| Author | Message | ||
     Buellkat |
What is the size of the main nut, so that rotor and stator removal can be done? | ||
| Bikediver |
He's about 6'1" and 230 lbs  | ||
| Ezblast |
1 1/8" deepwell and 1 3/16" deepwell - the nuts are different sizes - one is reverse thread, you'll have to brace the gears to loosen and tighten - some folks recommend the towel method, but the correct is a bar inbetween - see the link I have in the primary adjustment section - bar dimensions are given (where this topic will go to in time). GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Buellkat |
Thank you EZ you are very helpful....I did find out the first one being 1 1/8" to then find the other one being a different size too!! As for you Bikediver  .......my fault for not being specific enuff!! LOL | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
I'm looking at (trying) to remove that nut as well. My shifter shaft is bent, and i know there is other damage...but have to get the chain and clutch out of the way to see it all. Bah. You would not believe how much metallic debri there was on the drain plug... | ||
| Swampy |
I didn't have the lock bar so I tried to use the rag method but got scared that I was going to bend a shaft or something.....so I just used a rattle gun to take the nuts off. | ||
| Buellkat |
I am glad I am not alone in this repair  I used a metal piece between the sprockets, I do not understand how a rag/towel would work but hey, I fabricated a piece to hold them for the removal of the nuts. Find a hunk of steel anywhere and cut to fit, file down, and you'll have one. I.E. Hardware store aisle OR in the garage etc... | ||
| Buellkat |
Yea for me! I have removed the "unit" and inside the rotor on the magnetic part is a yellowish-green (peanut-butter) like consistency gunk...is this supposed to be here?? I need to put the new stator in but wondered if this gunk was an indicator of my stator failure ( ? ) Let me know any thoughts or opinions....ty Kat | ||
| Ezblast |
No - old oil/condensate mixture - no biggie, but clean out as can. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
Wonderful thank you EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Geez - why didn't you say you were using Redline - that stuffs NG in the tranny - they themselves don't recommend it for twins either, gunks up - go figure - you could do a search in the regular KV to find out the particulars of what I'm saying - Mobil 1 good, Penzoil synth, HD products, but neither Purple Stuff or Redline are good choices. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
CORRECTION: REDLINE IS perfectly GOOD in Harley Davidson/Buell transmissions. USE 75w90 in the Sporty/Buell transmissions. Use Heavy shockproof in the Big Twin transmissions. While the 75w90 could be probably be used the Big Twin trannys without trouble, the Heavy shockproof will eventually cause problems in the Sportster/Buell tranny. Been using both for years and contacted Redline for the initial crossover and specific recommendations. | ||
| Buellkat |
I always search this site and another before I do anything. I use the recommendations from here more than "there"... TY Erik for the clarification...I now will have to look at the bottle to see if I used Heavyweight and if I did look at my reference to see where I got my information. If I did use HW Shockproof, I have it all drained because of the stator replacement, do I need to do anything else ? Perhaps wipe it all off of the areas it is on and have I done anything wrong by using it ?? TIA Kat | ||
| Reepicheep |
Kat... any evidence of bubbled enamel paint on the wires of the stator? Any copper showing, or other evidence of damage? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you used the Shockproof, the peanut butter look might have been because of that fluid. It tends to be very gooey in nature and is easily noticeably thicker than the 75w90 redline gear oil. 3 choices 1. take the clutch apart and clean all the plates. 2. refill with the correct tranny fluid (Redline or whatever) and drain it after say 500 miles and refill with the good stuff (Redline or other). 3. refill with the correct tranny fluid (Redline or other) and forget about it, the damage is done. I'd opt for # 2 or 3. I'm guessing Reepi is asking about burning as using the wrong tranny fluid wont cause any wiring damage. | ||
| Buellkat |
Reep....nada, nilch, nuttin'...No damage is evident to stator BUT I notice the "brushes" are worn down compared to the new stator. Erik, DAMAGE!!?? It is just thicker right?! I put maybe 200 miles on her, and not at one time. Primarily had been down because of the charging problems. SUPER what a way to freak a chick out!?! I have always been very particular with anything I have done to my bike. I did read it somewhere to use the Shockproof, because I ad to special order it from the local Auto Parts place. (grumblegrumble) I will refill her with regular (NOT Shockproof Heavyweight) this time around and then after 500 miles or so. TY Buell On Kat | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Shockproof gums up the clutch friction plates.If you have both styles (shockproof & 75w-90) pour out a little of each and you'll see the difference. | ||
