Author |
Message |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, July 05, 2013 - 01:03 am: |
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Das Boot!!!! |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 05:06 pm: |
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Speedo sensor will be here tomorrow. Das boots are in the mail and should be here by Tuesday. Hopefully this takes care of my issues. The bike takes awhile to start up. Would this be a symptom of the boot having a tear in it, or should I be troubleshooting? I'm thinking I might give the spark plug a look and replace it. No sense in doing all the work for a quick glance. Thanks for the help! Once I get this thing whipped into shape I hope to take some longer rides. I took it out today, but it died at several stop signs. So, I'm thinking I should wait until I repair the boot. Don't want to kill the battery out in the boonies! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 05:22 pm: |
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Tear in the boot = lean mixture. Lean mixture = hard starting. That's your starting point. To try and further diagnose would be chasing your tail if the boot is still an issue. |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2013 - 05:50 pm: |
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OK. I tried to use some Gorilla duct tape as a temp fix. I learned that duct tape melts at high temperature. Ah well. Patience is a virtue. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 01:04 am: |
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Yeah the other temp fixes end up laming out as well. Thumpe has a new boot out on sale with his super clamping system, a lot sturdier unit is now being sold aftermarket. EZ |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 06:42 pm: |
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I received my "new" 74431-01B speedo sensor in the mail today. The packaging is labeled 74431-01B, but the part is labeled -01A. It also looks used. Ugh. Is this the old part that will just burn up on me again? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 08:10 pm: |
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If the part number doesn't match the number on the box (an 01B supersedes an 01A) and it looks used-return it. I've learned to check parts boxes that are not factory sealed. It's not unusual to find a used part in the box. |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 09:18 pm: |
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Well, I have repaired the boot and am in the process of returning the "new" part. I have also ordered one from an actual dealership so I'm fairly confident I'm getting the real deal. However, my bike continues to backfire. Right now, I'm stuck across town from my apartment because the boot popped off. It's still starting hard as well. :-\ |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 09:54 pm: |
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And I killed the battery trying to start and had to park it for the might. When I parked it, I smashed the male - female connection for the headlight. Definitely won't be walking under any ladders. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 01:56 pm: |
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"Repaired the boot" means you replaced it with a new original equipment boot? Are you using the stock airbox? Was the old boot actually bad? The carb should not pop out of a new boot if installed properly and using the stock airbox (yes, it can happen with a stock airbox, but its not easy). |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 03:02 pm: |
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The old boot was actually a piece of 1.5" rubber hose. It had a noticeable tear in it. I replaced it with a stock boot, and I'm using the stock airbox. It popped out after several back fires. |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 03:42 pm: |
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There is the possibility I'm doing it wrong. I loosened the two bolts on the back and the one on the front, pulled the old one off, slipped the new one on, and tightened everything up. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 06:36 pm: |
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Bolts? 2 on the back, 1 on the front? I don't understand?! The boot is held on with 2 hose clamps. |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 08:03 pm: |
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I loosened the air box a bit. |
Noochmahh
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 11:05 pm: |
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So the car flasher fixed my lighting woes. Thank you EZ. But ever since I replaced the flash the bike won't start. I push the button and nothing and I mean nothing happens. From one conundrum to another. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 11:18 pm: |
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It might sound silly but......is the kill switch turned off? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, July 12, 2013 - 12:32 am: |
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Battery tight? grounds tight? EZ |
Noochmahh
| Posted on Friday, July 12, 2013 - 01:26 am: |
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The engine turned over just yesterday. I actually cycled the kill switch when it wouldn't start. Checked the clutch switch was plugged in. The lights are on and bright so the battery has juice. It's like the start switch wasn't making contact. The only thing that changed since yesterday was the flash module swap. I'm charging the battery tonight I will try again tomorrow. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, July 12, 2013 - 01:43 am: |
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kill the kill switches. EZ |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 02:06 am: |
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Also check fuses - lol EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 12:30 pm: |
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Freud... sounds like the boot wasnt on all the way or tight enough. |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 02:20 pm: |
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You would be correct. It is tight now. It still backfires a few times when I first start it. Is that normal, or should I be looking for other issues? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 02:47 pm: |
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The idle may be too low and if the jetting is still stock it's too lean. Also check for a vacuum port with a bad or missing cap. Does it have a high idle when in cold start mode? Does it still backfire when warmed up? Does it hesitate (besides the backfiring)? |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 07:23 pm: |
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As far as I know, everything is stock. I'm not exactly sure where the vacuum port is on the bike, but I would like to check that. I don't think the idle is high, but it is hard to tell when I am giving it gas to work through the backfires and hesitations. Once it is warmed up, I don't notice any backfires, and I do notice hesitations when I first start riding it but only at slower speeds. Once I get going, it seems to work fine. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 08:05 pm: |
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Well, oftentimes when the boot is bad the idle gets too high and gets turned down. Often the idle needs to be raised back up after a good boot is installed. We definitely need to get you into a #45 slow jet and richen up your idle mixture. See how that goes, then add some needle shims. Are you comfortable dropping the carb float bowl to change a jet? Drilling out the small aluminium plug that covers the idle mixture screw? All are fairly simple if you are mechanically inclined and will make a huge difference in running. |
Freudflintstone
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 09:11 pm: |
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I'm not really comfortable doing that without a manual or someone with me who knows what they're doing. I've never messed with a carb before. Any of you in Indiana? |
Noochmahh
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 09:33 pm: |
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So the new EP36-Flasher only has 3 prongs and the flasher in the buell has 5. So when I pull out the stock one and put in the EP36 it won't start. What is the work around to this as the new flasher does fix all my lighting problems? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 09:34 pm: |
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Thanks for your honesty. Can you take a picture of the bottom of the carb? That could tell us if the idle mix screw was already uncapped. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 09:42 pm: |
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Okay, sounds like you plugged into the starter relay instead. The flasher plug only has 3. It should be on the right side of the battery. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, July 14, 2013 - 08:44 pm: |
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LOL - true on the flasher - Fr make sure air screw/idle mix screw 2 to 2 1/4 turns out from gentle bottom, for stock a 45 primary jet and 170 main are best for a stock or near stock Blast. Jetting is easy manuals at my group site - see profile - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on July 15, 2013) |