| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
The one tank cover bolt is under the front of the seat. That bolt should be tight (remember its a sheet metal bolt through plastic-go easy) and there are two bolts that hold that bracket to the frame. All three should be tight-but it is unusual for them to be loose. The tank cover rubber trim doesn't normally pop up on its own, but..... I could probably pull a dozen pictures (at least) of The internet where the trim ring is popped up. That's because many people don't realize it is supposed to be flush with the tank cover. You won't hurt anything by working it down. If it pops back up your cover bolts might be loose of its missing the dipstick/tank cover o ring. There are other ways for it to pop up, but start there. | ||
| Holycost |
What other two scre2s hold the plastic on? The only screw I see is the one under the seat. With that tightened I can still pull the tank plastic up from the sides. The only other thing I can see to help hold it down is the oil dip stick which looks like it has a little seepage. Seems to be moist all the time even though I wipe it down. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Under the dipstick is a plastic ring that helps hold the tank cover down. It will pull right off if you remove the dipstick. Maybe it's missing? To remove the tank cover: Remove seat. Remove dipstick and ring. Disconnect tank vent hose at fuel cap. Remove bolt that was under front of seat. Now at that same seat location under the cover you will see two bolts that hold the tank cover bracket to the frame. Also at the front if the tank, near the top, in the indentations in the tank you will see two 3 inch rubber 'stoppers' that help hold the tank in place. It is possible for these to work themselves out and push the tank panel up. Usually this can only happen if these rubber stoppers have ever been removed. They can be extremely difficult to remove otherwise. (They can in some cases become hard and brittle and crumble, but that wouldn't push your tank cover up, the whole tank would come up with the cover). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The tank cover can be pulled up from the sides, but not a good idea to do that because it will eventually distort. The bodywork on the Blast is flexible and quite durable. | ||
| Holycost |
Also the ownet manual link does not work. Where can I get a copy? | ||
| Holycost |
So I took a look at the oil cap and noticed under the top you.screw off there was a plastic ring between the tank plastic and the oil cap but nothing between the tank plastic and actual tank is that right or am I missing a ring? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That is correct. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I do not know where there is an online copy of the owners manual. eBay. But I would spend your money on a Buell repair manual. It covers everything the owners manual does and is far more helpful and useful. | ||
| Milt |
Get a Parts List, too. Well worth the price. It's nice to have a part number rather than trying to order "the little do-hicky that's just to the left of the whatchamacallit". | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! | ||
| Awf_hand |
Wondering if there is any issue with using a non-oem oil filter on the Blast? The reason I ask is that I'd spoken to an Amsoil rep and he said that he wasn't sure what would/could happen to a filter designed to use 5w-30 or other lightweight oil in an automotive application when 20w-50 was pumped through it in a motorcycle application. Anybody have any issues with other brand filters? My dealership has bumped the price to 12$ per filter... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
While I can see the logic behind that, I don't think that'll fly. I'd contact the oil filter companies and if they list it for a Blast, it should be fine. Your problem comes when you cross reference to something that isn't listed as fitting a Blast. That could have serious consequences....or it's just an oversight by the filter company. I think an oil rep should know facts than worry you with conjecture! | ||
| Ezblast |
Mobil 1 EZ | ||
| Tnthumper |
Crap.. snapped my drive belt.. time to research a replacement. . It hurt when it popped me in the back ay highway speed. | ||
| Tnthumper |
Found belt online for $87.. I might get some riding in this year. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
How long was your belt on? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah? EZ | ||
| Indybuell |
AWF - I've been using either a Mobil 1 or K&N filter from Autozone for a few years now with no issues. With the belt snap hitting you in the back, did you have the guards on? | ||
| Indybuell |
Well. I've been riding a Blast for 5 years or so now. I thought it was time to get her some company.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Congratulations! | ||
| Indybuell |
Its amazing how much more nimble the Blast is. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - notice that - eh? EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Sold the CR - now the project begins turning 3 Blasts into 1 with a few extra parts added - lol EZ | ||
| Loco85 |
Are you going to part with any of the headers? I might be interested. | ||
| Ezblast |
CR - not Blast. Other headers spoke for. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Wow!! | ||
| Indybuell |
Did you lose your custom exhaust in the wreck? | ||
| Ezblast |
No - it survived - due to the clamp - lol EZ | ||
| Noochmahh |
So my blast will not just start when it is cold. Once warmed up it starts right up. I verified that the auto choke works. Verified that there is no air leaks in das boot. I have done all the recommended carb mods on the website. I believe that it is the float level that is the problem. So question: if it is due to the carb float level would I need to raise the level or lower it to fix the problem? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I doubt its the float level. Is there a reason it might have changed? You'd probably suffer other problems if it was the float level. Doesnt take much gas to start it, not near as much as it does to run the gears out. How's your slow jet? |
