| Author | Message | ||
     Swampy |
Welcome to the Thumper Forum! Good Choice on bikes, lots of things to do with them! | ||
| Light_keeper |
Welcome Jason. I'm just up the road so to speak in Lincolnville. I bought mine 1 1/2 years ago at Schotts. Figured it was time to get back in after a long time out. intended to keep it for a year but having so much fun with it. Done some modifications to mine and increased the performance a bit. Great bike for getting around the Midcoast area. Sandy | ||
| Snotires |
JohnnyLunchbox, You were asking about an alternative replacement boot... When mine broke (after installing pro-series), I just went to the local auto parts shop and picked up a piece of universal rad hose, making sure inside diameter was the same. After a whopping $7Cdn (as opposed to the $90 boot) I've been fine for the last 4K kms. | ||
| Sarodude |
Intake Boots... You guys are trying to fix something that is not broken. I've had 1 intake boot fail in over 25,000 miles on Loli's Blast. It failed because I did some stupid goofy shite trying to "fix" the "obviously" poor mounting of the Pro Series intake within 50 miles of putting the damned bracing on! About 10,000 miles with the Pro Series with NO bracing and NO springs have resulted in NO intake boot failures. I'm not trying to be a (nickname short for Richard) but the problem with busted carb boots is likely the owner / operator / servicer. * Use a freakin' torque wrench (there is such a thing as too tight and the Buell engineers probably knew that when they speced torque) * Make sure everything lines up properly. Just because you got the boot on the manifold and the carb on the boot doesn't mean JACK. * I'd suggest torquing the hose clamps LAST. Leave them loose until everything else is where it needs to be. I'll re-iterate... 10,000+ miles (haven't checked the odo lately) with the intake mounted exactly as it comes in the box with no boot failures. Stop trying to fix what already works. -Saro | ||
| Ezblast |
Besides the intake boot only costs around 6 bucks in SF, so it has to be inexpensive elsewhere as well - someone misquoted a price to you - lol - please read my earlier post on why the hose by itself may not be a good idea. Saro - with all the other luck you've had with your Blasts, its good to know that at least one part is treating you right! (knock on wood;0)) - you think you and Lotti will be ready for the next SLO run next April? - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Jasons |
Light_keeper, Thanks for the welcome.. We went down to NYC to get the bike yesterday.. got there, picked up the bike and left by Noon... got back here in Maine around 9... My bud was riding the bike back, while I drove the chase car... we stopped about every 40-60 miles for him to have a butt break (both)... The bike ran great... we took it easy for the first 150 miles... getting the bike over 500miles on the OD... then ran 60-75 mph the rest of the way back... in the 400 miles run the bike consumed a little less than a qt of oil.. My bud says his but wasn;t too bad, but then it isn't a 400 mile bike or seat... The fact free-flo exhaust is LOUD... too Loud i'd say.. it'll be fine for now, but I think I'll be looking to reinstall the stock pipes or another from of quieting it down... bud's ears were ringing bad after the ride. Once I get my permit, I'd like to meet up with you sometime... | ||
| Light_keeper |
Jason Look forward to it. For any long distance I usually put plugs in the ears which helps. The difference in the midrange performance seems to be worth the hassel. Do you know if the carb has been rejetted? If not the benifits of that are discussed in the KV (knowledge vault) Sandy | ||
| Jasons |
The PO had the dealer install three options before he even picked it up... .the loud pipes, the K&N filter/box and the jetted carbs kit.. Tomorrow I'm off to permit school in Augusta... for those outside the State of Maine, in order to get a Cycle permit you MUST attend an approved one day course. You can then elect to take the DOT road test fdor a full license... or you can take the two day MSF course and when you pass it, automatically get your MC endorsement without a road test... | ||
| Prag_b |
