| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
lol - da old dirty carb gambit, tearing it apart will fix everything! - lol - and then, like underdog to save the day, and sometimes still tragically late, Erik will say leave the carb alone, at most rejet with fresh jets, if everything else fails! - Yes actually the carb is easy to work on, but without study and a plan on what your actually doing, parts and tools acquired and familiarized with, I wouldn't touch a thing - seriously, and if you do, take your time to think it through and do it right, while prepared for the unexpected - - a flaming mouse running close by you as you lower the float bowl - is a thought. EZ | ||
| Noochmahh |
When I got the bike it had been sitting for years with the petcock open. There was so much build up from the gas that had evaporated that gas would not even make it into the carb. I had to change the valve on the float as it was practically immovable when first peeked inside. so the floats have been completely removed and installed a couple times while I was working on degucking it. It is a reasonable thought that the float level may be low but I know that both the jet bottoms are covered with fuel. I am certain that the diaphragm is good to go. once the bike is running and warm it idles fine and revs up without hesitation. and I have verified that the auto choke is working properly. i am at a bit of a loss on this one. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
When you start the engine by covering the carb inlet, does it run like the choke is on ( normal) or do you still have problems keeping it running until it warms up? You might try unplugging the AE and see what happens. Does it run and slowly choke out? Is the idle set high enough? It would seem as if you still are lean on start up, but I don't have a clue why if everything is 'good'. Thanks to bluv21 for the float advice. I am tragically late too often on the carb cleaning advice, but with yours in such a sad state of abuse it might have actually needed it ( i'm still doubtful though). But you changed the jet that mattered and seem to know your way around it well enough to not have any problems. | ||
| Tin_man_2 |
When I 1st bought my Blast it was cold blooded even with the rejet. Lowering the idle speed made all the difference in cold starting, It seems counter intuitive but by dropping the slide (lower the idle speed) it made all the difference in starting. I believe most folks set the idle too high because a single sounds very slow at idle, could be the big clunk going into gear is idle speed related also. | ||
| Blastradius |
So i finally got to cleaning around the carb as Erik suggested earlier. When i got around to taking the venturi ring off i noticed that whomever put the ring back on crushed the bottom right bolt hole. Tearing the gasket, leaving a sizable gap between the ring, gasket and carb. I'm guessing this is the reason why there was leaking and buildup around the float bowl. Also, i found a carb to pay with for (57.85 s&h) relatively cheap. Initially prices were around the 150-300 for a decent one, and 80-90 for what looked like scrap metal. This one apparently came off an 03 with 1562 known miles. I like to think i made out. Kev | ||
| Blastradius |
Ps you think 150-160 is good for a new xb dual headlight? Thanks | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Considering they used to cost about $65 new and are aconsiderable amount of work to mount up, no that's not a good deal. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Ps they aren't dual unless you wire them up that way. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That's interesting about the idle speed and makes sense. What I meant was is the idle speed set high enough to run without throttle input (ie normal). The idle speed is acontributing factor to 1st gear crunch, but not the only one. | ||
| Noochmahh |
I only have to smother the carb until it starts. after that I remove my hand and have to throttle the gas a little to keep it going. once warm it runs great. It often dies out and it takes a few starts to get it going. The lean start makes sense just not exactly sure why. Anywho I am going to try out a few of the suggestions before i post again. Thanks for the feed back. | ||
| Tin_man_2 |
Slowing the idle does not make it lean, it makes it rich. Forcing the bike to run on the enricher curciut as opposed to the idle curcuit. | ||
| Milt |
Care to elaborate on the flaming mouse, EZ? Sounds like a lost Dali painting. | ||
| Blastradius |
Finally got my ignition module in. Double checked the wiring connections, made sure the compression stroke was closed and the timing marker was shown vertically. Everything seemed to go well until setting the LED. Doesn't want to come on until I pull it outwards. Anything I'm over-looking? Thanks Kev | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
