| Author | Message | ||
     Jon_webb |
My friend had an 01 and has an 03 blast now. He broke a couple of drive belts on the 01 then traded it off. The drive belt on the 03 broke and he in stalled a new rear pulley and belt it broke around 1000 miles later he put on another new belt and it lasted around 1500 miles, any ideas? Thanks Jon kix428_2000@yahoo | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Two different bikes and both suffer premature belt failure, that would indicate a problem with the rider not the bike. How is the belt installed ? There are very bad ways to put the belt on. Wheelies, burnouts, abusive cleaning or cleaners, off road use-just some things that can shorten belt life. | ||
| Blackblue |
Since I'm told cams are incredibly easy to install/remove on these, and I'm told to run full-on strip cams to get the most out of my 515cc big bore setup, where would I still find cams or what part numbers should I be searching? I also have looked through the forum but haven't seen a thread on cam installation. | ||
| Jon_webb |
He does live about 5 miles down a dirt road with allot of wash board, he doesn't drive the bike hard though he does down shift to slow the bike but,nothing crazy,and no heavy cleaning going on. Installing the belt we both get the belt on the front pulley get it started on the bottom of the rear pulley and turn the rear tire. Thanks for all info Jon | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Blackblue: To answer your question you have only 2 choices: Andrews B50 or Buell Pro Series cams (which is only one choice because they are both the same). I'm very doubtful you'll find a better performance cam for a Sportster/XB that will work with a stock head Most Blast cams are just a half set of twin cams). At minimum you need to cut the valve guides. Valve float is rated at 6800 rpm with the stock springs, so any performance cam with any more lift than the B50's, will lower the max rpm. I know some people risk more than 6800rpms, but you'll have the head and springs off to cut the guides, so you might as well get the springs. 515 "big bore": Now I dont want to seem rude, but all you're really getting with the 515 "big bore" is an overbore of .063" or 3% increase in displacement (and bragging rights). Stock overbores come up to .030" and it used to be commonplace to find oversize pistons up to .060" (and more and still available in other engines and applications). The biggest performance gain with the 515 is the high compression. And if you go .030" overbore with a high comp piston you're halfway there (in displacement) at less than half the price. Its not a super trick set-up needing hot cams. For the most part hotter cams raise the rpm at which the engine achieves peak power. The B50's is about 6500-6800rpm. XB cams is 6800-7000rpms. So to achieve full potential you need to raise the redline=headwork + ignition. You could of course spend a lot of time building a torque monster with a lot of low rpm grunt, but thats pointless in a Blast, which gets its umph from higher rpms. Yes thats a long winded answer, but thats from someone who let a "reputable" performance vender talk him into some costly unnecessary headwork. $2000 can buy you a good start or a dead end in performance mods. Being well informed means money better spent (and a faster Blast). FWIW: 600cc's- THATS a big bore kit! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Which side of the rear pulley do you start the belt? Inside against the wheel or outside over the cover? | ||
| Ezblast |
inside - then back up! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I know that, you know that, but do they know that? | ||
| Ezblast |
lol - they do now! EZ  | ||
| Jon_webb |
The wrong way of course, that won't happen again. Thanks maybe that will help. Another question is it a problem to leave off all the plastic guards around the belt and pulleys and rear tire? Thanks again Jon | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The belt guard not only protects the rider from the moving parts, but protects the moving parts from debris. If you look at Harleys with belt drives you'll see they go to great lengths to keep the belt protected. Often its difficult to get a hand on the belt. If a rock gets up in the belt drive, its not going to stay there as evidence as to why the belt broke. It'll do its damage and be flung off. Wider belts have a little more tolerance to hits, even being able to run with a hole in them. The Blast belt is to thin to suffer any holes, it just breaks. Is that the reason belts keep breaking, I cant say for sure. But a dirt road without a belt guard doesnt sound like a good idea. Also, if he's riding 'dirt bike style' and just jamming down gears, that could add to the problem. Not saying he is, but some people get on a single thumper and think its a dirt bike and shift accordingly. | ||
| Jon_webb |
