| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Lol - I get 44 to 40 on the Blast and the CR gets about 32mpg never over 35 - I'm good with that - its too much fun! My highly modified Blast got 50 plus mpg, and really scooted along. Something about the piston matching the head and in return getting better mileage, even with hi comp taking some back. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Napa is now cheaper - lol - 9.99 - part number 62042rmsj - but it doesn't come up in their online look up, so I emailed them a conformation question - will take an extra bearing with me to match up and make sure of everything in the morning. On the bright side my Erik Buell Racing racing ecm has showed up as well - sooo some cool early morning work, and afternoon test rides! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Part number P62042RJS stock # P6204-2RJSJ upc: 10777962269437 @9.99 is the correct numbers associated with the part. Including re-order. Still doesn't come up on line - sigh - that means you would have to call to order it, or PU at nearest store. EZ | ||
| Truthnexile |
Hey, thanks to the poster of this badass roadside reference. I realized this evening when I was standing to the right of the bike that my right rear bearing had come apart at some point on the road. 25 miles out, just glad I noticed when I was not riding home. Too late to get the part- gotta love good friends with a truck. Will be doing this job in the mornin. Got a Napa bout 5 miles away- not too far to hike. | ||
| Crackhead |
any bearing house will have the 6204rmsj bearings in stock and usually will have them in multiple brands/grades. | ||
| Truthnexile |
Hey guys, Just a couple quick questions: I just used a spare bearing to get going the other night since it was late. Should I rush to put 2 new rear bearings in or is it pretty much an "as needed" thing? I realize they are cheap as far as parts go. Is the JB weld for anything besides retaining 1 side while you flip the wheel over to do the other? Does running an oversized rear tire contribute to premature bearing failure? Curious so thought I'd consult the experts. Appreciate it. | ||
| Ezblast |
Does running an oversized rear tire contribute to premature bearing failure? LOL - NO! If you have 2 good bearings - you are good to go. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The JB Weld is only for a worn hub (bearing race spins or wobbles in the hub). The bearing is a 'press' fit in the hub. If it falls out, you have a worn hub. There isnt any good reason to use it if your wheel hub is fine. Concur! If you got two good bearings in the bike, dont worry about it. | ||
| Mtccl |
Rear bearing failed last night on the way home on my 2006 with 3,800 miles. This thread was very helpful. Used the NAPA number to get a CARQUEST B204 bearing that was marked 6204 on the bearing itself. Replaced both rears for $20.00 total (9.95 each) (Message edited by mtccl on July 03, 2010) | ||
| Toniportray |
So is there some sort of trick to ordering these bearings from Napa? I called 3 stores in the bay area and they don't have that part#, and only have a 6204 double sealed bearing for $26... Do any other places sell bearings in the bay area like Home Depot, Walmart, or Auto Zone? (Message edited by toniportray on June 22, 2011) | ||
| Buellistic |
"ALL" you have to do is take the bearing to your local BEARING SUPPLIER STORE ... They will read the bearing number off on te bearing and supply you with a same quality bearing ... You can ask for the best bearing for replacement ... Iam Noone' | ||
| Toniportray |
Thanks for the prompt reply. I don't know of any bearing supply stores since I've never replaced bearings, but I guess I can do some searching. Are there any main hardware chains that supply bearings? Maybe EZ knows some places around the bay area? AutoZone and CycleGear didn't have anything. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats what you want - double sealed - you want two - I use Napa. EZ | ||
| Slowhand96 |
I'd use the OEM bearing... if that can't be done then I'm in agreement with Buellistic... Get an experts opinion. Years ago.. when a diploma was less of an issue than it is now, I was an automation designer. I know that the suffix on the bearing P/N means more than the type and quantity of seals. It can also stand for material, load bearing, heat, and stress capabilities. Look at the pics, the OEM 6204-2rs1 bearing is on the right and the NAPA 6204-2rsj in on the left. Note the thickness differences of the inner and outer race, It may not indicate a thicker race but perhaps and extended side height for better thrust capabilities. Either way... I think Buell spec'ed the bearing they did for a reason. I had to install these on my Blast tonight because the OEM ones are weeks away from me and I needed the bike going... but I plan on replacing them ASAP!  | ||
| Ezblast |
Napa has good thick seals - less likely to leak - lol EZ | ||
| Slowhand96 |
The seals only look "thick" because there is less height to the inner race. I should have measured it but I was in a hurry to get the bike together. The material thickness was way more apparent live rather than in this photo. | ||
| Chigirl |
