| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
No. The safety switch is for you. The compression is for Dylan. Please re read. Just check for spark at both places. You should also never replace anything until you first found your problem, regardless if it was already "on the list". Keep us posted as we can only go by what you've written and since we can't actually check your bike out ourselves, that's all we can go by. What I've given is a place to start, but might not be the problem. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS it's not a California bike is it? Canada doesn't have pollution controls on bikes yet? | ||
| Marksblast |
oh Ok, oops. ) IF there is no spark at the LED and it does not flash. Then what? I will start the checking. I had the Ignition Module, BAS?, and fuel tank vacuum on my list. ANY and all information helps me. Many thanks... And no it is not a California bike. The Serial Number is a 5MZ designed for outside the US. And letter L in it for Canada. Good call though, I will keep posting. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That is a good start. Let us know if there is no flash at the LED, then we'll go from there. I'm guessing there is. Then check for spark at the plug (or at a spare plug-you don't actually have to pull the spark plug-just use an extra known good plug). I'm betting it's a safety switch. | ||
| Marksblast |
Update, After a few days away from home. I tried starting the bike, and it started, as it does. First try. No problem. It idled longer than the usual 30 seconds. And sounded fantastic, smooth, consistent till about 45 or 50 seconds then it stopped. Tried again and got the same tick tick and nothing. I tried turning the middle Diode Fuse around to disengage the safety. I think thats right. But it did not slot in when turned around. The left side would not push down? So I stopped. I passed by the HD dealer here to see if they had a CO145.T switch. But none in Canada. $ 13 online. If that were the issue. That is all I can do for today this beautiful bike... | ||
| Ezblast |
It won't slot - that is what dis-engages the safety - lol - twist kick stand wires together, and dis-able bas - all howto's in trouble shooting headlines. Could also be a stuck float. EZ | ||
| Marksblast |
Oh ok :-). Will try those. When I re jetted. There was gas in the carb and the float 'floated' as it were... Clean, as could be in the carb and the stock jet #42, still looked new. Replaced for #45. 'Trouble shooting headlines' is that in the knowledge part. Again, thanks. I've read some of your stuff ez much appreciated.... | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/150578.html?1407542788 EZ | ||
| No_rice |
here you go guys, a whole fleet of blasterdness sitting in my garage for sale. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 749404.html?1411573275 | ||
| No_rice |
on that note, i have one i cant seem to get running. im getting consistent spark, seem to be getting fuel also. as well as i cleaned the jets as well as checked passage ways. crank and crank and crank. will MAYBE fire if i block off the carb intake. if i can get it running it will shoot flames out of the carb. that being said, i had this thing running and riding a few days ago. rode it around the block a few times and seemed ok. went back a couple days later to actually put a few road miles on it and now no go. ive checked and rechecked. | ||
| Nateblaster |
Hey guys , Been trying to get my profile setup for awhile now. For some reason (which i am sure is explained somewhere) it wouldn't send me an activation key to my hotmail account. i had to use another email address to get my activation weird.  Any how, just wanted to say i got my 04 blast back in june and its one of the funnest bikes i have ever owned. I have been lurking around here trying to soak up all this great info before i start customizing this winter. Planing on doing all the basic intake and exhaust stuff and a major redesign on the tank seat and rear section of the bike. I am leaning towards a "futuristic" cafe styled design right now , but things may change. I will post some cad drawings of my ideas in the photos thread so you guys can let me know what you think. | ||
| Ezblast |
No Rice - das boot. Nate - welcome! EZ | ||
| Marksblast |
Update. I have eliminated two possible causes, my blast will not run for more that 20 seconds. Clutch Safety switch and kickstand safety. The bike will start first try and sounds great. Every couple of days. When it stops. I try to turn it over again, but will not. Other things I have tried are kickstand up and down. Gas cap on and off... The Voltage Regulator did have to be replaced for some reason by Harley Davidson at 1000 kms. I did not own it then. It now has only 1700 kms. Next ideas, is the BAS but I'm looking for it. Manual has it by the ignition. Is this right? Does it just unplug. I have read, it is under the seat. I had Ignition module on the list. But the bike does start. What do I do to check that? And fuel tank vacuum, but I don't see that in the manual. Hope that is straight forward. Not a kid, but mechanically learning. That is part of the fun, sort of. Rather be riding ; -). Oh and the battery is fully charged and have gas... Thanks for all the tips. | ||