Quick question... I seem to have lost the bolts that appear to hold the air box onto the engine on both sides of the engine... does anyone know size and length or if it's a standard Harley bolt that I can go to the dealer and pick up, or if I can just get from like Ace hardware.. also have the Kerker exhaust installed... some have complained about it being loud, but I love it!!!! makes this thing finally sound like the beast that lives inside of it would... also painted my Blast silver and also painted the rear fender/guard and lower guard and pulley cover silver, makes it look totally different.. went to the Harley dealership that I bought it from today... a guy with a Lightning was checkin' out my ride.. I think he was trying to figure out what kind of Buell it was, cause it looks and sounds so much more aggresive... man, I want a Lightning so bad... sat on one and my wife almost didn't get me off of it... if I wasn't so against having another monthly payment on something I'd finance and have one sitting here right now waiting for me to be ready to ride it... I'd say another 1000 miles should do... lol.. anyways... any help with the bolt thingy? | ||
| Ezblast |
2 sizes used - AA0405.21cjzb - 4 used - screw,1/4-20x5/8, hex flange head, bright zinc 1 used - AN0604.14CDBL (for the cover) - screw, no. 6-32x1/2, philips pan head, black chromate, grade 2 - per the parts book - lol - check though - don't forget red locktight and torque to spec (see manual) - Hope that helps! GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on July 31, 2004) | ||
| Prag_b |
Thanks EZ... | ||
| Light_keeper |
Jason How did your weekend go? Did Cathy (the MSF) coordinator show up? I did the whole boat several years ago and walked in to the registry on Monday and got the endorsement. By doing that the Insurance was cheeper as well. This year I took the advanced corse and got some more off the insurance as well as polished the riding skills. Sandy | ||
| Jasons |
LightKpr--- I have a messed up foot that got worse instead of better, so I ended up going to the doctors on Sat instead of to the 8hr class.... bummer, but the foot is now much better... shhhh... I've been riding this weekend anyway.. Cathy?... why yes... had dinner with her last night.... I am in line for the basic course, but the line is very long... there is an outside chance I could get in on a last minute cancellation, but that too would be rare.... so hopefully I can take the one day course this weekend somewhere else.... Cheers | ||
| Jasons |
LightKpr - What dealer do you use for work on your Blast? Who have you tried and who do you avoid? | ||
| Light_keeper |
Jason I have done all my own work so far. Most of my parts have come from Meridith HD in NH. I get over there every so often as My Daughter lives over there. They have a guy Dave King who is great and is the Buell guy. Have bought some basics at Big Moose and North Country. Although they sell Buell they are not real forthcoming with any help/advice. SeaCoast in Portsmouth has dropped the Buell all together except for two used ones on the floor. I bought mine at Schotts (Harleys R-Us) Price was right but mostly treat Buell as a red headded step child. I had the old style valve cover gasket that leaked oil so last winter I tore into it and took the whole top end off just to take a look inside. (old habit of takeing things appart and putting them back together) Pulled the Carb apart and rebuilt it with new jets. Changed the pcv system away from the carb to a filter under the seat. I did buy a shop manual for it. I guess the short answer is Me. Sandy | ||
| Glitch |
Don't know if this has been posted before or not. I enjoyed it, nice to hear real reporting, rather than the crap we're usually offered. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yuppers - thats a great article/review! There are a lot of great reviews of the Blast out there - if it wasn't for the MYBUELL, Concretecountry.com (MYBUELL mirror site), and SACBORG - there would be no negative reviews of the Blast on the web. Heck, if it wasn't for the Blasts power issues, there would be no question that the Blast was built to build the talents of your new rider to be able to later step up to todays modern sport bikes! Even with the power it has, it does its job well, and it only takes a small step to the Dark side - lol - adding a decent exhaust, some jetting, etc. to help in that area a lot. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Glitch |
I want one real bad! After reading the Thumper Forum how could I not! | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats Thumping!  GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Bomber |
singles rock -- they make the best dancing partners on the right roads! | ||
| Naustin |
HEY! I just found out last night that the foundry in my city (Albert Lea, MN... population 18,000) is where the case/engine's for the blast are cast! They also do the XB Case/engine, the XB Heads, and the heads for the VRod! Who knew! My blast's heart was born less than 5 miles from where it sleeps in my garage at night! Talk about cool! | ||
| Mikej |
Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is....  uh, never mind,  | ||
| Naustin |