My guess would be you're on the wrong stroke. Turn the engine over one revolution. (if I have it right, when you pull the module away from the rotor cup that's when the module finally sees a gap-the edge of the rotor) | ||
| Blastradius |
You're right, I kept on trying to get the very top end of the stroke. Finally came on I was about to give up. Heh Thanks again brother. Kev | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You did use the straight line timing mark centered in the hole, not just set the piston at TDC? | ||
| Blastradius |
I did have it in the center, but moved it closer you the beginning of the hole. Timing is set now. I thought I'd be riding the country side by now but (I'm guessing) after pulling the carb, spraying/wiping it down thoroughly with "deep creep" and putting a little Seafoam in the fuel inlet line. I might have diluted the carb with the cleaners. It ran for a few seconds but cut off, now won't start. (sigh) Should i continue trying to start it or drain the carb? Kev | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Dumped directly in the fuel inlet? You mean you dumped it directly into the carb through the fuel line inlet? Have you pulled the float bowl? To the the best of my knowledge (and not having a cv carb here) there isn't any way to drain the carb except by pulling the float bowl (or turning the carb 360 degrees). Some carbs have a drain in the float bowl, not the cv. If you've filled the carb literally with cleaner, then your only choice would be to drain it. If you haven't pulled the float bowl yet, I would just turn the carb over and the fuel will drain out the inlet and other places. Your timing will be off a few degrees, btw. | ||
| Sycho |
Just had to post, I've seen three Buell's out and about in the past three days. Thurs. had a guy stop in a parking lot asking hey that's a Buell helmet huh? Actually it's just Buell stickers on a HJC helmet, he was riding a yellow X-1. Then today gettin tires installed there was a Red Buell Blast at the Parts 411 in Pomona, anybody here we know of? Red with V&H pipe with superbike bars runnin with Dunflops on it? Then on the way home I see a nice Black Buell at a cross street light. Not sure if it was an X-1 or an S-1. Just had to share. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Dunflops? Couldn't be anyone we know! | ||
| Blastradius |
Houston...we have lift off! Ok, after draining the carb it still didnt want to run. So i went back and looked at what else I did differently. I changed the plug. Apparently the plug wire wasn't seated properly plus the gap was closed. Once I set the gap properly it started right up. Kev | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 | ||
| Blastradius |
A lot of nub trial n error today. Parents used to call em growing pains. I can vouch for the pain in my arse but thanks to the GearHead spirit guide Erik, i was able to find my way. There's still some concern, maybe I'm just being paranoid. On a cold start it has this intermittent hesitation as the idle slows. It idles a lot higher and seems torque-y while shifting. You mentioned that the timing will be a little off. Could these be the symptoms? Kev | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well the timing could cause a higher idle (if the setting was advanced) but the idle is adjustable with the idle speed screw. There could be other problems (das boot too loose or too tight or,gasp, split). I' d put a fewmiles on it first to work some of that cleaner out before you start 'fixing' again ( provided the problems arent severe or dangerous). If it doesn't start to act normal within the next hundred miles, then address those issues. Just be sure that plug wire is on or that can drive you nuts with intermittent problems. | ||
| Blastradius |
"Copy that" I did just put on a fresh boot. Ill double check that I didn't tighten to the point of cutting into the rubber. Sometimes it never seems to be tightened enough. Aside from that I'll leave well enough alone and just monitor. Thx Kev | ||
| Blastradius |
PS It's a great day for riding here in Maryland. Gonna go for a spin. Stay safe. Kev | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Tight enough is usually when it just starts to mushroom or deform the rubber boot. Just starts, just. Sadly they make much better clamps for the boot that would eliminate most of the problems that are solved by the superboot, but it also puts the cost at almost the same price  | ||
| Milt |
There was only one Blast at homecoming this year, a fuel injected job with XB swing arm, gauges, jug, etc. | ||
| Noochmahh |
Fuel injected! I love fuel injection. is there a GOOD article on fuel injecting a blast anyone knows of? | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.buelletinboard.com/forums/showthread.ph p?9228-Super-Blastard lol EZ |
