| Author | Message | ||
     Missourian |
Hello! This is one of my first posts here! I'm the very proud owner of a 2006 Blast with 21k miles on her. The bike has a pro-series intake, and stock exhaust. I keep the bike outside here in Florida, uncovered, and I have recently had trouble with the bike sputtering and bogging down in low RPMS and when shifting into gears. with very careful clutch management, it is still operable, but it is getting worse. I have read that this type of problem can be caused by an intake boot going bad. My question is, is the Pro-series boot different than the stock boot? Also, if it is the spark plug, which plug should I be using? If neither of these issues solve the problem, i'm thinking i either need a good carb cleaning, a clutch cable adjustment, or perhaps its the fuel filter. Bike runs fine at high RPMs though Any guidance would be really appreciated! I apologize if this information is located elsewhere on the site. But if it is, I was having trouble locating it. Thanks! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome! DO NOT GIVE THE CARB A GOOD CLEANING. More trouble has been caused by doing this and it doesn't need it. It doesn't need it. Boot is the same and it probably needs a new one. Get the DENSO iridium racing plug or just their second tier iridium plug (3 tiers, racing being the top tier). Sorry I do have the numbers and I need to be at work soon. Cover your bike with at least a rain cover. If you can't afford a bike specific cover I would recommend a moving blanket and tarp from Harbor Frieght. Maybe $15 total. But cover it. Do Not Take your carb apart "to give it a good cleaning". The slow jet might (might) be clogged, but that' usually happens from long term sitting. If the slow jet hasn't been changed, it needs to be changed to a #45 ($6-$10). #42 is stock and can be checked with a mirror and flashlight after carefully (careful!) removing the float bowl. Did I mention DENSO spark plugs? I've found others to be poor performers in Harley products (with few exceptions). | ||
| Missourian |
Hey thank you for the information. I'm going to try the plug only first and see where that gets me. I'm honesty too scare to even take the carb off to look at the jets haha. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You do probably need a boot. I would order one just in case and have it on hand. They are the number one cause of problems, especially if you're not using the stock air cleaner. While some of us have gone thousands of miles without using a secondary support for the ProSeries air intake and without any problems, we're also a lot more conscious of its weekness and know what to avoid and look for. DENSO IXU27 -Its pricey though! | ||
| Missourian |
So, after looking for that spark plug on google, Ive noticed that several plugs come up meeting that description, but they have some other number before the IXU27. For example, some are "DENSO (5337) IXU27", or DENSO (5731) IXU27"....which should I be ordering>? Thanks! | ||
| Missourian |
The rubber does look a bit brittle, so I ordered a super boot and the more expansive of those two previously mentioned spark plugs. Should get them next week, and i will post a progress update! | ||
| Ezblast |
IXU01-27 - that plug rocks! Thumpe's/Dan's stuff is top notch! EZ | ||
| Missourian |
Okay! I have an update but it is rather unfortunate. After installing the Ixu01-27 Spark plug (I was careful not to cross thread), i reassembled the bike and tried to start it. It started like normal, but as soon as the automatic choke kicked off, the bike died. Then after trying to start it a few more times, it would almost turn over but would not start again. I even put the old spark plug back in and it still will not start! Any ideas as to what I could possibly have gone wrong? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you pull the boot off yet and check it? | ||
| Missourian |
I did get my super boot in the mail today, so I was planning to change that before this spark plug issue happened. I'm a little confused. Previously it would start and run, so it seems like something must have happened when I changed the plug I guess the next thing to check would be the ignition module. I'm worried I might have caused some major mechanical damage. Or messed up part of the ignition. What the heck is a coil and how would I inspect it?  (Message edited by Missourian on November 04, 2013) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Your assumptions are correct. However you need to check the weak links and the boot is always suspect. You also have a ProSeries intake which can cause premature boot failure and the 2nd biggest reason to check it is because its so darn easy to do with the PS intake AND you have a new boot! Check the spark 2 ways: first, you have an extra plug. Pull off the plug wire, put the plug in it, ground it against the engine and see if you have spark. The second way, and it will come in handy if you still have problems, is to pull the points/timing cover off and see if the LED flashes on the ignition module when cranking. No light= no spark. An erratic spark means (usually) a bad module. Granted there are other causes for your problems but we need to take them in order of probability of causing your problem given the information on your Blast and what we also know as the most common Blast issues. IE: Blast coils go bad at a fraction of the rate of Blast ignition modules going bad. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Keep us posted and you do have a repair manual? | ||
| Missourian |
I do have a repair manual! Just not a whole lot of mechanical or electrical knowledge. I plan to try to work on this a little more this Thursday. So If i want to test by plugging the spare spark plug into the spark plug wire, is it safe to just hold it in my hand? And what do you mean when you say "ground it against the engine?" Thank you for being patient and answering my questions! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It would be hysterical if you held the plug in your hand!!! Everyone should do that at least once! No, that would not be pleasant. The plug needs to be against (grounded) the engine for it to spark. If you hold it in your hand without grounding it, you become the ground and feel the spark. I would suggest finding a spot that it will rest on the engine so you won't have to hold it (it can be held by the plug wire but its very risky-you won't like it if you do it wrong). You could tape it to the engine also* Pull the points/timing cover. That's a safe way to check. The manual tells you how to pull it off or you can very carefully pry it off with a small screwdriver or awl. (Careful because if you jam it under the cover recklessly you risk stabbing the module). Everybody has to start learning somewhere. I'll either give you way too much information or not enough. Let me know if I've fallen short! *there are other ways to check spark, but I try to make it simple for the novice. | ||
