| Author | Message | ||
     Merriman85 |
Hi Guys, (New member to the forms today) I have been intensely reading these forms for a few weeks now and I cannot get over the immense amount of help they have been and the incredible amount of knowledge contained in them. So just to start THANKS I bought a 2000 Blast a while ago as a winter project/learning to ride bike and I absolutely love it. (Style, feel, ride) but two weeks ago I was riding along after a full afternoon of riding and the bike coughed and backfired, then proceeded to stall and would not start up again. So I started poking around and reading up on forms looking for similar problems and solutions (which is how I found you guys.) After some initial diagnostics I have come to the following conclusions but looking for some additions input. The bike runs great when cold/warm I can ride it full power no problems (no backfires, loss of power or stalling), but consistently when the bike has warmed up (after about 20min) the backfires start under any sort of throttle or load, it will still Idle ok for a bit but after some heavy backfires it dies away and sometimes will not start back up. After about a half hour - hour of cooling down the bike fires back up but the problem quickly returns when it get hot. I am waiting for a few parts, but in the meantime I figured I would look for extra advice while I diagnose Things I indent to replace in the next week: (I Live on Vancouver Island BC, Canada so Parts seem to be hard to find and take a long time to get here, any advise on parts dealers would be awesome) 1 - Manifold Boot. (Seam to hear story after story of how a tiny leak can cause worlds of hurt) 2 - Spark Plugs, (It was replaced by an shop by previous owner last year, but I ordered a new one anyway so I can do some testing) 3 - Exhaust Header gasket recently had to replace the stock exhaust (with Jardian RT-1) due to leaks and the old gasket has seen much much better days, and was in real rough shape. (Could air be pulled in here? but wouldn’t it happen all the time not just when the bike is warm?) 4-Rejetting the Carb, I want to wait to do this because I don’t think the bike would run so good cold/warm with a poor jetting of the carb (If it isn’t broke don’t fix it??), its stock right now but due to the new exhaust I WILL rejet the carb when I fix the current issue. (Unless this could be the problem) I just don’t want to mask the current problem even more. It is a 2000 blast with all stock parts from what I have seen so far, (except for the Jardian) It even has an original Ignition Module, (32687-00y) I took it to a friend’s house to take a look at it and while we were there a neighbour heard the racket and came to investigate, (Heavy motorcycle fanatic and very knowledgeable in harleys) He said right away he thought it was a timing issue, and thought the timing might be off. But because it does it intermittently (Only when warm/hot) I was at a loss, I thought if the timing was off it would run poorly from start up to turn off) which made me start digging and found that the Ignition Modules on the 2000-01 bikes were not very good (to put it lightly) and some only showed problems when they got hot. I even found a few cases where guys were having the exact same issues. (http://www.pashnit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1773 9) (http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/6 30521.html?1307923569) I have disabled the kick switch and tired turning the center diode around but because it constantly keeps happening when the bike has heated up I think it may be an Ignition coil problem. I have taken the module cover off and watched the LED's when the bike is cold and it seemed to be in perfect rhythm, but I ran out of time before I could warm the bike up enough to get it to start backfiring and dyeing. I’m planning on looking at the common problems first (boot, plug, fuel) but I have a feeling I am heading towards a new Module and contemplating ordering one now (so I can have it in the next few weeks) Any advice on test or things I could do to check if the it is the Ignition Module, I want to replicate the problem then check the spark plug for constancy as well as the LED on the Ign Module Thanks for all the help thus far and hopefully for many years to come. Rick | ||
| Piratius |
When the bike is cold the auto-enrichener (sp?) is functioning, providing a choke-like effect on the motor. As it warms up, the enrichment tapers off. Combine that with a small tear in the intake boot, and you're probably running very lean at idle conditions, which is why it's not running well. I would first pop off the air cleaner cover, and ride a little to get it fully warmed and running poorly. Then, I'd take off the air cleaner, and give it a little shot of starting fluid. If the bike runs and smooths out with the starting fluid, it's probably the carb boot that's causing the problem. I would NOT spray WD-40 or starting fluid on the boot itself - any kind of a flammable solvent near the outside of an air cooled engine is a BAD IDEA! If that *doesn't* fix the problem, we can move on to the next diagnosis tree - ignition. Replacing the plug is a good, fairly inexpensive place to start. I've heard that using an iridium plug makes these bikes run a LOT better - I haven't done it yet, so I can't tell you for sure  But, if the plug doesn't solve the problem, check to make sure that the plug wire itself is tight. I've heard (again, no firsthand knowledge) that the plug wires can come loose - and with the lower idle speed when fully warmed up, may be causing problems. When we've exhausted these possibilities, we'll consider ignition module failure and other problems, but check the simple stuff first, it's usually cheaper and easier to do! | ||
| Merriman85 |
Ya I thought it could be the Auto enrichener, but it seams to idle fast at first just like it should with the choke out then in about 3-5 min it tapers off to i really nice idle (Initial start up warm) This seams to be working properly just as a choke should, but again i may pull out of the auto-choke and bench test it just to double check. Its odd, its not like when it reaches ideal warm temp it stops working its more when the bike on the hotter side of warm (if that makes any sence), like riding it around for 15-20 min, It seams to have full power and fuel mixture at that point but when it gets hot, (especially the ignition module casing) it craps out. I wonder if i can heat up the ignition module with a hairdryer and see if that makes it malfunction?? see if i can get it to repeat the poor running directly after start up so nothing else on the bike has warmed up yet. |