| Buellkat |
No disrespect Erik, you have always been helpful. I realize there is a difference, but I just was curious how damage could occur when it is a thicker fluid, but if the temperature does not reach high enough then the gum-up would occur and that makes sense too. Buell On Kat | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No offense taken and none meant, its just that there is a surprising amount of difference between the two and thats what I wanted to point out. (the Redline shockproof is what lubricates the rear chain on my FLH and you can not get it clean off the whitewall!) | ||
| Buellkat |
Hip Hip Hooray My BUELL is back together and she fires right up!! I have put the 75W90 Gear Oil (Redline) in too. Now I have a real problem. It seems as though the clutch is not disengaging? It is in neutral, I have the clutch pulled in, and I shift into 1st, the bike lunges forward and stalls. I have tried the clutch adjustment per manual with the adjustor on the cable next to the frame. I am planning on searching this site for an answer. It is weird. I did not remove any clutch plates, just removed the whole unit. Let you know what I diagnose. Thank you all for all the help, I guess it was the stator, or the gunk on the rotor inhibiting the stator, but if I get it running down the road, and it holds a charge. I am in "business"!! Buell ON Kat | ||
| Buellkat |
HaHa I knew it, the following was found on the Tranny Fluid change Posted by EZ http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/20873.html?1088389068 5. Refill the trans fluid with HD Sport Trans fluid 7/8 to 1 qt.(You may want to consider switching to Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil and Redline Shockproof Heavy weight tranny oil at this point). *wringing EZ's neck* LOL Just Having Fun, Kat | ||
| Ezblast |
I ment the other stuff - yeah thats the ticket - sorry - thats before the problem with that stuff was known by yours trully - thats why I just avoid redline - period - easier to remember - lol - when you adjusted your clutch - your primary adjustment nut was very loose right - you hadn't adjusted it - you do the clutch adjustment first then the primary adjustment - it screws you up the otherway. If not that, then perhaps you need to fiddle with the adjustment some more. Also after riding your bike 3 times - you'll want to retorque your primary cover bolts to spec. - per manual. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on August 27, 2004) | ||
| Ezblast |
Also now that you've brought it up - I fixed that for future Blastards - Thank you Kat for pointing it out. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
EZ....I did go back and loosen the primary bolt, adjustment on clutch cable, tighten bolt again, using the specs...No luck! I am completely stumped!! It also seems there is a break at where the cable enters the primary cover, the threads broke off, the cable & end still sit against the cover but fluid leaks a bit, I don't think this is the problem, and I plan on replacing it this winter if I only can get it going before I miss ALL summer of riding... Any suggestions??? TYVM KAT | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Unfortunately if the clutch plates are contaminated it can cause them to stick together causing the problem you describe (which is really an exaggeration of what happens when the Blast is cold). Have you ridden the bike for a little while to get the new tranny fluid moved around in the chaincase? Did it help? Does it shift better warmed up? At this point I regret not telling you to pull the clutch apart and clean the clutch plates. | ||
| Ezblast |
I'd say ride it a bit and see if it gets better, however, if the clutch cable was mal adjusted, such that it was scraping/resisting against the edge due to fraying - you could probably effect your shifting as well - I really don't think it was in there long enough to gum stuff up. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
I cannot RIDE! As soon as I shift into gear it stalls out. should I just let it idle to warm up? Thanks. Kat | ||
| Ezblast |
Did you adjust your primary according to the book, or the instructions here - too tight by the book. been known to stall an engine out. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
As far as I can tell, I have. I loosened both the bolt and the jam nut. I then started the bike, turned the bolt until idle started to drop slightly, then tightened the jam nut. Is it possible (well anything is possible) that something like that spring on the adjuster is backwards? Or I do not have it installed right?? | ||
| Ezblast |
Sounds ok, however, I'm stumped from here - Try asking here - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/4010.html?1092939281 - link to here for reference, or if you post there I'll do it for you - They probably know, also - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Buell_Tech/?yguid=108465168 - these guys are good with insight and help as well - sorry I couldn't help more - totally stumped - probably because it hasn't happened to me yet - knock on wood! GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