I need to replace the sealed wheel bearings in the rear tire. I will be ordering the bearings but according to the service manual I need a wheel bearing installer/remover. Is this necessary or is there a more common tool I can use? Can anyone recommend a parts supplier. I'm also buying parts for my XB12SCG and a friends XB12R. I've checked Chicago HD and they seem to have the best prices. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Chi HD is good, but you may wait awhile. As per the thread heading, bearings can be found locally too. Common punches are all thats needed to get the bearings out and they can be used to install the bearings too (dont forget the spacer!). The rear axle can also be used as a bearing installer, but you'll need some extra spacers (save the old bearings). The bearing installer is also not a very specialized tool and can be found elsewhere besides HD/Buell. | ||
| Chigirl |
So, will I need to order spacers too? I have the service manual and I'm looking at the diagrams on pages 2-12. I am ordering 2 bearings for the rear wheel, are there any other parts I will need to replace. If so, how many and do you know the part#. I don't see part numbers for the rear wheel set up. I was told that E0041.T is the part number for the bearings, is that correct. I know Chicago can be slow but I need parts for my other bikes so I figured I add this project to the list. On a secondary question, I thought I might do the brake pads F & B while I was at it. This bike is a backup and doesn't get ridden a lot so are the cheap brake pads on ebay good enough for infrequent around town riding? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
E6204 is the part number listed above and in the parts manual. I dont know what an E0041.T fits, but it is $2.15 more than the Blast bearing! Dont forget to put the spacer back in the wheel (between the 2 bearings). Easily forgotten and your bearings wont last long without it. You dont (shouldnt) need a new one. Brake pads are up to you. Even the cheapest ones will stop the Blast well enough. But there is a big difference in performance between the worst and the best. If the rears need replacing, you're using your rear brake far too much! The bearings can be driven in with a punch and/or hammer (or a special tool made for it). Or pressed in with a press (duh), special HD tool, home made tool or the rear axle. If you use the rear axle make sure you dont exceed the 50ftlbs of torque on the axle nut. However, if you even reach close to 50ft lbs of torque, then something is amiss and the bearing is probably going in crooked! Its an easy press in. | ||
| Heyzeus |
So I was checking the bearings in my wheels when I was pulling them to put on the new tires. My front bearings were rough so I start to order bearings. I pull the back wheel off and the left side bearing came out in my hand. It had spun in the rear wheel. The rears rattle and are bad. I thought about just shimming a new set of bearings but I don't want to trust this so I ordered a used set of powder coated Black wheels. They should look nice. I only have about 2500 miles on the bike. It sat for 4 years so this could be a good reason for the bad bearings. The Perelli MT75 rear only lasted 2500 miles. The fronts look bad as well. I do corner hard on this bike. (Message edited by HeyZeus on March 04, 2012) | ||
| Spade115 |
went to napa and they had the 22.50 bearings or some for 8.14 so I got two of those. Double grease bearings,  My uncle was going to do me the favor and install them yesterday but passed out so going to tear apart the rear tonight after work. | ||
| Spade115 |
Removed parts need to upload what I found measured axle and it read 7-76 ...o.O so I'm figuring 7/8th axle for spokes | ||
| Ezblast |
Take your time and make sure its installed right. EZ | ||
| Spade115 |
my uncle helped me put them back in and greased up the axle and put it back in, going to need brakes soon..these are the bearings i removed will be replacing them every year.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Replacing them every year is over maintenance. Unlike a timken tapered bearing where you can get away with just replacing the bearing without the race, these bearings will have to be hammered out of the hub every time. The Blast hub is relatively soft and you'll end up replacing the wheel. The wheel bearings arent prone to failure (though they do fail), but a more effective approach is better storage of the bike and a regular (not obsessive) inspection. | ||
| Spade115 |
Bike stays outside all weather and gets ridden every day :/ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Cover it. You still wont need bearings every year. | ||
| Gatiredealer |
I am experiencing a 'clicking' (like Ten speed ) coming from the rear of my '00 Blast. I had the bearings replaced a couple of weeks ago but now the sound seems to have worsened. The noise only occurs when I am sitting on the bike. When I just push it around I cannot hear it. seems like the bearings would 'click' regardless of the weight? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Is the bike running when you hear it? My guess it just might be normal. The belt can make noise. The front rotor can make noise too. |