Well then he may put his plastics back on, I know he's going to curve his down shifting( it never was anything too rough but where I pull in the clutch and coast he rolls past and uses his eng to slow, then he brakes). We both ride blasts to save money (no insurance,better mpg's and a little fun). Neither of us drive our bikes hard, it takes too long to heal and who are we going to impress with a 35hp motorcycle. Thanks Jon | ||
| Ezblast |
I took all mine off many moons ago,and the belts break regularly around 15,000mi with normal usage without guards. No off road in along time. EZ | ||
| Blackblue |
@gearheaderiko: What I want to do is basically slightly increase top end somehow, so I can cruise a little closer to 80mph comfortably. | ||
| Joycedivision |
I recently bought a 2008 Buell Blast. It has 1300 miles on it. Rode it yesterday and noticed it was extra loud. Turns out the exhaust pipe is cracked clean through. Not a clue why it happened or whats the best way to fix it. | ||
| Nickboxer7 |
You could either take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld it up, depending on where it is cracked, or order an aftermarket exhaust (But it may sound just as loud  ) When I bought mine it looked like it had already been rewelded by somebody. The exhaust shop for my car only charges like $15-20 bucks for a simple weld like that, and they've actually done some stuff for free that only took a couple minutes. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
At 1300 miles and if its as cheap as 'Nick' says it is, get it welded up. It wont last forever, but it will last long enough for you to buy a Jardine! ...and Welcome! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Great online name | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
B&B: Get the ProSeries/Andrews B50 cams. If you keep the bike long enough, you can upgrade the heads with "ratio rockers" and get some more lift out of the cam. But realistically, you should be able to run all day at 80mph as is. The cams will help. We should look into your jetting-but I dont have any idea what a "stage 111 jet kit" would be comparable to in stock HD numbers. If you have any idea what its jetted at, maybe we can find somebody who'll have an idea of the cross reference. | ||
| Nickboxer7 |
Don't hold me to those prices gearhead! Lol Around here I just fine the mom and pop type exhaust shop and they've always given me excellent pricing. I'm sure a small weld like on the blast wont cost much. I'd definitely save up for a performance one though. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I know. Sometimes its "eh, give me $20". Other times its "shop rate is $85 an hour, 1 hour minimum". (Message edited by gearheaderiko on June 19, 2012) | ||
| Joycedivision |
Thanks Gearhead and Nick. I will see about getting it welded and think about getting something better quality in the future. | ||
| Eyezak |
The speedometer on my 2008 Blast will not roll up the mileage, speed, trip, work fine, but not the mileage, anyone know what I might do to fix it?  | ||
| Ezblast |
replace one of the sensor wires - obviously there is a short/break in that wire, since everything else works. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryAmosyJZaU http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=uEDizKLEFm0&NR=1 There's more - the bike is totally sick - I'd be proud to rock that! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on June 28, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Unique and a ton of work. However the "Harley" on the gas tank was disappointing and incongruous  Funny how he did the Blast wheel chirp pulling away! | ||
| Ezblast |
Shoot - I'd trade my CR for that! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'd trade your CR for that too! | ||
| Ezblast |
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| Jrs |
Hi all - I'm new so if I'm posting this in the wrong place, please let me know. My 2000 Buell Blast is stalling intermittently. Sometimes it stalls at an idle and sometimes it stalls right as I give it throttle. I changed the manifold coupler (aka, das boot) yesterday, and although the old part was a little rough around the edges and had some white build-up, the new boot didn't fix the problem. I also bought a new battery. My next guess is that the carburetor is dirty - but I'm not an expert so I thought I'd ask around for second opinions. Does anything else stand out as a distinct possible problem? It starts up great and while it's running it sounds great. Symptoms: stalls at idles sometimes, stalls with throttle sometimes, doesn’t matter if it’s warm or cold Already tried: new battery, new manifold coupler, checked spark plug, checked air filter Other considerations: It’s hot out (mid 90s), the bike fires up without a problem and sounds great while it’s running, the gas in the tank is fresh, air filter looks good, tweaking the throttle screw doesn’t help, has been riding well for years. Thoughts? |
