| Author | Message | ||
     Prag_b |
I checked out that link earlier in the links section, those seem like a very good deal, and since you're recommending them I take it they arent crap.. lol.. I will probably order some up edit: I seen these foldable ones in their mirror section, description was: Zefal Cyclop Mirror $13.00 Item 705468 This multi-position mirror makes it easier to see where you've been and what's coming up behind you. Universal bar end mounting mounts on any handlebar, from ATB, trail and road bars Fully adjustable mirror has three-angle rotation and folds on impact anyone on here ever try those?? Extra-large mirror is convex for better peripheral vision Made of unbreakable chrome-plate ABS (Message edited by Prag_B on August 20, 2004) | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
Hi all, i am new to the boards as of yesterday, but i have been lurking around for a couple of weeks. This week i bought my first bike, a black 2001 Blast with 4995 miles. The bike is stock except for the Kerker exhaust. I have been riding bikes for 10+ years, but this is the first road bike i have ever owned. Normally I ride one of my fathers Goldwings for road trips, but i am going to have to say that the blast is considerably more fun to ride  (a bit less comfortable though) I have put about 150 miles on it in the few days i have owned the bike and am very impressed with the handling and the high torque. I have a question. My bike came without a manual so i have no idea what type of gas i should be running through it (the stuff you think about asking after you get the bike home ;p ). I have seen a couple people saying they use 92 octane, should i use this as well? | ||
| Ezblast |
yes GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
OK, thanks. An interesting thing happened today. I took the bike on its first long highway speed run today and ran into a problem. I had been riding for about 45 minutes at speeds of about 65mph, when i noticed that the bike was running a little rough. I decide to keep an eye on it and arrive at my destination about 15 minutes later with little problem. Finding that the people i was going to drop in on were not home, i remounted my bike and started off again. Hitting the highway again, i began to loose power after about 5 minutes, big time. I am having trouble keeping the bike over 60 mph and pull over ASAP. I shut down the bike and and gave it a go over. All i found was a little bit of oil in the bottom of the air box. I decide that i will try to limp the bike home when i can get to a back road. I had a bit of trouble starting the bike, nothing to horrible, but it didnt start right up like it normally does either. It immediatly settled into a nice idle and i pulled out onto the highway. The bike was still running a tad on the rough side, but when i opened the throttle i had no trouble hitting 80 mph, the power problem was gone. I took back road to get back home and inspected the bike again, finding nothing. I took the bike back out again after a few hours of cool down time and it ran perfectly. So, any suggestions? PS, I was not sure if i should start a new topic in the Engine section, so i just placed this here. | ||
| Ezblast |
Whats your plug look like? Did it sound like your bike was winding out?, but wouldn't go over 60? How long was the ride? Oil level vs bike getting too hot? Hitting rev limiter and failing to shift, are you Cali - smog canister, or fuel venting system glitch? - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
The plug is a little worn, but other wise fine, certainly not bad enough to cause something like that. I was in 5th gear at the time, and it didnt seem to be winding out, but i did have the throttle pinned to try and stay above 60. I checked the oil level before and after the trip, a little oil was consumed, not a lot though. I have a hard time believing the bike was over heated, but it is possible. Weather was low 80's, flat roads, 65 mph for the most part. I do not know if the bike is origionaly from cali. | ||
| Ezblast |
If its from cali - you would have a charcoal canister hanging from the rear left underside of your seat. That happened to me once - but I had caused it by changing the boot on the side of the road and accidentially twisting the throttle cables - fixed when I got home. My only other thoughts are dirt being passed through the carb, or a venting issue that may have solved itself as well. Any one else? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jlnance |
 I have 600 miles on the bike now. She was getting dirty, so I decided to wash her. When I started I was just going to rinse the dirt off. Well that looked so good I decided to polish the plastic. Then she really looked hot, and I had to make a trip to K-mart for some Armor-All. Finally I topped it all off with the wife option. Doesn't she look good! | ||
| Jlnance |
ezblast - Tell me about the "sounded like it was winding out but wouldn't go over 60" thing. I think that has happened to me a couple of times but I was never sure it wasn't all in my head. The best I could come up with was that perhaps the choke was stuck on, but thats just a guess. | ||
| Ezblast |
A partially clogged main or twisted throttle wire - both where culprits at different times - if it was a jet clog - sounds like it worked its way through and out, with the twisted throttle wires - I had to physically take the tank off and untwist the wires. Wife option eh? (looking around to make sure own wife isn't looking) - Sounds expensive! Theres always the customizer taking it to the edge;0) - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
hmmm... its not a cali bike. I guess when it stops raining up here i will go out and see if i can replicate the problem. | ||
| Newblaster |