| Ezblast |
The bas is by the seat latch. Check your grounds as well, if all you get is clicks on the second try. Also I would change out primary jet to a new 45, and check float level - all you need is a child's protractor to do this. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Useful - http://cycle-ergo.com/ EZ | ||
| Marksblast |
While looking around for the BAS, Which I found, DU! I curiously unplugged and Plugged back in, this 'Grey Unit'. See attached Pic. The bike started second try. And ran for longer than before, 20 seconds. It ran about seemingly a minute. Thought that was good. But it stopped. Tried starting again with the same. IT wants to turn over but can't seem to. It Does not 'Click, click'. It is a good sounding. I want to start sound ; ). So now I tapped and unplugged the BAS. Same thing, IT wants to start, but can't. Plugged the BAS back in. And it started, but only for about 10 -15 seconds. OH and the New sound, was a trickling of water sort of sound at the end of the BAS trial. I have all of this on my phone recorder.. My Jetting is at 45/175. And the rest in my profile. thanks. EZ - do you mean just drop the bottom of the Carb and measure the angle with the protractor? I have seen diagrams to this effect. forgive my dumbness. new at this mechanics thing. but having fun learning ; ). thanks again.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Take it easy on the float-my guess is it's not your problem if it ran fine, then didn't. As far as the BAS, check the voltage. The BAS must be level as it is mounted. It's got a roller that goes side to side in the switch that kills the ignition. Check the voltage at the switch. One wires should be ground, the other 2 will be hot if the switch is level and working properly. If you flip the switch over, you'll see voltage killed to one wire. The ignition MUST be turned off to reset the BAS switch. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Correction: On the BAS Gearheaderiko Posted on Monday, May 26, 2014 - 12:13 pm: PS You must check the Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) safety switch too. It's a common culprit of intermittent problems. When working properly, the 3 wires will show 1 hot (white w/black stripe) and 2 ground. If one wire does not show ground the switch has been tripped and will not (or should not!) reset until the ignition is turned off. If after the ignition is turned back on the 2 wires should show ground. If not, it's bad. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Or see this link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/150578.html?1411576890 | ||
| Marksblast |
OK, so your saying. Take the cover off of the BAS to check the voltage> And flip the switch over. Because all I did was unplug it. (click and pulled it down). I left it mounted... What should the voltage be. ( i can look that up ). thanks. I do agree the float and carb can't be any of these issues. They are perfectly clean and looked exactly like all the pix. | ||
| Marksblast |
Thanks for that Correction on the BAS I did read that from you with the TON of other posts. Just trying to Get it Right... Much Appreciated ........ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No. Leave the wires plugged in and check if it has voltage (99.99% of problems only require that you know if voltage is actually present, not how much is present) and check if the other 2 wires are grounded . If un switched, one line is hot, the other two are ground. If the BAS is tripped, one of the wires won't show hot or grounded. To check for ground, just connect the test light to +. If you unbolt it, you can flip it over and the bike should die. If you unplugged it, it shouldn't start at all and it certainly shouldn't stay running! See the link. I first misstated that 2 wires are hot, but the 2 wires are actually ground. Too bypass the switch-just connect the 2 ground wires together. The hot wire only operates the BAS, so you can leave the other two wires connected to the BAS or not. A scotch connector is a real easy way to join the two wires. | ||
| Ezblast |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RGB2pCq4e4 EZ | ||
| Tim7423 |
Drilled my air mixture screw out on my carb and messed it up. I drilled the threads in the carburetor casting out. I cant replace with a new screw/washer/oring/spring. How screwed am i, pun intended. New carb? Should i run it open or plug up the hole? Will it damage my engine either way? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Tim | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can't run with it open or plugged. You are screwed, depending on the damage done. They might make s heli coil in that size, but I think you've done too much damage. | ||
| Tim7423 |
So i shouldnt ride the bike as is? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur | ||
| Tim7423 |
New carb ordered. Expensive lesson learned. Thanks for the input everyone. | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't feel too bad - I've been through three - lol EZ |
