |
That helps. I also do not have a deep will socket 7/8, 20mm. So I wondered. I have a idle mix and idle speed screw newly put on the carb. (What is the screw on the throttle quadrant?) On my profile I have all Mod's listed. All Thumpe's intake. Jardine. Jetting. Super boot. etc. I am thinking I need to go out a few more flats. As EZ was saying 21 or so. That may help. Cause I'm still not convinced I am out of gas. But before I trek to the station I want the 94 no ethonol. I'll tweak it out and make sure she stays running in the garage. I don't want to be pushing her a bunch of kms home. On your point about 1300 rpm's. I really want to find out what my rpm is now. Is there a way. Without having to get a tach. Right at this moment. I just bought a bunch from dan ; -). The way I know what the idle sounds like is. I have pretty perfect hearing. And I record the Blast every two days or so. About a minute each time. Then run it through iTunes and Garage Band ; -) It works. I get an idea of the levels and audible timing. All help is welcome. I'm having fun learning how to make it better. And tune things. Soon it will be full on riding weather. | ||
| Marksblast |
Just thinking again. All ways curious. When I recently put in the Idle speed screw (one from Dan). I counted the turns 'out' with the old/stock one. Then put the new big one in. With the same turns. Am I pretty right with that? More or less. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, they should be the same idle speed screw (I assume you meant an idle mixture screw with the knurled thumb wheel attached). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Get a timing light with a tach on it or there are other tuning devices with a tach and there's probably a tach available that just hooks to the spark plug wire for tuning purposes. All would be under the $30 price tag, but I know of no other way to easily know the rpms. Not so easy: find another single cylinder bike with a tach or set at the correct rpms. You can actually tune the two together much like tuning a guitar (if you ever tuned a guitar you'll know what I mean). It is also entirely possible to audibly get the rpm readout. I wouldn't know where to begin to figure that one out!! | ||
| Marksblast |
Yes, eriko. It is this. I read about side by side tuning. And I love to play. 40 years a huge Rush fan ; -) I get a good reading with Garage Band App. I'm thinking there must be a 'tach' app. out there. Everything else it being invented ; -). thanks  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Okay, I've never seen the idle speed adjustment screw with the thumbscrew. I just drilled a small hole in my tank cover on the raceBlast for my long screwdriver (this was 10 years ago)! Since I hadn't seen that, I assumed you were talking about the idle MIXTURE screw. The idle SPEED setting screw may be different and may not match up turn for turn. Sorry  | ||
| Marksblast |
I did not change anything from yesterday. But got gas. Second tank full with the bike. Good milage, really. And i thought it sounded ok. But when I went to my Audio recording. It is much 'growlier' than previous days. And faster idle. And I am sure i hear rocks sound. It is set just looser than the Spacer that was in. I'll try tomorrow tightening it. I know eriko said somewhere, go a little tighter than the spacer. That would make it torque spec and about 12 flats out. Also I noticed the clutch clicks more through 2nd to 5th. Anyhow. recording it helped today. The rpm app I loaded is a 'side by side' listening. It sounds to me that it is running in the 900-1000 range. That is only my guess. I'll work on finding out, for sure. ps eriko that 'speed' screw fits under the tank cover perfectly. I can just get my fingers in to move it. If I had to. Many thanks to all. Huge help... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
As general rule, the chain will be adjusted tighter than what the spacer adjusted it as. There could be an exception to that, but I'm doubtful it happens. Following the repair manual method (except more flats out) followed up with the "by ear" method is as close as it gets to perfect. If you're deviating a lot after the initial manual adjustment, you're likely getting it wrong. It does take practice. For some, a lot, for others, a little. FWIW: HD products can sound different on any given day. Keep that in mind when hearing things. In time you'll be in tune to what actually sounds like a problem. | ||
| Marksblast |
I'm not going far off the manual and what you all say at all. I'm too afraid ; -). I don't want anything bad to happen. It's a 09 with only 1900kms. 1200 or so miles. And came off a HD lot. Not a safety bike. It just needs to be riden. I am all good with practice and soaking in all info. I can about it. And having fun doing it. All these sounds are totally new to me  I have not had a bike in 14 years. Much appreciated.... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
At 1900km, it's not even broken in yet! Noises are definitely going to change. I would slow down on the mods and ride it more. I don't know how many miles you've ridden it, but the chain will need another adjustment after a 1000 more miles or so, but after that it won't need much adjustment, if at all, for many miles. It is going to be tight from sitting. | ||
| Marksblast |
I hear you. I have ridden it 300 kms. Since getting it. It was a fun winter of learning and mods. It is a lovely bike to ride. I'll just get this adjustment right. Then figure out how to get the Left peg support off to change the Transmission oil fresh. And ride. Got to save for gas money ; -) | ||
| Marksblast |
Or do I have to worry about changing the Transmission Oil. It is not like it has been used. It is just being in there for 4 years. Would it still be ok? I did change the oil. That was easy. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Don't worry about the tranny oil yet. Do it at the first recommended service interval. You don't have to pull the Y-frame to change it. But if you enjoy that kind of frustration, then go ahead!! | ||
| Marksblast |
Ok, I will ride with that oil. Thank you. | ||
| Ezblast |
News From Mac Motorcycles Hello Ed, Many thanks for your email, sorry it's taken so long for me to respond, Ellis has been a pain in the neck to get hold of and this is the first chance I've had to sit down with him! In answer to your questions; 1. We have just had the first frame samples from the jigs and, with a little fettling we should be producing complete frames in the next couple of months. The rest of the supply chain is in place to complete the inventory required to produce complete motorbikes, partially assembled and kits for those who want to build their own. 2. The pre-production prototype weighs 143kgs (dry). 3. We have changed from 'Ohlins' to 'Nitron' for the rear shock absorber (Nitron's products are, in our view, better quality, lower price and better performing than Ohlins). Our choice of manufacturer for front forks is still undecided whilst we can continue to test 3 shortlisted brands. Hope this gives you a bit more to go on, please feel free to ask us anything you like and we will do our best to answer you. Best wishes, Chantall Herbert - 'Putting the Glam' in Glamorous Assistant@Mac MC www.mac-motorcycles.com EZ |