If it sounded like it was running rough, and it wasn't winding out, just started feeling sluggish and maybe starting to die, it really sounds like the fuel venting problem. I'm pretty familiar with that one. Especially pinning the throttle to stay over 60. Only change was that I was doing that while popping the gas cap off to manually vent the tank. Fun, fun, fun. lol... Even on the non-Cali bikes, they still have a tank vent line, right? Just vents to the atmosphere? Maybe the line has a kink or a dip in it, trapping the fuel and causing the same problem as a full smog can. Also, it would be fine just a few minutes later, as the fuel would probably evaporate off pretty fast on a fully-warmed bike. You may want to trace that line, looking for kinks or dips. If you're bored or something. lol... As far as it being hard to start after you pulled over, that's normal. If the bike hasn't cooled down completely (like if you're getting gas, etc.), the auto-choke gets "confused" and it's hard to start up. Helps to crack the throttle a tiny (TINY!) bit when you press the starter. Hope that helps... | ||
| Kaveman |
 So My '02 Blast is on eBay (Item# 2487442018). Ends tomorrow. Hope to sell it to a good home. I test rode an XB9SL Yesterday and am drooling to get it... So I need a buyer for the Blast(Only have room for 1 bike). Have a look, place a bid... Off "Sales" Soapbox. Thanks Kaveman | ||
| Vjb77 |
Hey everybody...I thought I'd give you guys 1st crack before I e-bay...I've got a Buell windshield in very good condition with mounting instructions along with 2 sets of mirrors (the stock and a "superbike" type), the stock handlebars and flyscreen as well...I'll let 'em go cheap...just my way of giving back to the Bad Weather Bikers...those with genuine interest can e-mail me...I may be willing to trade the smaller parts for t-shirts from your dealership or where you live... | ||
| Jlnance |
A question about oil - The manual goes to some length to stress that the oil should be checked when the bike is hot. I have checked it both hot and cold and it does make a difference. When hot the oil level is higher. I would have expected the opposite. Does anyone know where this extra oil is pooling when the bike is cold? | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
its not that its pooling (although i suspect it does pool to some extent in the crankcase), oil expands when hot. The theory is that you can only tell how much oil there really is when the oil is at operating temp. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Allright, I still haven't figured out WTF is wrong with my Blast. It will idle, but wont rev beyond idle. It just wants to die. i replaced the TPS sensor, but can't get it to adjust as far down as the manual says it needs to be. But I did try something this weekend and sprayed some starting fluid in the carb. No normally, this should increase the RPMs. But the Blast just died. Can anyone think of anything to try/replace? | ||
| Ezblast |
Intake coupling - replace correctly and make tight, The vacuum line plug on the upper left side of the carb - may be faulty as well - replace, Primary adjusted to Manual specs - readjust to specs listed here in Thumper KV, partially clogged primary, loose plug to coil wire, loose plug - got me - thats all I can think of besides the switches - tilt sensor, kickstand, and clutch engagement - all also known to shut off a Blast from idle when malfunctioning. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mikedog |
Hey guys, just signed up and I'm already asking a question. But, here goes: Does anyone know where I could get a repair manual for my 2000 Blast. I was reading through several posts, and someone mentioned downloading one, but I don't know where I'd find it. I want to replace the gasket that is causing my bike to spit oil on my jeans.  Anyway, thanks in advance for any info. | ||
| Newblaster |
You can find the manual in the Thumper Knowledge Vault (link at top of page here), then scroll down to the bottom of the topics. It's in "Blast Manual", link is posted in the first post. Welcome to the board, btw. You've found the best resource on the net (possibly the best anywhere) for Blast knowledge. Enjoy! | ||
| Mikedog |
You the man. Stupid question: is this 2002 manual applicable to my 2000 bike? Thanks for the welcome. I was reading through this site for a while, and it seems you are right about your description of it. Pretty amazing. Hopefully I'll be able to eventually offer up some information to the group rather than just take!  | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - except your stock jetting on the main is 165. Only dif. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vjb77 |
Mikedog, I have a 2000 Manual...let me know if I can be of help...welcome to the club, man! | ||
| Mikedog |
Thanks, Vjb77. Actually, ever change the rockerbox gasket? I believe mine is causing the oil leak. | ||
| Josh_ |
Any have advice on changing a drive belt? | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Mike...just follow the torque sequence, use a torque wrench, and then tighten 85 to 95 degrees more...oh, and use a new gasket when you do this  | ||
| Swampy |
Josh: The drive belt is a piece of cake, just remove the upper belt guard screws, put new belt on front sprocket and roll it on the rear sprocket. You may want to put the belt over the rear sprocket first. Mikedog: Rocker box gasket, after you get the tank off, support the engine and take the upper front engine mount and support off. Then let the engine down to get the cover and box off. | ||
| Rcontroler |
Ordered gaskets from dealer to fix leaking rocker box on my '02 Blast. I received a gasket 'kit' part #17036-91 GASKET KIT, ROCKER COVER,XL'S. It has enough gaskets to do a twin. My question is: Does this 'twin' kit contain the correct stuff to repair my single or did the parts person send the wrong parts by mistake? I don't want to tear my bike down only to find out the parts don't work. Closest dealer is 80 miles away so I can't just run down the street to exchange a wrong part. 12,500 miles on clock and this is first time for this to leak. | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Hmm..the gasket kit i ordered today (for my Y2K Blast) is 17055-00YA, thats the correct number for the top end rebuild kit for the Blast $36.75. Hope you didn't have to pay more. You *might* be able to get away with it, the gaskets shouldn't be all that diffrent than an XL, and you'll be able to rebuild your top end twice I'd call the dude and make him verify the part number. (Message edited by rockbiter1 on September 02, 2004) | ||
| Rcontroler |
The 'XL' kit cost me $42.30. |
