| Author | Message | ||
     Bandito90 |
I'm also running a V&H pipe and open airbox.I've got 48/175 jets in now. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I still think the 48 is too rich. | ||
| Bandito90 |
Well I'm just experimenting.I did put a 180 main in and it idles fine when started.Then coughs and dies when throttled.also I can pretty much wipe the carbon off the plug.That's one of the reasons I went richer. | ||
| Bandito90 |
My tach came today and I did the timing as in the manual.The bike seems to be better now.Still need to work on the carb,Though. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
black and sooty = too rich | ||
| Ezblast |
Just added a Photobucket link to the top showing static timing set. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Eriks performance ignition mod - Is now posted at top - Great idea! Thank you! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Top needs editing, but I'm way too tired.... SE module part # is 32969-98 and 32971-98 for the 7500 rpm limit modules. (They also sell 6800rpm modules, but why bother?) One is for the 883, the other for the 1200. You'll get better performance with either, but which advance curve is better I dont know. They run about $120 new, but watch e-bay for deals since they are discontinued. Just about any Sportster 'nose cone' ignition will bolt in without much hassle. So there are some other SE modules that will probably work, including some selectable modules, but they arent fully adjustable like the Blast/XL SE module is (and they cost more). To run these twin modules you'll need a different coil as the Blast uses a .5 ohm coil, the other modules use a 3ohm coil (check to be sure). The .5ohm will work, but you may damage the module, eventually. You'll also need to run a modified twin timing cup otherwise your advance curve will run up at 1/2 rpms and you'll have a 15000 rpm limit (thats bad). You'll also lose the TPS, but you can hook up a VOES or run nothing (the ignition defaults to WOT running without a TPS or VOES). You'll also lose the auto enrichener (electric choke). I havent verified this, but you may be able to hard wire the auto enrichener to a switched (on with ignition) 12v power supply or a manual switch. Still waiting on verification whether the auto enrichener gets power all the time or only for the first 5-10 minutes of running. Or run a very easy to find twin CV carb. Its not nearly as complicated as it sounds, but it gives you the choice of spending $300 on an aftermarket ignition or much less on a Screaming Eagle ignition. Both will probably need the above modifications to make them work properly since only the SE Blast/XL programmable ignition 'bolts right on' (and is very discontinued  ). (and I'm pretty sure I've already posted this info elsewhere on Badweb) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Both part numbers still show up on HD parts lists with the addition of the updated 32969-98a. $119 or $130! (or less....) Twin Tech sells a single terminal (or "single fire") 3ohm coil as do others. Corrected post, I was tired... | ||
| Ezblast |
Merci! EZ | ||
| Zendurance |
not sure who remembers my issues from a bit ago, but thought i'd give an update on my situation anyways. basically i had no charging. replaced the battery and the voltage regulator, no luck. started to replace stator, HUGE problem. as it turns out, 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the stator in place sheered in half! the heads just straight up broke off and went pinging around everywhere. and if you look at the pieces, the bolts were actually hollow. not sure if that was shoddy manufacturing or what. anyways, i had to take it in to get bolt pieces removed and some stuff re-threaded. $350 in labor later i finally have my blast back! anybody else ever hear of this happening?? i can't believe my luck would be that bad. and the tech kept saying i was lucky the pieces didn't do more damage than they did. thanks for all the advice from everybody leading up to this! i really appreciate it. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats a first! (For a Blast) EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
A help question from another Blast forum - lol - could use advise on this please - Hey guys, I'm back! Anyways, I'm putting a Crane Hi-4 single fire ignition into my Rat Blastard, along with the corresponding 3ohm coil. My question comes as to how to wire it in? My understanding of the wiring at the stock plug is: White/Black = Ignition (+12v) Violet/White = TPS Violet/Brown = Choke Pink = Tach Green/Gray = Bank angle and side stand sensors #6 = Ground the Hi-4 is as follows Red = Iginition (+12v)/Coil Black = Coil (front plug) White = Coil (rear plug) Brown= Tach (output) Green = VOES (input) Now, seeing as the Hi-4 cannot read the TPS signal, I will run at WOT curve without a VOES. I don't have a tach. The Hi-4 doesn't control choke. So I'm left with Red/Black/White on the Hi-4 and Ign/Sensors/Ground on the stock plug. As far as I can tell, I just attach the ignition (+12v) to the Hi-4 and the coil and I should be good...but what about those sensors? Help? Good question! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