already thought of that. I know someone who works there and has access too.... | ||
| Jayb |
Hi Guys, I am having a problem with my wifes Blast. (I also own an S1) Her bike will not allow you to down ship rapidly with the clutch pulled in. Example: Your crusing down the road in say 4th gear. A cager pulls out right in front of you. After you procede to give him the proper hand gesture, normally you would grab a hand full of brakes and just pull in the clutch, tapping it a few clicks into first gear. Her bike will not allow you shift down more than one gear without letting out the clutch fully between gear changes. What the heck is going on here. It grinds, and crunches if you try and do that. Anyone have any sugestions on what I can check? My wife is trying to learn to ride (she passed the Motorcycle Saftey Course this July) But is having a heck of a time with here crappy shifting Blast. The bike has only got 2000 or so miles on it. Anyone have this happen to them before? I noticed it also pings a bit when you get on it. Its all stock. I was thinking about upping the jet sizes, but not sure if i should do both or just the idle or Main. Thanks for your help! JayB | ||
| Ezblast |
Try bliping throttle for each shift down to match rpms? The ignition would probably try to shut you down if you tried down shifting hanging to high on the rpms also - since it allows only a certain rpm range - engine safety feature. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jayb |
Hi Ez, No, I know how to shift.  If my post read like I wasn't letting off the throttle , thats not what i meant. Closed throttle, and clutch in...tapping down to go to first from say 4th or 5th. It wont do it without horrible noises coming from the tranny. If you shift one gear at a time and let the clutch out, and then pull the clutch in and do the same its fine. But that is sometimes easier said than done. Something is wrong. Rev matching when down shifting doesn't help the crunching. Its almost liek if you were to try and shift without pulling the clutch in. (But the clutch is in, and properly adjusted) Maybe I'll just have to pull off the primary cover, and see what i see. Thanks JayB | ||
| Ezblast |
I don't think it will let you down shift unless your rpms/speed is matched for that gear? - I'm sure you know how - I just know that unless I blip and catch it in the middle for down shifting from second to first and at 25 or below, if not I'll get cruntch - a sound I avoid - I like clicking sounds - I'm doing it right - at each gear at only certain speed intervals can I guarantee a click without blip - bliping makes it easier, but you still can only down shift when a certain speed/rpm is matched to engage - if your troubles are beyond that then by all means investigate - I still don't know if shifting down while high running rpms will shut off the motor, but I suspect it would because that is what the hard part of the limiter does - shut down to protect engine at rpms over a certain predetermined point. I could be missing something here? For the pinging higher octane, reduce timing a few degrees 2 to 3, or try richning with air mixture screw - one of the 3 or a combo will probably do the trick. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on August 06, 2004) | ||
| Jayb |
Hi EZ, so what happens to you if you have to panic stop, and lock up the brakes?? You def would not have time to rev match, let out clutch, and shift, and then do this 3 or 4 more times to get back into 1st. I've owned a ton of bikes, and have never seen this before. My S1 will down shift fine. no fuss. Let off the throttle, pull in the clutchm and down shift all the way to 1st without haveing to let out the clutch each time between gear changes. The motor would not be running high RPMs wheb down shifting. You have the clutch pulled in..throttle off. Engine speed is now at idle or only a bit above idle speed. Not too sure why you keep refering to shifting while at high rpms. I'll have to check out the timing. Thanks for the help JayB | ||
| Naustin |
There is definatly something wrong with the blast. I can't get into first if I'm going too fast, but down shifting 5-4-3-2 should not do what you describe. Even and 90 MPH, you should be able to drop the throttle, pull the clutch and tap all the way down to second. There is, however, a speed lock-out on 1st gear that prevents you from getting down to first until you are under 20 mph or something. That mechanism must be FUBAR and affecting the other gears too. (shrug) | ||
| Jprovo |
JayB, Check the primary chain, proper adjustment helps shifting a ton. Some Blasts had problems with the shifter detente plate being loose, so if the primary adjust does not help, you will have to look into that. James |
