| Author | Message | ||
     Drucifer |
So... Yesterday, I was about 3/4 mile from home and wound my 2000 up to about 75 for the home stretch. As soon as I got there, it was like I hit the rev limiter... Limped her home and had to cook dinner for the family so I wasn't able to do much investigating. Got on this morning and started her up. Everything ran just fine... Idles perfectly and responsive to a couple blips of the throttle. As I put her in gear and headed down the road, there was a definitive lack of power under acceleration. Limped her home again and jumped in the truck to go to work the old fashioned way... Now, I'm wondering if this could be a DAS BOOT issue. It seems to bog down under acceleration only as if it was running too lean. (i.e. drawing too much air after the carb.) My other thought is that there is some sort of carbeuration issue. I am hesitant to tear into the carb as I have seen here that it can be quite the undertaking and tricky at best. What's the consensus? Drew | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Could be the boot, thats much easier to check than ripping the carb apart....You might have to pull the but off because it will often look fine on the bike. My next guess would be a safety switch or ignition module. Need more info. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Rant to follow.......  Why do people think that there must be something wrong with the carb and proceed to pull it apart? They dont know what they are looking for, but think it will just jump out at them or the magical "give it a good cleaning" will fix it! The carb is one of the most reliable parts on the bike and is also, more or less, a sealed unit. They just dont get dirty with normal use. You wouldnt pull the engine apart just because it wasnt running right and "give it a good cleaning" hoping it would fix the problem. The carb is no different. Just like the engine it has different systems, you look for the problem and check the related system. I wish I had a dollar for every time we sat around trying to figure out what part of the carb was left out when somebody took it apart just to "give it a good cleaning". The CV carb is actually very simple, but it rarely needs complete disassembly and even more rarely "needs a good cleaning". No offense to anyone, but if someone tells you to pull your carb apart and "give it a good cleaning" its because they have NO IDEA what is wrong and they hope that fixes your problem. Oh and anti-sieze the spark plug threads! Rant over. | ||
| Drucifer |
Erik, The LAST thing I want to do is tear into the carb. I have rebuilt a couple before and know how much FUN they can be. It just seemed to be the natural progression of things. I pulled the air box, tank cover, tank, and got into things tonight. The boot seemed to be in great condition. All the rubber was soft and pliable. There did not seem to be any cracks or tears. On the polished surfaces of the intake manifold and the outlet of the carb, there was a lot of 'debris' for lack of a better ter,\m. I sprayed a rag with carb cleaner and scrubbed these surfaces to remove the majority of the residue on them. I also used the same rag to clean the adjoining surface of the boot and reassembled the whole giddy-up. Regrettably, I was not able to start and test ride to see if this cured the problem as I had a few tasty libations during this process (and before). I'll go\ive it a shot tomorrow and see if this cured the problem. The boot seemed a bit easy to remove (i.e. the hose clamps were just snugged up) so it may have been drawing air this way... Just a thought. Tell me more about this ignition module you speak of.... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, if you've started to pull your hair out, then you need a new module! Seriously though, its not usually something thats easy to pinpoint because of their erratic symptoms. You've got to keep a list of whats happening. The first thing to do is pull off the 'point'/timing cover so you can watch the LED light on the module flash. It would also be a good idea to jot down the part number on the module (if one is there) as that might tell you if its already been replaced. 2000 + 2001 modules seem to have the most failures. Usually a crack in the boot, at least one that would have such serious symptoms, would be evident upon removal. Pull on the boot and you'd see the hole. It could have been a little loose. One thing to remember on diagnosis is if it hasnt been changed, then it probably doesnt need to be changed. IE: Ignition timing doesnt go off on its own, so there really isnt a point of adjusting it. Changing jets to a different size is a bad idea to cure sudden onset problems and might just mask them. Definitely check to see if the gas tank is venting. A clogged or pinched line can cause running problems. However a quick loosen of the gas cap usually cures these problems almost immediately (unless you have a CA bike). So see what other symptoms you have. It sucks to say "ride it until you break down" but sometimes thats the only way to find the problem  How many miles on the bike now and does it have the original spark plug? Often they hit 10,000 miles and just seemingly stop performing. So if you're close to 10k, I'd change the plug no matter if you fix the problem or not. | ||
| Drucifer |
UPDATE.... Determined that it was not DAS BOOT. As stated above, pliable, hole free. The debris around the carb and manifold were not the problem either. Tried scooting down the road tonight with the gas cap off, not just loose. NOTHING. It's still doing the same thing. It will limp along at an idle, but under throttle it just bogs down. Sounds like its going to die, but even staying on the throttle does not kill her (rumors of my demise have been greatly over estimated...). I'm really at a loss here and hating not having my scoot. Is my next option the ignition module? Thanks all! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Is the spark plug wire on? has the tip unscrewed from the spark plug? How many miles on the plug? What does the plug look like? (spark plugs do come apart on occasion, even expensive ones ) Is there anything that you did to your bike prior to having this problem? Did you change or work on anything? Have you pulled the timing/points cover off and looked for a part number? Checked the LED? Does it run normally if its not in gear? It revs up just fine? | ||
