| Author | Message | ||
     Tahoeblaster |
Hey Erik, long time no chat. I didn't choose it really, was just doing a web search trying to come up with the right kit. My bike is a 2000 though. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The information I have says a 2000 Blast and a 2008 XB use the same piston set and the caliper part number are almost identical. So I'd have to assume the Blast uses the XB kit. I'd specify that in the "comments" section of any order you place. The seller should know (but I'm not taking any bets-you know how it is). Well, we almost met once!  But in the same week we had almost identical skull fractures (that was you that tried to jump the fence right?) 20 posts in 8 years? You'd better pace yourself! Good to hear from you and glad you're still Blasting. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah Eric - how many miles you have on it now? EZ | ||
| Tahoeblaster |
LOL no, I was the guy at the tail of the group who found our intrepid fence-jumper. I thought you were on that trip with us. And EZ, Baby has 22,000 miles now. Need to do my front fork seals probably this week. I *still* think you should head up this way and ride some of the twisty roads here in the Sierra Eric | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No, I was the one in ICU after getting "left turned" on my way back from AAA with the maps, a couple days before the ride. I was the SoCal organizer and the reason we had a lot less people than anticipated (because of my absence) | ||
| Tahoeblaster |
ahhhh ok, good to see you survived everything  | ||
| Ohboyrico |
Hi, My brake fluid level is near the low bar for both front and rear brakes. Do I just twist / screw off the top and fill it with any DOT 4 brake fluid? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Twist off the rear, undo the screws for the front. Try not to add too much. If the brake fluid is low, it usually means so are your pads. Yes, DOT 4. In fact, I wouldnt worry about the rears at all. You dont want to be using the rear brake in any kind of hard braking on the Blast. It locks up easy and down you'll go. | ||
| Spade115 |
Is there any brake pads I can pick up at napa/advanced/autozone or anything of the sort then ordering from a site? Or is there a reference on brake pads I could use to steal off a small sedan somewhere lol | ||
| Ezblast |
Nope - American Sport Bike has pads, Galfers would have to be ordered - lol EZ | ||
| Mpenalver |
Unusual brake issue: My front brake has been sticky for a while. I've neglected attending to it because I was lazy and I'm comfortable sliding the rear end. On Sat I went to deal with it and rand into a very odd problem; the pin that holds the pads to the caliper won't come out. I've had the wheel off several times in the last year to change bearings, tires, and pads and haven't had any trouble until now. Any advice? I'm starting enlarge the hole with my Allen wrench. Is it reasonable to suspect that the caliper has deformed from squeezing the brakes too hard and that consequently the pin is binding against the pad eyelets? Any consideration would be appreciated | ||
| Mpenalver |
Unusual brake issue: My front brake has been sticky for a while. I've neglected attending to it because I was lazy and I'm comfortable sliding the rear end. On Sat I went to deal with it and rand into a very odd problem; the pin that holds the pads to the caliper won't come out. I've had the wheel off several times in the last year to change bearings, tires, and pads and haven't had any trouble until now. Any advice? I'm starting enlarge the hole with my Allen wrench. Is it reasonable to suspect that the caliper has deformed from squeezing the brakes too hard and that consequently the pin is binding against the pad eyelets? Any consideration would be appreciated | ||
| Swampy |
Sometimes brake dust will build up on the brake parts like the slider pins or on the guide holes themselves and cause the pads to stick. Check your slider pins on the pads before putting it all together. Also check you pads for clearance in the caliper. Good luck. | ||
| Random_2002 |
Does anyone have good pictures of how the pad spring goes back in on the front caliper of the Blast? I screwed up and didn't get a good look at it before I started. I had pulled one pad out and was looking for something to compress the pistons with when the spring popped out. Any help would be much appreciated! | ||
| Swampy |
The points on the ends go in towards the pads. | ||
| Sleez |
ok, i need wheel bearings on my Blast, as far as i can tell, i need 2 ea 6204-2RS for the REAR, and 2 ea 62203-2RS for the FRONT. is that correct? (Message edited by sleez on May 20, 2013) | ||
| Ezblast |
yes - if I recall - you can check my group site for confirmation. EZ | ||
| Sleez |
didn't see any bearing info there | ||
| Ezblast |
The bearing specs mentioned are correct - thought you wanted the parts number. EZ | ||
| Implicate |
Hey guys, new member! I also need rear wheel bearings for my blast. I bought some NOS Buell E6204 off of eBay, but they say front wheel on the package. Are these going to work for the rear? | ||
| Implicate |
I think I answered my own question, they are Nachi Japan 6204SE 20x47x14 which looks like they are just fine for the rear. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds right from the information here. I haven't had a chance to check the book. | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
Ok so I took my rear wheel of for the first time to replace the bearings and now my brake pads are rubbing on the rotor. I shimmed them when the wheel was off so idk what happened. Please don't tell me I have to take the brake apart lol. Pics can be posted if it will be helpful. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Why did you shim the brake pads? Have you ridden the bike yet? Some rubbing is normal, but not dragging. Is the caliper on correctly? It can be misaligned, but that's usually limited to not having the bolt in the locator hole bracket on the swing arm. (There isn't anything to special align) | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
I remember reading somewhere to shim the brake pads. I rode it and it's definitely dragging. You can hear and feel it. I'll upload some pics so you can see. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
First: take the shims out. While I could come up with reasons to shim pads, there isn't any good reason to shim rear pads on a Blast. There also isn't any reason you'd want the rear brakes on a Blast to be any better (except if you've got a side car or maybe weigh over 3 hundred lbs!). Under hard braking the only thing the rear brake on a Blast will do is take you to the ground faster. Take the shims out and I'll bet your problem goes away. | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
I meant I put a shim in between the pads while the wheel was off so they couldn't close | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you adjust the brake pedal? That can cause the brakes to stick on. Okay, very, very, gently use a screwdriver to spread the rear pads slightly apart. Do Not use the rotor as leverage. Just a screwdriver between the pads and they should separate easily. At least one pad will be very loose. Grab the caliper (with your hand), with a considerable amount of force it should move slightly side to side (or wiggle), that will let you know the brakes are not applied and not dragging. Some noise from rubbing is normal. But if everything is assembled correctly they should not drag unless you already had a problem (and you havent changed anything else). Often the bolt that locates and holds the caliper in place misses the bracket in the swingarm and that can leave it cocked and dragging. Rarely a spacer has been misplaced causing things to be misaligned. This is kinda hard to do, but Badweb experience has proved that its not entirely impossible! Rear axle nut severely overtorqued. You didnt change or disassemble anything else? Running a stock sized tire? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Oh, sorry. I forgot about the part where you replaced bearings: Did you forget the bearing spacer? Are the bearings an exact sized replacement? | ||
| Lostsurfer1771 |
Bearings are the ones mentioned above and I believe everything is back in place correctly, everything that came out definitely went back in. I'll do everything you advised after work tomorro. Thanks for the help. |