And Eric wrote - good sainted man that he is - I would tape the white wire (rear plug) off. The fact that he has pink listed as tach is confusing. Its really going to the coil (but would be used as a tach senser on a stock Blast). He might have to manually bypass those sensors, but I wouldnt know without reading the wiring schematic. But I think it'll be fine with just taping them off. They should be made ineffective without the module connected to them. He's going to need a way to power/control the choke otherwise it wont come off. I've often thought that the single fire ignition is the easy way to go. I keep having this nagging suspicion that there was a problem with doing that but I cant remember what it was. If the module needs two cylinders firing to operate correctly, he may need to run a twin single fire coil (or 2 coils) and ground the other plug wire or run a twin cup and have the coil fire twice. Most of the "nose cone ignition" Sportsters have the same wiring colours, so they should match up with the instructions that came with the Hi4. I'll be saving all this wise advice up top in a bit. Thank you EricO EZ | ||
| Turbochad |
hey new here where to buy ign module for my beloved 02 blast | ||
| Johneblast |
The local HD dealer should still be able to get them. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Local HD/Buell dealer. I dont think just a Harley dealer can get Buell parts unless they were a Buell dealer (at least thats the way it was before they shut down Buell). Check the Badweb sponsors list if you want to order one. It may take some calls to find one in stock or one dealer can check inventories for you (if they are helpful). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sponsors: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/17143.html | ||
| Turbochad |
cool what should it cost? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
32687-00YA ignition module Retail Price:$177.65 | ||
| Turbochad |
ordered takes a week to get hope this fixes it | ||
| Heyzeus |
So I adjusted my timing. I tried the static method but the led would not lite up. the led works when the bike runs. The timing adjusted when the rpms went up. I set the timing were it sounded good. The ignition module was only moved a little. She seems to have quite a bit more go. The bike seems smoother and more powerful. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - probably a bit too retarded! - lol EZ | ||
| Chipmyers |
This thing is making me crazy...... Anyway, new speed sensor is here, so time to swap bikes on the table. Finished the oil change on my Suzuki, and was putting the blast up to swap sensors, but it would not fire. Last weekend I had to pull the plug wire about 1 inch from the coil the get the plug to fire, then put it back on and every thing seemed OK. A PAINFUL operation at best, got an Autozone wire and everything OK until last nite, same thing. I have some work to do this morning then will check the plug and coil this afternoon. Anybody experienced this nonsense before? A little direction would be helpful. Thanks guys | ||
| Chipmyers |
Ok, so this thing is making me crazy... Speed sensor is on the truck for delivery today, so I finished the oil and filter on my Suzuki and was attempting to put the blast up on the lift table, BTW Harbor Freight has them on sale here for $299 and it is a life saver, anyway tried to start the blast and no spark. Changed the plug wire and everything was OK last weekend, but same thing today. If I hold the wire 1 inch from the coil spark and fire up, but getting the wire back on the coil kinda sucks. I am going to check the coil and plug after work today, Any other ideas?? | ||
| Ezblast |
Bad coil? Happens if tried to jump from car battery - damages stuff. EZ | ||
| Chipmyers |
Considering the "Colorful Past" of the bike, all the screwed up stuff I am finding is not really surprising. A coil is on the way. I have never seen a coil completely shorted to ground before, but I guess this is the first. | ||
| Ezblast |
Make sure your stator is ok and your regulator - they are simple tests in the manual for that - usually a fried coil can mean other electrical damage as well - wouldn't hurt to just check. Probably from jumping with a car on using the car's battery such damage usually occurs, much less likely with car off, though if the battery is big enough it could still happen. A matter of amps. EZ | ||
| Chipmyers |
UPS man came with a new coil today. Speed sensor is in and now the little bike starts and the speedo works.. YEA!!!! Now the BO part, the petcock is now leaking. I believe the Blast is jealous of the Suzuki and just wants to stay on the table. I really need to put a clutch in mine. Jeez............................. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - no biggie - disassemble - and reassemble with gasket sealer and blue locktight. EZ |