| Ezblast |
A 2000 - it could well be igni. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! But we just don't have enough proof (which is almost always the case with the module) Since it is a 2000, how's the oil level? Any odd engine noises? the oil pump drive gear is a stretch, but.... | ||
| Drucifer |
OK, here's some more info.... She starts and runs fine at an idle, but revving the engine in neutral does the same thing as when in gear. Pulled the cover on the module and the LED blinks as the engine fires. Keeps in sync (seemingly) with higher revs. Part number is 32687-00Y-00090 I have not pulled the plug as I dont have the time at the moment to take the tank off this instant. What is the part number for the plug say from Autozone? I will pick up a new one and try installing it tonight. The total miles on her is 8898 and I am unsure if the plug has ever been changed. With an Ign Mod going for $170, I think I'll start with the plug... To answer more questions, no. I have not changed anything mechanically since I bought it in Feb. Changed the tail light and front turn sigs to LED, but that was it. Just did an oil change a couple weeks ago, but was running fine till the other day. Buell factory filter and Amsoil 20-50. I am not hearing any odd engine noises when it runs... Thanks for the help and advice everyone. | ||
| Xenox |
Another freebie check if it's not the plug; check the petcock for flow (please be careful)and fuel hose for proper routing, no "rise" in the middle of the hose....ok hope you get er back soon! | ||
| Ezblast |
Probably plug - ngk 9 something - anyone want to fill in? EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/12758.html?1321205413 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Probably the original module. | ||
| Crackhead |
Tell the counter guy you need a plug for a HD sportster, they will have the cheep copper plugs in stock. It sounds like the ignition module but swap the carb boot first just to verify. We have heard multiple times that the boot is good, when it had a pin hole. | ||
| Drucifer |
Harley shop doesn't stock the plug. Local auto parts stores have to order it. Waited 2 weeks for the Harley shop to get the boot in and couldn't take it any more. Picked up a superboot from Dan on eBay and put that on. Lo and behold! NOT THE BOOT... What do i try next? The plug is an original (i think) Harley 10r12. It looks a bit crappy, but not the worst I've ever seen. Think that'll be my next stab. Thanks everyone. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If your plug has close to 10,000 miles on it it's toast, no matter what it looks like. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - rereading this - primary is too tight! EZ | ||
| Drucifer |
EZ, I know you are fully versed on this sort of thing but, would the primary tighten its self up ? Just seems a bit counter intuitive. I'm game for adjusting the primary. Would the primary allow it to idle just fine but seem to lean it out? | ||
| Ezblast |
What happens is when the primary is tight, idle goes down, top end goes down , shifting is a bit harder as well. Easiest way to check is adjust by factory method except go about 16 flats out. A lot of unknowing Blastards have too tight primaries, and wonder why they can't get to 95 and have very low idles. Couple that with das boot - then it becomes very noticable. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on July 28, 2012) | ||
| Drucifer |
Ez, I get the idea behind the primary being too tight, but would it have tightened spontaneously? It had been running fine and then this all happened... | ||
| Drucifer |
Well, SHE LIVES!!!!! I grabbed a new plug from Wally-Martinez today. Champion 8809-1 for those interested. Came home, took the tank off (again) and installed it after a liberal schmear of antisieze on the threads. Slapped the plug wire on and tried it. Still bad. Idled fine, but bogged down under throttle. I leaned across the chassis and looked at the carb. With mighty Craftsman ratchet in hand, I gave a couple taps on the plastic top cover of the carb and a few more on the side for good measure and started her up again. Wouldn't you know, there must have been something stuck in the carb. The previous owner always ran 91 octane in her, so I followed suit. It was his wife's bike and had 67k and change miles on it when I bought it from him. My only guess is that there was a bit of varnish in the float bowl or something that was killing her under revs. I have put just over 2k miles on since April when the weather broke up here. Apparently, a liberal application of gasoline was a bad thing. I took her out this evening and put about 30 miles on with a treatment of LucasOil carb cleaner and a fresh tank of gas to try and clean the innards up a bit if there is anything still floating around in there... On a high note, I managed to install a SuperBoot and change the plug that was probably needed anyhow... Thanks for the input everyone. | ||
| Anthony0267 |
Im haveing some issues with my das boot getting so hot its starting to melt any ideas on y this would be happening could use some help please first time blast owner 06 blast | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, that's not really possible without having other issues surfacing. I doubt it's a factory boot. Replace it. |