| Missourian |
Thank you so much for the support so far. I have gone ahead and installed the super boot. It's very snug but not tightened all the way. My battery is dead, gonna charge it tonight and I may have time to check the ignition module light tomorrow | ||
| Missourian |
Okay so I reinstalled a fully charged battery, bike will crank, and seemed like it almost started once. I did remove the "lights" fuse under the seat to keep the headlamp from turning on while I tried to start it. At the same time, I removed the ignition module cover and---no red LED when trying to start. Is there a separate fuse for the ignition module? (Message edited by Missourian on November 05, 2013) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, at this point you've got to bypass the safety switches to make sure they aren't killing the ignition. Sorry, but I don't have the time right now to list and link them. | ||
| Missourian |
Okay good to know. I know im needing to inspect/disable the kickstand switch for sure. What are the other two? I can hopefully just search the form for the procedures myself. But From searching I saw someone had a similar problem and it was a "bank angle sensor". What is that and where is it located? I'm really hope it's just a fuse. I read my manual today on break at work should be able to check the fuse soon | ||
| Ezblast |
Flip center diode - disarms clutch safety. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Twist kickstand wires together and tape up - bypasses kickstand, flip center diode to bypass clutch safety. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Clutch Diode safety switch link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The BAS is a little more complicated. Try those first. | ||
| Missourian |
Okay so it's not the kick stand switch or the clutch. I'm thinks BAS next, I read somewhere to connect the yellow and green wires? BAS is behind the battery, right? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, it's behind the battery. I can't verify which wires to jump, that should be researched and checked with a testlight first, that will tell you if its working. I can tell you it's a solid state circuit with a little metal roller inside (about half the size of a pencil eraser). It might be worth it to unbolt the BAS and give it a shake, if it tests out bad. But: we're not saying its a safety switch, but if you don't rule out the switches you could end up spending $135 -$200 on a module you didn't need. | ||
| Missourian |
Okay I'm gonna by a voltmeter (?) or whatever its called and just follow the electricity I think. But, I also read the BAS will reset when the ignition is turned off and then back on- makes me think it might not be that, but i'm obviously not sure. I'm really thinking it's the ignition, since it stopped working like 1 min. after changing the spark plug. Has anyone ever heard of this happening on a blast or any other bike in general? Changed spark plug then it fries something electrical? I used the DENSO IXU27 spark plug (the one that is like $30 on amazon) | ||
| Ezblast |
was the package opened? did you locktite just the base of the solenoid at the ceramic and let dry solenoid up? Did you check gap to make sure it was factory set correctly - if gap isn't right, needs to be sent back for a replacement - these are only gaped once at the factory - the why of the fancy packaging. Plug # IXU01-27 - usually sells for 35 new from factory or distributors. Check your wire for a real tight fit with dielectric grease on both sides - I mean tight!! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Get a Test light, you do not need a volt meter for 99% of the stuff you'll ever need to check. Its simple and easy to use and you don't have to watch a needle or numbers on a gauge. Light on or off- simple. Low voltage=dim light. I've been doing this over 30 years and I've rarely needed a voltage meter (and I've got a lot of them!). Spark plugs won't fry an electrical that easily, you really have to mismatch parts and run them for awhile. A bad BAS won't reset and can cause poor running. That's what your checking. If it was going to reset it would have done it already. Loose plugs wires, in fact nothing to do with the wire, plug or coil will cause the module LED to stop flashing. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FWIW: a bad ignition module can be extremely difficult and frustrating to diagnose. They can mimick other problems, are often very inconsistent in symptoms and electrical checks are often inconclusive. It's the worst problem to diagnose. You're also a novice. What some of us may quickly diagnose, can take you forever to find. It could be something simple. But there is a path to follow. Do not get caught up in the "replace everything until its fixed" approach. That more often leads to more problems and complicates funding what the problem actually is. | ||
| Missourian |
Thank you both for your continued support! The package was sealed. Honestly I am not sure where locktite was suppose to be applied, so I did not use any. Also not sure what a solenoid is! Umm I aso did not double check the Gap. I know how to I just need to go get one of those measurement coins. What should it be, exactly? Also, I didnt know about putting dielectric grease on/in the spark plug wire. Also, what specifically is a test light? Just any light with a negative and positive wire? Thanks again, I'm going to try getting a test light and bypassing the BAS, and also ensuring the spark plug and wire are very tight. Is it possible to over tighten the spark plug? Thanks again, you guys are awesome! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?produ ct=148 This is the more expensive model. The cheaper model looks the same. BUY THIS STYLE! If it doesn't look like this, don't buy it. The cheapie ones are just that. Should cost $15-$22 for a decent one. Yes you can over tighten a spark plug. It won't damage the plug, but it will expensively damage the head. Anti sieze on the plug threads. Loctite on the spark plug nipple at the wire end of the plug. Dielectric grease is not critical - it won't stop your bike from starting if you don't use it. Good to use though. |
